rb101

The muffler tips are clamped on and I think you moved one of them. Should be able to loosen the clamp and move it back into position. As for the sway bar, it has a few bends in it. I don't see you bending it by without doing damage to anything else. I've seen damage on under carriage parts by wreckers using them hold down points.

Safelite will install the same brand as the (Sekurit) as the factory glass, well as least they did for my 944

That's an interesting picture. There is nothing that touches the IMS flange at that location, might have been a bad casting that was too low for the machining to remove.

Sorry for my confusion, I thought you were recommending the new style tensioner? It sounds like you had issues with the new, perhaps because you did not replace all three at the same time? And the old tensioner lasted you 105K? Yep that's where I'm at - I agree on trying to release tension on 4-6 - like it was said earlier - extra insurance when I start banging around on the bearing and shaking things around a bit. I would recomend to replace all the tensioners with new. Only the IMS tensioner changed in style the other two are the same type with minor updates. At 105K, both my IMS and 1-3 tensioners were badly scored and didn't operate smoothly. I really didn't need to replace 4-6, but did anyways. I feel that that using the new style (997) IMS tensioner with the older style chain pads is a bad idea. Porsche put out that service bulletin for a reason.

The new 4-6 tensioner is an allen wrench and I think it might clear or at least release tension without moving the A/C compressor (have not confirmed) The new IMS tensioner piston does not have a pin to limit the maximun travel as the older style does and only has the chain pad and the spring to keep everything together. It looks from the tech bulletin diagram that the new style pad sits closer to the tensioner then the old style. When I pulled the new tensioner out after 3K miles of use, it looked like the piston was fully extened and would have been leaking oil. I know the old style tensioner worked for 105K, the new was an unknown entity. It's only $70 for some piece of mind. I got the last one in the US mid March The 1-3 and 4-6 tensioners are in the states and I would replace them as you have everything apart. The IMS can be changed later, but I would change them all out. If you have the engine pinned at TDC, pulled IMS and 1-3 tensioner and IMS flange, I doubt anything has jumped timing. I would pull the 4-6 before you proceed on pulling the IMS bearing so there is not tension on the other side of the IM Shaft and oil pump drive.

There should be no pop as they should slide out smoothly. Replace all 3 tensioners, I had scoring on the IMS and 1-3(D), the 4-6(P) was clean, but wanted a full set of new ones. Make sure you get the older style for the IMS chain(996-105-180-54). There is a service bulletin that you can't mix the new style IMS adjuster/tensioner and the old style pad. I put the new style one in and replaced it with the older style after 3K. When I pulled it out, it looked like the piston was out of its bore and only the spring was keeping it together. Order new crush washers as they don't come with the adjusters.

Should be able to use any M10-1.50 X 50 allen head bolt that is 12.8 grade. BTW, I could not find that bolt either, only the other 7 bolts are in the PET.

Wayne, There are some errors in the boxster tech article #16: photo 15: There are three externally accessible chain tensioners on the Boxster motor. The one shown here tensions the chain between the crankshaft and the intermediate shaft and is by far the most difficult to reach. It’s located underneath the air conditioning compressor, inside the cylinder head, and is accessible from inside the engine compartment. In order to loosen this tensioner, you need to remove the two screws that hold on the air conditioning compressor and nudge it out of the way. Then use a 32mm socket to loosen the tensioner as shown in the inset photo in the lower right. You loosen the tensioner in order to replace the intermediate shaft bearing (see Pelican Technical Article: Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS)). The picture is the adjuster for 4-6 underneath the A/C compressor photo 16 : This photo shows the chain tensioner for cylinders 1-3, which is located inside the bottom of the cylinder head. The three tensioners are all different, but look remarkably similar. Porsche marked the top of each tensioner with different rings in order to help distinguish amongst them. A- The main intermediate shaft tensioner located under the air conditioning compressor. B- The chain tensioner for cylinders 4-6, which fits inside the crankcase near the flywheel. C- The chain tensioner for cylinders 1-3, which fits into the bottom of the cylinder head. Note the handy marking on the head itself (purple arrow). IMS adjuster is by the flywheel 1-3 is on the bottom of the 1-3 head 4-6 is on top the head under the A/C compressor photo 17: This photo shows the tensioner for cylinders 4-6, which is located on the left side of the engine case very close to the bottom of the flywheel. When replacing the intermediate shaft bearing, loosen the tensioner as shown in the inset photo. If the tensioners are leaking, you should replace the metal sealing ring (orange arrow, PN: 900-123-147-30) and the small o-ring on the tensioner shaft (purple arrow, PN: 999-707-344-40). This is picture of IMS adjuster

Doug, If you are going to pull the cam cover and check the allocation, you might as well also replace the cam tab since it had gotten bent at one time (rotor trim 996-105-129-52). Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

I replaced my IMS bearing with the LN upgrade at 105K. Only time will tell if it fixes that cause of the engine failure. My opinion I would do the bearing upgrade with other service that requires removal of the transmission (clutch/RMS/IMS seal/AOS). The other worthwhile maintenance is replacing the cam chain guides and chain adjusters. Mine were badly worn and scored at 105K. The new adjusters reduced the startup chain noise.

I had the same codes about 1 year ago, I replaced the MAF. No codes since.

I find that connector one of the hardest to disconnect. On right flat side, just push really hard, you should feel it move a bit, then kind of wiggle it off.

I think I've only seen my engine fan kick on once in a few years. Did they drain the coolant when they replaced the tappets?

How many miles is on the 99 3.4? If more then 75K, I would have the cam chain guides replaced also. You will then have an opportunity to remove the tube pieces.

Those two screws are a torx and I believe it's a T-20, but don't quote me on that. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

To change the chain adjuster crush washers, the engine only needs to be locked at 1 TDC. The cam tools are only needed to remove the cam covers, you will need a 32mm (1 /14 inch) socket to remove the adjusters. I just changed out my IMS chain adjuster this weekend, you will lose about 1 cup of oil in the process. The 1-3 adjuster can be seen from the bottom, for the 4-6 you will need to unbolt the A/C compressor to get access to the adjuster. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

yes, it's just a crush washer. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

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Well I'm sure the immobilizer that sits under the driver seat is toast and thats why it will not turnover or start.

Do these hoses come off of a hard pipe and connect to the engine and that hard pipe goes to the front of the car?

Very common problem. Do a search you will see this comes up once a month. The airbag is rather heavy and over the years the bushings on the airbag retaining frame wear out and weaken, causing the horn on braking and turning. There is a fix for it or replace the frame 993-347-088-01

pm sent and thanks! I am trying to do some PM with 127k on the OD, I have heard that the rail guides get worn pretty bad on high mileage vehicles, I know i can replace the 2 pads per head on the Vario-cam thingie (sorry not sure of the technical term) but not sure if you can unbolt and replace the pads that run along the chain that go back to the IMS, from schematics it looks like one pad is held on by a bold and moved by an oil driven pressure unit, the other pad is bolted on with 2 bolts, just not sure if the bolts are accessible from the exterior of the engine and if they can be removed/replaced with the crank case assembled. For the IMS to exhaust cam chain guides, the adjustable one is held by 1 bolt and the fixed is held by two bolts. For head 1-3 all the bolts are easily accessible by (flywheel side). For head 4-6, you have to remove the oil pump housing to access the bolts. I had minimal wear on my chain guides at 105K on mine. I also replaced all three chain adjusters as two were scored. The vario-cam pads were worn badly. If I were to do again, I think I skip the chain guides. I posted this on rennlist about a month ago. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/7191930-post1.html

The bolts are torqued to 7.5 FT/LBS. Can you see where it is leaking from?

Are you sure it's not coming from the water pump right above it?

I replaced mine a few weeks ago @ 105K miles. It looked fine in the engine with no wobble. I now have it sitting on my computer desk, without the seals and dry of engine oil, it rattles a lot if I shake it and if I spin it really fast, it some times makes a buzzing. I think it would have survived for another 30K. But, if you have your engine or transmission out for another purpose, you might as well replace it. I see $600 as a cheap replacement for a critical part.