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cayenne69

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Everything posted by cayenne69

  1. I have a 2011 3.6 and I'm having coolant leak by the flenge Under the intake Passenger side. I ordered today the flenge part 95510623100 and gasket 95510643100. And soon I have to open the valve cover to change the PCV diaphragm in the air oïl separator. So let me know where you find the coolant leak in the valve cover or around the valve cover. Thanks
  2. Hello, I need input from you guy about C30 and A40 oil list. I have a V6 3.6L base Cayenne and as per user manual fall under C30 oil list. So I'm using as recommended Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. In my previous 04 V6 3.2L I was using M1 0w40 and had no issue. Basicly I'm looking for best oil for long a term protection and I have to consider pulling sometime 6,100lbs RV during summer time and here in Montreal, It's hot in summer and very cold in winter. Usually the oil temp in display is around 190F and can raise up to 253F for a short period of time when climbing hills with the trailer. Please give me your input and your own oil suggestion. Thanks
  3. Thanks Loren, you are always there for everyone... My cayenne is a 2011 base with cdr31. Do you need the vin number ? Thanks.
  4. Hello, I have the base CDR31 and the sound is very bad and I baught a set of 9 Bose speakers for only119$ free shipping. I would like to replace all spekers and I need the wiring diagram especially to connect the terminal wire (+ and -) because I think the connectors are not the same. When I removed the rear door trim for doorlock, I have seen an unconnected connector at tweeter level without any speaker. Even in the center console there is no speaker at all. On the top of that if I can fit an acive subwoofer, where I can find a line in ? Thanks for your help.
  5. Sorry, I dont know if I replied correctly on previous message, in the worst, you'll get another reply. Here is my vin number WP1AA2A23BLA05481 and I got from dealer parts number 95535140151 and 251 for rotor 350mm and pads 95835193930. I just want to know what is the biggest rotor part number I can fit without replacing caliper. Here is what I baught for front and rear wheels. See pics. Thanks again for your help
  6. Still confused about caliper size. I got some pics from the web and the caliper part number is always the same 7PP 615.123 and there is a code BM5 on black, silver and even red caliper. I'm trying to find if Cayenne 958 base, S and Turbo share the same caliper even if color is different. If yes what is the largest rotor we can fix 350, 360 or even 390mm and what is the perfect match with pads. Even at Porsche dealer, they have only info to match with black, silver or red caliper... But as I can see on attached pictures, it's the same part number and same code BM5 except the yellow one BCZ, I guess it's the one with ceramic composite... Thanks for your help
  7. May be this can help you. My garage have done both diffrential and Tranfercase oil change with gereric equivalent fluid. After couple week, I had wheel juddering in front left when turning and accelerating, feeling like a locked 4x4 or bad CV joint. I have read on Audi forum these car are limited slip differential and TC. I replaced all 3 component with original dealer fluids and everything was back to normal. My mechanical lost his bet with me. Original fluid supposed to have a special additive for the limited slip, and this eliminate the 4x4 effect and drive now like a real quattro. Cheap to try, do you want to bet ?
  8. Hello Folks, I need your help about a mystery question. I have a base cayenne 2011 and I think it's the same rotor size 350mm as my Q7 because they share the same part number. I want to know if I can fit the 360mm rotor same as the cayenne S or even better 390mm... if possible, as we can see on a website. So what exactly the biggest "kit" rotor + pads I can fit on my base model without replacing the caliper. If someone have made this, can also provide parts number. To make a long story short, I'm back with Porsche again... Had previously a 2004 cayenne from 2007-2013 and then a Q7 4.2 2013 to 2017 Thanks.
  9. I replaced both backup light, the fuse is good, but reverse light are not working and still get warning message. Do you have any diagram or where the switch is located. Thanks.
  10. Hello, I didn't had this issue, I purchased the pump from a Porsche dealer. It look like an octopus at first view, but each tube has a different size and quick connector, you cannot make a mistake. But you need to open both side even if you change only the driver side.
  11. I just turned 245,000 km, should I change atf and filter at that point. I hesitate, please let me know your opinion ?
  12. Hello, I have rough idle from 30 secs to 2 mins after start the car and longer when cold. So I suspect the coolant temperature sensor because coil packs and spark plugs are new on my v6 3.2 2004. I'm searching for this problem since I have the car... Do you have any tips to test the CTS with durametric or to replace the part. Thanks.
  13. I won it on ebay for 0,99$ and the seller was disapointed... So my cost is almost nothing, I want to know if I can expect beneficts like less restriction (few more hp) and a better sound (bit more agressive). I understand my 3.2L will not turn on a TT, but before doing this, just want to know if I will notice someting or I waste my time and I should keep it for future replacement. Bottom line, I will see or hear something better (even slight) or absolutely nothing. Like the brakes, transmission and many parts have different part number than the base model. Worth it or I waste my time ? Feel free to give your opinion, Thanks.
  14. Just a quick question, I have a base V6 110k miles with original exhaust system. I put the hand on a turbo s exhaust with about 10k miles. I want to know if it worth swap it ? Is the sound or restriction will be better ? Is it the same part number? Because I will need to make some mods for tail pipe angle and seal one opening because the base version have only one pipe from engine. Is there any kit or I want to know if I run a second pipe from the cat if this will reduce restriction or I waste my time and money? Thanks.
  15. I replaced the primary fuel pump at 113k. But I suggest to clean the fuel filter located on the top of the tank driver side under the back seat. I need to clean it 7-8 time in fresh gas to see the color of it... There where full of dirt and I suspect this reduced the life of the pump. You just need to buy the round seal to fix it back less than 10$.
  16. I also suggest to contribute, for me I saved many thousand of dollars and resolved a lot of problem on the renntech forum. You gonna get an excellent payback on your very small investment.
  17. I change the driver side fuel pump (primary) last week end. If you need to drive the car and avoid to pay a towing, just remove the #1 pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box. You need a torx 30 because the relay is located in the hidden part right next to the firewall. If your car starts and stall in less than 30 secs... Remove the key, remove the #1 fuel pump relay, then restart the car. If the car still running after 30 secs, like me your primary fuel pump is defect. By doing this, the computer think there is no fuel on left side and run the secondary pump !!! I drove the cayenne about 60 miles with the second pump to the dealer to buy the fuel pump, small pipe and 2 seal because you need to open both side under the seat. The fuel pump have many pipe attached to it with different size and lenght to avoid bad connection. Two pipes are running from left to right. The job is not easy but you need to do it when the tank is almost empty or use a manual pump like me. Do it outside, the smell is horrible and take a tylenol. Dont forget to clean the fuel filter on the top plate driver side, I never seen so much black dirt in a small filter... I clean it 8 times in fuel bowl and reinstall it. I suspect dirt filter may cause the pump problem. To remove the bolt under the seat use M10 and they are very very tight and this is probably the biggest job to do. Then have a beer and congratulate you for saving 1,000$. I have all the pdf very helpfull if you want it, let me know.
  18. Here is more information: If you look at the picture, you will see where is located the upper timing chain tensioner. The last picture is the defect part with the new box and you can see the part number (vw dealer number, same as touareg 3.2L). Check this picture and you will see the week free play of the tensioner (the chrome color). The brand new part is able to move like the green line, and the defect only the red line distance. This resolve about 95% of the problem, but I drove about 100,000 km with the defect tensioner and I probably damaged the timing chain or the lower tensioner. If you go to youtube, you can hear the noise (about a minute after startup) before I changed the part: Thanks I hope this will help you. Just let me know if it works on your engine. GUY
  19. I had the same problem since I own my 2004 3.2 V6... And one Renntech member (thanks him) find the problem and it take about 5-10 mins to fix it. Go to the vw dealer and order the upper hydrolic timing chain tensioner (same as the touareg 3.2). In canada I paid about 60$ but probably cheaper in usa. Make sure your car and engine is not moving and put the handbrake. If you face the car on your left side from the top of the engine put your hand just over the cat (make sure engine is cold) and you will touch but not see a 27mm hexagonal bolt. Take a ratchet and extension remove old tensioner (few drops of oil will drop) take the new one soak in it in oil and put it back slowly and tight it. At the first 3-4 engine restart you may hear knocking noice, probably the computer need to adjust. I made it this week, I can provide you the part number if you want. I have video showing exactly (before) the loud noise and at 4250 rpm and up engine running smoothly. It also fix the knocking during warmup. Even Porsche dealer where not able to find the problem, thanks to Renntech.
  20. Hello, Yesterday on a sunny day, I was driving on highway with a/c on auto and suddenly the ventilation turned off with a strange noise under the hood... Like a fan noise running at full rpm ? I tried to switch on manual, auto, fan speed, temperature and the ventilation did not worked. I switch to off for about 5 mins and retry and everything works now. I got the Durametric code 1336 CAN confort off. I'm scared because I'm going to south carolina in few weeks and It's very hot... I'm from Montreal and my body is not made to live without a/c? Thanks for helping me,
  21. Thanks for helping me, it's really appreciated. I sent this video to porsche dealer, spoke with many specialized people and NO one else was able to find the problem. What you told me is very logical, because when the engine is cold the upper tensioner is loose and knoking and when oil pressure slowly come into the hydrolic tensioner (probably defect and slow to react) the noise come off slowly. This also explain the misfire on cyl 1 and cyl 5 because the loose chain may disturb the timing a little bit during the warmup. I just want to know when I'll replace this part, if I need to secure the timing chain or I can safely just change the "bolt" without droping a guide or a rail in the bottom of the case. I probably need also to bleed the part with oil before replace it with a new o ring. Thank you very much, I was trying to resolve this since two year and I think I'm very close to tell you... You are the best.
  22. Thank you very much for the info. I'm not very familar to open the timing chain cover, if you or any members can share pictures, diagram or more tips to do job perfectly. :clapping:
  23. Changed coils pack, spark plug and air filter and it's not better. Got also a couple of misfire cy1 and cyl 5 on durametric. Using always Mobil1 0W40 as recommended for the V6. But I don't know why it's only at warmup and idle. When driving even cold the engine sounds like a new one. I have a clue for a vaccum leak related on something operating at warmup. When the engine is warm I can't hear anything. Thanks for helping me.
  24. Thanks for your reply, Please look at my video on Everyting is normal, but after 30 secs to about 4 minutes you think the engine will die right in front of you. If I start the car and drive right away we cant notice this sound and have no hesitation, except if I stop at a red light for example between the range of 30 secs to 4 minutes depending on temperature. Please dont hesitate to comment, Thanks, GUY
  25. I got the same problem last fall. Just changed the coil pack and sparkplug and in my case I never seen this display again.
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