Rob in CO

I looked at all of the tubes when I did plugs and did not see any cracks or leaks. I decided to leave them and just went with new plugs all around. If I end up with a leak, so be it but I didn't want to bother with them if they seemed OK and they did. Getting the forward coil packs off is a pain but otherwise it is not a bad job. Doing plugs is when I discovered a split CV boot....and on it goes.

DIY is the way to go for alot of stuff and Pedro's site (and others) have been a great help to me. Since last fall I have done a coolant tank replacement, serp belt, removed and cleaned throttle body, replaced motor mount, CV boots, AOS and removed the front bumper to thoroughly clean the radiators. Some are time consuming but not difficult if you take it slow and follow the steps. I went with another Mahle (stock) oil filter. Is the K&N an insert or a full can setup? I kind of like the 2 piece stock setup since it allows for a very thorough inspection of the element for foreign matter. Mine was clean. Good luck with your projects.

I'm sure you looked at Jake's site and the information they have. I can see how he wouldn't endorse/not endorse one brand over another. I have heard a few things about the additives potentially fouling catalytic converters but I have used similar products in other cars for many years and never had a problem, nor have I known anyone personally who has had anything like that happen. I will probably keep running this stuff. I might do a used oil analysis at the next change but other than that, I am not going to worry about it. Good luck.

I have a 2001 S with about 55K miles and I did the same research before my last oil change a few months ago. I went with the Mobil 1 10/40 High Mileage and like it so far. No real noticeable difference except maybe a bit quieter, especially on start up. I think the oil discussion is a bit overdone and any that meet the standards are fine for a street car. My opinion and I know that MANY others disagree. Given the age of my car, the additional additives in the HM formula seemed like a good idea. I also like that you can buy it easily at Wal Mart in the 5 quart jugs.

I have never had them damage anything but I generally put a piece of plastic or soft pine scrap wood in the saddle of the jack stand. I recently replaced the trim around my garage door with PVC and the scraps from that job work great for this task. Rob

Hi Rob, Do u mind filling me on the symptoms that u experienced that lead u to the diagnosis of the motor mount? was it completely gone, or just beginnning to go? .. I'll investigate tuning the shifter after looking into the motor mount..... (How long did it take to arrive after ordering?) PEter Hi Peter, My main annoyance/symptom that prompted the mount replacement was a balky 2-3 upshift. It was worst when the car was cold but would occur at other times, too. Based on the reading here and at PPBB, it seemed logical to me that the mount had deteriorated and was allowing unwanted movement in the drivetrain. I never had any grinding or other such noises and the car ran fine otherwise. Pedro sent me the mount in about a week. I inspected the old one and while not completely failed, there were large tears in the rubber on both sides so it was definitely compromised. Installing the enthusiast mount and readjusting my B&M shifter has solved my shifter issues and I like it much better now. I notice perhaps a bit more engine noise and vibration but I find it to be a more than acceptable tradeoff for the better shifter feel/performance. Let me know if you have other questions and be sure to send your core mount back to Pedro. He needs them to make the new ones. Rob

I did the Pedro mount on my '01S about 2 months ago and I really like it. What I strongly suggest after that job is done is that you remove the center console and spend an afternoon driving the car and making fine adjustments to the shifter cables. I set them back to original after I installed a B&M a couple of years ago and while the feel was good, I always had some trouble with 3rd gear when the car was cold. After the motor mount and fine tuning, it is much better. IMHO it is worth a couple of hours of slightly awkward driving with no console to get it just right.

You need to have a jack available for the engine. You need to move it up and down a bit to access the bolts and maneuver the mounts in and out. Only a couple inches of movement but it is critical. Pedrosgarage.com has excellent instructions with photos and he also sells an aftermarket mount, which is what I installed and I like it. A bit more noise and vibration but the shifter feel is WAY better. The job is probably a 3 or 4 out of 10 on difficulty. Really not awful if you can slide in and out under the car easily. Go for it and good luck.

I just did the motor mount on my '01S a few weeks ago. Tranny mounts looked OK so I left them alone for now. As long as you can get the car high enough on stands to lie comfortably underneath it, it isn't that bad.

Go ahead and remove the throttle body. It is relatively easy. Check it for lots of oil (it will have a little bit as normal), give it a good cleaning and tighten up every hose clamp you can reach when you put it back. I don' t think the little bit of oil seeping out of the tubes is worrisome, though.

50K is young for a clutch, I think, but it really depends on driving style and conditions. Lots of stop and go city driving will shorten the life regardless of good or bad driving habits. My '01 S has 54K on the clock and the clutch is fine. I have never had it done but I think $1200 - $1500 is pretty typical for cost. Since you have already paid for the labor, absolutely have the shop check the RMS and IMS while they are in there. Lots of threads about both issues here and on other Boxster boards. If you are in an area where there is a choice of independent shops, I would try to find one as a possible alternative to the dealer. Good luck.

My 2001 S had a sometimes stubborn 2-3 upshift. It almost always happened when cold and improved as the car warmed up. I have a B&M shifter. I recently replaced the front motor mount and it has made a significant improvement. It is still a little bit sticky when the car is dead cold but nothing like before. The dealer is telling you that your mount has not completely failed, which is likely true. It is probably very worn, though. I went with an aftermarket replacement (Pedro) that is a bit stiffer. It sounds and feels a little bit different than the stock but I like it and I really like the crisp shifter feel.

Pull the carpets in the rear trunk and check the coolant reservoir, especially the back, for cracks.

Gary, I don't remember the part number and I can't find the receipt right now. I was pressed for time and just bought mine at the local dealership for a premium but not that bad over the online price. I am sure you can find the number here or on one of the parts supplier sites. I also don't remember where it appeared on the unit. If there is a leak, there is almost a 100% chance that it is on the back side of the tank that curves to conform to the inner rear fender. If you remove just the couple of attachment bolts on the floor and the firewall you should be able to wiggle the tank enough to get a good look back there with a flashlight and maybe a small mirror. In my case, it was pretty obvious that there had been a leak. If you don't see any dribbles, I think you can safely button it back up and feel safe. Access to do this replacement is MISERABLE so I wouldn't bother with it if you don't have to. I think a serp belt bought at a major parts store would be fine. I ordered mine online with some other stuff at the time but I am pretty much of the opinion that a belt is a belt. When I did the coolant tank I cut the hoses for ease of removal and replaced them with standard stuff from Checker. Others may worry about such things. I don't and have never had problems. If it has been awhile since checking the air filter, I would do that. Mine was nowhere near scheduled replacement last time and looked absolutely awful. I was shocked and as a lifelong car guy, a little ashamed. Definitely start your trip with a clean one. I'm a NJ native who now lives in Colorado. Things are tough all over. If you can afford to take the road trip, absolutely do it. Few things are better at clearing the head and improving outlook. Rob

I would take a very careful look at the coolant tank. Pull the carpets in the trunk and look for any leakage. I took a 5K+ mile trip last fall in my '01S and replaced the leaking tank right before I left. Other than that, the serp belt is really easy. If there are any doubts about its age/condition I would go ahead and change that. Check the condition of the air filter while you are at it. Enjoy the trip. Rob