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Everything posted by pricebill

  1. Thank you. Worked perfectly and allowed me to drive home for the last 3 hours with music. Donated. Nice to be back on this forum.
  2. Hello Loren, It's been many years since I owned a Porsche and this 2000 Cabriolet followed me home yesterday. I'm going to keep it. May I please have a code? CDR-220 Serial: X5036582
  3. Thanks Loren. You are the expert. Flawless rear Savannah Beige 996 leatherette seats are currently available in Sydney, AUS.
  4. I recently purchased a complete Savannah Beige set of seats from an '02 996 owner. I installed the front seats in my Boxster and put the rears on ebay. I assumed they were leather as the fronts were definitely so. The winner of my ebay auction is complaining bitterly that I've swindled him and the rears are in leatherette. Sadly he's in Australia and I'm in Los Angeles so I'm not in much of a position to argue and have arranged (at my own expense) to have them returned for a full refund. The roundtrip shipping will now eclipse the very reasonable $199 price I sold them for. A complete di
  5. Wow. It's been years since I first wandered in here with my '98 Boxster and here I am again with a '99 911. I just couldn't stay away. CDr-22 type 4462 serial w5011359 Thanks in advance for my code.
  6. Thank to all for the advice. It was the water pump. Replaced it, thermostat and belt. A surprisingly easy job.
  7. Hi everyone, I'm embarrassed to say that it's been a while since I've been back to these forums. My '98 Boxster has been running incredibly well until last week when I began hearing a rattle from the right rear of the car. I've done a pretty good search about rattles and soon I'll be removing the serpentine belt to see if the sound is coming from one of the pulleys or begin the sad process of hitting the heat shields with a rubber mallet. In the meantime I thought I'd post up a video / audio of the actual noise and see if someone much smarter than me can provide the proper diagnosis. The
  8. My apologies for adding to this old thread but I'm seriously envious of everyone who managed the engine mount replacement with minimal trouble. I have not been so lucky and am looking for some help. Witness the attached pictures. With my new mount bolted to the frame I am now about an inch away from lining up the mount with the engine. Examination of the old mount shows that not only was the rubber seriously torn from the mount but pushed heavily to the left side of the car. (When I say left or right I am looking forward from the rear of the car). UPDATE: I installed the frame mount ups
  9. How did you get the wire through the firewall?
  10. The audio quality out of the iPod portion of the phone is crystal clear. The RFI from the phone communicating over the air is another story. From this position on the dash an occasional light ticking can be heard through the car speakers. Pull it out of the cradle and stick it anywhere near the Becker and the racket is terrible. I put a layer of aluminum foil between the phone / stereo and this eliminated all of the noise but then wrapping the phone up like left over food isn't really the look I'm hoping for. Pulling the Becker and wrapping it in an adhesive RFI foil like this might be
  11. I've been looking for a car mount for my new iPhone. With it's big fat touch screen connected to Google Maps I felt like this would be the first phone I'd like in my line of sight while driving. Unfortunately all of the mounts built especially for the Boxster put the phone at hip level. I don't want to glance toward the floor of the vehicle to see who is calling. I also didn't want a suction cup-gooseneck combo snaking it's way down from the windshield trailing a bunch of cords. The order of the day was; a drop-in mount containing iPhone power and an audio connection to the AUX in on my B
  12. I can't believe I'm back asking for another code this fast but I found a CDR-220 on ebay and ordered a Blau/83NPUT cable for it so I could plug in an iPod and keep everything looking fairly stock. Of course all promises of "code included" with the radio were completely false. Here are the specs on the new radio. Type: CDR 220 Model No.: BE 6625 Serial No. 25015180 Thank you. -b
  13. I ordered a new brake booster and stainless lines from Pelican and finally got a chance to install all this weekend. Here's how things went. After removing the battery cover and the left side piece of plastic over the steering I found a small swimming pool of brackish water. Initially I paid no attention to RFM's earlier advice about water in the brake booster because I'm in Southern California and it just doesn't rain here. Being a new owner I DID wash the car myself (also unheard of in Southern California) and the drains for this area of the car were completely blocked. So really, in w
  14. 8762 was the charm. Like magic. Thanks very much. -bill
  15. I've got the same problem. Two days ago the brake pedal on my '98 goes just slightly mushy at the first touch. About an inch of soft play and then a quick pump will bring it back to the firm feel I've been used to. LAST night I hit the brakes at very slow speed and they locked almost immediately. I pulled the pedal back with the side of my shoe and we were off. The brake fluid reservoir is full and there's no dripping in the driveway. As per this discussion over on pelican parts here I'm going to replace the brake lines and then replace the booster. I'll let you know how it goes.
  16. Ok. I did the OBC hack yesterday and am pleased to report that it worked flawlessly. Now of course the radio is needing a code and calls to the previous owner, mechanic, etc have not turned up anything. I looked under the hood and in every manual. So. It's a Becker CDR 210. Model No. BE 2282 Serial: V5010459 I'd love the magic code for this unit. Thanks in advance. -bill
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