Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

logray

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    2,121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by logray

  1. If it's not engine oil then perhaps power steering fluid.
  2. Good catch JFP on the model year, I overlooked that. I think I had it right in my head but the words came out wrong from the keyboard. Sorta what I meant to say is a total engine rebuild is in $$$$$ territory, just to replace the IMS bearing. I guess long story is make darn well sure that it is a pending IMS failure before proceeding, there are plenty of places within the engine that can shed metal.
  3. Hi. When A/C is on low speed fans turn on. Both sides. In certain conditions, the high speed fans will kick on. If you want to see what the high speeds are like you can activate them in software such as Durametric. Or pull the low speed fan relays and IIRC the high speeds should kick on and off every few seconds or minutes. Then replace the relays. With the AC off the fans should not run on a cold car. To clean the radiators it's best to remove the front bumper, but in leiu of that a garden hose, a long vacuum hose attachment, followed by a good drive to get them up to temp to dry them off will work. Don't touch the fins with anything or you'll bend them.
  4. Yes considerably so (cost prohibitive), in fact it would be silly to tear apart the engine just to replace the IMS bearing.
  5. Correct to the above, and further, you cannot extract the stock bearing from the stock tube and expect to re-use it. Not to mention the expense of the tube itself... and requiring complete engine tear down.
  6. +1 to above and more info... I've noticed the STFT and LTFT readings from generic OBD change MUCH more quickly than the TRA and FRA values that can be obtained via Durametric/PST2/PIWIS.
  7. AFAIK and what I've obsereved is that the data that comes out of the generic OBD2 tables does not always agree or match up with the actual data in the DME. Translation, LTFT and STFT might not match up with TRA and FRA which is what Porsche uses to record fuel trims. For example, an "in spec" "long term" FRA trim would be around 1.0 +/- 0.1 and an in spec "idle range" fuel trim would be in the range 0.00 +/- .2 ish. So unless someone has a lot of experience cross-referencing and making sense of the different values, I think you would need a Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS to make sense of the actual numbers, otherwise you might just be chasing your tail or looking for a problem that might not exist. That being said, generically speaking if you increaes the amount of air going in the engine is going to compensate and add more fuel to reach the correct stotiometric ratio.
  8. No worries, you read a lot of junk on the Internet, and sadly for the p-car a lot of it is just bunk.
  9. Very good picture, I would second RFMs note to look for a connector on the door card itself, perhaps there is a connector on the arm rest "glove" box for a light... There has to be another end there, if you can't find another end there post the wiring colors, perhaps we can find it in a wiring diagram. In the mean time leave the door panel off.
  10. It's a good buy, Durametric will take your old cable and give you a new one at a discounted price. Well worth it.
  11. Still thinking hydrolock due to cylinder crack or d-chunk, not excess h20 in the intake.. however stranger things have happened. I certainly hope this has a good ending.
  12. There is a lot of debate about the low temp thermostat. You can read about it on ln engineering's website. Basically the concept is either a 160 or 186ish degree tstat will both allow the car to heat up just as much. However, the 160 degree thermostat does it slower and thus perhaps less of a shock to the aluminum engine, which could perhaps increase longevity and reduce likleyhood of cracks/etc.
  13. Reputable used parts places: dcauto.com oklahomaforeign.com
  14. Cracked heads or failed/cracked cylinders usually cause overheating, misfires, and oil and water mixing.
  15. aos bolts 7.5 ft lbs oil cooler 7.5 ft lbs yes tight seq for flywheel and pplate is good.
  16. Come on guys, be nice... not fun having to deal with this type of issue. There might be a chance your engine is OK, but trying to run it while it was exhibiting those symptoms is just brutal and might have reduced your chances to salvage what you've got. Certainly I agree turn the engine over by hand, if there is no binding or mechanical problems and the timing is OK and plugs look fine then perhaps all it needs is a good flush to get the moisture content out of the engine/oil. There was a post here recently from JFP on how to flush engine out. But basically IIRC you change the oil many many times in a very very short period of time. If your engine is toast, there was a post here a day or two ago and they come up from time to time about what to do with a failed engine. There are several options, from used, to rebuilt, to performance rebuilds, and a new engine. If you are going to spend $15-20k on a new engine, you might consider instead a superior option to have it rebuilt by a shop such as F6I.
  17. There was a thread here very recently with the same question, and I think that person was going to try to fit the larger newer tank to an old car. They never reported back here.
  18. Try to reset the e-gas learning. There is a procedure floating around here somewhere, or just unplug the battery for 3 or 4 minutes. It may take a while to relearn.
  19. 97C water temp is still not very hot, especially if it is 46C outside. Also, how are you reading that temperature? The temp gauge is not very accurate. Head gaskets do not fail on these cars, they are made of multi layer steel which is much stronger than the aluminium block and head. In 6 years + of monitoring this and other Porsche forums, I have not read of any head gasket failure on the 996, except for one where the head gasket was installed improperly with a small chip of debris left behind, creating a cavity. The most common cause for intermix are oil coolers, head cracks, or cyliner failures. It is common on these cars for moisture to form on the oil filler cap and it doesn't many anything is terribly wrong. What does the coolant look like? Oil coolers can sometimes fail, but you will almost always see oil in the coolant. Heads can form cracks which will also cause oil in the coolant.
  20. Ouch. Guessing hydrolock. Dont try to start it. What does the dipstick look like. Pull the spark plugs and see if there is coolant in the cylinders.
  21. It looks to be for one of the door microswitches or air bag, but it has been so long since I have been behind the door card, I can't remember. Did your airbag light come on after reassembly? Or perhaps a double beep on the alarm or other odd behavior with the door locking mechanism? Those might provide a clue as to which wire it is. I would advise spending the time to trace all the wires and looking very carefully for the presence of the wire and connector on the other end. Perhaps peel back the water liner slightly if you need to in order to find the missing wire/cable and use a good flash light. Hopefully someone who has been behind the door card recently has a better memory than mine.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.