kbrandsma

I went with the Pioneer AVIC D3 and used the install kit from Trieullionaire or Euro MotorSpeed on eBay. This AVIC D3 unit probably has been upgraded to a different model. Mine is a couple of years old. I got the iPod adapter as well. $1000+ Are you looking for a double din? or single din?

I'll be in Tacoma this week. PM me if you need help.

You mean like this? It is the same shelf only a different trim piece. I have both available. PM me if interested.

Welcome BTW :welcome:

No factory Turbo installed. Do you have aftermarket exhaust?

I have a problem with the front trunk light! the switch has power to and from it but no feed to the light bulb is ok. thanks. Here is a DIY HERE for front microswitch.

Can you post a photo of the Hazel p/n 788-30. I used the transom plug and it worked slick.

Some bumpers come with a center plug. This one did not. Which was ok with me because I wanted to add a third radiator.

+1 LN Plug. Make sure not to :wrench: over torque.

You can pull the passenger side wheel well back and find the emergency trunk cable immediately behind and on the under side of the light. It is a small metal cable with an eye hook at the end. Or perhaps it has already been routed behind the pop out towing plug on the front bumper. Here is a link for more info. PRESS HERE

Try Georgia Bumper. Here is the LINK

I was told that it is a 3M paint and not difficult to match. The shop did worn me on the difference from metal to a plastic bumper. However I was very pleased with result.

I found a 911 Bumper on eBay and kept communication with the company until they had one I was looking for. If I remember correctly they were located in Georgia. I'll go through my PayPal records and see if I can locate them. Here it is before it was painted and installed.

I replaced all three of my oil filler tubes. Even with the tranny removed (RMS Replacement) you can only get the first tube from the top. I removed the air tube that goes from the airbox near the MAF and the throttle body Here is a shot of the new tube leaving the rear trunk firewall. Noticed I reused the spring clip. I could not get a tool in there to use a worm clamp. The Sears clamp tool work great. Here are a couple of photos taken from down below. The first photo is with the hose removed and the 2nd photo is with the new hose installed. Here is a photo from the top side of a Boxster S. The RED A points toward the filler tube and the BLUE B marks the J tube. I would recommend replacing the J Tube at the same time replacing the AOS. It is also a good idea to clean your air tubes and the throttle body itself while everything is removed. If you remove the harness from the idle control valve (ICV) and remove the valve from the throttle body be careful not to damage or lose the gasket. You will need that gasket on reinstallation. BoxsterTaff is right about finding the vacuum hoses that are inserted in each side of rubber sleeves that connects the center tube to the intake manifolds. Also, his trick of starting the passenger side bolt on the third tube is ingenious and then nipping out a section of the ear so that it can slide under. That alone will save you a ton of time. I used a magnetic pickup tool to work the bolt in place and then using a free hand to get the bolt started and then finally a socket with a swivel extension. It's tough because you can't get a socket perfectly on top of it.

I replaced mine recently. Bumper cost $550 shipped and I had a local reputable shop prime and paint the bumper along with the hood, a pair of speed humps and the small rectangle on top of the spoiler for another $500. While the bumper was off I also cleaned theradiators and buffed/shined air scoops. Before AFTER

I added the Griot's Italian air horns last summer. Their is no problem what so ever. I left my OEM horns installed and really like it. If I touch the horn with a quick tap you get a quick response from the stock horns. If you lay on the horns a split second longer you get both. The sound is much better and people know you are there. The photo below is the Italian Horn installed right above my 3rd radiator and below the latch.

You should also check your "J" tube for signs of oil entering the throttle body to determine AOS failure. You can also check for white smoke at start-up. The oil filler tube leaks can also be a sign of the oil separator failure or maybe going out. When the AOS starts to fail it sucks the oil filler tube(s) almost flat. That closing/opening eventually can cause a hole in the filler tube. It did in my case. Good luck!

Here is a link to a DIY on the 996. Should be the same in your case. Link HERE

I looking at purchasing a 2006 Cayenne S with the following VIN # WP1AB29PX6LA66345 Can anyone tell me the Option Codes that came with this vehicle? Thanks in advance! :thankyou:

That is one clean engine if I may say so. Hey, thanks! I followed Orient Express's lead. Concentrate of SImple Green and water from garden hose worked well in my case! Here is a link for more info: PRESS HERE

Sometimes when working in the battery area I have left a tool on the cowling under the hood. When I closed the front trunk it closed relunctantly and on re-opening was very difficult. Is one side of the front trunk lid (close to the windshield) higher than the other? If so you might try placing a towel down on the lid and gently push down on the high spot and see if it doesn't open or assume your latch is working (open) and put a hard plastic upholstery tool near the latch and pry up. Good luck.

Check the two (2) circled items in the photo below.

Here is a shot. Not sure if it will help.

I recently changed my change over valve and accessed it from inside the cabin. You have to remove keys from ignition, disconnect negative lead to the battery and remove the passenger seat, then rear carpet covering then the access aluminum panel. You then remove serpintine belt and then alternator. The change over valve is directly behind the alternator. To get the alternator out you also have to put the top in service position and open up main engine bay to gain access to the main electrical leads to disconnect from alternator. It wasn't difficult but a lot of work. I would do all over again by removing the fuel intake manifold. You will need to remove the throttle assembly (tube bewteen manifolds that connects the throttle body). You can remove the six bolts (M6 x 16) to the intake manifold in any order, but on re-assembly you should reconnect the manifold and bolts in the sequence below to 7 ft.lbs torque. The other reason I would approach this way as it allows to better inspect vacuum hoses. You can also give the throttle body a good cleaning. One reason why I went from behind the passenger seat was to also replace my serpentine belt. Good luck! Keep us updated!