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zodman

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Everything posted by zodman

  1. I should add, I have the car at a height of 18 inches off the ground...Measured from floor to rear lift point in front of the rear tire. 17 in the front to account for the slope in the floor. If I removed the cross brace, I don't think the CV axles would be accommodating the removal, but there is enough space there to at least remove the transmission(with rear bumper, muffler removed). I do like the prospect of raising the rear a bit higher using the cross brace - after the engine is dropped in place, but then my recent alignment would become moot. Forgetting the alignment for a moment, after
  2. I'm still debating dropping the engine, even if I don't pull it out from under the car - just to get access to the top of 1-3 cyl. Since the part 'Positive crankcase ventilation valve' maybe the main culprit of leak#2, I want to be able to get to that part and log its removal (and thus it's reinstallation) so I can begin the process of ordering all the parts.
  3. Update... After removing all the accoutrements leading to the meaning of life...err the question is it the RMS or the IMS, it is the RMS...with the cover plate of the IMS appearing to also be leaking. It was fairly clean despite the leak so things were just caught in time. I had one pesky flywheel bolt that had separation anxiety issues with the flywheel, but after sacrificing some red DNA from my knuckles (twice) on my flywheel, I then sourced a cheaply made chinese 17mm socket and some hammer time, the last bolt came off. The IMS cover plate appears to be the original one when the car was
  4. I'd agree with what JFP suggests, waiting until the bearing cover can be seen. I'm in the same boat with a 2001s and though I'm 99% sure it is a double row, I'll wait until I see it before getting a new bearing.
  5. Heck I'd buy a 2 post lift if I could be sure of the strength of the concrete floor beneath me. Even a scissor lift looks promising, however, the driveway leading into the garage is quite an incline and the garage floor itself is sloped more than my comfort level allows for a scissor lift to reside in the center of the floor...I'd know how to bring in a vehicle, but I'd be asking for trouble once others start driving into and out of the garage that can barely handle the open space now :eek: The MaxJax would be ideal, but again, I have no knowledge of the quality of the floor concrete to justi
  6. Obviously I like the short answer, but I need the assurance in inches from floor to jack post on car to know I begun the journey of a thousand ft/lbs torque on the right path:)
  7. 2001S Boxster. 89k 6-Speed Manual Been away for a bit, had my own internal upgrades happening (surgery for an abdominal aortic aneurysm). Oil change was done at the same time I did my brakes and rotors and found the tell-tale spot between the trans and engine. No ferrous metal found in oil pump or oil filter, however I did find two tiny aluminum flakes in the oil pan, about the thickness of ten sheets of printer paper> a quarter of an inch long and tapered...kind of giving me the impression of a cast-off from the casting process. Also had a few small nubs of a material that reminded me no
  8. I have a torn rubber seal at the left rear lower toe arm http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30787 has anyone had to replace one before?
  9. Can the seal be replaced or does the whole toe arm need to be replaced? (seal cannot be replaced-entire rear control arm needs to be replaced if ball joint worn or rubber seal torn) Borrowed picture attached showing toe arm seal highlighted. 2001 boxster S (Left REAR Toe Arm) erm... referred to as the control arm link not toe arm Part number on damaged unit is 996 331 245 10 appears to be superseded by either part number 997 331 045 04 (M80) or 997 331 045 04 (M100) {source: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...331-045-04-M100 } ($118.00 M80 or $178.75 M100) Hopefully I c
  10. Sorry, you did not state above. Just jack the car up and remove the strut and spring assembly. Carefully hold the assembly and release the tension on the spring. Replace the strut and slightly compress to reassemble and install. Suspension pieces should always be replaced in (axle) pairs. So if you replace a spring or strut you should replace both. thanks Loren How hard is it? It is not too hard if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. You can get the strut and spring assembly out without removing the wheel carrier, which makes things easier. You: * have to loosen and re
  11. Sorry, you did not state above. Just jack the car up and remove the strut and spring assembly. Carefully hold the assembly and release the tension on the spring. Replace the strut and slightly compress to reassemble and install. Suspension pieces should always be replaced in (axle) pairs. So if you replace a spring or strut you should replace both. thanks Loren
  12. Is a 2001 Boxster S, as stated above, it is the left rear strut. 986 333 051 20
  13. Hard to tell from the pics, but it could be axle grease. Check your CV boot, they have a tendency to crack open. If not, it should be easy enough to tell if it's brake fluid. clean the wet areas and give the brakes a few pumps, see if anything fresh comes out of the lines or caliper. I can't tell for sure what wheel we're looking at but if it's in the rear, you could be seeing oil blowback from a failed AOS or leaking valve cover. Hi Defiantly not grease. The leak is in the left (Drivers side/US) rear. AOS is on the other side and was replaced a few months ago. Am wondering if a
  14. I appear to have a left rear strut leak, need to know how easy a DIY for replacing the Shock Absorber. Anyone here ever have one leak? TIA
  15. Hard to tell from the pics, but it could be axle grease. Check your CV boot, they have a tendency to crack open. If not, it should be easy enough to tell if it's brake fluid. clean the wet areas and give the brakes a few pumps, see if anything fresh comes out of the lines or caliper. I can't tell for sure what wheel we're looking at but if it's in the rear, you could be seeing oil blowback from a failed AOS or leaking valve cover. Hi Defiantly not grease. The leak is in the left (Drivers side/US) rear. AOS is on the other side and was replaced a few months ago. Am wondering if a
  16. Discovered an odd spot for a leak to occur, doesn't appear to be motor oil, but could be brake fluid. anyone ever have a brake line fail? Or a leak in the area with the two pictures attached? TIA
  17. Below 1/4 tank...near the range when the add fuel light comes on. Fuel pump tends to burn out if the fuel level is too low. To my knowledge when the fuel pump goes...it's gone. It doesn't "hang-in-there" for a while. Only a pending fault code could show beforehand. Fuel smell in the exhaust just an educated guess, but I would think that the MAF maybe failing or is dirty. Reason being that the MAF isn't sending the proper sigs. to measure the air/fuel mixture. Hence...extra fuel blowing past. Cheap DIY test to buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean the MAF. Long as your in there, check the air
  18. Pedro has good DIY instrux...I agree with phillipj, its a good site to bookmark.
  19. Am not sure, but I would shop it around your area. Also, I wouldn't drive it at all if you are experiencing high temps, and fluid leaks. A course of action, con$idering your $ituiation: 1. New Water-pump, Gasket and Oil Cooler (& 2 OC O-Rings); new oil filter and crush ring; 160F Thermostat (made by LN Engineering) 2. Replace oil; Replace coolant. (Inspect the old oil to see if there are any :::gasp::: metal pieces in it and for color too) 3. Clean MAF and Throttle Body. (MAF cleaner & Throttle body cleaner spray cans.) 4. Check the J-tube (Or Y-tube) leading to your AOS for
  20. Any smoke at start-up? Sometimes an RPM bounce can mean several different things, including the MAF. But it can also be a vacuum leak, a dirty throttle body, a bad AOS, or even a combo of all. When my fuel-pump went, it didn't start. It would turn over, but it wouldn't start. As what I've gathered here on the board, the fuel filters are pretty hardy. The cheapest route at the moment, would be to clean the MAF and the throttle body. If it clears up, but returns, replace the MAF. I replaced my AOS b4 any symptoms such as lots and lots of smoke appeared. Cleaned the throttle body and the
  21. For grins & giggles... How high do you need to lift the car on jack stands to get the engine out? Would like to save that info for future reference & reflection, if it ever calls for that. TIA z
  22. How to quickly tell if it is the ignition switch or the headlight switch: Turn the headlight switch to the on position, pull out the fog light- then hit the switch straight back in with the palm of your hand. If the lights then come on, it is the headlight switch. The DIY for replacing the headlight switch is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;p=14800& My original discovery for the HLS occurred when I was trying to remove the switch, and I accidentally "tapped" it, and lo-and-behold, the light came on. Buy the new one at Sunset Imports. Great guys, affordable p
  23. I just went thru a water pump issue myself on my 2001 S (76k). Ordered the new water pump, belt, and gasket from Sunset. After getting to the pump itself, the leak appeared to be coming from the longer screw thread which was finger loose. Sunset Imports - water-pump 197.12, gasket 5.45, belt 26.00 a dang good deal for oem parts. To err on the side of caution, I still replaced the waterpump. The old water-pump itself shown no-other signs of wear, but I'm not taking any chances otherwise. It is an easy DIY. In reading your tragedy, despite the "shop" I don't see how they could of mixed h
  24. Summary of todays events..... Took the car back to the mechanic. (San Carlos German Motor Works) They fixed the fuel gauge issue, it was a pinched cable from the fuel pump interfering with the floater. As I've read before, it's easy to do when installing a fuel pump. They reset the 'puter to read miles, instead of kilometers. No charge.
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