CabC2

What was the outcome, in effort and money, in your case?

A swap can be a great thing. You can do the 3.4 or a 3.6. Just make sure you do it right. Replace the dme, instrument cluster and rewire the harness. I know that guys at Vision can do this for you. Talk to them about the pros and cons. It's not cheap but your car will be a rocket. Whatever you do.. DON'T DEAL WITH FABIAN ROOCK! :angry: If your engine is toast you may want to consider taking your losses and getting another car. You have to decide if the investment in a new engine makes sense. You wont be able to sell you car for much more with a new engine than if it had an original engine with 50k miles. Tough decision. Wait and see what your mechanic says. That smoke does not look good but you never know.. Yes, the car has 109,000 miles so either way is not worth a lot. I am definitively not looking at the investment side; nor I was planning on upgrading to sell it anytime soon. On top of that is a tiptronic, so the engine swap might be a tad more complicated; I am not sure if in the 2002 models the gear box is different or reinforced. I was planning - if I have to go the swap engine route - going to Roock... did't you do yours with them?

Here is a video of the fumes. Shops are closed today so car sitting through weekend. What do you think? Also, coolant color is brownish... but consistent. It does not smell like oil either. Oil looks ok... not mixed...

Thanks Phillipj, I have been following your ordeal a few months ago. After have done the swap, and now looking back, what are your two cents?

The best way to "loose the car". Well done, family first. I also agree with you regarding soldiers not making enough money. It is ridiculous. As you know, you will get another Porsche :) Best, JM

Back from travel. Need to really look into the issue. Any recommendations in Orange County / LA? There is a miriad of well known shops around... but I don't have a relationship with any and from what I read in the forums, if I have a real problem it is very easy that the wrong shop might give me a solution but not the right one, or the cheaper one. I include dealers... which I'd assume are the most expensive alternative. Any pointers folks?

I hope you are wrong too :) ... what would this imply, vs a AOS failure?

I just picked up my tip 99c2 cab from getting two new rear potenzas.. when I started the car, some strange sound came of the engine... clank clank clank, and it would increase with more throttle. I turned of the car and restarted it... the noise went away. But, when driving home around 30 miles /h the engine light came on, and white smoke started coming of the left exhaust.. a lot of smoke, and more when i pushed the throttle. I drove it for about a mile (i live close to the tire place) and parked it in my garage. The smoke has a light burned smell, of course. I read several causes throughout the forums and nothing looks good at all. car has 108,000 miles, never a problem. So, before I take to the mechanic, what am I looking at? Thanks for your help.

I installed a new one after failure, following the DIY in this board. Bought it at soncoast or sunset, do not remember. If you want to save money, it is very simple to change, it just takes a bit of time. I did not know what I was doing and it only took me 2 hours.

Yes, agreed with that. I had to. I rather go to Newport dealer as usual and call it a day. Not this time :)

see attached. 2mm wear is what porsche recommended. I did get this pic from another post in this forum, per Loren's. Check "replacing brake pads in the DIY section. From info in some other sites, you could use your rotors a bit longer if they are not cracked and you have to, as long as you do not brake hard (less thickness = less heat dissipation.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...luding%20C4S%20 http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._BRKpad_pg1.htm If you are on a budget, skip changing the clip kit recommended in the DIY in this forum, and you can skip also the pin that holds the pads in place. Assuming your brake sensors are not lit, you dont need to change them either. You can also skip the vibration dampers and reglue the old ones. It will not affect performance but brakes might make some noise. 50/50.

you can get aftermarket pads at www.pelicanparts.com, ex oem supplier so basically same thing than textar which is oem. difference is around $85 for rear textar pads vs around $53 for alternative. rotors, not bad there, but maybe better deal at www.suncoast.com http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...96BrakesCarrera or at shttp://www.sunsetimports.com/ usually very very inexpensive, but dont know if they have aftermarket. those 3 places. compare shipping and such and very quickly you'll have best price. I had to take care of my rear brakes a couple of weeks ago. I did skip changing rotors, they were worn down 2 mm thus I should change. but tight budget and for now, I just changed the pads. Unless you drive hard, the rotors cool down fine as long as there are no cracks of course.

Yes, I am changing pads or I know that it will be bad. Fronts have life left because were changed not too long ago. And Im planning of getting some mintex pads instead of oems to save a couple of bucks. Normally I just go with OEM but not now. So, even if you dont need to change the rotors, do you have to resurface them? Or..?

Thanks for replies Loren, I'll take a look at the rotors the first thing.

My brake light came on as the rear brakes are worn out and the sensors came on. I am going to change the pads (for sure), following Loren's post in the DIY section. However, I'd like not to change the rotors, yes I know that I should take care of the car that is why I am asking the following: 1- All mechanics tell me I should change the rotors as well. In this forum I have seen that maybe is not needed (watch for cracks etc.) Do I have to change them for sure? 2 - What happens if, following whatever advice from point 1, it is indicated that I change them, but I don't? Does it become a question of noise, vibration, or worse? 3 - Can I drive the car AT ALL with the brake warning light on, driving carefully and using gears to reduce speed? Planning to take it to my buddy's house he has a good setup in his garage, but he's 50 miles of freeway away. Thanks for help in advance; trying to do the minimum to keep the daily driver going, no performance track days here. Car is 99 C2 Cab.

1999 C2 tip cab; 100,700 at this moment, drove it 45,000 miles in the last two years, daily driver. no leaks no probs. only changed water pump a few months ago and did y myself following Loren's DIY :)

Yes, fix it yourself, there is a DYI in the DYI section on this site (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493). I did it a couple of months ago: basically, all there is to it is unscrew 2 screws, with your head under the steering wheel. And, buying the new switch which is $12 in some sites. Same than an Audi switch. THAT IS IT!

My pump gave away. Dealer wanted to charge me $1,300. I bought it on sunset, $187 plus shipping, and followed instructions. Spent sunday morning and new pump is installed and working. Thanks Loren and all :)

Thanks, that's what I thought; that they should be interchangeable. The steering wheel I am looking at, comes with airbag :)

Nobody knows if the steering wheel is the same in 996 C2 and 996 turbo, both tip? Anybody? :P

I found a steering wheel for a 996 Turbo, tiptronic, for sale. I was wondering if this wheel would work with my 1999 C2 996 tip. Anybody knows if it should work? Thanks,

1999 996 Cab C2 Tip. Acquired around 45k miles. 89k miles now after a bit over two years if I recall correctly. No problems so far. If engine pops, I'll put a new or newer one and keep going. Want to keep until 150k or so, for saying a number.

Well you have to decide first what you need from the lot. Myself I would lean towards duraflex or eurathane as they flex the most and my car is very low and in flood states (KS) all the roads have a channeling effect. But they have their drawbacks as PJ mentioned for the most part they cannot be repaired as they flex more than the repair and will break again. and well ABS should never be used IMO tough yea, heavy yea, warps in season change and heat Yea. Fiber again as mentioned by PJ unless bought from a reputable manufacturer usually envolves 3-6 hours fit and prep time, but it is solid state, it'll go 20 years, no prob. but in time 20+yrs. it will spider web a little under the paint, now that is an easy, easy, fix at the time of repaint and it does not do it so much as in the past. Lastly it can be repaired, to as good as new in most cases, but sometimes the repair time make it a new case as it would cost more to pay for the labor. But all that being said Look at the TOP ie $$$$$ manufacturers and see what materials they use. Eurathanes and the other plastic variations were put into place as a money saver for mass production, a good mold and gel coat and your ready to paint, for track purpouses fabulous, turn and burn. They have improved the durability and warping with variations like FRP which takes a good plastic clean finish and gives it light rigidity by coating the back in fiber. Also with molds you have lines, even fiber molds, but with the plastic ones you have discrete warps around them and it is costly to have them smooth/erased, fiber it is 1,2,3. Now with all this knowledge forsaken just go buy something that looks really cool to you! HTH Thanks a lot! This answers a lot of the questions I had. Basically, Fiber if I want to go through the trouble/expense of fitting and such. Otherwise, urethane serves fine too. Regarding the look, I am looking for an updated look, more than a "heavy" look. In my humble opinion, many of the kits make the cabs "bottom part heavy", although they work very well on coupes.

I am thinking on upgrading the standard look of my 99c2 cab with front and rear bumpers, and possibly side skirts. After searching for the usual suspects, I did not find any clear comparison between materials. I have found the following materials for after market pieces: - ABS - Fiberglass - Urethane - Duraflex ABS being the cheaper one, and the other 3 oscillating depending on maker etc. What are your thoughts on what route to go? Obviously looking for the right balance expenditure/result/car is not worth much this days. Planning to keep it for 2 or 3 years, very happy with it. I am gearing towards a gt3 setup, similar to what alter_schwede has (lookup registry). Very nice. My car is Artic Silver and boxter red. Cheers all.