cheetah

Hello, I have a 2002 Boxster S that needs the back plastic window replaced (cracked). I saw the eMiata website, but saw some negative comments regarding the quality. I was in contact with a member on her "JUNIINC" last month, but he hasn't logged in for a month and I can't find another way to contact him. Is his version sold anywhere else? Or is there another option? Warm weather is getting close and I want to be ready. :) Thanks in advance.

Can the dealer make these changes by giving them both DME's, or do they need the car present? I have a 2002 Boxster S that I am doing a 3.4L 7.8DME conversion into. I obviously have my original DME and also have a 7.8 DME sitting here that I bought with all of its codes / numbers on a piece of paper. The dealer said that they will help me flash it (as I bought the engine from them), but I would prefer not to have to tow the car to them just to flash it. Or is there a way to allow the car to ignore the immobilizer and get it to the dealer that way? Any help is appreciated, as I will hopefully be to that point in a few weeks that the car will be ready to be driven again! Thanks,

I little expensive at over $1000 though. I am going to make a one piece spacer for the front, but I am still asking if those mounts that I pointed out are what I will swap into my Boxster transmission mount brackets.

Hello, I have looked around for some time, and can't really seem to find a straight answer to this question: How does one tune a modern (7.2 or 7.8 DME) Porsche ROM image? For example, on my Pontiac GTP I use a small box, software on laptop, and OBDII cable to read, write, and real-time log basically everything on my car. I can adjust everything from "timing vs. cylinder volume vs. rpm" to at what throttle percentage my air conditioning turns off. Is there a platform like this for our Porsche vehicles? Obviously, there are companies offering dyno'ed tunes and out-of-the-box tunes, so the DME must have been cracked. Where would one go about finding more information on getting one of these packages? I am decently experienced in this type of tuning, and would prefer to be able to work on my own custom flashes. I am currently putting a VarioCam Plus 3.4L into my 986 Boxster and I would love to be able to dial my MAF in exactly to my hybrid intake, etc. Thanks,

Are these highlighted numbers the mounts to order for lowering the engine for Boxster installs? Thanks,

Do you have the p/n's for these? I can't seem to find them, and looking at the catalog, there are a few choices. I will be swapping the 3.4L into my 986 Boxster and would like to use these mounts for the transmission. Thanks

Hello, I have a 2002 Boxster S with an unusable motor, and I just bought a 2006 Cayman S 3.4L for a good price to swap in. I have a few questions: What would be needed to convert a ECU to 7.8? Is it physically a different computer hardware, or is it simply different programming? If it is different hardware, would it be possible to use the Cayman's ECU in my Boxster? Would the Cayman computer be how I would control the Variocam Plus? Or do you sell a box that can control it? If you make something, does it control the Plus just like the factory computer (rpm, loads, etc.) Is there any incentive to run 7.8, or will getting the proper MAF frequencies and the Plus working give the same results? Sorry for so many questions, but I new to the changes on these engines.

I have that bank open. I have the cams out, and the intake cam was off (looking at timing indent on each cam and comparing it to the different colored links). It was off by approx the degrees off that the Durametric was stating. The pads on the actuator are very worn with grooves in them. The main tensioner arms look good though. So my next question is this: How do I test the solenoid assembly? I have it disconnected from the cams, and tested it putting 12v on it while on a bench. It clicks but no noticeable movement. I get 13 ohms with a meter across the leads. Does this sound like it is bad? Thanks

Hello everyone, Yesterday, driving down the highway, my 2002 Boxster S suddenly shut-off. Put it into neutral, started it, and it started again, only to die a minute later. I roll off the highway into a safe area (luckily). The car wouldn't start again (just cranked), so it was towed home. This morning, I plug in my Durametric and see that I have a code P1397 (Camshaft sensor bank 2). I looked at the "Actual Values" tab on the software, without starting it again and it showed that following: So now I am worried! Did one bank skip a tooth (or broken chain)? I did the IMS upgrade a few months ago, so I don't think that is the problem. Any tips or ideas? Thanks as always,

Great call! It was hard to see, but the top counterweight was hitting the transmission (the arm was bent in slightly). Moved it out and it works great. Really hard to see the area, I don't know if one could reach it with the stock muffler one (I have the Borla). Thanks!

Hello, 2002 Boxster S / 6-speed I just got done putting an Aluminum Flywheel, and new clutch on the car. Test driving it, I can only shift into the "forward" gear positions: R, 1, 3, 5. I can't get it to engage 2, 4, 6. Naturally, I thought it was just the shift cable, but when I disconnect the cable from the transmission, and move the level manually on the transmission, it seems to move naturally in one direction, but not much in the other. So it doesn't seem to be the cable, but the transmission itself. The car runs and sounds great shifting from 1 to 3 to 5, but something is wrong. Any ideas? Is there any adjustment of this arm? Thanks,

Hello those two codes didn't work. Since that info was on the tag that came with it, I decided that I should see what the radio itself gave me. It is as follows: Type 4462 Ser. No. Y5039540 24/99 Gal: 00 Does this help any? Thank you so much, Paul Try 1538 or 1536

Hello, I found this from another forum, I hope that you can help me: 2002 Boxster S CDR-220 Model: BE 4462 Serial: Y5039540 EC: 112 Is all that I have on my tag. Is this enough to come up with it? Thanks in advance, Paul

Well, I am back. Finally weather where I can work on and drive the Boxster. I took off my steering wheel again, and the brown wire was loose, breaking the ground (that wire goes to ground). BUT... That did not fix it. When the horn is pressed (or when one manually connects the two wires with the wheel off), the relay engages but no horn. I did swap another relay, no difference. So, now I have no horn at any time. The horn does go off for the alarm, so the horns themselves do work. Any ideas?

I did try disconnecting the battery. Still no throttle. Can a bad pedal cause all of these codes? With the Durametric running, pressing the accelerator did NOT change any of the voltages to the sensors. I am fearing wiring damage, I hope not though.

Hello. 2002 Boxster S 6-speed I suddenly am having a problem: When the vehicle is on, the accelerator pedal does not do anything (no affect on the engine at all). I know that I have the throttle-by-wire, but here is a quick background of what I have done recently… I changed the clutch (not really a bad job at all surprisingly) and all of the sudden I am having the pedal problem. I had cleaned the throttle body while the clutch was being done, but everything seems to be in order there (took the electronics apart and all seems to look perfect). It ran fine after the clutch job for a few days. I have the Durametric, and it comes up with the following codes: P1219 – Porsche Code 256 – Accelerator Pedal Potentiometer P1578 – Porsche Code 428 – Accelerator Pedal Potentiometer P0121 – Porsche Code 117 – Throttle Valve P1121 – Porsche Code 430 – Throttle Position Sensor P1122 – Porsche Code 431 – Throttle Position Sensor P0103 – Porsche Code 115 – Mass Air Flow Sensor So I ran a real-time watch of the sensor values, and came up with the following: Mass air flow: 48.5 kg/h Pedal value: 30.07% Pedal encoder potentiometer 1: 4.54V Pedal encoder potentiometer 2: 4.54V Setpoint throttle: 2.98% Actual value throttle: 116.8% Throttle position sensor: 5.00V Throttle position sensor: 5.00V Throttle plate angle potentiometer 1: 116.8% Throttle plate angle potentiometer 2: -14.1% Mass air flow sensor: 4.99V I have tried the “normal” fixes: car on accessory for 1 minute, then off for 10 sec, and disconnecting the MAF. Disconnecting the MAF made the car run worse, so it should be fine. I also disconnected the battery for a bit to no avail. Can this be a problem with the pedal assembly? I see the 5V readings on the TPS, is that a broken ground or something like that? It sounds like a maximum value? The throttle body is properly plugged in, and the plug shows no sign of damage. How is this wire loomed to the pedal and computer? It disappears under the intake manifold. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I have only had the car for a few months, but I have put a lot into it, and I want to drive it for the final few weeks of nice weather here, and this is frustrating.  BTW, photos of the car can be seen at: http://www.myspace.com/cheetahonline http://www.cheetahonline.com/vehicles/boxster.html Thanks, Paul

Hello, I have a 2002 Boxster S that I just bought, and am looking into a better clutch and lighter flywheel. I plan on doing major engine changes, along with suspension upgrades; but at this point I know the current clutch is already getting ready to go. This will need to stay streetable, but I want better performance and do not want to put a stock clutch back in. What is everyones recommendation and pricing of all the clutch related parts and the lighter flywheels? I am new to this platform, so I am not ready sure of what is available. I was thinking about a ceramic clutch, but I am by no means a clutch expert. This is a car that will be driven on the street, but is not my everyday car. I don't mind it being a less "comfortable" or quiet, as I am looking for as much performance out of it as I can, without going strictly track or making it undriveable during the inevitable stop and go traffic that it will sometimes be in. I understand that the clutch life may be the same as a stock one. As long as it is not a very short lifespan, the longevity is not a concern. Probably slightly more street time than track, but much of the street will be highway driving. Thanks

2002 Boxster S 6-speed / 65K miles I have had the car for about 2 months. Up until two days ago, the clutch pedal was very solid, but maybe a little hard to push. It worked flawlessly though. One day ago, the pedal suddenly got easier to push. It started to make a slight rattling sound when the clutch was pushed in. Today, the pedal seems to go from hard to softer and back, but the rattling is able to be heard from the cabin with the top down. It is very noticeable, something is definitely wrong. It engages, but sounds horrible and seems to engage with the pedal pushed down pretty far. I jacked up the rear, and looked to obvious things. The fluid level is good. The shifter cables are working properly. There are not any obvious fluid leaks by the slave cylinder. The rattling sounds like it coming from inside the trans. Does anyone have ideas? I am trying to quickly get up to speed on this car, and I hope that I don't have a major problem already. Thanks in advance,

Is has a 3-way toggle setup to tell it the number of cylinders, and I did that. It didn't work, and neither did any other combination (I tried them all). Anyone have a shift light in use on a 986?

I bought the Diametric tool, and that cleared the airbag and ABS lights. But the horn still doesn't work right. It is only two wires. They can't be mixed up. Something weird is happening... Anyone with any ideas? I just replaced my 4spoke with a 3spoke and I have the same problem... Did you find a solution? The wiring seems correct and it looks like it could only even go on one way. This is WEIRD!

Hello. I have installed a Raptor shift light, and am having some problems. Installation manual can be seen here: http://www.raptorperformance.com/INSTRUCTI..._revisionD_.pdf I have tried all of the various settings, and it lights up at different rpms depending on whuch gear I am in (6-speed, 2002 S). I know that my tach signal wire that this is connected to works properly as my GPS reads the rpms correctly from this wire. How is our ignitions set up? I believe that we have one coil per cylinder, but does it fire multiple times per rotation? Anyone else had problems / success with a shift light? I bought this one because I was looking for a small enclosure, as I don't like the huge shift light looks. Thanks in advance, Paul

Nope, I ju8st bought the car last month. It did not have the problem until after the wheel was off though. But I double checked and the wiring looks correct. RRRR..... :)

The ABS light happened a week after the horn problem, but yes, I assume "something" happened. The dash is not a complicated job, just time consuming. There are not many wires that are disconnected, and each of those plugs were put back in properly. If the horn didn't work at all, I would understand it. But I can put the key in and out (not touching anything else), and the horn will only work if the key is out of the ignition. That is very weird to me. Does the horn work normally if the key is out?

I had looked at those, but I checked again. They are both good.