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flyingpenguin

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Everything posted by flyingpenguin

  1. If you mean the blade insert it really is just a grab and pull removal, no tools needed. At the center of the black plastic cover there is a clip that holds the middle of the wiper blade. To install the replacement wiper blade just snap the new one back into that same clip. Use consistent pressure on both the removal and the replacement and you will be fine. As with everything; it's quite easy once you know what you're doing. :P Just lift up the rear wiper arm and pull the blade insert at one end until it snaps out. For a replacement I used a Duralast 15 inch one from Autozone for 7 bucks. Snap it back in and it'll work like a charm. I hope the diagram clarifies it a little further.
  2. If you're comfortable with it, get the rear on jack stands, remove the under covers and check if the linkage is still properly connected. They tend to go loose sometimes. Here's a picture. Check where the A and B are pointing. JP
  3. As the clutch wears the pedal feel becomes progressively stiffer. What you are describing sure looks like a you'll be needing a new clutch. If you are comfortable getting your car up on jack stands, the DIY is certainly doable for a newbie. I do recommend you get a transmission jack though. Maneuvering the tranny underneath the car is tricky at best, especially putting it back. You also need a star-bit for one of the bolts. Autozone sells them. While you're in there check on the RMS and IMS for possible leaks. JP
  4. PCA is running at TWS Dec. 5-6. Looking forward to seeing you there. Joost Perquin
  5. Really simple and there is instructions in the owners manual. Little tool in the luggage compartment that you use. Once you find the tool, open the hood, look for the little plastic circle covers behind the headlamp assembly (they'll have a picture of a headlamp on them), pop them off, stick the tool in, turn it. Whole headlamp pops right out. Take the headlamp assembly out, open the back, replace the bulb. Simple as pie. I just did this yesterday and the instructions in the owner's manual are not very intuitive. Once you remove the plastic covers (to the side of the headlamp, not behind), you can peek in and you will see a light colored steel nut, and the tool from the luggage compartment slides right over it (inserting it into the hole at a 45 degree angle) and by turning it, the whole headlight assembly is pushed out. While I was in there I replaced the rubber gaskets fitted around the assembly. They had completely disintegrated. JP
  6. In the category of "I am just guessing here": Are you sure that your Motronic 5.2.2 ECU is capable of handling the e-gas throttle body? I thought that e-gas was only supported on Motronic 7.2 and newer. JP
  7. If it were my engine after a rebuild or replacement, I'd follow this guy's advice: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm JP
  8. Porschelibrarian posted an few example pages of the Cayenne workshop manual that happen to contain the section on inspecting, topping off and replacing ATF. Here's the document you can download: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...st&id=17022 This seems like a fairly complicated process requiring special filler tools. Has anyone tried this? JP
  9. I have version 8.1 Pro Build Sep 13 2009, 21:20:21 I downloaded this update that supposedly has a lot of improvements vs. previous version. On my way into work I ran it for the full time of my commute (45 minutes / 40 miles) and no hick-ups. I have the 3Gs with 32Gb though... Maybe you want to reboot your iPhone and try again. Good luck. JP
  10. "Hartelijke dank" for your comments, and you certainly have a point there regarding the reliability of both designs... Do you know how these late M96 engines differ from the early M97, that I hear had their fair share of issues in the 2005 997's? JP
  11. Very interesting comment RFM. I have a 2000 C2 with a new engine that was installed in Aug 06 (engine# M96/04AT66Y66186). Can you confirm if mine also has the updated IMS and whether Jake Raby's IMS bearing retrofit would make sense in my case? regards, Joost Perquin (NL-er in Texas ;-))
  12. +1 on previous tips. I would also get a tranny jack from Harbor Freight. This is indispensable especially when trying to line up the input shaft with the pilot bearing when mating tranny back to engine. I would also consider the IMS retrofit from Jack Raby. So much peace of mind... and it's cheap insurance. JP
  13. Don't forget that these cars have a lot of understeer dialed-in with the stock set-up, which obviously creates less grip going through a turn. Power and traction to the front wheels in a C4 is nothing without grip. In a tight autocross turn your are likely to experience more understeer in a nose heavier car like a C4 than in a C2. How many DE's and/or Autocrosses have you done sofar? JP
  14. Tech inspection would check for loose items in the car. This thing is stuck pretty solid to the windshield, so no issue there. You may run into an instructor that does not like the slightly obstructed view, but you can tuck it away pretty nicely just to the left of your steering wheel without any interference that could raise safety concerns. JP
  15. I am using this cradle: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...:EOIBSA:US:1123 JP
  16. +1 I drive the crap out of my 04 Cayenne S with some occasional towing and I guess an tranny fluid change won't hurt... JP
  17. If you have an iPhone 3G(S) or a Palm device lying around, I recommend Harry's Laptimer. It's GPS based and once you program the start/finish as a way point it records laptimes automatically. It allows export to google maps with G-force data. Pretty cool. http://web.me.com/hschlangmann/LapTimer_Homepage/Home.html JP
  18. This month's Panorama has an ad for 18inch GT3 replicas for around $250 a pop, so that would fit within your budget. JP
  19. You see! Drive the crap out of these cars on a daily basis and they'll go forever. These cars don't like to sit still, not even for a few days. Mine is a 2000 996C2 purchased with a new engine at 30K in 01/2007. It's got 76K miles on it now, out of which 5K are hard track miles. I run Mobil 1 15W50 and change very regularly (every 2 DE's). No problems so far. I am looking to do the IMS retrofit this winter though. JP
  20. MY experience is that Duram at Durametric is very helpful with special tips / explanations re. our cars and his software. Shoot him an email and I am sure he'll respond quickly and accurately. JP
  21. I do smell my burning tires on auto-x but do not smell any engine oil in excess. But 1 day on auto-x burned oil from full to one mark down. So some oil does get burned there, depending of exact definition of 'spirited'. I drive the S^%T out of mine and to be honest, the aroma created by the combination of hot tires and whatever residue lands on the engine block from time to time is kind of nice. :D JP
  22. Same here for a rebuilt one at Autozone. It's just a little noisier than the one that came out. JP
  23. I did this one myself on a 2000 C2. Part prices mentioned above seem correct. This was last year, and I remember that getting to one of the 5 or six bolts that attach the pump to the block is a real pain to get to... JP
  24. I am running 245's on the front 18x8 rims and 285's on the 18x10's (the ones that came standard). My suspension is lowered and I had to roll the arches a bit to avoid scrubbing. This set-up (with GT3 adjustable lower control arms dialed in at close to -3 degrees camber) makes the car wonderfully balanced (basically got rid of the understeer). Not sure about the off-set of the C4S (widebody) and 305's. JP
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