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EleCTriCT

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Everything posted by EleCTriCT

  1. EleCTriCT
    I have used the ebay link as a example, often the siolenoid is replaced but I've found the plunger in the unit under the valve cover sticks. more info http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/27160-how-does-variable-valve-timing-work-on-the-996-engine/
  2. EleCTriCT
    Hey everyone Up until the 987's and 997's Key/Remote programming has not been an issue. - Scenario - Order new key with new remote - have ipas codes. All from dealer. Program everything as per onscreen instruction while also having a clean power source hooked up to battery. As well as activating 4 way flashers.. Everything works great except the new remotes never sync? the pill syncs because the car will start and run... Take to dealer they say remote is defective (which they sold me three times now), and program with another that they have instock. 3rd try now, with plenty of spare brand new remotes that are apparently defective. Time for me to give up on keys it seems, unless im missing some important step?
  3. EleCTriCT
    I would refer to logray's post as mentioned above In my experience the part below has often been the culprit for this. http://www.ebay.com/...69da7c9&vxp=mtr Usually can be done in car, might need some cam alignment tools get your indy to check before he starts any repairs so he doesnt get stuc. cant remember been a while. Not to say its not the sprocket on the end, as i said im going of memory.
  4. EleCTriCT
    I wouldn't bother taking it out of the diff... seems like a lot of extra work.. Lower the car down on it wheels and/or have a friend forcefully hold the brake pedal down. If you dont have access to air tools.......Use a breaker bar (min 1/2") with the socket and maybe a pipe on the end of the bar for more leverage. this should do it. Also spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and I would anti-sieze compound the end of the shaft before installing it afterwards. Please be careful you dont want to scratch your car or smash your knuckle off the pavement and or you face off the fender. Cheers and good luck.
  5. EleCTriCT
    996 Drain plug is a 18 x 1.50 mm From the shoulder to the end of the threaded part is about 12 mm Cheers FYI Have installed many of the L/N Drain plugs for people.
  6. EleCTriCT
    Awesome!
  7. EleCTriCT
    I have found that the r/r always appears to be dead/non functioning when there is a fault in the system. I've been doing the re-programming as a fail safe because I've been having major issues with (some) vehicles re-learning. I feel the system/modual is stupid for a lack of words.. Paulv - I spent a short life time already swapping both wheels and antennas with no luck ever. you end up chasing sensor id's to no avail!!! As much sense as it makes to swap left to right front to back etc it doesn't seem to work. So far my best solution was using an external tool to verify sensor operation. 9 out of 10 has been a sensor. Good choice changing all 4... Sometimes its a hard sell because of the related costs... - BTW - I have found a tool I will be buying made by ITM auto parts.(when available by my local supplier) Sensor reader and programmer. they also sell "blank" sensors that you can program to match the vehicle you are working on. I recently had a bartech rep give me a demo but the lack of sensors for vw/audi/porsche and the cost has led me to the ITM product
  8. EleCTriCT
    Looks like they use the same fault codes across some of the modules Again used a bartech TPMS tool to externally read sensor operation. 3 out of 4 bad.... Replaced all 4 sensors, TPM re-program with piwis Another porsche back on the road with one less warning lamp illuminated :thumbup: side note: I wonder what kind of equipment the dealer uses to test the wheel sensors? our local audi dealer uses a bartech that is just branded with audi logos ;)
  9. EleCTriCT
    I Concur...
  10. EleCTriCT
    Used a Bartech sensor scanner to verify an inactive r/f sensor. Replaced Sensor. Had to re-program TPM module with piwis and selected the learning function via instrument cluster, then test drive. Problem Solved.
  11. EleCTriCT
    good news! +1
  12. EleCTriCT
    some info on pressure test and filling adapters http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40994-cooling-system-pressure-tester-adapters-available/ cheers.
  13. EleCTriCT
    I would make sure that these 2 below definitely have the proper fuse installed # 40 - instrument panel # 51 - Diagnosis, parking brake switch Make sure the fuse isn't accidently installed in a blank spot Verify that ground cable installation. Cycle the ignition switch and try starting whilst depressing the brake pedal Cheers n good luck
  14. EleCTriCT
    Hi Everyone. Looking for TPMS diagnostic info..... TPMS inactive.. Fault codes via piwis and durametric 8003 System disturbance Implausible signal 8009 Wheel electronics front right Upper limit value exceeded Is 8009 referring to the wheel sensor or the antenna? Cheers and thanks...
  15. EleCTriCT
    i have successfully used o2 spacers/extenders/minicats on multiple occasions (usually performance exhausts) ie... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vibrant-STAINLESS-O2-Extender-Spacer-H2O-Wideband-DRY-CELL-HHO-Expedited-SHIP-/200694443717
  16. EleCTriCT
    please check the fluid reservoir. I find top travel is greatly affected by low fluid. in the back under the carpet, top ups are usually only a few ounces... cheers
  17. EleCTriCT
    Hi, These cars are getting old, and the parts are getting more scarce as the days go by. 928's have a huge cult following but i shudder everytime I have to work on one.. Timing belts are highly labour intensive, but if I remember correctly you dont really need any porsche specific special tools to do it. Ive come across lots of electrical issues near the fuse panel and a variety of oil leaks in the past good luck
  18. EleCTriCT
    K.. thank you.. i just went through all the buttons which all seem to function... Would you suggest removing the radio and try to re-learn the tire monitoring?
  19. EleCTriCT
    Hi everyone, 06 997 C4 Cab TPMS wont learn. Cant get readings from the rear sensors so I cant check values battery life etc.. Im told they might have been replaced already - no one really knows :( Fault code stored... 8003 - System Disturbance Looking for info / guidance A P-Tech mentioned besides the wheel sensors the antennas go bad. Thanks... D.
  20. EleCTriCT
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40991-pinouts-and-color-codes-for-headlights/ See if this helps,, let me know if you need anything further for diagrams Cheers
  21. EleCTriCT
    You might be right and I might have my terms mixed up. As I have to admit I not that fluent with the turbo engines yet... The actuator that was backing out of the side of the cyl head is 996 105 301 71 The failed hold down bracket that requires replacement is 996 105 310 72 It would appear that you are correct and that is the solenoid for the valve lift control.... Although, I made the discovery with the durametric activation labled camshaft adjustment and I noticed major differences in the way the vehicle ran from bank1 to bank 2. Which led me to investigating that area. Either way, I am happy the problem is delt with and I pleased to be able to document it on renntech.org :thumbup: Cheers...
  22. EleCTriCT
    SOLVED!!!! Bank 1 Cam adjuster solenoid hold bracket had a hairline crack through it... Thus when the solenoid would activate, it would push itself out of the head thus not pushing the cam adjuster plunger all the way... the bore is deep enough that the solenoid actually forces out of the head but not enough to leak oil or anything like that. Made a large washer to temporarely hold down the broken side of the bracket, and test drive to verify.. Now when the cam adjuster activation is done in durametric, it stumbles the same from bank 1 to bank 2. Cleared faults and test drove, no more missfires and vehicle runs as it should......... Loren can you edit the thread title to solved? Thanks everyone.
  23. EleCTriCT
    Update According to PIWIS Fault Info........ Vehicle Speed 31 km/hr RPM 3600 According to durametric,,, Actual camshaft angles for bank 1 & 2 seem even... One thing I noticed.... When activating the camshaft adjustment,,, bank 1 blips then continues to idle normally whereas bank 2 continues to chug untill the activation is shut off.. Making me believe I might have a cam adjuster / solenoid issue with bank 1.... As always, any input is greatly appreciated.. Cheers
  24. EleCTriCT
    Hey Everyone, Just verified ciaka's repair on a recent cayenne myself. Mystery Brake Booster Faults/Warnings Brake booster fault on screen of instrument cluster. (tell tale sign on this vehicle was a "stiff" brake pedal) No faults detected with scan tool again... ??? Using both a PIWIS and Durametric. Found broken pipe by pass side airbox underneath vacuum pump - similar to above photos inn ciaka's post Replaced necessary parts - clear all faults regardless Warnings gone and normal bake operation restored. Cheers!
  25. EleCTriCT
    Ok will look into it further with a P-Tester and report back. Thanks
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