kbrandsma

When I purchased my 98 Boxster it had only been driven 1K miles in two years and immediately developed a RMS leak as well as an AOS problem. Both of which I fixed myself. Also did the clutch at the same time. I would change oil, drive conservitively for a while and monitor closely.

PM sent

+1 Change oil prior to storage.

Tire Rack Survey results for Summer Performance Tires. CLICK HERE Michlin Pilot Sport series considered a best bet.

It is always a good idea to store a automobile with a tank of fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer. I'm not sure what you mean by cylinder sleeves? Make sure the battery is fully charged. I certainly would not buy the vehicle if it won't start. Better to spend a little more with low miles, one owner and all service records (maybe this is) otherwise a cheap vehicle will be far from cheap down the road. Check out Mike Focke's Web Page HERE for purchasing advice. A PPI inspection is always recommended.

If you don't want the self leveling feature then they are plug and play. SImply remove your existing pair and insert the litronic ones. There is a pair on this Board right now for sale by owner. Click HERE I just purchased a 3 spoke wheel and recommend the seller. You will also need to swap out the fuse by removing the 7.5 amp fuse in A9 and A10 and replace with 15 amp ones. More info can be found in the TSB# 9415 found on this Board. You have to be a contributing member to access and download the Technical Service Buletins (TSB's.) Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Try the basics first. Emergency brake handle on? Key in the ignition and turn on. Release the top by pushing the button in, then pulling the lever back. Operate the top button on dash.

Windscreen is usually the rear lexan screen that is inserted between the rollbars.

If the left side works ok, try switching them.

Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at. Thank you for the help thus far. Harryrcb is correct. No break-in period for clutch. When you said dealer replaced clutch, perhaps didn't replace throw out bearing. Are they reputable? I would take it back. How many miles? Depending on the miles there are a few other things to service while tranny is out. RMS, IMS (retrofit), AOS, oil filler hose(s), dip stick tube to name a few. Not necessary to change all but easier to examine and then replace as needed from below.

Check your coolant cap. If it ends in 01 replace it.

What are your options codes?

Try to locate where the leak is coming from. Is it for sure oil? (rule out it's not coolant, transmission oil, or power steering fluid, etc) 1/2 quart is a lot. Some common places for oil could include: spark plug tubes on either side driver or passenger (usually small amounts) AOS or the black small accordian rubber hose that is beneath it. More towards passenger side Check around oil plug or oil filter (any oil changes lately) Center to slightly towards driver's side or.... RMS or IMS dead center where the transmission bell housing meets the engine block (directly under the clutch)

Kent: There is an overflow tube that runs from underneath the drain hole which at 9 o'clock when looking at the coolant cap (with the thin black plastic cosmetic cover removed), goes through the rear firewall and is then routed to an area just inboard of the right rear wheel well. The overflow will usually end up dripping onto the ground just inside the right rear wheel. Since you just filled it, I would first check whether any coolant has indeed overflowed by pulling the small black plastic cover off (after removing the coolant cap and the oil fill cap). Here is a photo of where the drain hole is located (disregard the other labels): Regards, Maurice. Maurice, That is a great picture and a great reference. Thanks for posting. KentV, if the radiator cap doesn't end in 03 or higher you definately need to start with the cap and replace oit.

I was working on the Boxster this weekend. Oli change, fuel and air filters, brake line flush, and a new starter. My starter was making that terrible sound at startup. When I finally got everything back together and took it for a drive I noticed no power steering and the warning lights were all lit up on the dash like a christmas tree. I suspected a broken serpintine belt. I removed the front cabin engine cover and sure enough the serpintine belt was shredded and had jumped the pulleys. On a closer look the alternator bracket had snapped. Here is a shot the bracket. Has anyone had a similar experience with their 986? (similar threads on 996 but not 986). Are there other underlying issues. Loose bolts? Etc... All the pulleys and rollers seem free spinning. It's interesting because I recently had the alternator out three months ago to get behind it to replace the changeover valve.

I have a set. PM me if interested.

With 104 K on the speedmeter, replacing the MAF seems resonable to me. Not sure if you are the original owner or have all the old service records from previois owner but if the the MAF has never been replaced I would replace it. (Autohaus less than $200) shipped.) Easy DIY. What will your Indy charge? Anyone in your area that can exchange yours with theirs to determine? Just a thought.

I had 1128 and 1130 and replaced the MAF. That's about $200. I would conclude that is most likely the problem before replacing. What are your symptoms? Maybe clean the MAF first. How many miles? Mine was 100K before MAF went bad and the engine sputtered at about 5K usually in third gear. I found a good price at Autohaus for under $200 shipped at the suggestion of a "Contributing Member" on this Board.

Here is a picture of the AOS from the top of the engine bay. Here is the bellows (accordian hose about 1.5cm to 2.0cm in diameter). It is located at the bottom of the AOS

I used a triple square 10mm from AutoZone. OEM brand. OEM Brand came in a package of three(3). Similar to these. PRESS HERE I cut it off half way off and used a wrench to turn.

The faceplate is interchangeable and will work fine. Make sure the black keys on the replacement plate are in good shape. Some have black paint missing in spots.

Very common to throw codes with cracked or leaking oil filler tube. It is best if replaced rather than taped. There are three tubes that connect from the trunk to the center front top of the enginge. The leak is usually between the 1st and 2nd joint, which is next to the AOS and under the air tubes and throttle body. Be careful if you attempt to remove and replace the 1st and 2nd tube because the 3rd tube is connected to the engine by a couple of thin plastic ears and they can break off. Ask me how I know:( Here is a link to a recent Forum Discussion. PRESS HERE

Lots of excellent information on this Board about battery replacement. I replaced my battery recently and went with the Diehard from Sears for $139. The Autozone Duralast was $169. Both batteries are made by Johnson Controls (vs. Exide) PepBoys sells the Bosch battery for just under $100. It is interesting to read the older threads when prices were 50% cheaper. My old battery which was an Interstate had a rear center vent tube and the new batteries at Sears and Autozone had a side tube vent. Both Sears and Autozone don't provide vent tube kits for their side vent batteries. Rear center vents tube adapters are female and slide over the vent hole on the battery and side vent tubes are male and insert into the vent hole. Group 49 batteries are preferred in colder climates where more cranking amps are essential. The Group 49 batteries are three inches longer than the Group 48 and weigh more. Group 47 is even lighter and will work if that is a concern. The battery tray has adjustments and will accomadate all three. Here is an excellent link on Renntech for more info. PRESS HERE Here is the link to the Sears DieHard SIte. PRESS HERE The battery is backed by 36-month free replacement and 100-month pro-rated limited warranty. Here is the link to the Autozone Duralast Site. PRESS HERE The battery has an 8 year warranty. Here is the link to Pep Boys SIte. PRESS HERE The battery is backed by 36-month free replacement and 96-month pro-rated limited warranty.

You mean like this? It is the same shelf only a different trim piece. I have both available. PM me if interested. I finally pulled them out of storage and they are different pieces. No trim needed. 9965522530101C (upper shelf - radio support) - $44 List 9965522430101C (lower shelf - CD tray) - $44 List.

Hallo, If the CEL is not blinking you are ok. When you get the code(s) report back and we'll see what the issue is.