ericinboca

Lot's of guys much smarter on this than me, Loren for one, but there is a big difference. Durametric, while an absolutely awesome tool (I have one and recommend it to most DIYers), only reads codes and can give actual values, and let you clear check engine lights and some other things. It is a very good diagnostic tool. It will not let you program the DME, however. The entusiast version cost less that 300 USD. PIWIS is the latest version of the porsche tester, which I understand is only available by lease to Porsche shops and independents and runs 5 figures, plus yearly updates. A PIWIS does everything, including allowing you to make changes to the DME. The PST2 is the PIWIS predecessor, but will not work with 9x7s.

Yea - I would wonder about alignment first too. Toe out in the rear would make the rear wander - toe out in the front would do the same, but to the front.

I don;t really know of anyone that has done this. I have found, however, that I get better braking by going another route with pads -I use yellow up front and black, with a greater coefficent of friction, in the rear. It is sort of a poor man's brake bias...makes the back do a little more, but nothing crazy to get the rear out of shape. I think the answer to your Q, though, really depends on how much difference there is in the friction co-efficeint in your stock pads and the orange. I imagine, quite a bit, plus the MOT will be way different. Personally, I would go ahead and do the rears too. JMHO I like orange, by the way. They just have not lasted very long for me.

Ah - I see. Very clever solution.

You need a special tool to get the tube out on an 01? Really? On the 04, it will just pull out when you pull the coil pack off. And if it stuck for some reason, I would just use needle nose pliers to pull it out, especially if I know the tube is bad. But like I say, maybe the 01 is different.

I put it back together and drove it some. Once on the road, the voltage began fluctuating on the prblem side, however, not to the same low point that the other side dropped to. I'm lost.

I put in two new 02 sensors, as mentioned previously for purely emotional reasons. I got codes. Pre-cat sensor drivers side, faulty circuit. According to the DME manual, I: * checked the heater wire resistance on the sensor and it is within spec * checked voltage supply to the plug heater wires, and it is within spec * checked reference voltage between pins 3 & 4 on jack; in spec * checked the resistance from DME connector II pin 10 and sensor jack pin 3; in spec * checked the resistance from DME connector II pin 16 and senor jack pin 4; in spec The manual says to check reference voltage on DME control module using a 134-pin test adapter No 9637. Is there a way to check this without the pin adapter? Or can I get this adapter somewhere? Using Durametric, I see the voltage staying steady rather than fluctuating. I don't think it is the sensor, because same happens no matter what sensor I put in.

Don't know the life expectancy of a MAF, but Sunset just gave me a price of 271.45 for my 04 986S

Durametric I think gives some cam data - I will see what I can gather there too. I think you are right - i will probably just have to keep going and hope a code comes up. Part of the reason for changing the sensors is ease, but also some twisted notion of doing what I can. While it seems unlikely, I don't want this thing stalling out on me on exit when I need the torque to keep the backend planted. If I crunched the rear end, I would be kicking myself for not following my gut, eventhough there is no data to back it up.

It is an intersting thought. I appreciate the ideas. I wondered about the fuel pump too, and wonder if I am only experiencing this when low on fuel. I don't know for sure about the fuel level when this is occuring, and will pay attention. In the video where it stalls, that is after 50 minutes of hard running, after starting with a full tank - it would have been down to 1/4 when I quit and had the problem.

There are some posts talking about variocam and hesitation in this RPM range...but I am completely clueless when it comes to this. I know we should get codes if there is an o2 sensor or MAF sensor problem, and we didn't...but it is acting like it has its mixture all messed up or fuel delivery is out of whack. Later today, after work quits interfering with life :D , I will gather whatever MAF data I can get through Durametric and post it. But if the DME is the problem itself, it may not show anything. And what's more, if it is only doing it at the end of a long track session, I cannot replicate it in my home garage. I'm getting desperate, plus I am kind of a nut about being sure everything is in top running order, so I am going to go ahead and install two new o2 sensors. I am also going to get a new MAF, but hold it out for now. I go back to Sebring May 1 & 2. If I don't have the issue during the weekend, then maybe I can assume it was some sort of strange issues with the o2 sensors. If I get the problem with the new o2 sensors, then I will replace the MAF and see what happens. Not fond of trial and error diagnostics, but without codes, I'm unsure of what else to do.

I have trouble describing the issue. I'm going to look at my video from this weekend - maybe I will get lucky have have it on tape with sound and tach signal. This is of dubious value because it does not have data with it (I guess I forgot to turn on traqmate), but here is some video. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/stalls_648185.htm First, some context. This particular clip is my last lap on my second day at Sebring last weekend. When I experienced my issue, I had run 50 minutes solid in this session - and the car, up to this point in this session, was flawless. At the beginning of the "power loss" clip, you see me approaching turn 13. I rev match down to second, turn in, and then you see me wave the customary thanks and goodbye to the corner worker. Right after the wave, I upshift to third, and then see a GT3 coming through 13 still running hot laps, so I let off the throttle a lot to let him get easily by me. Revs drop, I think down to around 3000. I start getting back in the throttle and nothing happens – no power. I wish I knew this for sure, but my recollection is, as I was mashing the gas to go, the revs were not really going up, or if they were, way too little for the throttle I was giving it. I drop down to second, and off we go. I keep the revs up all the way to the end of the backstretch in third. Then at about the 1:08 mark, I drop it into neutral to coast through turn 17 and on in to the pits. At about 1:19 or so, it just dies - shuts off. As I pull into the pits, you can see me reach for the ignition, and it refires no problem. This is the first time it has stalled out on me like this, but I had the power loss earlier in the day on a cool down lap on Sunday and a couple of times on cool down on Saturday. I also had the issue at Homestead in early March - same deal, on a cool down lap. ( Here's a video of it running hard with no problems - one gratuitous lap for anyone that cares here :D http://videos.streetfire.net/video/986S-at...ring_647711.htm )

Just a process of elimination. If it runs lousy or stalls when hot and in neutral this would eliminate other drivetrain issues and isolate the problem to the motor. If it only runs lousy and tends to stall at low rpms when hot and in gear I would look at the drivetrain. Does the car coast in neutral freely when hot? Sometimes a bearing will bind up when hot without making much noise. Yes, the car does coast freely in neutral. I've also checked the front and rear wheel bearings. I have thought about the clutch, but can't figure out why a clutch would slip only in that power range and only at the end of a session - all other times, the car runs flawlessly, and I am flogging it - no hesitations, no loss of power, no feelings of clutch slip, no strange sounds - nothing - until I let off for a cool down lap. I have trouble describing the issue. I'm going to look at my video from this weekend - maybe I will get lucky have have it on tape with sound and tach signal.

Have you any MAF data? Once I get it back together tomorrow or Thursday, I will gather some data on the MAF and post.

Just some thoughts: The DME is pretty sensitive to mixture and timing. If it were a mixture or sensor problem you would surely get a CEL and error codes. Is it burning oil? Any oil in the coolant? Does it only happen in gear or in neutral also? It sounds more like something is binding when fully heated up. I used to do some motorcycle racing and my track bike would sometimes act like this when it was due for a rebuild. Rings, bearings, CV joints come to mind. Hopefully something simple. Good luck and let us know what you find. No oil in coolant, or vice versa. No oil being burned. Don't know about the Q on neutral versus in gear. It has only happened in gear when I have slowed on track for something like an all black or the cool down lap. If I am due for a rebuild, wouldn't the wear have shown up in my oil analysis? It is coming back spotless time after time. And I just had an analysis. He said it was perfect. Rear CVs sound fine - I haven't taken them apart - just put my stethoscope on them.

Bump and an update. On the bump - I'm still hoping someone can tell me by looking at the pre-cat O2 sensor data, if I have a bad sensor or two. But in the meantime, I have pulled all the plugs - they looked fine - I replaced them since I had done all the work anyway. The coil packs also look fine; no corrosion, connectors were tight. I also pulled the MAF. It was perfectly clean. Idle is fine, so, while I haven't looked for vacuum leaks, it seems unlikely. Anyone hazard an interpretation of the O2 sensor data or have a theory???

I have some data on the pre-cat 02 sensors. I let the car warm at idle, then for each of these, you are looking at the pre-cat 02 sensors, starting at idle, and then run up over 5000 rpms, and then reved a few times, and then back to idle. I do not know what the specs should be. PDFs are voltage, sensor period and resistance. Voltage seems normal, but that is a guess. Resitance seems weird. Anyone see any problems here? resistance.pdf sensor_period.pdf voltage.pdf

2004 986S track car; 3.2L 20K+ miles 6 spd stock motor, stock intake, maxspeed (NHP) primary cats, no software changes There are several posts dealing with hesitation, but none quite match my symptoms. There is a complete loss of power when I get below about 3.5 - 4K rpms. There is no CEL, and Durametric shows no codes. Problem is getting worse - meaning it is happening more and more frequently, almost all the time when hot - and by end of track day on Sunday, while trying to keep it moving after experiencing the power problem, the car shut off. (cranked right back up though). I have to downshift to get the RPMs back up. I think I could replicate the stalling out by not downshifting. In other words, I think I could make it shut down, if, when experiencing the power loss, I just stayed in the throttle - it would drop off and stall out. It seems I only have this issue when hot - at the end of track session - not while going to the grid when cold - just at the end of a session. I recently put a new set of primary cats on, but the 02 sensor voltage readings on Durametric are normal, AND I had this problem for the first time before replaced the cats. BUT, the car was not hot when I tested the sensor voltage readings.... Guess I will take a look at MAF, check for vaccum leaks, take a look at the coil packs. Maybe change the plugs since they've never been changed. I also saw some postings about valve timing, but I am not sure how to check this. Or is this a fuel supply thing? Anyone have other ideas or experienced this before?

Any update with this? If it still doesn't start, check to be sure all the pieces that connect right behind the key switch are still all connected. One time on my 986S, the connection became separated, and while I got dash lights and other electrical stuff, got nothing when I turned the key.

I think there are four springs total: * two short tensions springs across the bottom, 997 352 721 01 * one long tension spring at the top, 997 352 723 02 * and the two compression springs, which it sounds like are the ones you stretched - I think they are 997-352-741-01 Other than the shoes, the adjuster at the top and the lock thing at the bottom, that is about it. Not much to break. I bet you are OK except for the stretched springs. I assume you stretched them enough that the shoes are hanging a bit loose?

ouch... i wonder if it is possible to just replace the ball joint? anyone know???

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000). Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve. Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey. Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now). If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding). Otherwise I think you have covered the big things. sounds good. he has a refurbished Bosch K-Jetronic Continuous Injection System tuned to a new moyer tank (no pop off valve) new head bolts an 11 blade fan a rebuilt battery chassis will have to figure out if it was orginally a calif car - probably not as it is here in FL not lowered appreciate the input wonder what it should go for

this mod actually helped to get the drivers side off in no time at all. BUT after removing the right side, I bent the threads on the ball joint........ I am assuming that i need to replace the entire control arm. depends on how much you bent them. i bent them on my rear control arm once, but not too bad. i used a small file to file away the two threads i bent very carefully, and managed to get the nut back on. i have since gotten a huge assortment of taps and dies because the filing was a little hit or miss. but study it - see what is bent, and see if you think you can remove a couple of threads - it is cheaper than the 200 - 300 control arm.

I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it. Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that. Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed. What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing? * has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted * does it have an eleven blade cooling fan * were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones * were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I went to advance auto and the tool they have to rent is the same as the one i have from napa. I can't get the ball joint connected to the control arm seperated from the hub that is behind the rotor. I am getting a little stredd b/c i can't find a tool to get this finished. I had trouble with the napa one - it didn't seem quite long enough - the lever did not sit fully on top of the threaded rod. If it is not fully on the rod, it can crush half of the rod. I like the Harbor Frieght one better, although the bottom jaw needed slight widening with a file. Also, you need to disconnect the drop link and the tie rod to turn the wheel carrier to get the right angle on the lower control arm to get the tool in. You also need to smash the rubber boot down so the jaw id up against the metal cone.