logray

Thanks Loren. I got it on ebay. It's actually a KTS500 converted to a PST2. While programming the unit I've got the PST2 plugged into AC power. I've got a 40 amp manual charger that has the voltage at 15 volts while trying to program. According to the table below, the official PST2 operations manual shows that the Porsche part number for the cable 000 721 958 85 is equivalent to Bosch part number 1 684 462 386 (the # of my cable).

"[3] Test step aborted". I'm looking for advice on the error "[21] Test step aborted" when trying to program a control unit with a PST2. I am replacing my 996 DME with a used 986 DME, same part number. I have all codes to program both units, so I am thinking error 21 might be different from error 3. Thanks in advance and Happy 4th of July.

Nice work.

Thanks Loren. Useful info as always! I see from the manual that for the diagnostics lead I would assume by this table that porsche part number 000 721 958 85 is equivelant to bosch part number 1 684 462 386. I am not the type to assume though... I am wondering if anyone who has a genuine PST2 could actually look at their cable and confirm that which part number is written on it. Do you see 1 684 462 386, 000 721 958 85, or nothing at all? My KTS500 which I am trying to validate whether it was genuinely converted to PST2 has 1 684 462 386 written on the lead. Thanks again

Hello, I'm wondering if anyone out there with a genuine (grey) PST2 can confirm the part number on their diagnostics cable. I know the cable that comes with the KTS500 is different from the Porsche one. Do you have 1 684 462 386 on your cable? Or do you have 000 721 958 85? Reason I ask is, looking at this website, if you zoom into the image for 000 721 958 85, it looks like 1 684 462 386 - so have reason to believe the cable I have (1 684 462 386) is a genuine Porsche cable. http://www.fvd.de/us/en/Porsche-0/993_TT_GT2-132/-/-/group/show/VID_14696807-VCD_37772574-gid_197-sort_4-display_50/OBD-Diagnostic.html (page) http://www.fvd.de/us/en/Porsche-0/993_TT_GT2-132/-/-/item/item_details/VID_14776976-VCD_89558942-gid_197-sort_4-display_50-item_FVD72195885/TOOLS-OBD-Diagnostic-FVD72195885-PST2-Diagnostic-Line-OBD2--direct.html (picture) I have a green KTS500 which I believe has been successfully converted into a PST2. It is running version 24 of PST2 software. It has a silver pcmcia card (looks like kts 502 on this site http://kts-500.com/welcome_eng.html), and a bosch 1 684 462 386 cable. When I go into the PST2’s card information screen, it tells me card # 0650549623, dealer # 4500647, software version 1.00, hardware version 1.00, and customer group 1. The reason why I am asking is I understand that during programming a Motronic 5.2.2, it requires power on pin 12... and the standard KTS500 bosch cable is not wired through. Thanks in advance. -logray

Check out this thread regarding the pully. Check out this thead regarding the low voltage situation. In short, if the battery is fine - remove the alternator and have it bench tested at Napa before replacing it. It could be a bad voltage regulator, the alternator could indeed be bad, or you could have corroded wire somewhere given the age of the vehicle in question.

I did mine by removing just the transmission, but my car is a manual.

When you say rough, is the idle wandering? Or is the engine just vibrating a little more than it does at higher RPMs. Does an empty passenger seat shake violently or just a little bit? Make sure the oil is topped off. I'm not 100% on this and would wait for others to chime in, but if the ICV were bad you would most likely have a wandering idle - if it stays steady I doubt it's the valve. You could also try cleaning the ICV. if the engine RPM raises when you turn on the A/C and stays steady then it is probably doing it's job. My humble opinon is that slight idle vibration is farily normal for these cars (and have seen threads describing the same thing which people say is normal), but there could be a littony of reasons for engine vibration, if there truly is a problem. I doubt you have these problems though. Vaccum leak AOS DMF - does it change when you press the clutch in? IMS bearing going out causing balance shaft to wobble - doubtful though since I've heard they just "pop" Worn engine mount Worn transmisson mount Worn variocam pads? (not sure about this one, perhaps if severe enough?) Scored cylinder causing one or more to be out of spec Worn valve guides causing one or more cylinder to be out of spec The above problems or others causing low compression causing one or more cylinder to be out of spec Cracked coil pack or bad spark in a cylinder - likely to throw codes. A lot of these things will throw codes "if they are bad enough".

996 1999 C2. Is it normal for the idle control valve to hum/buzz loudly and get warm to the touch when the key is on, but the car is not running? I noticed it today without the car running - the ICV has a very loud hum to it. The idle is fine on the car, exept it does vary a little for the first few seconds at cold startup. Trying to avoid replacing this expensive part unless the buzzing indicates impending failure. 996 606 160 01 Thanks.

On a used DME unit, I am assuming "new immo" code would be the immo code on the used unit (not the immo code on your existing DME if you are replacing it with a used DME). Can anyone confirm this from Loren's procedure above? Thanks in advance.

Durametic can reset the service notification. Draning and filling your oil is really not that terribly difficult. I undestand in the UK there even "rent by the hour" DIY shop where you can have access to the proper tools and lift. After a few shops have underfilled or overfilled my cars throughout the years I've always done my own changes. If you have the right gear (doesn't cost much), you could even drain the oil, inspect it, and then in theory put the same oil back in (assuming you've assured no debris has entered the pail of used oil and have a screen to filter it before re-filling). Or for some insurance, $60-$80 USD gets you fresh oil. Or losen the drain plug enough until some oil comes out, won't take much - to see if it is clean and the oil was just changed. I too dislike the fact they have removed the dipstick in newer models... no redundancy on an electronic reading system for the most important aspect of your engines health, IMHO.

I devised my own method of replacing the old mount. It requires removing the transmission from the vehicle and using a hydraulic press and a couple sections of steel irrigation piping (I used a 6-ton floor jack but a 8-ton or greater shop jack would work best). Don't try a bottle jack unless you can fabricate/weld a support mechanism. Here is a link to the procedure. Try at your own risk.

Anyone know about the details of a "turbo" kit for this NA car?

Here you go. It was fairly difficult, but if I were to do it a second time it might not be as tough as having to come up with this method. edit edit: If you are adventurous, WEVO sells a semi solid engine mount for the boxster 986. The boxster engine mount is the same mount used in the 996 6-speed transmission (C2, C4, C4s), and the early tiptronics. The wevo mount will stiffen things up, and as an advantage does not require a press to install (so you only need to worry about removing your existing mount). I haven't tried this mount myself, but am thinking about doing it in the future: EDIT: doing this without removing the transmission (or transmission and engine) would be very difficult if not impossible. Pressing it out required tons of force, and getting a press with sufficient force in that tight spot would require an incredibly unique welding job and custom fabricated tool. If you don't want to go through all of this, and don't mind a stiffer ride, I've read about some who have "filled" the gaps in their broken mount with windshield sealant. I opted for the factory replacement since I rarely track my car, and would rather have more comfort than performance. It is possible to do the windshield sealant method with unit in car, since with the transmission fully supported by a jack, you would have access to the mount on both sides once you've removed the supports. With either windshield sealant as well as semi solid mount (there are solid mounts available too), be aware that the stock rubber unit will absorb much more shock for the entire drive train than the other methods. Stiffer mounts means a stiffer ride and potential for more road shock transferred directly to the engine, transmission, and your seat. You'll need: - a floor jack of at least 6 ton (recommend 8 or more). If you have access to a shop press, use that instead of a floor jack. - if you use a floor jack, several very heavy duty tie down or tow straps rated at least 5 tons with a suitable sized tie down ratchet to secure them all. - something to fabricate a support and secure the transmission safely while it's on it's side during pressing - a new transmission mount (part # fits all 996 MY 98-04, manual C2, C4, C4S and some early tiptronics): 996-375-055-05 - safety gear, glasses, goggles, gloves, etc. - 4" section of 3" steel pipe (receiver/support for transmission case to accept the mount and ram) - 4" section of 2.5" steel pipe (ram to press mount out) - If you can't get 4" sections at your hardware store, a way to cut the irrigation pipe. A pipe cutter, band saw, or circular saw and "disposable blade". - grease Step 1.) Remove transmission from vehicle. Step 2.) Purchase from your local hardware store (that sells steel irrigation piping) a 1 foot section of 3" steel pipe (galvy or black doesn't matter). This becomes the "receiver" for the mount. Also buy a 1 foot length of 2.5 inch steel pipe - this will become the ram that you press with a floor jack. If the store has the capability, have them cut each section for you down to 4" or sell you 4" you can save yourself the trouble of cutting it. The stores I visited would not sell/cut less than 1' of pipe. Step 3.) Cut each length of 1' pipe to 4" (be as accurate as possible with the angle on the cut to ensure it is perpendicular to the pipe). Step 4.) With the transmission VERY WELL secured (I recommend simple fabrication of foam/wood mounts/tie downs) and on it's side (I used a harbor freight trans jack with strap and some carefully placed shims of wood), place the 3" outside diameter "receiver" section of steel pipe on the top side of the transmission with the concave flange surrounding the mount hole (press side). Be careful not to damage the gear selecting arms, reverse light switch, etc. Step 5.) Using a 6 ton or larger jack (recommend 8 or more), place the 2.5" outside diameter piece of pipe underneath the transmission on the non-press side (flat surface on the transmission casing). The pipe should rest on the cup on top of your floor jack. This becomes the press that will push the mount out of the casing. The jack will press the 2.5" O.D. section of pipe and the mount through the casing into the receiver piece of pipe out on the top side of the transmission. It is VERY important that the press section of pipe is exactly aligned with the outside edges of the mount, otherwise you'll press into the transmission casing. The 2.5" O.D. pipe is a few mm smaller than the outside diameter of the mount so it will slide through the hole in the case. Step 6.) If using a floor jack, using several very heavy duty tow straps (at least 3 wrapped around) and a tie down ratchet, secure the entire assembly snugly (but not overly tight). The straps should wrap around the bottom of the floor jack, and the top of the receiver on top of the transmission on it's side. Step 7.) Ensure children and pets are not nearby. Do not do this where flying debris could damage something, although the strap mechanism is most likely to break. Wear safety goggles and suitable protection while pressing. Step 8.) Gently add pressure to the floor jack to ensure everything is aligned properly before adding too much pressure. (might take a few efforts to align properly). The entire system (jack & trans) might roll a little on the ground (unless your floor jack raises exactly vertically) - I found a point on my jack that raised more vertically than while in the flat or highest position. The more vertical the pressing action the better. This is why an actual hydraulic shop press would work best since it does not move laterally as it presses. Step 9.) Once you're certain everything is aligned, give it your all - one "pump" of the handle at a time. The mount will break free and eventually press through. Step 10.) The next part was more difficult for me. You are going to do the steps above but in reverse and with a few notes. a.) FLIP the transmission on it's other side so you are pressing towards the concave flange around the hole in the case (recommend fabricating a simple wood support to keep the transmission level and secure). Be careful not to damage the gear select arms, etc. b.) CRITICAL that you align the mount vertically (make note of how it was removed) within a few centimeters (there is a small amount of play in the transmission mounting system). You'll see on the top of the new mount there is an arrow that should point straight up when the transmission is LEVEL. c.) GREASE the outside of the new mount and inside of the transmission casing. d.) PRESS the new mount in using the press side of the casing (you'll see one side of the trans casing has a small concave depression while the non-press side is flat against the press). e.) Don't be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to align it properly. The casing may actually deform slightly and it takes a lot of force (several tons worth) to get the new mount in. Once you get it started though, it will start to slide in with less effort than it took to press it out. f.) As you press in using the floor jack, SLIGHTLY relieve the tension on the straps when you press the mount in farther (may require a couple press attempts, mine took two and broke a strap in progress). This is because eventually you will be pressing against the strap, and not against the press that pushes the mount in place - preventing you from pressing it in completely. Don't be discouraged if your tow/tie down strap didn't work the first time, use wider or more straps and bigger tie down ratchets the next time you attempt it. Note that you don't have this problem when pressing out (much easier) because once the press has started there will be less tension on the tow strap due to the mount pushing into the receiver section of steel pipe. Here are the pictures of my success with this procedure. Good luck. (click pictures to enlarge) edited for easier reading/accuracy.

Wow, that's awesome! Here's a link to the thread. Thanks for the search tip !!! Always love learning about new things on my car.

Does anyone happen to know what the other values/positions mean? Some of them appear to be voltages and other temperature probes?

Install a third radiator.

I haven't done it on a tip, but with my manual I've done it through the top by removing the manifold/plenum/alternator/airbox/various hoses/etc. It was a major pain to get at all the bolts, especially towards the rear of the 1-3 intake manifold. Then it takes a miracle to get all the hoses connected well and everything put back together. Also saw how it could be done much easier by just removing the transmission... a much safer bet because you have a better angle to get at all the hoses. If I had to do it again I would do it by removing the transmission - much easier to get at from behind the motor, however not sure if removing the tip trans is an harder than a manual. If it is a C4 then it could be harder to get the trans out. If you remove the motor of course, that would be the easiest way. Duh.

Does anyone know if this would fit a '99 3.4L ?

For the bank 1-3 side, pulling off the old flange cover is easy (two bolts and no jack stands behind rear drivers wheel), getting to disconnect wire that connects to it so you can slip on a new cover is indeed a royal pain in the *** (way up by the cam cover/AOS bushing), unless you have tiny hands, certainly requires removing the wheel and jack stands. Just my opinion, but I believe a little anerobic flange sealant on the base of the bolts and base of the flange (not the inner seal) will help prevent leaks too, even though Porsche rarely recommends doing that for any seal. The one on the 1-3 side had a leak that I would describe "a little more than a sweat", and replaced it while I had the transmission out and wheels off, it was a snap then. The 3-6 side does not leak from original factory 70k miles and 11 years ago.

I had the same issue with my 996 (non turbo) and after replacing 2 batteries, the alternator, and the starter. And guess what? The exact same problem was still there. Not sure how the 996tt is configured, but I ended up having to replace the ground strap from the engine to the body AND the badly CORRODED power cable (source of problem) from the starter to alternator to battery lead. If the car is old and has had engine washed, stored in a damp climate, stored outside, etc. there is a chance it could be a corroded cable. A bench test on the alternator done for free by most auto parts store will confirm whether it is good or bad.

Different car, and not sure how old yours is but the same problem and solution described here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31797-strange-low-voltage-problems

Cool thanks that makes me feel better someone else puts that much in, the thing just kept taking oil and I thought I must have done something wrong... maybe bad RMS or IMS seal or something... but no leaks from that work still and lots of miles since! It looks like I've got a leak near the number 4-6 chain tensioner (hall/cam sensor? I have to rip it apart) and another small leak on the opposite 1-3 bank, on the outside of the variocam lid opposite the cam sensor for bank 1-3 (still trying to figure out what that thing is).

Are you sure, I thought it was 31 in that picture above. Mine leaks a little BTW, need to put a new o ring on it.

It took nearly exactly 10.25 quart sized bottles of oil by the way to get a full reading.