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mds

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Everything posted by mds

  1. What is the torque spec for the GT3 front brake caliper pin bolt? This is the bolt on the end of the heavy duty pin holding the brake pads and spring in place.
  2. Thanks for the DIY. I installed fabric seats today. The only trouble I had was with the electrical connector. I discovered that the whole connector can be removed from the seat by pressing two small plastic tabs and then sliding the unit off the seat. This is a time savings as it allow you to closely examine the connector to discover how it comes apart. To disconnect the connector, there are two clips that need to be released. The first, on one side, pulls out only partially and releases the two main pieces of the connector. The second smaller one on the other side releases the small seat belt sub-connector. Finally, the fabric seats have clips installed on the bottom which accept the seat belt wire so you can keep things tidy.
  3. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    Here is a picture of one of the bent front hooks. It is bent from scraping the ground and not from the tiedown strap forces. What surpises me is how much it is bent yet the brake ducts were not stripped from the car. The bottom of the bent hook is now about one inch above the bottom of the duct. At this point the hooks are not scrapping much anymore. I think they are about as bent as they are going to get, unless I hit a kerb or something.
  4. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    What worked best on the U-haul was to run the straps between diagonally opposite corners of the car. That is from the front left hook on the car to the right rear loop on the trailer, and similarly for the other three straps. All of the ratchets are placed at the rear end of the trailer, so there is plenty of space to get under the car and cinch them tight. To get the car on the trailer you will need some wood blocks to extend the ramps. I also used wood on top of the trailer's wheel tracks to lift the car to help avoid scraping. I ended up using about seven 10 foot lengths of 2x4s total. Needless to say the U-haul is not designed for low cars like the GT3. The biggest problem I have encountered so far is that the front hooks scrap the ground when driving. In situations where you would normally just scrap the brake ducts the hooks will scrap and bend. I may end up removing the front hooks and use Karl's lift point idea instead. There is also an issue with one of the rear hooks. One of them is very near an oil tank line and so you need to be careful so that the strap hook does not press against it. Running the straps to the opposite ends of the trailer solved this problem. I put the car on the trailer backwards so that more of the weight is in front of the trailer's wheels. So it towed very well at high speed behind my Land Cruiser.
  5. It is possible to enable left foot braking by playing with the brake pedal switch!!! There are three wires connected to three of the terminals of the brake pedal switch connector. I will call these terminals bottom, side and top. Releasing the brake pedal shorts the bottom and side terminals. Pressing the brake pedal shorts the bottom and top terminals. The first experiment I tried was to disconnect the connector and short the bottom and side terminals of the connector with a piece of wire. This simulates a permanent brake pedal released condition. Left foot braking is possible now! But of course the rear brake light stays out. The second experiment was to remove the wire shorting the bottom and side terminals. In other words, the situation here is that the connector is simply unplugged. No other change. Left foot braking is still possible! I was surprised by this result. Of course, still no rear brake light. My third experiment was to short the bottom and top terminals, to simulate a permanent brake pedal pressed condition. The rear brake light is now on always. And left foot braking is still possible! I was again surprised. Between all of these experiments the car was turned off with the key removed. So, for track driving in situations where you think you don't need a rear brake light, simply remove the connector. In cases where you really do want the rear brake light, I do not have a solution. However, I have a suspicion that if you leave the connector connected and cut the side wire, you may get everything you want. I am trying to figure out how to remove the terminal from the connector without cutting the wire, but so far no luck.
  6. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    Thanks for the tips Karl. A note on the Autometrics' hooks. The front pair, although no lower than the brake ducts, are a hard point from a ground clearance standpoint. Front: Rear:
  7. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    Jim, I will know more Wednesday morning when I rent the U-Haul. Possibly diagonally and across might work.
  8. Thanks! Loren, I would like to borrow them. Are you located on the Peninsula somewhere? When would be a convenient time?
  9. Thanks, I got the trim piece off, and was able to release the cage holding the radio and the A/C delete panel, but I haven't yet figured out how to release the radio from the cage. The workshop references instructions for radio removal, but I can't find them in my copy. The four speakers in the car are pretty small and light. 3lbs total for all of them.
  10. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    The picture shows the front pretty well. If you look under the car from the front, just inside of the brake duct scoops, you will see the heads of three bolts. The hook attaches to the frontmost one. I have the hooks but have not installed them yet. The instructions call for locktite, I need to buy some.
  11. mds

    Tie down your GT3

    The owner's manual suggests tieing down through the spokes of the wheels. Or you can use these from Autometrics:
  12. Thanks for the instructions! :cheers: A couple of comments: There is one additional TORX screw not mentioned in the instructions that needs to be removed. It is located just below the front edge of the shifter boot. While you are working, be careful to avoid scratching the leather covering on the lower part of the parking brake handle. It is thin and easy to mare. :oops: Net weight savings is 3lbs. The parts removed are just less than 4lbs, those installed are just less than 1lb. It is a very worthwhile improvement to the car.
  13. There are two switches connected to the clutch pedal, one opens when the pedal is first pressed, the other closes when the pedal is fully pressed. I tried defeating each of these switches individually, and then both together, hoping to defeat the throttle cutoff on left foot braking, but was unsuccessful. I am surprised since clutch position appears to be a factor. Maybe there is another switch hidden somewhere. Or maybe Karl is right and the ECU is looking at engine loading and not pedal positions. I hope to find a wiring diagram and look into this more. It may also be possible to tweak the brake pedal wiring somehow. Any suggestions?
  14. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the radio with the OEM shelf? I looked through the workshop manual table of contents but didn't find anything relevant.
  15. I am going to install a new set of brake pads and I don't want to bother reinstalling the pad wear sensors. What should I do with the leads? Should they be tied back onto the suspension somewhere with a quick tie?
  16. Here are the numbers for the 2004 GT3, for both RoW and USA. Thank you Gert for finding this information. Front axle height: 115 + 5mm (115 to 120mm) Rear axle height: 128 + 5mm (128 to 133mm) Front axle: Toe unpressed (total): +8' +/- 2' Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°30' +/- 30' Camber: -1° +/- 5' Max camber difference, left/right: 10' Caster: 8° +/- 30' Max caster difference, left/right: 40' Rear axle: Toe per wheel: +13' +/- 2' Max toe difference, left/right: 5' Camber: -1°50' +/- 5' Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
  17. Thanks, Loren. Bolts did come with the bracket and bottle, but they look a bit too short. But it won't be a problem finding something longer if necessary.
  18. In the workshop manual, Group 0 General, page 57, Installing fire extinguisher: I need the PN for the spacer sleeve #2 and the fastening screw #4. Thanks.
  19. According to the workship manual, the factory shims are 1mm thick. To get more front camber you need the thicker shims. What are the part numbers?
  20. Thanks Loren. I tried techinfo online for the first time and got some of what I wanted. However, coverage on MY04 is still somewhat limited. To bad there is not a model specific subscription available at a reasonable price.
  21. Does a workshop repair manual exist for the street GT3? I can't find anything listed at myporsch.com nor techinfo.porsche.com. Is something available from PMNA, maybe for the Cup car?
  22. I don't understand this. Surely you can blip to rev match a downshift while under braking. Can you not? Surely. Egas must disengage its throttle kill in certain situations.
  23. After major brake work it is hard to get all the bubbles out. Even when you think they are all out, some can remain. Take it easy the first couple of laps. If the pedal feels fine, you are set to go. Otherwise, rebleed.
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