bavarian

I just spoke to Justin at Brandywine. Apparently I need part nr. 996 424 241 00 (clip for shift cable). It seems to be related to the limited slip which is standard on my car. I'll see when I get it next week....

I finally did the mod everyone raves about, and I must say I can't believe I drove my '04 C4S for 8 months without it! I bought the in-the car unit from Brandywine for $199, and the install was quite easy, using the OEM method which does away with marking and measuring the cables. The following items were not mentioned by either the B&M or Porsche instructions: 1. The original shifter had a small white rectangular plastic clip attached to the left pivot ball. The B&M ball is slightly larger, and it could not be transferred.(This is the part which fits into the white plastic casing on the left side of the shifter--perhaps the reverse gear?) 2.The left cable is not very firmly attached, even when the black plastic cap is snapped in. In fact, I had to remover the center console after my first attempt, because the cable had slipped off and I had no reverse gear. I hope I didn't screw up somewhere--it works great, but I'm a bit concerned.

This recall is for model 993 cabs built between August 1993-Jan. 1998 only--it relates to faulty roof mechanisms causing it to open accidentally during high-speed travel. There are 8,252 affected vehicles in Europe and 8,952 in the US. There have been no reported accidents. http://www3.uk.porsche.com/english/gbr/new...004-12-29-1.htm

Here are the instructions for future reference by anyone else who needs to install the hard top fittings in '04 and later 996s: 1. Open conv. top all the way, then raise it about 1 foot. 2. Remove the 2 small roll bar covers (insert butter knife etc. from rear and pry up) 3. Unscrew 2 Philips screws now exposed in roll bar openings 4. reach into exposed soft top area and pry out 4 black plastic plugs holding grey felt cover 5. Separate the grey felt from large roll bar panel to expose center Philips screw (facing soft top) and remove 6. now the complete roll bar cover comes off 7. Both L and R hard top fittings are now exposed. Unscrew the 3 10mm bolts (6x20) holding a black plastic insert which is in place of the hard top fittings. (The two bolts facing the center are holding small L brackets into which the Philips screws of (3) fit.) 8. Slide the RIGHT fitting into place and screw in the 3 bolts (10mm) from step (7) 9. Do the same to the LEFT fitting, but first plug the electrical connection (for the heated rear window) into the socket which is on the back of the panel facing the stored soft top (it is about 4 inches down and a bit awkward to reach). 10. Replace the roll bar cover, slide in the grey felt, replace the plastic plugs and 3 Philips screws, then the small roll bar covers and you are set. The whole job should take 20-30 minutes. I would also get 2 extra 6x20 10mm bolts because there are 4 threaded openings in the new fittings, and there are only 3 bolts (but 4 openings) in the car. If you need to replace the locks on the hardtop, it is very easy but the left side is a bit tricky because of the wire for the rear window. You have to remove the cover which runs along the edge of the rear window Once it was installed, I just pushed the hardtop down and it practically locked itself.

Especially if you get the MM Cup Sport 3 rims from Tirerack http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?ta...Rear=no&email=Y

It is very easy EXCEPT for the cigarette lighter. It can take anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours to remove that infernal socket! Search the other threads for more on this.

I finally had the opportunity to drive my '04 C4S cab in the snow, using the Blizzak LM 25s from Tirerack. What incredible traction and control! This car handles snow and ice like nothing I've driven to date (including my 4x4 SUV). I had originally ordered the Dunlop SM 3s, but couldn't wait any longer, so Damon talked me into the more expensive Blizzaks. This upgrade was definitely worthwhile. On another note, I also completed the adaptation and install of my hardtop (see another thread), and I can't say enough about how solid and quiet it makes the cab feel, which is especially appreciated in winter driving. All in all, I'm a happy camper--now I just have to watch out for the oblivious idiots sharing the road with me!

First of all, you definitely have a MOST based fiber-optic stereo ('03 and newer, CDR-23). If your door speakers have the "Bose" label and there is a subwoofer enclosure in the passenger footwell (left side), you have the upgraded Bose system. Because of the fiber optics, you can forget about simple enhancements such as upgraded speakers or MP3 player input.

Mike, the dealers are both wrong. In 2002 Porsche replaced the current hardtop locks with a newer version which has teflon coated interior parts and differs on the outside by not having the red and white dots which show when the lock is engaged. There is a TSB (6117) on this website. If you check your hardtop you can see whether it has the red/white markings around the locking mechanism. If it does not, it is either newer than '01 or someone already made the change. Apparently there is no problem in using the old style locks with the new fittings. Good luck!

Well, I got the parts today and did the install. It took a while, only because I did not have good instructions from someone who had done this before. In that sense, I would be happy to share my experience with anyone contemplating this mod. The one missing item would be two extra 6x20 hex bolts which are required but were not included. Fortunately there appears to be a suitable connector for the heated rear window wire on the left side--I will only know if this is functional next time it rains. The whole job can be done in less than an hour, and requires the removal of the cover over the roll bar (the lowered soft top has to be raised about a foot). It is not a difficult job. The car looks great and I think winter driving will be a lot more enjoyable.

I used these guys for my center rear and front console and the door handles/cubbies. They did a great job, but I did not like the way it looked with my graphite grey interior. The quality and service was excellent, but it does look a bit like plastic, unlike the real wood which is polished but somehow has a different appearance. I reverted to the aluminum look, and sold most parts on Ebay.

It doesn't make any sense since the electronics are identical. Perhaps a newer battery makes a difference. My transfer to the CGT case used my spare key, so I attribute the slightly improved range to the fact that my original key was operating with a somewhat weaker battery.

Since it's so easy to transfer the internal components (see above) there is no real reason to pay the dealer for programming the CGT key. I now have an extra key head with the internals which could be programmed should I lose one of my 2 other keys.

If you find anything, I'm in!

Thanks TP, it worked like a charm!

I bought the Sears wrench (with the needle) but hate it. There is no accurate way of reading it. For the same money, they sell a decent one at Tirerack which works much better IMO.

I received some of the parts today. The new locks which replace the ones on the hardtop and now match the post 2001 version (without the red and white markings). I installed them quite easily, although the left one with the electrical connection for the heated rear window was quite difficult: you have to remove the inside cover which is held in place by some very tough snaps, and there is almost no play in the wire. I will find out tomorrow when the fittings for the back of the car will arrive. John Just found out parts are coming in from Germany midweek--there was a screw up at the parts dept. (?).

I just participated in a group buy on Rennlist for the new Carrera GT key from Brandywine. Following several recommendations I am trying to swap the components from my '04 C4S key into the new CGT key. Unfortunately I am at a loss concerning the metal "key" part: there seems to be no way to remove it from my old key without breaking it. I am trying to avoid the time and cost of going all the way to my dealer to have the new key reprogrammed. Apparently this method has worked for many others--is there a difference in MY'04 keys? I know that I am also supposed to move the small capsule containing signals for the steering wheel lock. To make matters worse, I now cannot snap my original key shut all the way, even though I replaced all components perfectly!

Mike--I am still waiting for the parts. I guess UPS is slow this month. I will let you know as soon as I can. John

Welcome to my world--it will cost you around $500 to get the parts. You will need the following: 996 563 403 03 new L lock 996 563 404 03 new R lock 900 378 030 09 screws x6 996 561 653 03 new bracket L 996 561 654 03 new bracket R I expect my parts this week and will tackle the job (hopefully) this weekend. I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks Loren, that's the TSB where I found the parts numbers. How hard is it to get the covers off the softtop housing and install all the hardware etc.?

This is getting more interesting. It appears that my convertible does not have the fittings which receive the lock from the hardtop. According to my dealer, if the car was not delivered with a hardtop since MY '04 there is no receiving mechanism installed! Aside from the cost (about 150.00 each, plus new locks for the hardtop as it is older than '02 @ 100.00 each!) I am concerned about how complex the installation will be, partly because the left side connects to the heated rear window. Am I the first to discover this problem with new convertibles?

I am trying my new hardtop on my '04 C4S cab, and the front is latched in position at the windshield, but the back won't catch when I turn the allen key handle. I've tried leaning on it while latching but it clicks without catching inside. is there a trick, or am I doing something wrong? I saw a TSB which mentioned newer locks for a retrofit, but I wonder if there is a way to adjust the older style locks (my top was used) to make them work. Thanks for any help, especially Don, Loren or TP.

Here is how it works: if you open/close the top while in motion, a warning message appears, but the mechanism continues operating up to a speed of 29 mph. As soon as you exceed that speed, it stops working, but resumes as you slow down. In my opinion, this is one of the most useful upgrades for convertibles ever.

Wow--That was fast! Exactly--and they cost only 5 bucks each....Do I need anything else for the installation? I assume the hardware is the same for '00-'04 model years? Thanks again.