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mudman2

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Everything posted by mudman2

  1. It sounds like one of the control units has given up the ghost, or needs to be reset using PIWIS, they will need to fault find which one I am afraid, perhaps Loren can help id which one has those funtions in common
  2. Thanks Loren that would have helped a lot when I first tried to do it ! Mike
  3. OK this is MY way I know there must be others but here goes. I use a 9 inch flat bladed screwdriver and a leather glove. (patent pending hahaha) Once you have the screws out (under the covers on the side when the hatch is open) you can feel it pivot a little Place the driver from the side of the car towards the middle behind the cluster slightly higher than half way up the side using the leather glove the protect the paint work and as a leverage point. What i did then was to hold the cluster with my hands and lean against the screwdriver. The most important thing here is to use no force, don't hit the screwdriver with your hip just kinda lean on it with slowly increasing weight, it will pop out. The connector is a ball and socket made of plastic so it stretches then releases. Make sure you hold the cluster or it may drop to the floor Good luck haha mudman how did you break that seal what tool did you use im afraid to dent the rear end :censored: haha :D
  4. On 03 / 04 models there was a problem which resulted in horns being replaced, mine was done under warranty for the same problem, sounded a bit like a cow.
  5. Yes the unit is from mObridgeinc.com, I got an early one. Its quite a device ! As far as I remember the S models all have MOST. Pricing should be on their website, but I think a group buy is in order at some point.
  6. yes its the same unit I believe
  7. From 05 I think they made it plug and play, I know of 3 or 4 cases where installs have been done. By the way I have a working CDC for sale if anyone wants to make me an offer.
  8. First there are 2 plugs, they may take a bit of finding, 1 is a narrow black edge connector, this is the power. The second contains 2 orange leads, actually fibre optic cables, in from the front and out to the BOSE amp. Its going to have a loopback connector on it as the MOST loop is serial and without it the BOSE system will not work. This needs to be removed and plugged into the matching female on the CDC. Once connected with the light heading in the right direction the next time the car is started (or the door is opened) the MOST system will boot and the head unit will see the changer and just work, no PIWIS is needed. Sorry Loren I have been playing as you know hahahah Mike
  9. I too am looking forward to the result. If you need help removing the rear clusters I will be happy to talk you through it. They are VERY easy to break. There are some writings on this borad I seem to recall. Mike
  10. Bring it over to my house and I will show you how. Bucks County, PA good luck trying to remove the tailights :D i havnet had any success dealer always does my bulbs :P
  11. There is a new unit out, I have it in my S, it by mObridge, I will be posting the installation instructions soon, its Apple Certified. I am running iPod and Sirius thru it right now but am adding its integrated "Parrot" bluetooth unit and the Video input shortly. More to follow but this unit kicks ***.
  12. Thanks Loren Do you also know which fuse provides power to the rear CD Changer circuit ? Mike
  13. Nothing in the spares on the drivers side fusebox ? I cannot test without opening the door and setting the accessory start up sequence. I would rather not move under the seat is I can avoid it Mike ut the
  14. Loren do you have a procedure for removing the passenger side glovebox ? Thanks Mike
  15. There is a new device coming available in the next few weeks, its just been Apple Approved and is in final field testing. Other devices share common problems, this one promises a much better solution. Watch this space.
  16. BOSE = yes Xenon = yes PCM Nav = yes Alum Sportpack = do not think so Comfort seats = do not think so (full leather regular seats I think) MFW = Not sure what this is
  17. My Transmission was replaced with an 05 unit and all the matching control units, no more issues Thank you for your input. I just got a call from the dealer and Porsche is having them run some tests on the electronics and they also think that it may be a mechanical issue. I will let them know about the hydraulic Valve bloc. Thanks Porsche had asked the dealer to run some specific tests on the car, I am not sure what the tests were. The out come is that Porsche has authorized the dealer to replace my transmission and Tip CU with a new one. If anyone has had their 2003 Cayenne S transmission replaced I would like to know how it is working out and if you have had any more problems with the transmission. Thanks
  18. I had mine replaced (04) with an 05. They also had to change a lot of control boxes until they had a matched set. Mine has been fine since and it was much better.
  19. You are correct, a typo. The plugs are not required if your car had the coils done at the time when they were changing plugs and coils together. They dont do that anymore under warranty they are told (by PCNA) only to change the broken ones, the dealers hate it. Here is the check list, the cost was $485. The plugs were ok because of the coil/plug change I already had done. If they had been done it was an extra $200. 60K_service.pdf
  20. If your on DVD you may be in luck if your on CD your not.
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