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gandrade1

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Everything posted by gandrade1

  1. gandrade1
    Thanks guys... I found several books at Amazon, but this one seemed very interesting The Used 911 Story, 8th Edition (Paperback). I am a member of NNJR PCA, but I am not so sure how to leverage that to learn about earlier 911. Best, Gus
  2. gandrade1
    I paid $200 for this.... Did I get the real one? It came in the box with instructions... Bought it online from what I believe to be a reputable store.
  3. gandrade1
    Is this the AMP you are talking about Blaupunkt THA475? The specs seem to be sufficient, while much superior to the HAES OEM amp's. I would try to mount it in the trunk (original location) to avoid the mess of having to hide the wires in the cabin, find a good location (underneath the passenger's seat, maybe?). I would follow the existing wires to see how they go from the cabin to the trunk and try to route the wires through there.... I want to do the same conversion in the near future (for the summer)....So keep us posted. Best of luck, Gus
  4. gandrade1
    Hi guys, Eventually I will go back to my country in South America and I grew to love Porsches so much that I won’t be able to go by without one :eek: …Also, I go there twice a year for vacations and I do miss a great drive. The issue is: price of Pcars in my country (dollar based) are between 2 to 3 times the US price, used or not; my country does not allow an individual to import a used car unless it is 25 years or older. Given these circumstances, I have been thinking for a while about getting an 80 to 85 911; get a new engine and parts mounted to it and export the baby home, for my visits or for the event that I do go back to live there. Since I am a novice to the Porsche world I was wondering what route to take - what year to get; what model, MY to search for; what to look for in the car (body probably, since I intend to replace the main mechanical components) and how much to expect in expenses to get the car in good shape. It will be a weekend drive as well as some track exposure. I understand this is kind of a curve ball, but what better to think about during the weekend. Just kidding (maybe?!?) :cheers: Thanks, Gus PS: I am budget conscious! :renntech:
  5. gandrade1
    Security Torx ?
  6. gandrade1
    Excellent topic. I am also interested in the feedback. So far I have purchased a torque wrench at Home Depot (Husky);a tool set from the same brand with several distinct sockets, extension and two drivers;a low profile jack and 4 jack stands from Sears;a torx bit set also from Sears; an oil cap 'socket' from Autozone and a simple screwdriver set. Best, Gus
  7. gandrade1
    Agree with White that there are a lot of these cars on the market, and many with fewer issues. On the flip side, if you really like this car you can use your RMS concern as leverage to pay 50K (maybe less) for this car and put the $7K in an account for the uncertain event you have another RMS failure after 2 years (when the CPO warranty expires). Any problem within these 2 years you are covered and I believe you can easily prove the problem unsolvable if you have another leak and try to get them to replace the engine while under warranty (have heard many of these stories)... Good luck, Gus
  8. gandrade1
    Thanks Izzy, I will follow your suggestion. Best, Gus
  9. gandrade1
    Apparently I had this problem yesterday and waited too long for the bubbles to clean - ran out of fluid in the last wheel and will have to start over... :cursing: I am not sure I understand the test you suggest above - pushing the valve in, sealing the threads. What are you suggesting we push in? Thanks, Gus
  10. gandrade1
    Hi guys, Gathered all the tools, bought the bleeder and am trying to start the bleeding on my 01 Boxster right now...and already have a question (sorry). I opened the fluid reservoir and removed the first screen (please see pic below), but even after I did I have something on the way (looks like a small fluctuating ball - is it the fluid level sensor?) Do I need to remove anything else? I dont see how I can remove fluid with that thing on the way... Thank you so much.... Gus
  11. gandrade1
    I am bleeding my brakes tomorrow and I intend to put my MY01 Boxster on 4 jack stands for the first time. Was thinking of doing a wheel at a time using only a jack, but I guess it is too risky... I noticed that the suggestion here is to put the front on stands and then the rear. I can't clearly locate the place where to position the jack in the rear of my Boxster and I would also like to avoid removing the skid plate in the rear (does my car even have one? :huh: ). I have changed the oil in the past (using ToolPants method) and put the left side on stands. I feel confortable working the jack on the sides using the so-called alternate lifting points. I was wondering if I can put one side on stands first (rear and front) and then the other side (rear and front)? Let us say I put the left on stands first - Is there a risk that the stands will shift when I jack the right side to put the stands? Thanks, Gus
  12. gandrade1
    Thanks, will do.... Gus
  13. gandrade1
    Thanks, Loren Is it a problem if I need to move the car (i.e. use the brake) between bledding one wheel and another to get more space in my garage? Will a jack work or do I need to put stands (I am not bleeding the clutch)? Best, Gus
  14. gandrade1
    Getting ready to bleed the brakes! Quick questions from a first timer: (1) Can I just jack the car up one wheel at a time or do I need to put it on stands? My garage is tight and using 4 stands at the same time is a challenge... (2) How do the bleeding valves open and how do I tighten them up with the 'bleeding tubes' connected to them? Do I need any tool? (3) How much fluid should I pump out of the reservoir before I fill it up with new fluid? I am also thinking about using the pump from a liquid soap or something. (4) What can go wrong and how do I know if the bleeding worked, before I put the car back on the road? Thanks as usual, Gustavo :renntech:
  15. gandrade1
    I am very curious on how you ended up mounting the seat belt receptacles...I am going through the same process, but my seats are Kirkeys. I also want to retain the original seatbelts. Any ideas? Thanks Gus
  16. gandrade1
    Well...You might be understimating the work that goes in a properly done HID conversion - I did mine and it didn't take only 30 min. I did have fun doing it, though, but it did take some interest and attention. Just a thought, Gus
  17. gandrade1
    Hi donlycan, Would you be so kind as to share the advice. I am thinking of doing the same in my MY01 Boxster. Thanks, Gus
  18. gandrade1
    i don't know if i'd consider a leaking RMS a deal-breaker. if you are getting a good enough deal on the car and you made money on the other Boxster, putting $1200 into it for a new RMS isn't too bad. or maybe you could get the guy to take $1200 off the price to account for the new RMS. you probably have a 50% chance of *any* Boxster you buy eventually having an RMS leak. you might as well have the seller 'pay' for it now. ;) Better yet...Ask the owner to get the job done in a dealer under the extend warranty he holds on the car! That way the seller only has to pay for the deductible and you will be sure that the RMS replacement is done correctly! Also you will see what this warranty he claims to have is all about! The car looks great by the way... Good luck, Gus
  19. gandrade1
    Anyone???? :eek: Come on guys! This must be a topic that interests not only me!?!? :eek:
  20. gandrade1
    Hi Gus, They have a different weave from each other, the Sonnendeck Canvas is more resistant to fading. The German canvas is also cut a little differently - I think it may have a slight edge over the other for inititial fit. Least that's what I hear from GAHH. Someone else probably knows more... david Sorry to read about your own top issues earlier...some people just don't have any respect. Thanks, Zodman I actually found someone to sew a new plastic window on my top (for $350)....I guess I should go for a glass window next.
  21. gandrade1
    Just out of curiosity - what is the main difference between the German Canvas and the Sonnendeck Canvas? Thanks, Gus
  22. gandrade1
    Hi guys, Thanks to your help I have recently cleaned the TB on my 01 Boxster and, yes, it runs much better! I must confess that was the first time I opened the engine compartment in the one year I have had the car and, man, does it look dirty!!!! I did a search to find a way to clean / wash a Porsche engine and I found some general tips, such as cover the eletronic and electric components. I also asked a dealer and from the height of his knowledge he said - we don't mess with that... Well, I am thinking about messing with that and was just wondering whether any of you have successfully cleaned or washed a Boxster engine and know its peculiarities. I know there is an expert here in Concours - Orient Express - whose 996 is cleaner than many of the new cars we see at dealer lots. I was wondering if anyone has any tips for the Boxster: what to use? parts to cover and how to cover them? Thank you so much, once more. Gus Wash Engine - Part 1 Wash Engine - Part 2
  23. gandrade1

    Headlights look really cool!!! I am getting ready to do the same on my 01 Triple Black Boxster!

  24. gandrade1
    Hey guys, I did the GT3 Delete console install ....It makes a lot of difference. It is a great improvement for tall drivers like me. Thank you so much for all the help I got here. Gus
  25. gandrade1
    Hahahahha...That is great man! BTW, I gave it a try today... Jacked the car up through the alternative jack point (pic below) on the left side, but as I raised the jack to get enough clearance to put the stands, the jack felt very unstable (pulling towards the car!) Is this normal? Well, I didnt think so... So I had the beers and came back in! Is my jack too short for my stands, or is the load capacity too low? Could it be the surface of my garage? This is my jack Craftsman 2-1/2 Ton Floor Jack, Low Profile and these are my stands Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands.... Well, the owner manuals state that the jack (2.5 ton load) will go as high as 14.2 inches (360.68 mm) and the stands as low as 10-5/8 inches (270mm). I am using the stands at their lowest.
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