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Solution! After a year of chasing this sound, I've finally made it go away on my car (2003 Boxster S with the original top). The sound was exactly as you describe: shirt button hitting on a hollow tube. It was really taking away from my enjoyment of the car. So much so, that I was avoiding driving it unless I could to so with the top down. I've attached two photos. The fist shows where to look. In my case it was on the passenger side (right side) under the spring loaded flap shown in the photo. The solution was loosening the torx screw, pushing down where shown, with one finger while tightening the torx screw with the other hand. The position of the head of the screw moved from one end of the slot, to more than half way toward the other end of the slot. Caveats: I have no idea what this spring loaded slotted thing is for. For me, it made the rattle go away, and has had no negative side effects. But that was only 24 hours ago.
Thanks for the write up. This is really helpful. Two observations. Most likely the shop did use a non OEM coolant tank, but it probably didn't come with a bleeder valve. They used the bleeder valve from your old tank and tried to do the right thing by replacing the o-rings. Most likely, they pulled some generic o-rings out, which seemed to be the right size and used those. I think this was ultimately the cause of the problem. By switching back to the OEM o-rings, you solved it. Another observation about this thread, in Tool Pant's earlier photo where he seems to have a simpler bleeder valve assy, I think he may have stopped one layer short of where you did, and thus, didn't encounter the o-rings. I'm going to pull my bleeder valve apart this afternoon to see if I can find the source of a faint hissing/seeping air sound that happens when my 2003 Boxster S is hot. (also have a little condensation)
I just remembered an additional step I performed. I have a set of tiny files, and I slid it into each set of points and filed them a little. At the time, it really felt like I was doing more damage than good, since I was sort of roughing up two surfaces that looked clean and smooth, and I didn't see how it was helping. The only reason I kept going was because I couldn't find anything else to change and I knew the switch wouldn't be any better if I didn't change something. My switch still seems to be working, but I only drive it on weekends so I haven't tested it that much (the motorcycle serves as transportation).
It wasn't easy to open. The switch is crimped closed and I had to use some fairly specialized pliers to un-crimp it. (I own a motorcycle shop, so I've got a lot of tools). Re-crimping it was hard too. I had to use a large socket and a large vice to hold it together while I re-crimped. I'd try un-plugging it and plugging it back in. I'm still thinking the odds are better than 50/50 that I didn't accomplish anything by opening it, and that the real fix was unplugging it and plugging it back in.
My litronics weren't turning on this weekend, and were just doing the flicker thing. I pulled the switch. I didn't feel like waiting a week for the part to come, so I just took the switch itself apart (not easy to do) and cleaned the contacts. I didn't find anything obviously wrong with it, but after putting it back in, I've turned the lights on and off about 30 times today and so far so good. I suppose it could have just been the contacts on the plug that needed to be scraped.
I drove to Oregon and back (from SF) over Thanksgiving. I averaged about 29.7 mpg in my 2003 Boxster S. I was averaging about 75 mph. Around town I get about 20 mpg. The whole trip was >1,000 miles (I stopped a few times for fuel. I don't like to run lower than 1/4 tank if I can help it.)
I have the same problem with the CDR-23 in my 2003 Boxster S. Earlier posts suggested a link to comfort settings, but my car doesn't have seat memory, so that's not it. The head unit just seems to jam up and then re-boot, losing all of its settings.
I suggest you to update to 2.08. It's not a time-consuming procedure and the 2.08 works much better than 2.02. It shouldn't be... except that I mounted mine inside the dash (behind the stereo) and didn't run the USB extension cable into the glove box. I'm planning to do it soon though.
Mine re-boots a lot too. Bugs me, since I have to re-set the bass, treble etc. every time it re-sets. I've got a 2003 Boxtser S. I've had the gateway 500 for about 6 months now. I'm still running 2.02. Good to know that the latest update doesn't solve it. I won't hurry to update it. The bypass is on the little black box that has the red and white RCA connectors on it.
I don't know if the 924 and 944 have similar amounts of valve to piston clearance, but I had a belt let go on a 1979 924, replaced the timing belt and put on at least another 10k miles without a problem before I sold it.
Even the original silver isn't painted all the way in. I've got 18" light weight carrera wheels on my 986. I was surprised when I went to wax the inner part of the wheel and discovered that it's plain gray paint, and not the nice silver metallic with clear coat, that the outer part of the wheel is painted with. Not as noticeable because it's close, but it would be a lot nicer if the whole thing were painted the same as the outer face.
I just installed a set of PS2's on my 2003 Boxster S with 18" wheels. They're very very quiet. I put 1,000 miles on them over Thanksgiving weekend. I've got the carrera lightweight wheels. The PS2's were about $1,300 including installation, tax, alignment, disposal of the old ones etc.