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KarlS

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Everything posted by KarlS

  1. My understanding is that the CDR-23 now talks to the alarm system via the MOST bus (and a gateway to CAN). The alarm automatically recognizes and enables the radio when it's there, thus no need for codes. It also recognizes when the CDR-23 isn't there and throws an alert if it isn't. This is why you can't replace the CDR-23 with an older CDR-220 in the 2003 models, even though most of the connections are the same. Karl
  2. Mike, The install looks very good, congratulations. One thing you may want to consider is rolling up the loose ends of the shoulder harness and tie wrapping them to the shoulder belt. This will keep them from flapping around on the track. This can be somewhat distracting when a loose end come flapping up around your seat back. Probably not necessary for auto-x but I'd advise it for road course work. Karl
  3. A lot of people in my local PCA region have picked up the aluminum jack from Harbor Frieght. It's under $200 and they have been happy with them. I got mine from CostCo for around $250 or so, if I remember and I've been happy with it as well. I wouldn't recommend spending the $500-750 some other places charge for aluminum "racing" jacks. A block of hardwood and a hockey puck placed on the jack plate will work, you don't need to buy a special pad. Just make sure whatever you use is lined up on the jacking point under the car and you'll be ok. Karl
  4. Yes, it is okay to keep the bleeder valve open when driving, esp. when on the track. The Cup cars keep the valve open all the time. Karl
  5. 50:50 water to anti-freeze mix should generally work unless you leave somewhere very cold. Karl
  6. There is a good thread on this a little way down the forum. The short answer is Porsche sells and recommends two wheel spacer combinations. The first combo is four 5 mm spacers on all four wheels. This is sold as a kit that includes longer wheel bolts and longer wheels locks. 1999-2001 GT3's use these spacers. The second option is 5 mm spacers on the front and 17 mm spacers on the rear. If you go this route, you'll need to get some custom sized lug bolts made up for the rear spacers. Karl
  7. Contact Eric. He did a group buy on the gauge rings in Artic Silver a couple of months ago but the manufacturer has had some significant delays, so some people may have dropped out of the group buy and you can grab their order. Karl
  8. Mike, There is a guy who advertises in either Pano or Excellence named Ralph Boothe. He makes and sells custom spacers and lug bolts. He can make you any size you need. When I got my Fikse's, they were 2mm deeper than the stock wheels on my 996 and I ran the GT3 spacers, so I had Ralph make me up a set of 7mm longer lugs (52mm). If you get the magazines, just look for Boothe in the advertisers index. If not, I can find it when I get home tonight. Karl
  9. It's looking like the Pirelli's may be here in the US before the cars are released from port <_< Karl
  10. Mike, Check with Gert and see if he provides new drop links with the GT3 bars. If not, you will need to get them from The Racer's Group or someplace similar. I don't think the GT3 bars will work with the stock drop links, at least they didn't on my 99 C2. The biggest advantage to the GT3 bars is not that they are that much stiffer but that they are adjustable. On my Cup car we generally start at full stiff in the front and full soft in the back and then adjust one end or the other depending on the track conditions and how the car is handling. It's an easy way to dial-in oversteer or dial-out understeer for those auto-x events, too. Karl
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