crwarren11

These codes in combination for me have nearly always pointed to a vacuum leak in the intake somewhere. Cracked hoses or ripped rubber pieces have been some of my issues. The metal hose clamps can also cause some tears in the hoses. Sometimes it was just my improperly reconnecting everything after some work, or overtightening the clamps. For me the AOS failure was accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust - not only at startup but during normal driving.

I have done both, the full bracket replacement and the o-ring method. I recall the first time it was difficult to get the screws from behind the steering wheel. Partially due to the thread locker used, but also due to the rubber around the holes which was hindering the driver from turning. The screws are not left hand threads, they are standard right hand, but some will say that you turn clockwise because the screws are pointed toward you as you sit in the drivers seat. The screws themselves should still be turned counterclockwise to loosen them like a normal screw.

If the reservoir has never been replaced then I'd recommend it. You have clearly had some kind of leak in there given the red crud all over the trunk. Many 986 owners suggest changing the water pump every 30k miles as preventative maintenance, which I subscribe to personally as well. It is relatively cheap and an easy job. While in there, I would put in a low-temp thermostat. Same price as the standard one and your car should run cooler. Unrelated to this area specifically, but related to the overall cooling of the car, a good cleaning of the front radiators has always been very effective for me personally. It is amazing what gets stuck in there over a couple of years of driving. If yours have never been cleaned at 130k mi, then you will be shocked by the content. If you don't yet own Durametric, then I highly recommend it if you're going to keep the car for a while and you enjoy a bit of DIY work.

Hard to tell where the arrow is going but it sounds like you probably dumped from the coolant reservoir overflow hose, possibly due to an overheat or over pressure in the reservoir. I would first refill with distilled water to see if it will hold without leaking. You might have a bit of residue from the previous dump. Make sure it is filled properly and burp as much air out as possible without overfilling. Common culprit is the cap. Make sure you have the latest revision and/or that yours is functioning properly. I would start there. If you confirm you don’t have latest revision then replace it, refill with distilled water first to confirm it solved your problem and then properly refill with coolant.

The reason I suggested the heater valve was due to personal experience with it being a culprit in an overheating issue for me previously. On a Tiptronic, though, and I believe it has additional utility on the tips.

Next thing I would check is the heater valve, 928-574-573-03. There is a diagnostic procedure for this to see if it is bad, but I don't recall the process off-hand. Have you also checked temperatures for coolant and oil with Durametric?...just to confirm if things are running hotter than they should.

Great!

Sorry...The California Transmission Supply Company. www.thectsc.com.

Try CA transmissions. They sold me factory ZF parts directly. They might have the part you’re looking for.

Given the D/4 limp mode, there should be codes stored for the transmission. Check with Durametric and hopefully that will provide some guidance. It is odd to me that the car drives normally in limp mode. Any time I have gone into limp mode, the car is only in one gear and does not shift (reverse will work). Manufacture date codes on batteries can vary so it is hard to say for sure, but my guess is that the important numbers are 758 which indicate October 2017. Additionally, Varta batteries used to have a date code engraved on the negative battery terminal, and there is not one on yours. That terminal appears to be a little beat up in your image. Varta may have stopped doing that, though, there is a lot of conflicting information out there. H6 and H7 are the case size, and H6 is the correct size for the 986. Some of the 911's (and I'm sure other Porsches) use the H7 and H8 size. Of course, price increases with case size (i.e. battery capacity), so the H7 quoted is more expensive than the H6 installed. Yet another indication of shady behavior and poor business practices.

Are your temperature and gas gauges working? Also, check the gear selector switch and plug while you’re under there, given the mismatch between displayed and actual position. There is no reason why the plugs should have been removed or damaged but there’s also no reason based on the work performed that your car should be having these problems. I like to look at the simplest things first. I fill coolant level to full if low when the car is cold. The level will always show full when the car is hot and has been running. And you don’t want to open that cap when the car is hot! It may have been overfilled and is now pushing out the excess as mechanic mentioned. There is an overflow hose coming out of the bottom of the tank so you can check there if that appears to be the source of the coolant. Battery is not something I know about so will have to leave that to the experts. Did you confirm manufacturing date? It is always posted on the battery and should be a very recent date if they truly gave you a new battery.

First off, I feel for you. I've been in similar situations before I really started to DIY this car and I am still far from an expert. Not dissimilar to what you describe, taking it in for a simple service turned into a very long job (big red flag), and ultimately resulted in major transmission and cooling system damage. I would focus on transmission first. My first check would be the transmission wiring harness and plug. Maybe they damaged it, or did not plug it back in properly/completely, or got some oil in there that is causing a short between the pins, which is causing the speed, etc. to not be displayed on your cluster. Since they put on a new transmission pan seal, maybe they accidentally damaged one of the plugs/sensors on the valve body, but I would expect that to issue a transmission code to Durametric and throw you into limp mode (D - 4 blinking lights). You mentioned airbag and seatbelt codes, which again I can't imagine are related, but I would have the codes read again to see if they have reappeared, and at the same time make sure to have the transmission codes read. Just FYI, a transmission code will not cause your check engine light to come on, so unless one tells Durametric to check for them specifically they do not show up under the typical engine codes. None of this explains A/C issue, but since your original quote mentioned to fill A/C, maybe they bled and did not fill? Can you tell if there is a change in rpm when you activate a/c? There should be a slight change when the clutch engages the compressor. I have never checked a/c system pressure on my 986, but have done it on BMW's and it is an easy check with a tool that your local auto parts store will usually loan out for free (or check for free). Front radiators should activate when A/C is turned on. Make sure the snowflake light is on (sorry for being Mr. Obvious). Coolant leak: wonder if they filled properly or if there is a bunch of air in the system (I see "top coolant" in their quote)? Make sure tank is filled to proper level and you can try to flip the bleed valve and drive with it open for a few days to see if it helps. Continue to check your coolant level in your tank and refill when the car has completely cooled off (if coolant level is low). Battery: hard to say, but doesn't sound like there is a huge problem to me there, other than the shenanigans pulled by the shop, and the price for that battery is absurd. If I leave my car without driving for a week then the battery is usually drained. Maybe that's not normal, but normal for me. Personally never had any issues with the instrument cluster and haven't heard this as a major issue with these cars. In the least it would be too coincidental that you have a cluster problem just after having work done by a shop that sounds questionable at best. All the problems you are having sound very shady to me. We've all heard the nightmare stories of shops causing problems purposely: A simple clip of a wire or pull of a fuse that they know the exact location of is an easy fix that they can charge thousands of dollars for, but can be a nightmare for someone else to diagnose and find in a sea of wires, components, fuses, etc. Ok, yes, I'm a bit of a conspiracy theorist, but I've been burned in the past.

Definitely recommend a low temp thermostat. If you never cleaned the radiators then you will be shocked and that could help a lot. Most importantly, don’t give up, it is probably something simple!

Check this post for reference. Some good info Fuel System Testing - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 993 Forum - Fuel System Testing - This thread is going to be about testing the fuel system. In Part 1, instructions are given for checking fuel pressure and...

Having recently gone through a fuel pump replacement and a crankshaft position sensor replacement, I suggest going through the diagnosis process. Check the fuel pressure, check the fuel pump relay, short the relay and confirm the fuel pump is running. As a first timer for a fuel pump replacement, I had no idea what I was listening for but I can tell you that you can hear it whirl without any difficulty when it runs. You can also apply 12v directly to the pump to confirm if the pump is the issue. In my case, the CPS was not the problem, it was the fuel pump, but not having gone through it before all signs seemed to point to CPS. No tach jumps is more indicative of CPS but I would also make sure the fuel pump runs and is providing pressure before assuming it is the CPS. I use durametric and tried several generic obd2 readers with no luck. I’m not aware of any other good options for Porsche’s.

With engine running and in park (with temp still low), fill with atf. Once fluid trickles out, with brake pedal pressed, move selector gear to each position and hold for about 10 seconds. Add more atf until it trickles out again. Check temp of atf inside trans. I usually use a digital probe. Temperature must be between 30 and 40C at final check and filler screw must be put back on before 45C. Otherwise too much atf will be expelled and it will be low.

Well, based on that you may be low on atf. Sorry I don’t recall the proper temperature range off the top of my head but I can let you know tomorrow. The several times I have changed atf, it didn’t require running until fans coming on before reaching temp. So you could be running way higher than necessary during filling. You might also consider the heater valve to make sure it is opening to let the coolant flow through the atf cooler. I had a tiptronic with intermix issues that worked well at low temp but once warm it would not function. Definitely others here with more experience than me on these things.

Was engine running and atf filled per the procedure (heated up to particular temperature range)? As you probably already know, the engine oil intermix can be a sign of several other issues that could be pretty serious. Is there intermix in the coolant?

By oil cooler I assume you mean atf cooler? Did you replace the atf? If so, was the correct fluid used? Is the atf properly filled to the correct level? Any evidence of intermix in the atf? Durametric will read trans codes...anything there?

Ok perfect. It does spin freely. As always, thanks for the help!

Trans is out. Screw is found in the engine webbing, one bump away from hopping into the TC / flywheel. Question...the torque converter did come out. I thought my Allen was in deep enough but apparently not. All seems good but I know JFP has posted elsewhere about the risks of the TC coming out. Anything I should consider before reinstalling? Thanks!

Thanks for all of the advice. I am almost ready to move the trans. Coolant lines are clamped off but had to stop late last night at the point where I couldn’t easily remove the soft lines from the hard nozzles. The ring clamps are off but the lines are really sealed on there good. Once I get those off then I’m ready for the trans mounts to come off and the bolts connecting to the engine and then it should be freed. [emoji1696]

Of course! Any tips are greatly appreciated!

I similarly replaced my dash speakers about three years ago with Polk audio DB401 and metra 71-017C wires. Retained stock baskets etc. as ttocs explained. $70 for everything at crutchfield. If you don’t have already, a set of torx Allen keys is helpful to remove the screws from the speaker covers.

Hi guys, Anyone have a good guide for tiptronic removal? Of course there are plenty for manual trans. I had a friend help me with this about ten years ago who knew all the tricks but he has since relocated. My Porsche manual isn’t very specific and references several special Porsche tools for locking torque converter position and several other things. I don’t specifically remember doing this last time but he was the one running the show that time around. I have everything out of the way and ready to disconnect trans from engine but don’t want to continue until I know everything else that needs to be done in advance. Thanks for your help!