perryinva

So what do think of the flash? Worth it? Feel the difference?

No programming required, just plugs in. Very easy to swap parts between the two, if required. I used the LCD replacement kit on ebay for $55, took all of 30 mins to do, a swap out of a different unit is even less. There is a whole thread on it in the 996 DIY section.

That's too funny, I was just cruising ebay looking at Audi self dimming mirrors and wondering the same thing....the only real candidate at this time appears to be a grey one, but the pic is such that it may be black and washed out.....

Well that sucks..new longer bolts cost as muchas the spacers!! andd will rust again! I wonder if the SS ones I see advertised are truely strong enough...

It's the dealers due to the fact that Porsche NA HAS no records of service for you car. They are only kept at the dealer that did the work, according to my dealer. So unless the 2 PO's used your same dealer, you're SOL.

A Raby engine makes sense if yours is blown or has problems. But if you can sell a 3.4 and CAN afford a Turbo, then for someone that goes through cars regularly, the TT makes more sense, as it will hold it's value a TON more than a 3.4 with a new engine. IOW, if you do a Raby install, and it is $17k, and yours is worth $15k, there is no way no how you would EVER see close to selling your car for $32k, more like $22k the instant the engine is installed (I mean the rest of the car is the dated 3.4 996, with 110k + miles on the rest of it.) Even if a TT is $40k, a year later it's worth at least $35k. You'd be lucky to see $19k a year later, an $8k difference. You can sort out a lot of items for $8k. Just my $0.02. (BTW, while I could afford an "02 C2 with 37k miles on it last year for $32k (plus another $2k in fixes), I still could not justify a TT now, even at todays "reduced" prices.

I thought you didn't need new lug bolts if you only went 5 mm....is that not correct?

Search is your friend. This is a known (somewhat common) issue on '01 and older 996 and Boxsters as well. I don't recall what the fix was, but it doesn't go away, something to do with a check valve I think?? Search here or Rennlist..

WAY, WAY too many mint cars out there to even bother considering a car that may have damage. BTW, I'd definitely opt for a 2002 car if you can swing it. They are going for $30k and under with low miles these days. Bigger engine, less issues, many, many updates. Easily worth the $8 or 9k premium over a '99. Hi John - Thanks for the response, that's what I figured. However, I felt it was worth asking on the odd chance that was some known little weak spot. It is pretty disheartening as this car is just beautiful. Thanks again!

I'll be leaving the old ones on the original struts in case I decide to put them back in if I sell the car. You always tend to do better selling the upgrades separately. I may go so far as to assemble the PSS9's with all new parts and just leave the OEM strut assemblies together, if I can get them installed for enough less that it makes up most of the difference...Sorry. But, the stock OEM mounts are cheap from Sunset, like $50, or post inthe wanted sections..a LOT of listers have installed M030 sets and they come with new upper mounts. BTW, I'd be VERY careful driving the car with only 2 studs through the strut tower...one of the reasons I prefer 4 stud designs. if you are going with the x74 please let me know because some stupid guy broke one of the screw of my right upper mount,. if your old one is available for sale I am interested in buying it thanks please pm me

Kevin, what spoiler did you add, what suspension do you have and what is the front clearance? Thanks!!

No, not without some work. I looked into it as well, as I like them better than the 996 mirrors. The electrical connectors are different, as well as the mounting holes. The angles of the outside trim appear to be the same, so from an exterior cosmetic view, they should work. If cost were no object, and there was access to a body shop that did nice custom work, it would be do-able, though.

Also would REALLY like to know what the parts ran you.

OK, finally got a great answer from Gert, the X74 mount has indeed less & stiffer rubber than stock, and works as a great comromise between stock and monoballs with PSS9s. He's installed PSS9s with both. Another poster on a different board emailed me that he upgraded from USA M030 to X74, and noticed immediately the more robust design of the X74 mount and felt that the difference in the upper mounts accounted for a lot of the steering feel, FWIW. He noticed little if no increase in noise/vibration transmitted to the driver, (of course that may be masked by the the stiffer ride) but then he also didn't have a stock suspension to compare it too. I'm going to go X74, and take good pics of it for future posters.

Bump...no one?

Besides the price, what is the difference between 996 343 018 04 (stock, $86 list, same part has been replaced with new part number 997 343 018 00 ) and 996 343 980 08 (X74, $181 list) strut "triangles"??? Trying to find out if there is an advantage to use the X74 one with PSS9's BEFORE I install them...

His ARBs aren't adjustable. I didn't think a C4S (widebody) rear sway would fit a C2, as they have different part numbers...are you sure it fits fine? Any pics? Are those neg camber settings OK for street use or will they give excessive inside wear? Since your tires already have outside wear, those numbers are good, but what about with new tires, I wonder?

You had a good ploy going until you used the last name Nowegotcha...almost as bad as the law firm of Dewey, Cheatum, and Howe.

All the ones I've seen are shapped a little different, there is no hook, they have a curve and an indent that locks them in. If you can insert those keys and you feel/hear them "snick" into place, you should NOT be able to pull them out AT ALL, unless the radio is removed. Otherwise, they are the wrong ones. If they are locke din place, it sometimes takes a bit of effort to pull out the radio.

Did you have a CD changer & cable installed previously? If so, the changer cable needs to be unplugged.

SO are you going to just kill me with suspense, or are you going to give me details on what the "support" structures" are? The dash install looks GREAT..details please!!! Why didn't you do the rear side speakers the same as the dash? They look the same in stock form (though I know they are not, speaker/tweeter angles are different) I NEED details, what exact model speakers did you use, is the amp just for the sub?

I'll be doing a PSS9 install on my 02 C2 Coupe and I want to just install them with new upper mounts, bearing perches, etc. My current ones (42k miles) make noise at low speed, so I don't want to reuse them, plus then I don't have to dissassemble them to reuse the parts. I've been researching for days now and have a few questions. 1. If you look at the parts breakdown on the 996 front struts, there is a choice of the normal upper mounting plate and the X74 mounting plate. Besides twice the cost, what is the difference bewteen the two? Since a PSS9 is closer to an X74 than the stock setup, should I go with them? 2. Anyone have a complete parts list that has to normally be swapped from the old struts to the new PSS9's? 3. I assume that if I rarely, if ever track the car, then monoballs/camber plates are not worth the trade off in noise and harshness for street use? 4. I'll be doing this myself, most likely with a bud, and I have had the car up on 4 stands before, but it seems like there is no real advantage to doing that, vs just the front all up, and then the rear all up, correct? 5. Am I correct in assuming that I can go to heavier, adjustable sways at a later date w/o having to redo anything? 6. I'll get the car aligned & corner balanced after it settles a bit, and I dial in ride height.... new sways do not require any re alignment, right? 7. I've done struts before..they all have little quirks. I have the instructions on the ROWM030 install from Renntech that I am using as a basis. It does not mentions having to pop the ball joints, yet the Porsche manual and 986 instructions says to pop them. I have air tools, a fairly well equipped garage, a couple of jacks, and spring compressors, so what's really required? __________________

So you felt a vibration at 130MPH on snow tires and then ACCELERATED to 170mph to what, make it go away? If the tire shatteed, (not the rim), then it's probably because you exceeded the speed rating of the tire. Had you checked air pressure before going triple digit? What kind of fool pushes SNOW tires to 130 mph??? Did you think speed ratings were merely suggestions? Second, if you put the spare on the rear then you didn't RTFM!! Spare ONLY goes on the front, it's written in about 5 different places. You have to move a front wheel to the rear, and put the spare up front, THEN you also have to disengage the PSM or traction control, as the difference in diameters will cause it to activate all the time and burn up. This post has to be a spoof....no one does this kind of stuff to a Porshe..

Not the Xenon's..they have nothing to do with any noise. Noise is most likely alternator noise coming from speakers..maybe the Nav speaker. ABS should not come in easy...check air pressure and/or tire sizes..low pressure or mismatch size can cause ABS issues. Need a lot more info about your car before anyone else can guess.

MIne both work perfect...on level ground. The electronic one is VERY sensitive to any non level condition either side to side or front to back. The dipstick much less so. Dipstick rules, but gauge is a good check at gas stations or in your garage where level ground is more consistent.