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Everything posted by 714dre

  1. I've got a 2001 C4 and noticed the same thing... It is less pronounced compared to my 99 C2, but still very noticeable. Since then I put on the factory GT3 style front bumper, and the floating feeling is completely gone. It is amazing how a seemingly subtle change to the aerodynamics will have such a great affect on the driving experience. My other option was to listen to my girlfriend... "You should not be driving that fast anyway"
  2. Sorry, Wow, I can't find that receipt in my records... but am 95% sure I got it through Sunset Porsche Phone: 1-800-346-0182 If I had to guess I'd say 1300, but it was a few years ago and really not sure.
  3. You may want to talk with the shop who will be doing the work (if not doing yourself)... When I had my bumpers updated, they said they would do one of the off brands, but very much recommended factory parts. They were concerned fitment would not be perfect, and would only guarantee absolute satisfaction if factory parts were used He showed me some pics they had done of a couple other cars with non-Porsche parts, and though looked ok, it was enough to convince me to get the real stuff. The line where bumper met the hood were not perfect.. Just tiny variations of that curve where the gap was smaller in the center than on the sides. Slight, but enough for me. I did the factory GT3 front bumper on my 2001, and it came out perfect... I did leave the basic sides, and it looks fine to me. I can't help you on the spoilers.
  4. Another tip for cleaning your windshield is #0000 Steel Wool... (make sure it is #0000) Only thing to keep in mind is obviously dont get it wet or the steel wool will rust. I've also been told it works great on chrome, but that I have not yet been brave enough to try.
  5. Any chance you could provide X74 kit part # for 2001 Carrera 4 6Speed?
  6. I did not attempt to replace just the voltage regulator... My vehicle has just over 115k miles, so I figured it made sense to swap out the entire alternator.
  7. For anyone who found this post via searching: Replacing my alternator did fix the problem... and if you have to change the alternator, you might as well do the belt at the same time.
  8. Guys, Am having some strange issues with my 2001 Carrera4. The car has sat for several weeks, with me starting it for a few minutes every week or two. Now that I finally am able to drive it, I took her for a mellow ride (as opposed to driving like i stole it) Everything seemed fine until after a few miles of driving at operating temp, several of the dash warning lights came on. So, I drove it the few blocks back to my house... the whole time everything felt fine. Turned the car off, checked fluids, hooked up a meter to battery. Everything looks good. Minutes later I decided to turn her back on, and I get what is in the video linked below... RPM is constantly surging, the voltmeter in the dash is going from about 11-11.75, several of the warning lights are on, and the instrument lights that are on will dim with the RPM surges. After that I have noticed that with the key in the ignition, but with the car off, voltmeter shows about 11/11.5. Check with my handheld meter on the battery it shows just above 12 volts... Battery is about 3-4 months old. Any pointers? I am really jonesin to drive her. Also I should mention, I am suspicious of the accuracy of my handheld meter... it is a cheap one, and several years old.. though seems correct on my other cars. Thanks
  9. Thanks guys. I did get the washer on the cap and I'm confident that connection is good. I'm thinking its leaking at the other end since thankfully it sounds like my system doesn't have a leak. so with the bleeder leaking slowly, would it even matter if I did the fluid by only filling the reservoir, not the motive? I think I've read about that method on here, and at least I could do the flush this weekend.
  10. I think I may have a leak in my fuel system. I just purchased a Motive bleeder, and did the initial 'pump it to about 10PSI' to ensure no leaks before doing the full flush. Well, it does not hold the pressure... within a few minutes it will drop a few pounds. It is slow, but is definitely leaking. I disconnected everything, reconnected and tightened as hard as I dare tighten it, but get the same result. My question for the group is what is my best bet on diagnosing this? I don't see any leaks on the ground below the car... The brakes feel fine on the car. At first I thought maybe the power bleeder connection to the reservoir was it, but I tightened it so much I am pretty sure I can rule that out. So guys, any tricks to tracking this down? Thanks
  11. My Cargraphic mufflers are amazing. No drone, German made, and orgasmic sound.
  12. I have heard it can be made to work... but the wiring has been changed, and though you can move the mirrors with the little directional pad in the cockpit, it moves in different positions than expected. hope that helps.
  13. though i haven't heard of a faulty ignition lock assembly causing this specifcally... I know it can cause all sorts of wierd eletrical gremlins... when mine was going bad, my a/c would only blow hot air from time to time. have you had any issues with the key sticking or difficulty turning the key in the ignition?
  14. Even if the frame is not bent, and you are able to repair the exterior, the interior, front suspension etc etc... Then you get to think "Is the engine ok?" If it has just been sitting there a few years, well, good luck running that motor for any amount.
  15. Eject all the cd holders so you have something to grab onto, and gently but firmly pull straight back.. it should pop right out.
  16. Had this same part fail on me two sundays ago... It is the second part mentioned... mine was -51, but replaced with -52. Bolts right to the block, easy as pie. Worst part of swapping it out is the broken bit left inside of the hose... I used some pliers to squeeze the hose closed on the broken bit, so as to crumble it into tiny pieces while inside the hose... then just hold hose with opening down, and tap it a bunch so the bits fall out. I wish I would've figured that out up front... hopefully this info helps you save some time and sanity. good luck. Yes, Item 18 would be correct. 996.106.226.52 Joining socket -- US MSRP $4.57
  17. I agree that svansyoc is on the right track... but FYI- the link I posted, the line that starts with "Remove the key cylinder"... Not that I am suggesting you to remove the cylinder, but that section may give you some help in understanding how it clicks in etc... good luck.
  18. that sounds to me like your ignition switch assembly going bad.... mine would do odd things intermittently, no headlights, no a/c, etc... I swapped it out and have had no problems since. DIY here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/30-diy-upgraded-ignition-switchlock-installation-for-996boxster/
  19. Interesting idea... but there must be a reason if Porsche engineers haven't done it.. You do know about the 3rd Radiator kit, right? It is at the top of the 996 DIY Mods section.
  20. My last pair of Bridgestones lasted just over 16k miles... I was surprised because I always drive it like it's stolen. I think anywhere from 12-15k is to be expected. If it is worse than that you likely have an alignment issue, or just too aggressive an alignment. How is the wear pattern on yours? Insides of my rear tires tend to go much quicker than the outsides.
  21. My vote is "Carrera" badge, or nothing... Blank decklid I think looks great on a black car but I'm not too sure on a red car. The speedster/roadster reminds me too much of boxster.
  22. I'd say go with a new pair of mufflers... I recommend Cargraphic... awesome German product for a German car.
  23. sorry i misunderstood... my symptom was the blower would not blow. But I do know the ignition switch can cause all sorts of oddities, but no idea why. here are two write ups Preferred full replace: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16077 less expensive partial swap out: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=29137
  24. by any chance is the ignition switch going bad? or if not, it may be about do go... maybe try jiggling the key a little bit, see if that helps. there is a great write up on here that shows the process... not too hard a job.
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