Costa

According to the Manual ('04 C2 etc) only the drivers side window will "One Touch" Open and Close. The passenger side window will only "One Touch" open but not close - not sure why this is though??? My C2's windows work as stated above.

Hi Aurthur, I had the Porsche Short Shift Kit installed a few months ago and I did notice (In my case anyway) that reverse is slightly more notchy to select (especialy when the gearbox is cold) compared to the other gears - otherwise it is no real drama to select reverse. I'd say that it just requires a minor adjustment. Your interior looks great - I really like the Aluminium touch on the instrument surround. - You just need an Aluminium Dead pedal for a RHS vehicle - I have not seen anyone selling these though - :angry:

Mark, As far as cleaning debris in the intakes goes...I tried the hose and water trick, but I found that the debris was harder to remove when wet and it tended to collect right at the rearward bottom corners, which was the most difficult part to clean. I ended up using a household vacuum cleaner with a hose/nozzle attachment which fits between the openings in my front bumper. This works a treat and if the debris is dry, the vacuum cleaner picks everything up. I normally vacuum the intakes before I wash my car and then give the radiators a quick gentle once-over with some water spray from the garden hose to remove any other dust etc if required.

I wonder where he got the idea for the red strip across the rear :thumbup:

Don, I thought it was a neat idea too, until I had to purchase 2 new tail light wiring looms $$$ :P so that I could obtain just 2 extra Brake/Tail combo connectors for the lamps. I have also noted that when the fog light assembly is illuminated, it provides extra wide angle illumination as the lens wraps around the rear and side of the body slightly. I found this to be beneficial, especially when on the brakes as any other car off to the rear and in an adjacent lane will notice the brakes as well - ie keep away from the rear of my P-Car :D

On my 'Downunder' RHD 996 the Fog light is in the RHS position and no bulb in the left. I assume they run the wiring to both sides and enable the corresponding fog lamp for corresponding LHD or RHD versions. As I live in a region where there is never any fog (just many sunny days), I decided to modify my fog lights by cutting off the fog lamp connector on both sides and connecting an extra Brake/Tail lamp connector on both sides to the existing Brake/Tail lamp wiring. This extra Brake/Tail lamp connector is then just plugged into the fog light position. It now gives thae car an extra wide tail light as well as a more noticeable brake light setup. Obviously only useful/legal if you do not use your rear fog lights!

Paul, Sorry for the misunderstanding but the PSE and the Bypass pipes are two different items. The PSE looks like a normal 996 muffler with a vacuum operated valve which effectively bypasses/or not PART of the muffler's internals - note that it does not bypass the whole muffler as such just some sections of its internal chambers. This gives a noisier exhaust without being way over the top. The bypass pipes (eg. fabspeed) are just a bit of bent tubing with an exhaust tip stuck on. These are fitted just after the cats where the normal mufflers connect to. The mufflers are not utilised and are infact removed when using this setup. This gives you an effective (incl. the cats of course) straight thru' exhaust which is very loud and would probably fail noise limits set at most tracks. Now the PSE is fairly tame below 3K rpms but at say 5K+ rpms it is quite loud but I'm not sure of its actual sound level as such but it is less than the bypass pipes but louder than a GT3's exhaust setup.

From what I have read on other boards etc... the GT3 is louder than the stock 996/muffler combination. But a stock 996 with the PSE is louder than a GT3 - Don't forget that a (stock) roadgoing GT3 still meets noise regs. The Bypass pipes are effectively a car with no mufflers ie straight through exhaust directly from the headers (note that the cats are still in place and probably do muffle the sound ever so slightly) A 996 with bypass pipes at WOT sounds like a full on race car ie Very Loud.

If I remember correctly I paid 1800 Euros which also included the shipping cost - Gert had a special on the X74 kit back in Oct/Nov. It dropped the vehicle about 30 - 40mm so now it has similar height to a GT3. With a full tank of fuel, the distance between the fender lip and level ground is 640mm when measured through the front axle centre. No real issues with speed humps etc - unless they have steep approach angles. The front lip on my GT3 aerokit tends to scrape slightly every now and then on driveways so you just have to be a little careful when entering/exiting them etc Approach at an angle an 90% of the time it is not an issue. The main reason I went for the X74 was that it was OEM Porsche and I did not really require the adjustability for my car, as it is mainly a street rather than a track car. One of the biggest improvements in handling can be had by lowering the CofG and I note that the car does seem to be glued around corners - So if you want an improvement in handling for your car just go for it... The car has no noticeable body roll and is firm but NOT harsh. I used to own a restored Bathurst Charger Six-Pack which was lowered etc and that car was firm as well but the ride was very harsh I assume that this has to be due to the compression and rebound damping set in the shocks - obviously the porsche setup is a lot more finely tuned for the vehicle. I cannot give you a comparison over stock as when my car was delivered - first thing that happened was that the suspension (ROW030) got pulled out and the X74 was installed - I have a complete set of ROW030 suspension sitting in a box in my garage if you are interested...! ROW030 drops the vehicle about 10-15mm from stock ride height and a slight increase in dampening rates. My wife thinks it is fine - She has told me it is bumpy over rough roads etc but on average to good roads she has no complaints so it cannot be that bad. Before I purchased the 996, I took a Nissan 350Z for a test drive and noted that it too had firm suspension but it did have a very harsh ride. Driving down a bumpy road at high speed I manged to get the rear wheels unloaded over one of the bumps and even had some wheelspin at the rear.

Arthur, I ordered my X74 suspension from Gert and no mention was made about RHD Vs LHD vehicles - only one version of the suspension is available as far as I am aware. X74 went straight in without a hitch....PSS9 should be the same. I have yet to hear anyone mention on the forums regarding different versions of PSS9 for RHD and LHD vehicles. Could be that the sales person does not want you to purchase from overseas etc...The X74 kit I purchased was approx $500 cheaper (delivered) than what my local dealer could offer it to me here in Adelaide.

I think this may be normal, as since new my car has experienced the same symptoms. I have travelled just over 3000Kms now and it is still there. I have checked for burning/leaking items etc. but none found. My brother in-law says it smells like POP-CORN cooking :lol:

Not blaming - just highlighting that there/have been quite a few good posts on the subject that you can search for... I have the PSE and its fine for cruising and when at WOT in a canyon etc it sounds excellent. You dont really need the switch setup at all because you can lightfoot it on the throttle and the car is reasonable quiet, just a little throatier than stock. One day I may try the bypass pipes but I think they will be wayyyy too loud. Louder than the shotgun Harley :D

Carlos. I note that you have posted the same message on a few other forums. Just do a bit more searching on the forums as there are quite a few posts on PSE and other similar exhausts so I won't go in-depth.... But basically... 1: PSE in quiet mode is exactly the same as stock (as far as I can tell) 2: PSE/Fabspeed Mufflers etc are not bypass pipes as such but the PSE does bypass part of the muffler just not all of it. It is a little louder down low but starts to get loud at around 3-4K RPM and is quite loud at around 6K+ RPM - especially if standing outside the vehicle when it travels past. 3: From what others have tended to say - The PSE, Fabspeed Mufflers, GHL etc all tend to all have approx. the same volume level but tend to sound slightly different from each other. 4: Bypass pipes (Fabspeeed) are a small right angled piece of tubing which connect straight to the catalytic converters which effectively removes the mufflers completely. These are very loud - basically straight exhaust from the headers onwards. At WOT the car sounds like a racecar would - a bit too loud for the street though - too much attention from the police etc. 5: All of the above systems will generally give you a tiny (real tiny) boost in HP (<5-10 HP) Porsche just do not claim any figures. Chipping your ECU just for the muffler change is not worthwhile unless you start changing headers, intakes, race-cats etc. even then results are usually minimal.

Stay Tuned.. Mod to be done in the next week or so Otherwise check out the other thread on the door opener switch

Kirby - It Looks Really Cool B) So now you WILL have to swap your switch out... :thumbup: I think I have taken the photo of the switch upside down! - Thats how it is going in my dash though... Part No: 996 613 119 10 A05 - Note the Matt Finish! - Targa Blind Switch Switch has illumination but No provision for a LED 'ON' indicator, but I ain't fussed about that.

There could be something amiss - but one thing to try is re-training of the windows. In your handbook there is a small paragraph relating to disconnection of your car's battery and the requirement to teach the windows where the closure stop/point is. Whenever the battery is disconnected, you must (after connecting the battery again) press the window(s) up control and wait until the window is all the way up and then release the switch.....press the up control once more to set the closed position for the window. The car then memorises this point as the window's home or fully closed position so it knows how far to drop the window when opening the relevant door etc - repeat for the other window. There is a similar procedure for the sunroof as well - do a search on this forum for sunroof and you will find the post.

Thanks for the info guys, I am doing the 'Garage Door' opener mod and the targa blind switch has an icon which sort of looks like a garage door [with a bit of imagination ;) ] and I want this on the dash rather than the center console. I had seen pics of the removal of the trim piece but was not clear on how to start the 'Prising Off' bit.... Thanks

Quick question on the dashboard switches and centre console removal... I note that some switches require a LHS or RHS version so that the icon on the switch is viewed correctly when mounted on the corresponding side of the console otherwise the icon will be upside down when mounted on the opposing side. Are all the switches available as a LHS or RHS version? I note that some switches are universal and would not require two versions. One of the switches I wish to obtain if available is the RHS version of the following: 996 613 119 10 A05 (Targa Roller Blind Switch) - not sure if this is available in both variants. Also a question on the removal of the centre switch panel (horse-shoe shaped) on a 03+ 996. Can this be removed just by carefully prising the edges with a butter knife etc.... Thanks

Just to place tyre wear into perspective My bike goes through a rear tyre every 5000 Km - about A$550 to replace front and rear as a set....Ouch!

Robyn, I am currently running 295's on my 18' rims (Sport Techno's) and this is the standard tyre size specified by Porsche for this rim. When the rims were purchased they came shod with Pirelli Assymetricos fitted. Plenty of tyre clearance (car is lowered as well) etc. Note that these rims are 11" rather than 10" and have a 63mm offset.

Carl FYI - I have fitted the X74 suspension to my vehicle and the measured height from the floor to the front fender lip was 650mm with a full tank of gas. My swaybars measured 20 + 24mm. I measured this after having travelled only 400Km with the suspension so it may have droped a little with a little more settling in. I'll measure it again tonight when I'm home as the car now has around 1800Km on the clock. Note that the X74 kit is lower than the standard 030 type option.

Thanks Poursha Merry Christmas to all and have a safe New Year.... :jump: Pat - 'Ghost Rider' over at the Rennlist forums has posted some pics of the orange cap install. Try this link...http://www.smiley.net/orangecap.htm I guess you have to ensure that the cap is very secure and it should not come loose. There are better ways of achieving the same thing (ie. Using a straight thru' piece of tubing without the bypass and then just blocking the top of the airbox opening etc - but the plug idea is quick easy and cheap)

I would say that the bypass tube and the so-called muffler in the airbox form a tuned pipe/chamber of sorts. As you advance your throttle you have sound waves which travel along the intake side and these in effect get "absorbed" by the tuned cavity ('Muffler Box' + Bypass pipe). The sound waves are caused by the rush of air and also by noise generated from within the motor travelling back out the intake side. I used to own a restored 1971 Australian 'Bathurst' Chrysler Charger which came equipped with 3x45mm dual throat Weber carburretors attached to an inline 4.3L six cylinder motor. At WOT the noise from the six intakes on the carbies would drown out the loud exhaust when sitting in the car - Music to my ears.... :D Don - Would it be possible for you to measure the outer lip diameter of those plugs - I may have to do some hunting in my shed for a suitable substitute here in Aus - Thanks

Thanks for the hint Karl Tool Pants - This pic does show you what crazy (dangerous) things some people come up with to work on their cars.... Reminds me once when I was at a car wrecking yard and there was a car up on a forklift raised just above head height with this guy removing the gearbox. The forklift looked like it was leaking hydraulic fluid everywhere and judging from its looks it probably had not been serviced for some time. Anyway this guy is under the car and he walks away to grab some tool and just as he walks back to the raised car I see the forklift loose its hydraulic pressure and its load drops to a height of a about 2 feet - It would have caused the guy a bit of a headache if he was still under the car -Ouch

Don I note that you suggest to jack the car at the rear where the cross member is to raise the rear to place jackstands underneath.. Is there a similar point towards the front of the vehicle in case you wanted to raise the whole car on jackstands etc Thanks Costas '04 SY C2