tsweat

Yeah you need a new regulator. The one you have is worn out (cable stretched, pulley damaged, etc) and thats why its not dropping enough to clear the body. The motor pulls the cables but if there is any slack at all the window wont drop enough. The fact that its dropping period means everything else is working properly.

Thanks for the good info, I posted a similar question a while back and still have the same issue...

What if the window is not dropping at all, and also the "one-click" up/down will not work. In addition, when using the window switch in 'manual' mode it only moves 1/4" then you have to release and repress again and repeat until window up or down? :help:

Thanks Izzy, I will try it out tonight if time permits. Once again, great write-up and thanks!!!

Tim

Good-day Izzy-

It sure seems that our car's are sisters....as they keep having the same issues. :help:

My top is now acting up and stalling in either direction. The motor is running, but sounds "louder", so I am thinking that this may be due to low hydraulic fluid as you mentioned in the post. This weekend, I plan to try out your method. I have a few questions...

First, my stereo takes up the backseat area and is a pain to remove. It sounds like you are able to access the reservoir from the rear area (where the floded top sits). Is this correct? I do not need to remove the panel just behind the rear seats?? This would be great news!

Second, Is this on the drivers side, or passenger side? Are there "fill lines"??

Third, fluid -- any ol' hydraulic fluid will work you think?

Fourth, ever take any more pic's??

As always, thanks!!!!

-Tim

Final word on this, did get the new FOB's from our friends in Sunset, and had them programmed by the dealer.  Works like new.

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Izzy -- what did Sunset charge for the FOB's and how about the dealer programing fee?

Thanks!

Tim

UPDATE

WOW, what a difference this made. When I bought my car 2-1/2 years ago, the bonnet (trunk lid) popped up as I thought it should. Slowly over time it got worse until it would not work anymore and even triggered the alarm 'beep' fault. Today I finally got around to using Viper's tutorial and was amazed with the level of success. Not only did I save myself the time and money of going to the dealer, but the trunk lid now pops up with authority and a good two inches higher than it did when I bought the car.

Thanks again to all who helped me out on this one!!!

Bravo!!! :clapping:

-Tim

Wow...searched worked! :)

Any updates on this? My 99' 996 Cab is starting to do this on the drivers side door. Also of note, the window will only "move" in small increments when using the window raise/lower switch?? I unhooked the battery to see if it would reset anything and seemed to help for a day or two, but now its back. Any thoughts?

I would like to repair this issue myself if possible....

Thanks in advance!!!

Tim

Great Write-up Viper. Thanks...I will be using it this weekend.

-Tim

UPDATE

It has been 700 miles (took a road trip to Austin) since I cleaned the MAF and replaced the air filter. So far, so good -- no Check Engine Light and no funny business.

Hopefully this was the culprit (knock on wood).

If anybody has questions about the process, or what I did, let me know. It was all fairly straightforward.

-Tim

Tim,

what year is it?  I have a 99 and went through the same this past winter.  Got a new part at the dealer and replaced it.  They told me they keep lots of them in stock, very common problem with the spring that is coiled in there.  It is a very easy swap.

Once I took off the old one and fiddle with it, was able to bend the spring back to a very strong snap.  So probably won't be swaping it again but reusing the old one next time.  Good luck

Izzy

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Thanks for the heads-up Izzy. Mine is a 99' model and maybe it has just worn out as you suggest?? This weekend I will fiddle around and see what I find out and post the results.

Thanks again!

Tim

As far I haven't had any problems with bubbling or the material coming loose. I will keep my fingers crossed though ;)

I used a hairdryer to heat up the old material and then carefully / progressively pry it out. I left the old foam in its place, as it should be.

I used PPG paint and clear coat and the color is porsche polar silver. As is in og. alu-look kits I guess?

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Split. Check your PM. Are you here in Dallas (Valley Ranch)?

Hello All...

I have searched and read all questions and responses regarding error codes from check engine light notices. All provided insight, but I am still confused on what plan of attack MY SITUATION calls for...

First off, I posted a note many months ago when the first CEL came on, inquiring about a dirty air filter and if that could be the culprit. The light went away, so I figured no harm (filter seemed as though it had some more miles left).

Fast forward to now, and the CEL has been flickering on-&-off for about the last month, (I don't drive it that much). So this weekend, I checked the code (and cleared). I am receiving error code P1125 (Scan tool read out 'Fuel Air Metering Control'), Loren's list reads this code as (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Cylinders 4-6). This is the only error code listed from the scanner.

First Question: Cleaning the MAF Sensor seems fairly straightforward, is there any way that, if careful, cleaning can cause damage to an otherwise healthy sensor?

Second Question: Could it in fact be my first guess months ago of a dirty air filter that needs to be replaced? I will be replacing filter tomorrow regardless.

Third Question: Code is cleared, but will disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes "reset" the computer calibration for fuel/air mixture in case cleaning of the MAF and new air filter rectify the situation?

Thanks in Advance!!!!

-Tim

No problem.  FYI...I just checked out the warranty write-up for my switch replacement.  They indicated 1.5 hours of labor.  Very easy to do yourself if you don't feel like paying out that kinda cash for a switch replacment.

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Replaced mine myself. Under $10 part, and SIMPLE. The only hassle is removing the console, but that is fairly easy as well (just time consuming).

Could an air filter that needs to be replaced cause a Check Engine Light to come on? Just a standard air filter, no mods done to the system.

Thanks!

-TS

Well, if the seal were to actually "blow out" (instead of just leaking a little) you will know it as your oil light will come on and all of your oil will be on the ground. I've only seen two of those - one owner shut it down and saved the engine and the other didn't. Both were covered under warranty.

Time to stop worrying and start driving  ;)

:drive:

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Great info once again!! Thanks Loren!!

It really puzzled me (and worried me since mine is out of warranty).

-TS

I would like to upgrade my interior to the wood grain kit. The dealer costs are bit high (to say the least) Anyone know of any other location to get them?

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You can try e-bay -- but there is not too many wood parts there. Its mostly silver & carbon pieces.

You can try these guys. I have no experience with them, but was considering having them do the carbon look after I found them on e-bay.

Classic Trim

Other than oil spots under the engine, you won't notice any performance issues and there is no danger of blowing the engine. Just keep an eye on the oil level but it usually doesn't leak fast enough to even need to add a liter between changes.

Karl

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Two questions then...

1) So what is the 'danger' in not correcting the RMS if it fails? As, long as the engine has correct levels of oil, what can/and does go wrong?

2) Does the RMS failing cause the Check Engine Light to come on?

Thanks!

-TS

The process is in your manual.

However, your problem may be as simple as a micro-switch replacment.  Does the "BRAKE" light up on your instrument cluster when you pullup the brake handle in order to operate the top?  If it doesn't then you will probably need to replace the micro-switch that is connected to the e-Brake.

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This is what happened to mine. Simple replacement of a $5 part...

A few guys over on 6-speed have installed it with success in their 996's. I am going to give it a shot and will let you guys know how it works.

Thanks for the insight. I was not sure if you could purchase on the open market a timed relay, etc. Let me know if you get around to the implementation stage anytime soon. :)

I may break down and spend the $99 and not worry with the hassle...

Has anybody tried building their own relay for a "one touch cab-top" function?

I know the following company has done it Bahn Tech Autotop, but it does not seem that it would be too terribly difficult to make your own.

Any thoughts on how to go about it?

I used the thread that Loren linked to...

Since I have a cab and use all four slots for the windows I put the same (door lock/unlock) switch in the spot that you are wanting to use -- where the PSM goes. Mine works great and is actually much easier to access by just popping off the upper console. There is plenty of room behind there for the garage door opener to fit.

Let me know if you have any questions...

Tim

Not to hijack the thread fazzyb, but I too have a leak I would like to see if anybody can identify...

Any idea what kind of leak this could be?

The photo was taken while I was changing the oil yesterday so please ignore the obvious dripping and splash marks.

I am referring to the soiled area near the corner.

Yep, that was the culprit. I replaced it today and did the hack for the speed control. Now my top works again and I can move it up & down while the car is in motion. Pretty cool!

Thanks for your help!!

Any update from you guys that did the speed sensing mod, that has now also done the e-brake bypass altogether?

The reason I ask is that for some reason my e-brake engages just fine, however the light (and whatever sensor it hits) does not engage and does not let my top go up and down unless I use the key in the door trick.

any help is appreciated...

Thanks,

Tim

(long time lurker here at renntech and poster at 6-speed...)