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fbgh2o

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Everything posted by fbgh2o

  1. fbgh2o
    Mine looks like that before it is up to temperature. Cold oil will idle around 4.5 to 5 bar and until the engine is fully warm it wil read anywhere from 2 to 4 bar. Note that it takes a while for the oil to heat up. You car may show 180F on the coolant but the oil will not be fully hot at that point.
  2. fbgh2o
    Are you sure about the 35 profile? Most of the 285s that I have seen are 30 profile. That's what I run on my 996.
  3. fbgh2o
    While most of the attention and issues seem to focused on the sunroof, I had a similar issue. The headliner is tensioned across steel rods that fit into each side of the roof (if you push the headliner you can feel them). There is a plastic (IIRC) receptacle at each end that hold the rod in place. One of mine had popped out and would strike the roof at every bump. To put the rod back into the receptacle you have to remove a fair amount of the interior trim and maybe loosen the headliner, but it is simply a matter of time and persistence and not a lot of mechanical aptitude.
  4. fbgh2o
    I just had my driver's door repaired using paintless dent repair. Result was fantastic. With tiny bit of buffing you do not know that anything ever happened.
  5. fbgh2o
    Has the oil pressure warning light ever come on? This sounds a lot like my car at idle. When hot it will idle around 1.1 to 1.3 bars (with the AC off - turning on the AC will add about 150 to 200 rpm on the enginer and that's good for 0.2 bar of pressure). I have seen 1 bar and maybe just a bit under when the exteror temperature is 85F + and I have been pushing the car. You say at "long idle" it drops below 1 bar. How long? The 1999 996 do not have the best cooling system around and prolonged idling when hot will likely heat the oil significantly resulting in lower pressure. The pressure at 3000 rpm seems a bit low. Running 5w40 I am always at 3.8 to 4.2 bar when on the highway and always over 3 bar in city driving where the engine runs hotter. In addition to Logray's suggestion, I would also check the function of the oil pressure sender. It may also be starting to fail reslting in readings that are slightly off. It's a relatively low cost part and easy to replace.
  6. fbgh2o
    New fluid and a deliberate shifting method seemed to work for me. The problem existed only when the fluid was cold. Once warmed it was not an issue.
  7. fbgh2o
    Do not buy the LumAir Plus from Amazon. It is not a bladder, but rather a pillow and bladder. It does not fit behind the seat back. I will be going for plan B now.
  8. fbgh2o
    I just bought one of them for my sport seats. Bought on amazon.com and they are shipping it to Canada. I am anxious to install it, given that I regularly try to do long trips and may be headed to Florida from Ottawa next month.
  9. fbgh2o
    I would also suggest talking to AutoImport on Woodward who have done good work for me or RJ Motors in Kanata (who I have heard good things about, but have not used personally). You could also talk to Tapp Auto who knows 996s reasonably well.
  10. fbgh2o
    I hope that it's the oil cooler. Fingers crossed for you. Who services the car locally for you (I am in Ottawa too)?
  11. fbgh2o
    I would not suggest a 996 on that budget. They are great cars but major repairs will sink you unless you have a solid emergency fund or strong cash flow. Secondly, maintenance can be costly compared to other vehicles (e.g. 10L of premium synthetic oil per change).
  12. fbgh2o
    Sam Have you thought about the factory X73 sport suspension? I have the equivalent on my C4 and like it quite a bit. The positive it that it is factory, the drawback is that it is not adjustable.
  13. fbgh2o
    Here are some pictures of coolant that I extracted from the expansion tank with a baster and left to sit overnight. (the jar is roughly 2 1/2" in diameter) The black specs look like they could be plastic and are small (under 1mm) and thin. Whatever the residue is sank to the bottom of the jar and is not floating on the meniscus. It also concentrated in the middle (picture 2)and did not flow quickly when I tipped the jar (picture 3). I am going to have the coolant system drained and flushed and may have the water pump investigated as a precaution (I am wondering if it is failing). I am hoping that my top up may be the cause of the issue and that the WaterWetter has created the problem
  14. fbgh2o
    Good points. I have had success with WaterWetter in my 951 in the past. As for the filtered water, I only need about 100 ml and figured I could probably get away with it.
  15. fbgh2o
    I have found residue coating the inside of my new coolant tank - concentrated on the exposed surfaces near the cap. The residue is brown (with maybe a tinge of green). Additionally there seem to be a flakes of sediment in the coolant. The reason that I was checking is related to the fact that level was a bit low a month ago and I wanted to check if it had fallen after topping it up. It had, but the loss was maybe 200 ml. At the time there was no residue in the coolant tank. Key facts Car has run fine and generally quite cool (82C on highway) No CELs (checked with Durametric) A new expansion tank and cap were installed in April along with new OEM coolant When I topped it up, I used a bit with a bit of Waterwetter and filtered water (combined 300 ml max) - no residue at the time. No evidence of fluid eaks on the ground under the car Oil was changed in 3000 miles ago, level appears good (may have consumed 1/2l over the past 3000 miles) and colour is looks fine. Oil filler cap is clean as a whistle - no milkshake. I noticed a slight high pitched whine from the rear when I started the car today - definitely related to the accessory belt - thinking perhaps a failing WP? BTW the engine is a factory re-manufactured engine which was installed in 2008. It has about 35k miles on it. When I saw it, I thought intermix and my heart fell. Does this look like intermix? Could it be the Waterwetter that I used in the top up reacting with the coolant? I know intermix is fixable, but before I go there I would appreciate any other ideas. If it is intermix, am I correct that the sources are: (1) cracked head; (2) AOS; (3) spark plug tubes or coil packs; (4) oil cooler?
  16. fbgh2o
    I would suggest that it might be the pinion bearing (which is a sealed bearing known to wear) or planetary gears. I had a similar issue - speed sensitive whine from just behind the driver's seat (worse in gears 4 to 6).
  17. fbgh2o
    A few of thoughts. My car does seem to run a little hotter at highway speeds that at 45 mph. If you did the tank yourself, are you sure that the cooling system is fully bled? After chasing a cooling issue for months, I finally did the following: Cleaned radiators again New expansion tank (old one has a leak) New OEM expansion tank cap 160F thermostat and housing from LN Engineering. This combination has has a significant impact on operating temperature. While I have not seen 90F outisde, it was 61F today here and the car ran steady 176F - 181F compared to 194F to 200F during the winter when it was regularly 0F.
  18. fbgh2o
    Note the exhaust tips... :) Have done the muffler hack, replaced regular seats with sport seats.... and the X74 suspension arrives next week.
  19. fbgh2o
    Sorry it took a week. In finishing I accidentally burned through the clear coat on one and hard to refinish it.... Oops Here they are mounted (compare to the original)
  20. fbgh2o
    Given that I just spent a bunch of money on suspension – there is no way I could justify to the other half spending $300 on painted bumperettes from Bumperplugs. So I decided to give it a try as a DIY. Figured if it failed, then I would have to buy them :) Sorry, but these are less than attractive. Inputs: Sandpaper various grits (120 grit to 2000 grits) Flexible primer for bumpers Spray bomb Arena Red Metallic Clear Coat Sandable high-solids primer (not shown) Brake cleaner and rags (not shown) – used to clean surfaces after sanding Total Cost: $75 Total Time: 4 hours (over 3 days) Step 1 Remove Bumperettes (6mm? Hex socket or Allen key ) – takes 2 mins Clean bumperettes with soap and water (discover all kinds of little nicks in the surface and hope that primer fills them) Step 2 Sand to remove current, rubberized, pebbled finish. I started with 200 grit and quickly went to 120 grit as they are much harder that they look). This took quite some time (1 hour) to get finishes that I like and there was still pebbling in some locations. Left - not sanded; Right - sanded Up close sanded Step 3 Prime with flexible bumper primer (2 coats) Sand with 400 grit (note getting at the openings at the bottom is not easy) After priming this, I was not happy with the amount unevenness in the surface, so I decided to use the high-solids primer to fill in the imperfections (I had used it successfully in the past on bumpers). Step 4 Prime with high solids primers (3 coats) Sand with 400 grit Step 5 Apply two tops coats of Arena Red Metallic Step 6 Three coats of clear Step 7 (not completed yet) Wet sand with 2000 (1500 grit if required) to get rid of orange peel. Buff with compound and wax - this makes a big difference to finish quality. Step 8 Re-mount (when it's not snowing outside) Assessment Not as good as Bumperplugs, but good enough from 5 feet. Paint match looks pretty close Big question – durability. If they don't last, then I get to place an order in the future to Bumperplugs :)
  21. fbgh2o
    Painting Bumperettes Given that I just spent a bunch of money on suspension – there is no way I could justify to the other half spending $300 on painted bumperettes from Bumperplugs. So I decided to give it a try as a DIY. Figured if it failed, then I would have to buy them :) Sorry, but these are less than attractive. Inputs: Sandpaper various grits (120 grit to 2000 grits) Flexible primer for bumpers Spray bomb Arena Red Metallic Clear Coat Sandable high-solids primer (not shown) Brake cleaner a Author fbgh2o Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 02/13/2011 04:23 PM Updated 02/19/2011 01:59 PM
  22. fbgh2o
    Agree with all who are against it... The reality is that if you are putting these into an assembly for a halogen bulb that you will be doing everyone, including yourself a disservice. The lights will blind oncoming drivers, will be hard to aim correctly and while they appear to make things brighter close to your vehicle, their long-range performance (from a visibility perspective) is actually poorer.
  23. fbgh2o
    I have noticed during the last few trips around town (mix of highway and surface streets) that my car seems to be running 4C or 5C hotter (93 or 95C vs 90C at highway speeds) than it was during the summer (based on the climate control hack). Yet the ambient temperature is 20F to 30F cooler. Coming home tonight, the car warmed up to normal operating temperature and seemed good (up to 93C) for about 10mins in traffic 5 to 45 mph traffic. When I finally got out of traffic and into clean air and accelerated up to 65 to 70 mph, the temperature actually rose until it steadied at 95C. It then actually cooled slightly to 92C (with the high speed fans engaged and full heat on) when I exited the highway. Key facts Car is a 1999 C4 Both fans are operating on both high and low settings There is no evidence of a leak anywhere (expansion tank, water pump, visible hoses, passenger footwell for heater core) and the coolant level is normal. The expansion tank cap was replaced in August Did a full radiator clean in May and pulled everything apart tonight, nothing major is obstructing them Oil weight is 5W50 and pressure is good Climate control is in the auto mode set at 70F I think I get a whiff of coolant smell when the car starts or I shut off the automatic climate control systems. It is really faint disappears quickly and could just be paranoia I think this leaves a hairline crack in the expansion tank as the final element to be checked. I will pressure test tomorrow. Any other ideas? Many thanks.
  24. fbgh2o
    I would echo that. They are a first class organization. Have you talked to Jason at AutoImport here in Ottawa? They might be able to do it as well.
  25. fbgh2o
    I believe that 66Y designates the MY 2000 3.4L
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