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Jon996

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Everything posted by Jon996

  1. Jon996
    easy question for someone (other than me, anyway . . .) Is cylinder 6 on the driver's side or the passenger side. thanks!
  2. Jon996
    Still tracking down oil consumption. Is is even feasible to replace the valve guides? Any estimate of the total cost? Thanks again all! 2003 996 3.6
  3. Jon996
    Ah, it sounds like your roads are much akin to the roads here in Minnesota! I have little to contribute to the above, other than you might consider looking for discussions on tire (tyre?) pressure. I had the same feeling when I purchased my car, and reduced tire pressure a little (32Front, 40 rear). Surprisingly, this was also a recommendation from my dealer, and was even OK'd by the PCA.org team. There was quite an improvement. There was more improvement when I replaced the tires with new ones, either just the extra rubber or the new brand (Michelin Pilot Sport 2) made an improvement. The expensive last approach is to consider different shocks like PSS10s. I did this last, mainly for handling and control over ride height, but the ride seems much less jarring.
  4. Jon996
    Nice look! I am really starting to like dark rims . . . Hopefull, the new rims/tires were set up with very close to the same rolling radius as the 18", so diameter should not an issue. It might just be the photo, but do you know if the offsets were OK--just seems like they are out a little, but again, that might just be the photo. FYI, I went with PSS10s, and lowered it about 1.5" front and 1" rear, or to 25.5" measured at the top of each wheel well. No problems.
  5. Jon996
    Hi all! The CPO on my 2003 runs out in August. I am not planning on an extended warranty. I will go in for my 45K checkup, but wondered what extra you think I should have looked at. My dealer is by-the-book, so nothing comes free. Car is running really smooth. To date: New clutch at 42K (RMS looked fine). Oil consumption has always been at the high-end, but not enough for Porsche to take action. (I paid for compression and leakdown [only 2% avg, by the way]). We did change the AOS a while ago. My thoughts: Pay for new plugs and have them borescope the cylinders. [regarding oil consumption] Might need new brake pads. [There, I spelled it right for the first time!] Other items to check before coverage runs out? Thanks!
  6. Jon996
    Me too--surprised me the first time. Chances are it is oil mixed with condensate caused by either short trips and/or cool temps. Mine goes away every long drive as well as all summer. Regarding a PPI, I think everyone recommends it.
  7. Jon996
    So all, are there some technical recommendations to check if you are on the high-end of oil consumption? So far I have seen the following being recommended: AOS check or replacement Compression test Leak-down test What would you recommend next if you pass all of these (and replace the AOS)? Perhaps change plugs and have the cylinders borescoped at the same time? How do you check the valve guide seals? Thanks :renntech:
  8. Jon996
    I have to admit, I had both of these tests done (at my expense) and my car passed both with really good results. Porsche tolerates a lot of oil consumption before covering under warranty.
  9. Jon996
    Greetings from Stillwater, MN! I actually do drive my 2003 C4S all winter. I spoke to the team at Tirerack for advice, and went with Blizzaks, which typically get great reviews. These were not available in the widths for the C4S rear tires, so I went with a new set of wheels for winter too. I went 18X8 in the front and 18X9.5 for the rear. As a lifetime MN resident, I can confirm that wider is NOT better for snow. This was two seasons ago, so there might be more options in sizing now. With the right tires the car is just great in the winter. Very secure feeling, and the best (most even) heating system I have had yet. Great seat-heaters too! You might consider a clear-bra to protect from the sand and salt they use so much.
  10. Jon996
    To the original poster--I am not far off of your oil consumption results. Since Porsche won't do anything (I am even under warranty!) threads like this are helpful. I am at 44K. So far I have done compression and leak-down tests as well as a new AOS. After reading a lot of threads and polls, it just seems that some burn oil and some don't, and it might just be QC at the factory.
  11. Jon996
    911 to general population, 996 C4S to the Porsche knowledgeable
  12. Jon996
    Funny, after having my car for 2 years I just noticed that there is a rubber (or black plastic) border around the driver's rear view mirror but not the passengers RVM. It might be because of the self-dimming mirror option (P10; self-driving inner and driver's RVM) or I might just be missing something. So, if there is a rubber border around the passenger mirror, could I please have some help with the number? (2003 996 C4S) thanks again, Jon
  13. Jon996
    Wouldn't the clutch would go bad slowly like it would get worst and worst slowly, not like from running really solid to bad on one shift? Clutch pedal did not feel the same after it sliding. Could it be something else? Someone told me it could be the pressure plate since I went wider wheels and better tires from 8" to 11.5" on the rears 285 tires to 305 and have high mileage. Just want to make sure before I drop the tranny this Sunday. Thanks! Actually, I just had my clutch replaced this year, at about 41K (I am second owner). I also thought it would go downhill slowly, but instead it went downhill REALLY fast. One day it felt OK and the next it was slipping really bad. Essentially limped back to the dealer. At 41K my flywheel was OK so just clutch parts and labor, in my case about $1370. On the bright side, wow, does a new clutch feel nice!!
  14. Jon996
    The Turin looks really nice. I bought a really nice low profile at Sears. Kind of surprised when i saw it there. Link
  15. Jon996
    Thanks for asking! Still working on it, but it is slow. With every tweek, the dealer needs to do an official oil check, which means drop the car off for a day while it cools, pick it up, arrange my schedule so that I can return at 600 miles, then leave it a day so it cools to recheck, then the service manager calls the regional Porsche rep. etc etc. My history mimics yours--consumption went up after my first winter with the car, and has stayed at the high level. When it warms a little around here I really want to try 5W 50 Castrol (can't get 5W 50 Mobil).
  16. Jon996
    OK, I'll take a wild guess! Looking at the shape, I think you are holding them upside down, so the slots would be at the bottom. If this is the case, maybe they would let the initial condensate from a cold engine drip off rather than collect on the lip like with mine. OK, I said it was a guess . . . :D
  17. Jon996
    Just an additional confirmation. I was kind of freaked when I saw this first too. Try to take a long drive or two and it essentially takes care of itself. (BTW, Mobil 1 0W40 here too)
  18. Jon996
    Actually, my C4S (manual) picked up a whining noise this summer. The mechanics at my dealer quickly identified it as two of the idler pulleys on the engine. Went away immediately and a pretty simple fix. Just a thought . . .
  19. Jon996
    oops . . . Mobil1 0W40 About 1 qt per 600-700 miles. Used to be about 1 qt per 1500 miles. Changed over the winter. Jon - What did you find out? Well, thanks for asking! Actually, I am getting kind of tired of looking. . . So far, had: Great leakdown results. Great compression test results. Changed AOS Boroscope to check valve seals Next stop: boroscope cylinders when I change plugs in a few months Also, just for fun, might simply change to Castrol Syntec 5W-50. Nothing to lose. 42K miles so far, seems to run great, no smoke . . . Will report back again down the road a bit.
  20. Jon996
    Another winter driver here in MN. I do shudder a little when I see the salt trucks out. This year I changed mufflers in my home garage, so had a chance to look carefully at the bottom of the car. All the main components looked fine. However, the nuts on things like the muffler clamps, etc., were pretty rusty. I went with Bilizzaks and they are just great. All I need to do is keep track of the amount of snow expected for ground clearance. Just another interesting point--I have had a lot of cars, but never had such a refined heating system. Really good at maintaining a consistent temp with no drafts. Also the fastest seat heaters I have had yet!
  21. Jon996
    Hi! Not an expert, but I do have PSS10s and this does not sound at all like mine. How much drop do you think they went for? Perhaps you are hitting the stops. Just a guess. Yeah, i originally thought that since i couldn't fit my finger in between the tire and fender, so I had them raised .5" and can now fit a finger between the tire and fender with 26" tall tires. The ride did get better but the bounce is still there. When I got the car, they were set on full stiff (past 10 where the dial won't turn anymore), i've heard this can damage them?? Hmm. I had a question a while back and had a nice chat with the team at Billstein. Took just a couple of emails to get a real technical expert. To "zero" the settings, it turns out you actually tighten them all the way and then just back off one click. This is "10." The clicks are pretty close, but not sure that full stiff would have damaged them. Worth a call to the experts I guess. Isn't it 10 is softest and 1 is stiffest? It is the case for PSS9 9=soft clockwise, 1=stiff counterclockwise. For some reason they changed the order for the PSS10s. You are correct, however, that clockwise is stiffer in both cases. The screw we are turning is contacting a rod that in turn closes a needle valve deeper in the shock.
  22. Jon996
    Hi! Not an expert, but I do have PSS10s and this does not sound at all like mine. How much drop do you think they went for? Perhaps you are hitting the stops. Just a guess. Yeah, i originally thought that since i couldn't fit my finger in between the tire and fender, so I had them raised .5" and can now fit a finger between the tire and fender with 26" tall tires. The ride did get better but the bounce is still there. When I got the car, they were set on full stiff (past 10 where the dial won't turn anymore), i've heard this can damage them?? Hmm. I had a question a while back and had a nice chat with the team at Billstein. Took just a couple of emails to get a real technical expert. To "zero" the settings, it turns out you actually tighten them all the way and then just back off one click. This is "10." The clicks are pretty close, but not sure that full stiff would have damaged them. Worth a call to the experts I guess.
  23. Jon996
    Hi! Not an expert, but I do have PSS10s and this does not sound at all like mine. How much drop do you think they went for? Perhaps you are hitting the stops. Just a guess.
  24. Jon996
    Thanks all--think I will just jack it up onto some 2x10s and take the traditional approach. . .
  25. Jon996
    OK, I guess you are right. However, it is the cleanest method I have ever used--no pans, drips down my arm, etc.. Just a tube down the dipstick tube. For me I will need to jack the car up just to access the bottom too. I do agree that standard approach is needed on occasion, but was thinking of this more if I want to do a change of weights for the seasons.
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