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perryinva

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Everything posted by perryinva

  1. perryinva
    Actually, that was still very helpful. I hadn't thought to maximize the pressureon the zebra connector by putting the lower tabs in tight first. Good advice. I don't suppose you still have the extra funky faceplate you want to sell cheap? As long as it lights up, I can build one good one around those two, same way. All my buttons are in great shape.
  2. perryinva
    Well, I opened it up and there are no bulbs, it is LED lighting, 3 banks of 20, plus 1 in each corner, +2 where the alarm "set" red led is. The flashing red is still there, it's just the white ones (the yellow color is a film over the LCD display). So sinc eit's impossible for 65 leds to burn out, it has to be a dropping resistor on the supply circuit, or what appears to be a fuse labeled "4.19". I'll have to take my meter to is and see if has any value. If it's open, then I'll have to open up my working CDR-220, and see if it has a matching component and measure it.
  3. perryinva
    The LCD backlight on my CR-220 died, (I can still read everything in direct sunlight, and everything works) I assume it's the bulbs, but could be the dropping resistor. The faceplate LOOKS easy to open, but before I delve in there, I figured it was worth asking on the board if anyone has ever replaced the backlight. For a few bucks, it's worth repairing, but I sure would never pay the $70 that is being asked on ebay for a face plate. I have a CDR-220 to use in the meantime, so no big rush at all, but I like to use cassettes at times. TIA.
  4. perryinva
    You don't actually turn or adjust anythjing threaded..I don't think it's actually a thread, but lots of consecutive rings that appear to be threads. The shifter end snaps down and grabs the rings. Loren is correct, always better to count the rings (threads), then the shifter end HAS to end up in the same place. You do have to remove the center console again, but that's it. When in Neutral the shift knob should be pretty much plumb, but can be a little canted towards the driver. I've had the 997 one in mine for over a year, no issues at all, all better than original.
  5. perryinva
    I was not aware that there was a way to get the alarm to honk on activation. Any insights would be appreciated!
  6. perryinva
    These suspension parts don't have to be excessively worn to sound/feel loose. This front suspension is notorious for being noisy, rattley, and creaky. Any suspension sounds great on smooth roads. There is nothing dangerous or broken per se, but it is sure annoying. Highly unlikely its the shock mounts, if you have OE shocks and don't track then they last forever. Haven't read about any shocks failing at 44k miles either. Do a search on creaking suspension..tie rod ends, drop links, control arm bushings. They dry out and just start to make noise. Replacements are your only option. I bought all new strut parts when I installed my Pss9s, and nothing was worn, its the parts listed above.
  7. perryinva
    No kidding...my two remotes are identical, all black. When you program the button, do you hear a pretty quiet "click click click" as you're holding the button down? I hear it on both of mine..if you can't hear it on Button 1, maybe the button is just bad.
  8. perryinva
    Red key?
  9. perryinva
    You can also charge it just fine through the DC receptacle (cigarette lighter socket), with any of those smart tenders.
  10. perryinva
    I doubt it's the alternator again. In general, though, if you had a bad alternator and the battery drained (more than once) because of it, the battery is never the same. These are not deep cycle designed. The battery does more than just "start your car". The battery supplies instant current when required and regulates spikes, sugres and drops common on a variable rpm charging system. It is more correct to say the car runs everything off the battery, but the battery doesn't deplete because the charging system keeps up with over all losses. Most any modern car can be damaged/suffer issues if run off just the alternator and no battery. I'd be safe, since it's so cheap, and just change the battery.
  11. perryinva
    No, it's not.
  12. perryinva
    Do NOT use belt dressing on a serpentine belt. It states so on the spray cans. V belts sit IN the V of the pulley, so the dressing can help them seat properly. Serps seat against both the front and back of the belt and dressing actually makes them slip more. I have unfortunately proven this fact on a different car, and could not clean the old serp belt, which was only about 2 years old, enough to make it work properly again and had to buy another belt. All quiet again. I had been using Dayco belts, which cost a bit more, but just went to a standard grooved serp and it is quieter than it was with the Dayco. If you have a "performance" belt, that has a different pattern than just the grooves that match the crank pulley, then that is probably the source of the noise.
  13. perryinva
    I've never been able to find anything in writing that states that Water Wetter is safe to use with Porsche extended coolant. Water Wetter ststaes it's safe for all coolants, butit came out way before the Porsche extended stuff did, so I'm not sure it has ever been tested. ASny info you have on it would be great. I used it on all my other cars, and it was a noticeable improvemnt in temperature, but both my "03 Passat and the 996 have similar coolant that I'm hesitant to "experiment" with.
  14. perryinva
    Normally, if the alternator is good, it would read bewteen 13.75 and 14 VDC while running. A battery test is free at any auto store, so do that and be sure, first. I replaced a perfectly good alternator based on the EXACT SAME symptoms and logic you have and are using. And it was the battery all along. That battery was just over a year old. In general, batteries are the most common source of electrical issues, by far. A faulty battery can easily short the alternator output enough to cause the car to quit running. I thought the regulator was part of the alternator. Rebuilt ones with a core return are not that expensive at all, but it is the install time or labor cost that kills you. All but one bolt is easy to remove, and if you have a pair of swivel universals and a thinwall socket, it is not THAT bad either, suppossedly. ANY work in the engine compartment of a 911 is a PITA. There just isn't any room to maneuver.
  15. perryinva
    Just wanted to add that Porsche is one of the few makers that doesn't emblazen their logo on the glass, so as long as it's Sekurit, it will be the same as and appear to be the original glass. I haven't found the Sekurit to be soft like, say the BMW or VW windshields I have.
  16. perryinva
    Here is the side view pic of the car after lowering. I was wondering, if, since the final ride height is so low, as compared to many other 996's with PSS9's, the shock must be working in it's "lower" than normal position, in this specific case, would it be then allowable to raise the height above Bilstein's spec on the shock? Just wondering.... Absolutely correct, IMHO. Whatever the reason, your strut is operating closer to bottomed out by roughly 10mm, or a bit over 3/8"". Doesn't sound like much, but as a percentage of overall range, it is. I'd raise it between 1/4 & 3/8" or 7-9mm, which would still give you a positive rake, keep the designed fore/aft height relationship, and would help your camber settings as well. You shouldn't need another alignment, either for sucha small change. What were your starting numbers?
  17. perryinva
    What year and how many miles, minny? I knew the water pumps were a 75kish item, but the starter & alternators are news to me. Already did the coolant tank.
  18. perryinva
    WOW, 113mm front with the PSS9s at the highest level!!! That's 44mm lower than stock or 1 3/4"!!! Are you SURE? That is LOW. I'd never get out of my driveway if mine got lowered that much when I put on the PSS9s. The rear on your car at 28 mm lower or 1 1/8" is right on the 30mm that Bilstein specs (I thought it was 25mm, but I checked again and they spec 30mm.) What are your fender lip to ground measurements, in inches? I'd always make both sides camber even, but you HAVE to do it with weight in the drivers seat. Pics would be GREAT!!
  19. perryinva
    Not to be argumentative, but I'd say his indicated temperature in the above pic is much closer to 202F, than 215F, which is also a considerably more normal temperature. Most every gauge that is non-linear, like the one shown, puts non labeled hashes at 50% of the difference between labels. Obviously, these are not any type of precision indication, and on my '02, I can't do the climate control hack, but I'd put the first unmarked hash at 140F and the second one at 215F. I know when I hooked up my Autoenginuity laptop to the OBD port and monitored temps, when mine was just at the right edge of the zero in 180, like his, or a bit more, I was at 203F. To get there I had to have AC off, and drive in 3rd on the interstate at about 70mph. Otherwise, during normal driving and commuting, I never see that gauge move off directly between the eight and zero, or 195F.
  20. perryinva
    Interesting..I used a Dayco on my Dakota ("lifetime" warranty, supposed to be better mileage, less flexing resistance, etc) and it started squealing life heck when cold after 2 years..still looks new, though...put a regular belt from Autozone on it and totally quiet. I'd used Daycos on 2 other cars, never had a problem in the past. I put a new Conti on the 996, from Sunset, and it's quiet, too. What do you know about the Goodyears and Daycos?
  21. perryinva
    Mine squeals a little after car wash (maybe 2-3 seconds). I think thats normal. Doesn't mean its slipping. I don't see how water CAN'T get o the belt. BTW, there is a drain in the bottom of the airbox, under the air filter, that is normally covered with a small bracket with foam in it. On my '02, the foam was pretty rotted so I took it out, makes sure it drains easily. Don't want water collecting in there.
  22. perryinva
    Every can of belt dressing I've ever seen specifically says "NOT for use on sepentine belts". Serp belts lie flat against the pulleys, fan belts lie in the "V" of the pully, it is a temporary solution for a glazed fan belt that slips & squeals. I've learned the hard way, it's cheaper & easier in the long run to change belts. Getting that friggin dressing off is a PITA with degreaser. Sounds like the tensioner is shot, or the alternator or crankshaft pulley is glazed, either will cause the same issue. Depending on how many miles on the tensioner, cranking it back to take tension off (which winds the spring tighter) can often cuase it to be weaker when returned to the same position. I'd guess it's more likely the tensioner.
  23. perryinva
    Yes, same here, only installed it because I lowered the car.
  24. perryinva
    Proper level is when oil is cold and car level. Oil pump could be going. SInce it is repeatable, it needs to go to a good technician and have oil pressure measured when idling. Period.
  25. perryinva
    Bottom line: If you plan on driving it every day (or almost) you will soon tire very quickly of using the car cover. If it is a weekend/playtime/summer car, then get a cover. The really thick/stiff/multi-layer/ (NOAH) ones are a PITA to store and can cause something underneath to scratch the paint. You want the totally breathable ones that have no type of flannel or anything underneath, and are form fitted to the car and easily machine washable. They are usually around $250 - 300. They will last about 4 years of continuous use, before the elastic is shot, and they lose 80% of their water repellancy. I used a cover for 3 different covers over a 9 year period on my BMW before I moved to a house with a garage. The cover kept the paint and interior and top (cab) like new. I washed it about once a year. OTTOMH I can't recall what the make was, but it was the most breathable fabric with the best drap, Weathershield? maybe.
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