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Hobbes

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Everything posted by Hobbes

  1. Hobbes
    I know this thread has been quiet for some time, but I'm hoping to get a heartbeat again with some questions I have on this conversion. I am getting ready to embark on this 996 3.4 to 996 3.6 journey. I have a 2000 996 C2 3.4. I just purchased a 2002 3.6 complete engine with DME/ECU (7.8), wiring harness from ECU back to the engine, immobilizer, instrument cluster and ignition key head all from the same car. I have some questions: After doing some reading on this thread, I have come to the conclusion that I am going to need a little rewiring even with the electronics I am buying. Can someone confirm this please? Will I need to upgrade my ABS controller and HVAC controller to work properly (and not throw codes on durametric)? Given the list of stuff I am purchasing, will I have an issue with the variocam + not working properly? From my understanding, the issues are mostly when dealing with intergrating an earlier version of Motronic (5.2.2 or 7.2) to the 3.6 engine. Any other insight is appreciated. Thanks, Ken
  2. Hobbes
    Yeah. That's the one. I'm having issues. The battery is Good, but when it turned over it just clicks to indicate a bad battery. It's on the charger now. Background info: I just put the engine back in. I'm back tracing my steps but I'm confident all was connect correctly
  3. Hobbes
    It's in the very center if the picture. The one with the weird hook on the end
  4. Hobbes
    I have a wire that I need to identify where it goes. Right now it is going to the starter but u am questioning this. Can someone please help, where does this wire go. See pic
  5. Hobbes
    The engine is back in and supported by the body once again. It was late last night and I didn't get a chance to connect the fuel lines, coolant hoses and underbody cross-member supports. I'll put the fluids back in tonight as well, but every looks good and I should be able to turn the key this evening. I did replace all the vacuum lines given that one of them was melted and collapsed together on itself and the one connecting to the fuel pressure regulator was broke. This may explain some of my high idle issues. The car has been out of commission for nearly two weeks and anxious to get it back on the road.
  6. Hobbes
    +1 on the experience setting the timing. It took me a little bit of trial and error, but once I figured it out, setting the timing became pretty easy on the other bank. I was set at TDC, but one thing I failed to do initially when the cams were out was to set the tick marks on the camshaft to the silver-like color link on the chains. Once this was done and the cams were back in place the timing was lined up, but like yourself, not perfect. I locked the timing tool into the cam, but I wasn't able to get the other end of the timing tool into the other cam hole. I dig some digging around in the Porsche technical manuals and it said to remove the four 10mm bolts holding the cam sprocket. Once I did this, I was able to use a rubber mallet and gently tap the part of the timing tool that wasn't lining up into the hole and then push it into the hole to lock it into place. I put the four bolts back into the sprocket and torque them down to specs and removed the cam timing tool. And sure enough, everything was aligned and 'timed' correctly.
  7. Hobbes
    Xmac - good to hear of your success. I am near finishing mine. I forgot to order the intake to head gasket so I'm in a holding pattern until they get here; they will be here Tuesday. I replaced all the coolant lines, fuel filter and cleaned the heck out of the external engine, components and transmission. The good news is that I was able to set the correct timing on banks 1 & 2, but since the engine is partially back together I'll have to wait a few more days to turn the key. I'm pushing to have it roaring and back on the road by Weds. I'm very curious what the new camshaft deviation readings will be, but more interested in not hearing the 'ticking' noise.
  8. Hobbes
    I agree Jeff. The only way to know is to remove it and look to see which one it is. Unfortunately, I need to pull mine to find out which one it is so I know which IMS bearing to buy. Most likely, I will do the LN Eng upgrade. Unfortunately, their upgrade depends on knowing which one it is first.
  9. Hobbes
    If you are doing the clutch and flywheel, replace the IMS and RMS, and update your AOS as it is out in the open with the trans out. I appreciate the looking out. I replaced the RMS about 4 years ago and did the AOS a couple ago. When I separated the transmission, I didn't see any oil on either the RMS or IMS, but I know both are prone to failure (RMS did fail). A friend of mine has a 2003 Boxster S and her IMS decided to fail recently. That being my catalyst, I'm looking at doing the IMS on this go around.
  10. Hobbes
    Thanks for the insight. I received my new pads today, gaskets, bolts, tensionsers. I was able to get bank 2 back together this evening. The pads were well worn. Judging by the picture, it was a good choice and most likely cause of the ticking noise. I anticipate having it back together this weekend. There were other parts that were well aged that I'm replacing as well, namely, coolant hoses, clutch, flywheel, fuel filter, vacuum lines. The car should purr like a kitten once it's all back together. Ken
  11. Hobbes
    Rich, There is a pretty good step-by-step on Pelican Parts website I intend to use. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/996_tech.htm The last two articles under the 'Engine' section. I can't speak to the labor portion as I have not yet done it yet, but the parts are pretty reasonable. Ken
  12. Hobbes
    Thanks JFP. I am following the other post you mentioned. I didn't know if the ticking and the camshaft deviation were related issues. It does make sense the tensioner pads get old and worn causing the chains to 'flap/knock' around a little. It sounds like I ordered the right parts for the job. I am going to drop the oil pan cover to make sure there aren't any foreign objects in there. Xmac recommended this and won't be much additional effort to check it with the engine out.
  13. Hobbes
    I have a 2000 996 C2 Cab with 132k miles. My engine has acquired a ticking/knocking sound on a cold startup and fades to a 'quieter', negligible tick/knock at operating temperatures. Two videos of the sound: and Background I hooked up the Durametric software due to a high idle and as I began looking at the actual values for different things, I came across a camshaft deviation bank 1 reading of -12.02 and camshaft deviation bank 2 reading of -5.21. One is out of limit and the other is close. I'm guessing the timing is off due to worn parts and just the age of the engine. As a result, I plan on dropping the engine/trans this weekend and replacing the chains, tensioners, pad brake set for the chains and some other things. Additional Information: The engine runs strong. I've cleaned the MAF (replaced two years ago). When I engage the clutch, the noise is still there. The ticking increases with rpms. Ticking is very faint at normal operating temperatures. Now with this ticking sound, I'm searching for potential causes. I would like to order parts soon, but don't want to waste money either on parts that are unrelated. Can anyone provide some insight and what you did to resolve the issue? Also is there a measureable value in the durametric software to help focus on the problem? Thanks
  14. Hobbes
    Thanks for the last input. I did not want to tackle the IMS issue. if correcting the deviation has positive results, then I'm steering clear until I absolutely have to.
  15. Hobbes
    Thanks. The car was warmed up but not driven during the durametric hookup This is my daily driver and was driven less than an hour prior. I did put RPMS on the car during the test and the values I mentioned did not fluctuate. From what I read, this rules out a catastrophic issue associated with an IMS failure; but I also know these cars are prone to IMS failures. (I've already replace the RMS)
  16. Hobbes
    It looks like I am having similar issues as described in this thread. I have a 2000 996 C2. I'm using the Durametric v6.3.2.5 and I looked at the deviation values as well as actual angle values for the camshaft. Camshaft position 1 deviation: -11.48 Camshaft position 2 deviation: -5.03 Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -0.30 Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: -0.34 I did have fault codes, P0410, P1411 and P0507. These codes are unrelated to the camshaft issue and relatively easy to fix, but the camshaft issue has me scratching my head. What prompted me to search on this is an audible knocking coming from the engine. Similar to the sound a lifter would make rapping back and forth. From what I am reading, taking the engine out and replacing worn parts is imminent in the foreseeable future. Before I roll up my sleeves and drop the engine, is my first course of action to get the cam tool and perform the actions in xmac's #17 posting? Or, based on the deviation values, I can pretty much assume age has taken its toll and the parts need replacing? Thanks, Ken
  17. Hobbes
    Before the plug change I looked at the idle roughness for all cylinders and the values were all over the place. After plug change durametric values were near 0. I didn't look at the misfires before the change, but afterwards there were no indications of misfires. Values showed 0. Ill recheck though and take a look at the A/F valuEs too
  18. Hobbes
    I do have the durametric software. Are there any particular of the metrics I should specifically pull?
  19. Hobbes
    I was able to flush my coolant system and it is sitting steady Not sure what caused the rough idle but I did Chang the plugs and double checked connections and the rough idle went away. Luckily I didn't have to remove the upper.
  20. Hobbes
    Follow-up. I replaced the coolant host going into the oil cooler. Changed the oil I went to start the car to begin flushing the system. I had a rough idle afterwards. Is this an indication of air in the cooling system?
  21. Hobbes
    Update: I took out the spark plugs and did a compression test on each of the cylinders. Each cylinder had 120 @ 5500 feet above sea level. All were well within 2% of each other. I checked the coils, all were good an I replaced plugs with NGK - R. I put it all back together and she starred up fine with an initial rough idle bit quickly settled into a nice running engine. The 996 is responsive and performs a bit better too. My cooling problem is no longer a problem. I had a flashing temp indicator, but that was due to low coolant level. I cycled new coolant into the system and all seems well. My temp indicator is running about 190-195 but holding steady.
  22. Hobbes
    I'm thinking I may have knocked the fuel injection line on the right side. Going to take a look at it in a few Just making sure all the connections, upper intake, etc are good to go
  23. Hobbes
    I'm going to check my plug wires and fuel injectors to make sure I didn't knock something loose when removing the upper intake
  24. Hobbes
    Follow-up. I replaced the coolant host going into the oil cooler. Changed the oil I went to start the car to begin flushing the system. I had a rough idle afterwards. Is this an indication of air in the cooling system?
  25. Hobbes
    Thanks Ahsai. I actually did replace it during the same procedure.
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