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ericinboca

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Everything posted by ericinboca

  1. A little farther north, I have positive experience with Gulf Performance in Pompano, and KMW Motorsports in Boca.
  2. Funny, its the other way around, the Dealer told me i need both "stabilizer Links" and they are $487.98 each, but the rear Control arm is only $404.13. I have been looking for these stabilizer links and can find some online at around $100USD for a pair etc, but not the part number i need (99634306992) they have all the other ones for Carrera, turbo etc, but it seems the part # for GT3 is different. do the other ones fit the GT3? or is the swaybar very different? Cheers Looney I am not sure. I use a GT3 sway bar on my 986, but use aftermarket adjustable drop links for it. I might be wrong on this point in thinking they are not very expensive - maybe the GT3 calls for a different style droplink than what is in the C2 or 986. I'd check with Sunset or Suncoast - they will know. Even if they require adjustable drop links, you can get aftermarket ones for half the price of what the dealer quoted you. You also asked if these changes can be done as DIY. That depends on your level of comfort. I do all my suspension work expect alignment in my garage. I don't think it is too difficult, but I am mechanically inclined. If you are reasonably skilled, have a good set of tools, you will save a bunch of money doing it at home. I'm not sure what the transverse arm does on the GT3 or how adjustable it is, but be aware that if it does have adjustability, you will likely need an alignment after changing.
  3. No image available Review Name: KMW Motorsports and Gulf Performance - SoFla Author Name: ericinboca Submitted: Yesterday, 02:57 PM Last Updated: Jan 21, 2010 - 02:57 PM Category: Accessories, Parts, Maintenance Items Two independents in SoFla - both recommended View Review
  4. MO When you say stabilizer links, I'm guessing you mean the sway bar droplinks? Those are pretty inexpensive. The trailing arm will be a bit more pricey. You can go rebuilt from a place like vertexauto.com or new. If you can find it, it is possible to remove the arm and press out the old bushing and put in a new. It is easy to find bushings for track use, but not so easy to find the regular street ones in my experience. In any case, try Sunset parts, a Renntech partner, and/or Suncoast, a Sarasota, FL dealer that usually has good prices. If you are going to use this as a street car, you will be perfectly happy with stock parts. For the pads, use any stock pad meant for street use - Pagid or others. When you say "skim" the rotors, do you mean have them turned? If so, you don't really need to do this. While race pad compounds are different than street pad compounds, they are compatible enough that you can install the street pads, and then bed them, and you will be fine. Before I made my 986 a dedicated track car, I use to do this frequently. Hope this helps.
  5. 2003 C4S CDR-23 head unit with multi CD changer in front trunk No PCM stuff installed The head unit cycles on and off, over and over again, showing only PORSCHE on the display and then going away, coming back, etc. I pulled the head unit out and checked the connections to be sure they were seated correctly - they were. I also checked the radio fuse in the panel and the 10 amp fuse in the back of the head unit. And I checked the connections to the multi CD player thing. Durametric gave me an error code that pointed the blame at the receiver, saying it is faulty. I don't remember the fault number with certainty, but think it was 54...would check it, but I am in Calif at moment and car is in Fla. I have an identical CDR 23 head unit out of my 04 986S (turned into a race car). Couple questions - How do I know it is the head unit and not the amp? In this car, is the amp part of the CD changer? (My 986S had an amp, but no multi CD unit.) If I replace the head unit, will I need a PST2 or PIWIS to tell the immobilizer the new head unit is OK? If I install the new head unit in my garage without a PIWIS or PST2, will the car start?
  6. I took a look at a 2003 996 C4S at the local mercedes dealer this morning. The car only has 5600 miles on it, and is new to their lot. They haven;t even washed it since they got it from previous owner. Previous owner traded it in for a Benz. I hope to talk to the previous owner to understand his/her expereince. I went through the car in excrutiating detail, and am skilled enough from maintaining and fixing my 986S race car to feel confindent in assessing it as mechanically sound. I could only find two problems: * the black paint has light swirl marks from a buffer * there is a minor alignment issue - toe I believe, as it pulls slightly to the right - I am comfortable it is alignment and not something broken in the suspension With these two exceptions, the car is like it is brand new. It was pretty amazing. They are listing it at $45901. Edmunds, with the options added, is coming in for dealer retail in outstanding condition, $38386; and clean at $36175. Anyone have recent experience? Interested in opinions on how much you guys think it is worth.
  7. Maybe too far south for you, but I recommend: * KMW Motorsports in Boca Raton (Kevin) * Gulf Performance in Pompano Beach (Vinnie) Both of these are outstanding. Likely neither have done the retrofit, but I would not hesitate with either of them.
  8. Thanks any idea on what could be broken or bent? If your caster is off, I would take a hard look at *thrust arm *thrust arm mount (on my 986, you have to remove the plastic wheel line to be able to see it both front and rear) *bushing in the control arm to which the thrust arm attaches *the top strut mount to be sure previous owner didn't do something funky like reposition the hole or put in some weird mount *and suspension sub frame (not sure if you are talking front or rear, and am unsure on the 996, but on my 986S, we were able to re-center the rear suspension subframe)
  9. You can get adjustable thrust arm bushings and/or adjustable thrust arms. Check out Tarett Engineering website.
  10. Suncoast Porsche in Florida. You can also get many parts through AutohausAZ.com. They have excellent prices and a huge warehouse in NJ that gets parts to NY often on the next day, with no shipping charge for orders over $50. No affiliation, but I have used both and have been very satisfied with their service. Regards, Maurice. I've used both listed by Maurice above - also add vertexauto.com
  11. First you will need about a 6ft cheater bar. Home Depot or Lowes will have 1 1/2 in steel pipe that you can slide over your breaker bar, get as long as possible. If you are using a extension from the socket to the bar, use a jack stand to support the pivot point. Have someone hold the brakes and then stand on the cheater bar. That nut is torqued to 340 ft/lb and you have to get some advantage with the 6ft bar. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S +1 This is how I do it - bit long pipe over a breaker bar. I tried it one time with a 3/8 socket and it broke - you need a 1/2 socket for the extra strenght - 340 ft/lbs is a lot of torque.
  12. Honestly, because I tought 18" was the smallest to fit on a 987S. I knew every secret of my 986, but I'm still very new with the 987 . But also because I had with the car a set of 18" track tire, and I wanted to keep the same handling/feeling as the stock one. I'm brigning a situation, but very opened to any suggestion because I know alot a peoples passed trough this exactly same question before me :) Is there advantage/desadvantage going to 17" wheel for the track ? Stock wheels on 987S are 8x18 and 9x18. what width are those 997 17" ones? I guess I don't want to go narrower, and I guess I can't really go larger. More choice in 17" wheels and tires - cheaper too. More torque, less straightaway speed.
  13. I have always stuck with the OEM wheels because I know they are quality (made by BBS) and I know they will fit. The fit being really important. It is hard to figure out which of the aftermarket ones will fit properly. With my 986S track car, I looked at a lot of aftermarket wheels, and struggled to find ones of the exact OEM widths and offsets. I was uncomfortable shelling out a bunch of bucks, then mounting tires, only to find they don't fit. There are some good aftermarket wheels out there at decent prices....OZ, for example. But it is the fit that I have struggled with. I go the route you have suggested above - buying used OEM wheels without real consideration with the look. (They are, BTW, easy to clean up and repair with some bondo, quality spray paint, patience and elbow grease, if you are so inclined.) I have found sets at places like LA Porsche Dismantlers, Oklahoma Foreign, Craig's List and here on renntech. (I have 4 1/2 sets of mounted race wheels at the moment - it is remarkable my wife has not kicked me out. :D ) Weight does matter, BTW - unsprung mass is bad for handling. But a lot of the OEM wheels available are pretty light. I use Carrera 5 spoke - light and strong. Now, there are Porsche knock offs. A lot of people use them, even on the track. The race shop I work with uses them on some race cars, but there will be people on this board that tell you never to use them. I don't know. If you are patient and spend some time looking, you will find what you need on the used market. BUT!! check the price against brand new ones - some folks are asking for too much. See what Sunset and.or Suncoast will sell brand new ones for.
  14. I'm not sure, but I think RFM is saying the cats are going bad and you are getting error messages as a result with the DME misinterpreting them as misfires at higher revs. Again, not sure, but I think what he is saying can be interpreted that way. If cats are going bad, it would be the primary cats - teh pnes that are part of the headers.
  15. When you order the Brembo rebuild kits, they send the grease as part of the kits. The little packages carry the brand name Brembo on one side, and on the other they say Kluber Lubrication, grease for seals assembly (in english and german) and have the number 04.2954.10. It looks like a silicone grease, but I do not know for sure. You can get kits, if you haven't already sourced them from somewhere, from Paragon Products in Texas - that is where I get mine. I rebuild my calipers in my 986S race car every year - frankly, they don't need them, but I do it for preventative/piece of mind reasons anyway. When I rebuild, I do not grease the pistons - only the sealing ring that sits in the seat in the caliper. I think it is OK to put a thin coat on the piston, but I do not do it because of dust build up. On my car, the boots melt and dust gets all stuck to the piston if it has been greased, so I quit greasing them. No problems at all with no grease on the pistons. (I do change the sealing rings eventhough I re-use the pistons unless they are damaged, which has never been the case - still using the original pistons.) Hope that helps.
  16. Not apples to apples as my 986S has 18" wheels and it is track dedicated (not autocross and no street use), but... With R compound tires, I have -2 in the front with slight toe-out; -2.6 in rear with slight toe-in. If I were making an educated guess as to what to do to an understeering autocross/street car, I definitely would give it toe-out in the front. It will probably make it meander slightly when going straight, but it is easily controlled in mine, and toe-out has been the biggest help to understeer short of adjustable coilovers, adjustable sway bars and a wider tire (which I do use to adapt the car for different tracks and conditions). For front camber, you have to decide how much you are willing to live with the tire wear consequences. I would think you probably need -1.5 in the front, but that seems like a lot for a car that is used mostly on the street.... (a little more caster angle in the front would be good too, but the 986 does not have caster adjustability without making some changes to aftermarket parts) You likely have toe-in in the rear now, which helps keep the rear where it is supposed to be - behind you. If you still have issues after giving the front toe-out, you can give the rear 0 toe to free it up some. So, I guess I am recommending toe-out in front; as much camber negative camber as you are willing to give it in deference to the need to drive it on the street; go -2 in the rear with slight toe-in. See what that does for you and adjust from there....decent starting point; better than factory settings.
  17. I'm on LA Porsche Dismantlers email list - just got an email from them advertising a sale on Porsche reman engines... I have no experience with these guys; just passing on the info.
  18. +1 for 1choir and docdyh. CPO is good. M97 motor in 987 versus the M96 in the 986.
  19. Do you know the part number? I stripped my '04 986S to turn it into a race car and have all the airbags (except steering wheel airbag) and the sensors.
  20. Sorry, you did not state above. Just jack the car up and remove the strut and spring assembly. Carefully hold the assembly and release the tension on the spring. Replace the strut and slightly compress to reassemble and install. Suspension pieces should always be replaced in (axle) pairs. So if you replace a spring or strut you should replace both. thanks Loren How hard is it? It is not too hard if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. You can get the strut and spring assembly out without removing the wheel carrier, which makes things easier. You: * have to loosen and remove the nuts on the rear strut mount at the top (you will have to move the black rubber like padding under the convertaible top cover to find the strut mount) * remove the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the lower control arm * disconnect the rear toe adjusting arm from the wheel carrier using a ball seperator tool * pull off any wires that are routed and secured along the back of the strut/damper assembly * I cannot remember if the stock rear strut has adjusting nuts to raise and lower (probably not) so use a spring compression tool to compress the spring to loosen it up some * take the top bolt on the drop link out of the wheel carrier where it passes through the bracket on the damper/strut * with some effort, and probably with a second pair of hands, you should be able to push the wheel carrier off the strut assembly and clear the bottom of it ( the lower control arm pivots up and down and does not have to be removed - this is good 'cause it can be hard to get off)
  21. FYI - I have found some NAPAs that do stock it in the store.
  22. Ah - OK Then I'm not sure you have an issue. PS2s are softer than a lot of other street tires as you note, and 15K out of them would not be alarming. The wear you describe sounds pretty normal, and the rears going away first is common.
  23. Can you tell where the leak is? Can you tell if it is engine oil or gear oil? Hypoid gear oil has a very unpleasant odor; engine oil smells like, well, engine oil ;) Ericinboca, Thanks for the reply. The leak seemed to be coming from the differential area....unfortunately at the time of the accident it was dark and the plastic under cover concealed the exact location. I did touch the oil...it was light in color and didn't seem to have a noticable odor, but then again I didn't put it up to my nose. I looked again at the car in the yard where it was towed and still wasn't able to see exactly where the oil was leaking from. My concern here is there may have been damage to the differential, the transmission, engine and/or the motor mounts due to the force of the impact imparted by the drive axle. The fluid that I saw leaking probably wasn't more than a quarter cup or so, but I didn't know how much could have been pooling somewhere else in the body and/or under cover. Any other areas that could have leaked fluid? With such an impact would you have concerns about damage to the suspension bushings? motor mounts or other components? A couple photos included. Thanks, Jim Most of the accidents i have seen from the 993 and up that involved rear suspension ended up cracking the transaxel. That hit looks hard enough for to warrent a new transmission in my opinion. At the very least the transmission should be removed and looked over. A small leak wouldn't surprise me at all. As for the other parts...I would look at the whole rear suspension, and get everything replaced that has a scratch on it. I'm with Seafeye. I'd be surprised if your axle is not bent or CV joint(s) not broken. If you speared your gearbox, you would know it, but it definitely got a whack. Suspension bushings do not have any fluid in them, but I think the front motor mount does, but it's not near the gearbox. I'd say likely culprit though, at least the one you would press for recompense on, is the gearbox. The mobil1 gear oil they use at the factory looks pretty much like motoroil - sort of standard oil/gold in color when clean and new. Moly gear lube is dark grey grease like stuff. Both have strong odors of sulfur.
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