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zodman

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Everything posted by zodman

  1. I should add, I have the car at a height of 18 inches off the ground...Measured from floor to rear lift point in front of the rear tire. 17 in the front to account for the slope in the floor. If I removed the cross brace, I don't think the CV axles would be accommodating the removal, but there is enough space there to at least remove the transmission(with rear bumper, muffler removed). I do like the prospect of raising the rear a bit higher using the cross brace - after the engine is dropped in place, but then my recent alignment would become moot. Forgetting the alignment for a moment, after one raises the car sans engine, after removing the cross member, there maybe some difficulty putting the crossmember back in place even immediately after engine removal as the bolts holding it on each side (L=R )may spread some small amount Decisions decisions...
  2. I'm still debating dropping the engine, even if I don't pull it out from under the car - just to get access to the top of 1-3 cyl. Since the part 'Positive crankcase ventilation valve' maybe the main culprit of leak#2, I want to be able to get to that part and log its removal (and thus it's reinstallation) so I can begin the process of ordering all the parts.
  3. Update... After removing all the accoutrements leading to the meaning of life...err the question is it the RMS or the IMS, it is the RMS...with the cover plate of the IMS appearing to also be leaking. It was fairly clean despite the leak so things were just caught in time. I had one pesky flywheel bolt that had separation anxiety issues with the flywheel, but after sacrificing some red DNA from my knuckles (twice) on my flywheel, I then sourced a cheaply made chinese 17mm socket and some hammer time, the last bolt came off. The IMS cover plate appears to be the original one when the car was first made, though I haven't removed it yet. (Waiting for all the parts to be ordered and arrived) But the bearing cover is a Double Row bearing cover. ---- In prepping the car for the impending implant surgery, I took off the cover behind the seat and I was surprised to find another leak. This time it is in the area of the camshaft just off of the first fourth cylinder by the (US)driver seat. My first thought was to check the spark plug"tube area", but it was dry. My next thought was that maybe it was a head gasket leak - however - the head-gaskets on these cars are pretty robust. Potential D-Chunk? Nay...since the car is a 3.2 very unlikely. Cam cover leak? Possible, but I'd likely see more wet oil on the bottom area of the engine in that region and the sides where it attaches rather than the top of the engine There was more wet where the head gasket is rather than the cam cover. So it's a mystery I looked further into. An Oily substance is on top on the area around cyl 1 4 on the camshaft section. There appears to be a drain overflow hose from the power steering pump, but the pump doesn't appear to be missing any fluids from the last time I checked. The Throttle body was cleaned when I replaced the AOS which was at least 15k ago. The resonance tube looked grimy - not the dry dust but that moistened grime. I don't remember cleaning the resonance tube before, and after I removed it, it is looking more like the culprit of the leak as there was wet oil inside of it. OR a little known part known as the "Positive crankcase ventilation valve" is causing the new AOS to fail prematurely, leading to a leak in the region of the top of the camshaft in the area of the 1st 4th cyl. (Behind the [uS] drivers seat.) That's where I am in this project. I'm debating taking off the intake manifold for 1-3 4-6 but it seems there are more things to be aware of before tackling that - Though I know only 6 bolts hold it to the 4-6 heads. I'd like to remove it in order to clean everything in that region, to at least keep a more diligent eye on it in the near future in case it is a more significant oil leak, but I haven't found a good step-by-step DIY for removing the intake manifold just above cyl. 4-6 . If someone has a link for that, that would be most appreciated. z Edited note on which cylinders are involved.
  4. I'd agree with what JFP suggests, waiting until the bearing cover can be seen. I'm in the same boat with a 2001s and though I'm 99% sure it is a double row, I'll wait until I see it before getting a new bearing.
  5. Heck I'd buy a 2 post lift if I could be sure of the strength of the concrete floor beneath me. Even a scissor lift looks promising, however, the driveway leading into the garage is quite an incline and the garage floor itself is sloped more than my comfort level allows for a scissor lift to reside in the center of the floor...I'd know how to bring in a vehicle, but I'd be asking for trouble once others start driving into and out of the garage that can barely handle the open space now :eek: The MaxJax would be ideal, but again, I have no knowledge of the quality of the floor concrete to justify the cost of it. I have a similar quartet of Jackstands and a very similar floor jack....they're just are a bit intimidating at the last rungs of height, hence my question for the board. Sweet price on the H.F. tran jack. They are a bit more proud of the very same identical chinese made jack at Sears(.)com, asking 449 dollars. Seeing how it's 7.25 inches at it's minimum, adding the height of the trans at its highest point plus a few inches for spares (pivoting the degree of swivel tilt needed) should give me enough of a raw answer hopefully. Thanks for the input... Z
  6. Obviously I like the short answer, but I need the assurance in inches from floor to jack post on car to know I begun the journey of a thousand ft/lbs torque on the right path:)
  7. 2001S Boxster. 89k 6-Speed Manual Been away for a bit, had my own internal upgrades happening (surgery for an abdominal aortic aneurysm). Oil change was done at the same time I did my brakes and rotors and found the tell-tale spot between the trans and engine. No ferrous metal found in oil pump or oil filter, however I did find two tiny aluminum flakes in the oil pan, about the thickness of ten sheets of printer paper> a quarter of an inch long and tapered...kind of giving me the impression of a cast-off from the casting process. Also had a few small nubs of a material that reminded me not of the cover for a bearing, but an improperly set thickness of a gasket bead that tooled around the oil pan. The engine itself runs great, no odd noises one would expect from a pending IMS failure though I do lack a Durametric Tester. Thus, I suspect it's the RMS, but we know what it really means> RMS+ IMS+ Clutch+ Sparkplugs+ etc. etc. as it nearing the 90k zone. I've done quite a bit of work myself on the car, changing the rear struts, the AOS, Coolant Reserve tank, water pump, serp. belt and replacing the plastic top with a glass top. With only the fuel pump and tires done by outside vendors....But I'm not as bendy as I was right before my own 50k mark... My question is how high should I raise the car to remove the tranny so I can change the RMS and IMS and how high should I raise the car to remove the engine if it comes to that? Obviously, I'll need to remove the back bumper as well, but I just want to make sure I've got the car raised high enough to at least change out the RMS and IMS with the engine still in place, but knowing the safest jack stand height for an engine removal is good info to have. I've tried to locate info here and elsewhere on the web, but it's buried too deep. Thanks in advance... Z
  8. I have a torn rubber seal at the left rear lower toe arm http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30787 has anyone had to replace one before?
  9. Can the seal be replaced or does the whole toe arm need to be replaced? (seal cannot be replaced-entire rear control arm needs to be replaced if ball joint worn or rubber seal torn) Borrowed picture attached showing toe arm seal highlighted. 2001 boxster S (Left REAR Toe Arm) erm... referred to as the control arm link not toe arm Part number on damaged unit is 996 331 245 10 appears to be superseded by either part number 997 331 045 04 (M80) or 997 331 045 04 (M100) {source: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...331-045-04-M100 } ($118.00 M80 or $178.75 M100) Hopefully I can find the original at the scrap-yard, if anyone here in the SF Bay area upgraded their suspension and still has the original part please PM me and I would be very grateful.
  10. Sorry, you did not state above. Just jack the car up and remove the strut and spring assembly. Carefully hold the assembly and release the tension on the spring. Replace the strut and slightly compress to reassemble and install. Suspension pieces should always be replaced in (axle) pairs. So if you replace a spring or strut you should replace both. thanks Loren How hard is it? It is not too hard if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. You can get the strut and spring assembly out without removing the wheel carrier, which makes things easier. You: * have to loosen and remove the nuts on the rear strut mount at the top (you will have to move the black rubber like padding under the convertaible top cover to find the strut mount) * remove the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the lower control arm * disconnect the rear toe adjusting arm from the wheel carrier using a ball seperator tool * pull off any wires that are routed and secured along the back of the strut/damper assembly * I cannot remember if the stock rear strut has adjusting nuts to raise and lower (probably not) so use a spring compression tool to compress the spring to loosen it up some * take the top bolt on the drop link out of the wheel carrier where it passes through the bracket on the damper/strut * with some effort, and probably with a second pair of hands, you should be able to push the wheel carrier off the strut assembly and clear the bottom of it ( the lower control arm pivots up and down and does not have to be removed - this is good 'cause it can be hard to get off) thanks for your input, very much valued.
  11. Sorry, you did not state above. Just jack the car up and remove the strut and spring assembly. Carefully hold the assembly and release the tension on the spring. Replace the strut and slightly compress to reassemble and install. Suspension pieces should always be replaced in (axle) pairs. So if you replace a spring or strut you should replace both. thanks Loren
  12. Is a 2001 Boxster S, as stated above, it is the left rear strut. 986 333 051 20
  13. Hard to tell from the pics, but it could be axle grease. Check your CV boot, they have a tendency to crack open. If not, it should be easy enough to tell if it's brake fluid. clean the wet areas and give the brakes a few pumps, see if anything fresh comes out of the lines or caliper. I can't tell for sure what wheel we're looking at but if it's in the rear, you could be seeing oil blowback from a failed AOS or leaking valve cover. Hi Defiantly not grease. The leak is in the left (Drivers side/US) rear. AOS is on the other side and was replaced a few months ago. Am wondering if also it maybe a power steering leak. Trying to navigate the articles for similar problems via search can be frustrating. appears to be the shock leaking. i would delete this post but am unable. If you know how easy replacing a strut/shock is please reply to this thread instead: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30611 thanks z
  14. I appear to have a left rear strut leak, need to know how easy a DIY for replacing the Shock Absorber. Anyone here ever have one leak? TIA
  15. Hard to tell from the pics, but it could be axle grease. Check your CV boot, they have a tendency to crack open. If not, it should be easy enough to tell if it's brake fluid. clean the wet areas and give the brakes a few pumps, see if anything fresh comes out of the lines or caliper. I can't tell for sure what wheel we're looking at but if it's in the rear, you could be seeing oil blowback from a failed AOS or leaking valve cover. Hi Defiantly not grease. The leak is in the left (Drivers side/US) rear. AOS is on the other side and was replaced a few months ago. Am wondering if also it maybe a power steering leak. Trying to navigate the articles for similar problems via search can be frustrating.
  16. Discovered an odd spot for a leak to occur, doesn't appear to be motor oil, but could be brake fluid. anyone ever have a brake line fail? Or a leak in the area with the two pictures attached? TIA
  17. Below 1/4 tank...near the range when the add fuel light comes on. Fuel pump tends to burn out if the fuel level is too low. To my knowledge when the fuel pump goes...it's gone. It doesn't "hang-in-there" for a while. Only a pending fault code could show beforehand. Fuel smell in the exhaust just an educated guess, but I would think that the MAF maybe failing or is dirty. Reason being that the MAF isn't sending the proper sigs. to measure the air/fuel mixture. Hence...extra fuel blowing past. Cheap DIY test to buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean the MAF. Long as your in there, check the air filter and clean the inside of the throttle body with TB cleaner. Check the j-tube (or Y-tube if so equipped) for oil residue too. Do a search here for the MAF and the throttle body DIY instrux. And of course, as Loren recommends, do a fault code readout and check for pending faults. If you do buy a MAF, buy it at Sunset Imports not on e-bay...some peeps have been known to resell the used ones.
  18. Pedro has good DIY instrux...I agree with phillipj, its a good site to bookmark.
  19. Am not sure, but I would shop it around your area. Also, I wouldn't drive it at all if you are experiencing high temps, and fluid leaks. A course of action, con$idering your $ituiation: 1. New Water-pump, Gasket and Oil Cooler (& 2 OC O-Rings); new oil filter and crush ring; 160F Thermostat (made by LN Engineering) 2. Replace oil; Replace coolant. (Inspect the old oil to see if there are any :::gasp::: metal pieces in it and for color too) 3. Clean MAF and Throttle Body. (MAF cleaner & Throttle body cleaner spray cans.) 4. Check the J-tube (Or Y-tube) leading to your AOS for a thick presence of oil. if so, replace the AOS. (Careful removing them as they can be brittle with time.) #3 to rule out the rough running (though there is an known issue with the tiptronics), #2 use a (recommended) thicker sythn. oil. The objective of course is to keep the engine cool(er) hence the 160F thermostat and the thicker oil. If the above doesn't work, then get the leak down test, if you had the money, I'd get the car flat-bed towed to a shop for the leak-down test first to rule out the heads or an engine block crack. best-of-luck z
  20. Any smoke at start-up? Sometimes an RPM bounce can mean several different things, including the MAF. But it can also be a vacuum leak, a dirty throttle body, a bad AOS, or even a combo of all. When my fuel-pump went, it didn't start. It would turn over, but it wouldn't start. As what I've gathered here on the board, the fuel filters are pretty hardy. The cheapest route at the moment, would be to clean the MAF and the throttle body. If it clears up, but returns, replace the MAF. I replaced my AOS b4 any symptoms such as lots and lots of smoke appeared. Cleaned the throttle body and the MAF at the same time as well. Had no error codes to speak of, but the RPM bounce went away. You can DIY the MAF/Throttle Body/AOS yourself, but I would let the mech. do the Fuel Pump as it is located in the fuel tank. According to some info I have, a fuel pump will fail earlier if the fuel tank is ran too many times at a low level.
  21. For grins & giggles... How high do you need to lift the car on jack stands to get the engine out? Would like to save that info for future reference & reflection, if it ever calls for that. TIA z
  22. How to quickly tell if it is the ignition switch or the headlight switch: Turn the headlight switch to the on position, pull out the fog light- then hit the switch straight back in with the palm of your hand. If the lights then come on, it is the headlight switch. The DIY for replacing the headlight switch is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;p=14800& My original discovery for the HLS occurred when I was trying to remove the switch, and I accidentally "tapped" it, and lo-and-behold, the light came on. Buy the new one at Sunset Imports. Great guys, affordable price. z
  23. I just went thru a water pump issue myself on my 2001 S (76k). Ordered the new water pump, belt, and gasket from Sunset. After getting to the pump itself, the leak appeared to be coming from the longer screw thread which was finger loose. Sunset Imports - water-pump 197.12, gasket 5.45, belt 26.00 a dang good deal for oem parts. To err on the side of caution, I still replaced the waterpump. The old water-pump itself shown no-other signs of wear, but I'm not taking any chances otherwise. It is an easy DIY. In reading your tragedy, despite the "shop" I don't see how they could of mixed hoses, but the higher temps you mentioned and the rough-running are concerning. High temps and water-pump failure is an invite to heat the engine oil too thin which in turn can cause bad things to happen to the engine. Vedy-vedy bad things... If I were you, I would get the leak-down test, I would without a doubt-replace the water-pump, and very possibly replace the heat exchanger just for cheap insurance and peace of mind. I would also consider checking and or replacing the tranny fluid. I'd probably even would drain all the oil out too and replace it too. If it's been shocked with the high temps too long, I would run a thicker syth. oil than 0w40 too, and replace the thermostat with one that opens at 160F. btw-changing the fan belt for me first time on this car- took less than 20 minutes...Last time I took my car to a "porsche-shop" was for a fuel pump install, and yes, they even screwed that up. i.e., they twisted the float cable so an inaccurate fuel level was given, and left the speed/odom. at kilometers. But on the plus side they re-fixed it for free...too err is human, to overcharge is inhumane. n-e-ways thats my two-bits
  24. Summary of todays events..... Took the car back to the mechanic. (San Carlos German Motor Works) They fixed the fuel gauge issue, it was a pinched cable from the fuel pump interfering with the floater. As I've read before, it's easy to do when installing a fuel pump. They reset the 'puter to read miles, instead of kilometers. No charge.
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