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adsach

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Everything posted by adsach

  1. adsach
    I love the sound of Borla (co-worker has one on a 328i) I have never seen a Boxster DYNO with a Borla - I would ask Borla for one before proceeding. Other name brand muffler makers have been known to lose 3-8 HP on the Boxster. If you go with headers, make sure whatever solution you install takes account of the O2 sensor placement. Porsche has distinct expectations about readings from the O2 sensors around the first Catalytic converter. If you end up going with the Borla, please report back.
  2. adsach
    Have you heard anything about Downtube bikes? Since the bike insn't for me, I'm not prepared to have a permanent bike rack mount. And not inclined to fill my rear trunk with the Porsche Roof Transport System (I have) and a bike rack attachment(I can buy) We may just go with a standard bike and tell her that if she gets snowed in at work, she can lock the bike and drive it home after the snow melts. :clapping:
  3. adsach
    I haven't tried this myself, but here is a link to Door panel removal http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/ re: reliability between a Ford and a Hyundai That sounds about right - Hyundai has been getting some high ratings lately :D For perspective, have you ever heard how much time a Ferrari or Lotus spends in the shop?
  4. adsach
    You won't hurt the motor by insulating or cooling the rear trunk - the heat is 99% from the muffler which is right under the rear trunk. Above the muffler is a formed sheet of aluminium? backed by about 1/2inch of fiberglass insulation. You could probably add another 3/4 of insulation above the muffler, but I don't know how much difference another R-3? would make. Running your existing A/C to the trunk would be difficult and probably expensive. If a folded blanket inside the trunk under your instrument case does help enough, you might try a standalone cooling system, like a 'cool shirt'. http://www.coolshirt.net/home.htm
  5. adsach
    Do you have winter where you live? The PS2 is a top choice of enthusiasts. It will not wear as long as the all season. It will not operate well at near freezing temperatures. It will stick like snot on mountain roads and race tracks. For a Boxster S the difference in tread life between these two tires is some thing like 8-10K miles for PS2(rear tires) and 12-16K for A/S(rear tires.) Front tires may last twice as long. My daily driver has summer tires and winter tires for Albany, NY. If I lived in San Francisco or Los Angeles, I would use only a summer tire. If I drove 80% on freeways and city streets I would choose All Season - but at 80% boring driving, I might also exchange my Boxster for a BMW or Audi.
  6. adsach
    As above - this might work - but why not ask Gemballa to put their money where their mouth is? They should be able to guarantee fitment of a wheel/tire/spacer/alignment combination. IMO - As long as you are paying Gemballa prices, you should demand they stand behind their solution.
  7. adsach
    PSS9 - The 'performance' solution . A favorite of Track & Autocross enthusiasts, unless restricted to a lesser setup to stay in a certain competitive class M030 - The 'stock' solution that satisfies most competitve rules H&R coilovers - The 'budget' solution - Lowers the car to give smaller wheel well gaps - upgraded handling vs stock (non 030) suspension. - - - - - This is what I hear from others. I ordered my car with US 030 and 18" wheels - The suspension and car are still more capable off handling the road than I am as a driver. - - - - - If you want a more highly tuned suspension than one of theses 'standard' solutions, I recommend you buy Mike Lansky's race car. You will probably spend less on buying his whole 3.4L GT3 boxster than you will doing test-and-tune on all the various combinations of sway bars, GT3 drop links, springs, etc. What happens to your money AFTER you buy a race car is something entirely different :) :)
  8. adsach
    With a malfunctioning oil seperator, fresh oil running through the intake and semi-combusted oil passing out the exhaust can 'gum up' the innards of your engine - this includes o2 sensors, spark plugs and catalytic converters. If your engine has more than a puff a day, you probably want to cut back on it's smoking before it leads to premature aging.
  9. adsach
    Since that the cars I disassembled in my youth were built in the 40s and 50s there really wasn't much of an alternative to pushrods. The earliest car I drove regularly may not have had finesse, but it sure had "powerstyle" http://www.adclassix.com/ads/56chryslernewyorker.htm
  10. adsach
    In the tread is not too bad. I have been over 130MPH multiple times on a tire repaired after a simple puncture (nail between the tread blocks on the second row of tread). I did that 6th gear upshift at an indicated 150MPH once on this tire, but it was only briefly(it started to rain) and I can't recall whether that was before or after the puncture repair. In the sidewall is hopeless. The tire must be replaced and all responsible tire stores will tell you no when you ask to repair it.
  11. adsach
    Does anyone have a folding/stretching bicycle that fits inside the Boxster trunk(s)? This would be a bike for my 18-year old daughter who really isn't interested in the technology or performance of the Bike.
  12. adsach
    It is pretty easy - except for the things that are hard to figure out. I came away from this job with a real respect for how Porsche put this car together. But it is a mixed respect; removing and replacing the rear bumper cover is easy- removing the muffler is confusing. The second time I remove the muffler should only take me a few minutes, but my first time took about 1.5 hours. Until I removed the upper support bolts it was very difficult to figure out where the bolts were and which direction they faced. This was AFTER looking at all the photos and reading the relevant threads. If you are in a wrenching mood, you might just pull the muffler and polish it to a shine just so you won't have to puzzle over how to remove it someday when you are going after the clutch or RMS :D Besides, nothing will put you in the mood to buy an aftermarket muffler quicker than bench pressing the stock muffler a few times. I used to tinker with American and Italian cars as a teenager - The Boxster is much more satisfying to tinker with. Enjoy!
  13. adsach
    What the guys at NAPA told you would have been good advice for my (long gone) 1973 Buick Century Regal that ran on 3.5 of 8 cylinders. The advice to change plugs and head gaskets probably isn't relevant to your Boxster. Your head gasket is probably not leaking. Your spark plugs may be a bit gunked up, but fixing the excess oil going into the combustion chamber and driving around for an hour should clean them up pretty good. You probably have 1 or 2 problems rather than several causing all these codes, so I suggest you fix the known problem and drive it for a couple of days (assuming it drives OK) before dumping the ODBII codes and looking for more problems.
  14. adsach
    I doubt his system compares to a Bose - what Jinster did was add some clarity and highs to his 2 dash speakers using existing speaker grills and mounting hardware. What Bose did was replace the behind the seat storage box with a horking big horn, modify speakers, replace stereo headunit, add an amp, etc. I never listened to the Bose while driving with the top down, so I probably didn't give it a fair shake, but my impression of the Bose in the showroom was that it created a sound profile with overwhelming, somewhat muddy Bass and no noticable mid-range strength. I think the more interesting comparison is to the Premium Sound upgrade. This came stock in my S so I have two extra speakers in the kick panels of the doors, an amp in the front trunk to drive them and a CDR-220 in the dash. I also thought I had heard tweeters from my dash speakers, had seen the tweeter port on the grills so assumed the factory had installed a 4" speaker and a tweeter behind my dash grills. Today I was curious and removed one of my dash speakers to have a look. As far as I can tell, the premium system used the same 4" speaker and added a separate tweeter alongside. I didn't see any resistors or crossover parts, the wires to the speakers are in parallel, so I guess the speakers self-select the sounds they will reproduce. I suspect those Jaycar Kevlar cone speakers are a superior dash speaker pair. I don't have a digital camera right now, so here is a snapshot I took with my Palm
  15. adsach
    Wow Shash - we posted simultaneous and your post erased mine. short recap. Special RMS tool - picture by tool pants on another link - possibly voids engine warrantee - don't do it. if you do it anyway: most of the job is easy - see clutch replacement pinned above 12mm? triple square bolt required to pull flywheel allow extra hours for removing muffler(non-intuitive bolts) remove exhaust pipes at the sleeves rearward of the catalytic converter detatching shift linkage(6-speed) is a mystery I never unravelled.
  16. adsach
    I see the braided steel lines for a stock base Boxster at STOPTECH www.stoptech.com Stainless Steel Brake Lines Line Kit for Stock Calipers Part Number Options Price Qty 85-130-4500 FRONT $59.00 85-130-4500 REAR $59.00 These are much more expensive than at Pelican OEM Rubber Brake Hose, Front Or Rear, 4 Per Car, 996/996 Turbo (1999-04), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04), Each T-355-139-01 (OEM: 996-355-139-01) $18.80 Stainless Steel Brake Hose Kit, Set Of Four Hoses, DOT Approved, 996/996 Turbo (1999-04), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04) PEL996-SSDOT1 $69.95 Stainless Steel Brake Hose Kit, Set Of Four Hoses, Non-DOT Approved, 996/996 Turbo (1999-04), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04) PEL996-SS-NDOT2 $66.75 $70 for 4 hoses doesn't sound expensive to me, but I would probably buy the $19 OEM hoses. IMO the stock brake lines are flexible and strong enough to do the job - braided steel lines are a cosmetic rather than performance upgrade. For brake fade my sequence of upgrades would be: * Bleed brakes every 6 months - with speed bleeders, a one person job * Upgrade your brake fluid * Practise more selective braking - Lime Rock is good for this:) * Install Big Brake Kit or Boxster S front brakes
  17. adsach
    Assuming you have a stock 986 spoiler: If you raise the spoiler, and can move one end of the spoiler up/down/front/back, you have probably loosened one of the 2 bolts that attach the spoiler. to remove/reattach spoiler first remove 3 plastic rivets on the side of spoiler near the top. This is done by pushing the center of the plastic rivets and then prying out. Pulling up the painted piece will reveal a boxy metal structure Your loose bolt will be a hex head bolt about 1 inch below the surface of the boxy structure accessible by a circular hole near each end. Once Loren posts the picture, this will all make sense :) Good luck
  18. adsach
    986 and 996 were designed identical from the (front) seats forward Front bumpers are interchangeable. Turbo bumper parts don't fit either model - different headlight shape means different fenders and bumper covers. I have no opinion about a Speed Yellow bumper top, except I imagine it would need regular cleaning beside the window where it folds. I pretty much avoid top up driving so don't see top color as significant.
  19. adsach
    Several people who have done this mod Post on the Boxster Racing Board http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/index.cgi?index
  20. adsach
    Amending prior post - I tried it today. Fingers really do work best.
  21. adsach
    Echoing the lawyerly disclaimer of Q-ship, I couldn't recommend anything except belted into a NHTSA approved factory seat. - - - Personally, I would buy a folding stadium chair from your local university similar to this design: http://www.niu.edu/HSC/E-commerce/Bookstor...nir/chair.shtml I would put a matching beach towel under the chair to prevent the canvas top from scuffing and place the chair on the canvas top. I would strap the chair to the windscreen free roll hoops on each side with a long flat nylon strap similar to the chair straps and threaded around the seat back. Sitting on the roll hoop would be best for the car, but uncomfortable for your niece, and probably impractical for more that 4-5 blocks. (She'd be better off perched on a bar stool with the passenger seat removed.) I'd go for sitting facing forward on the folded canvas top. THERE IS A RISK OF DAMAGE to the top, but since I have a hairline crack in my rear window, and 'watermarks' in the canvas I would take the risk. THERE IS A RISK OF DAMAGE to your niece. Considering the exposure of sitting at eye level there is also a risk of damage to her reputation unless her garments are chosen wisely. These are risks I would take, what you do is entirely up to you.
  22. adsach
    Yep these drains (plugged) are the most common cause of your problem.
  23. adsach
    Holy Fjords! You paid in US Dollars? Can you do a closeup of the rear window edge? Do you have PSM for the snow?
  24. adsach
    29" is high enough to sit crosslegged inside the engine compartment with the tranny removed and look up at the flywheel. Transmission definitely can roll out with the body in this position. Engine will be closer - it may or may not pull straight back with the bumper off. As AR38070 pointed out, the bigger question is what the lift frame blocks and what lift points it touches and how you plan to use it. Will the engine be 'boxed in' when hte car is in the air? And if you plan to pull a transmission or engine at this height, how will you lift and lower the drivetrain parts? I personally would be more inclined to buy a good transmission/engine lifting jack to go with my floor jack and jack stands.
  25. adsach
    I agree with the above recommendation of stock brakes and frozen rotors when new rotors are needed. I personally went for ATE Super Blue. I don't see the downside in spending a few dollars more for a high performance brake fluid - especially when it comes in a pretty color that makes it easy to see when all the old fluid has been exchanged. Track brakes have a downside on the street. Track brake fluid is fine for everyday use.
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