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Everything posted by crwarren11

  1. Ok thanks again. I’ll continue to monitor for now and see if I can conclude where the problem is.
  2. Thanks JFP. Wouldn't the continuity checks and resistance measured indicate that the harness and temperature sensor are ok? I was expecting the harness / temperature sensor to be the culprit when I started down this path based on the other posts that I have read about these issues, but the electrical checks appear to indicate that they are ok. I forgot to mention that driving/shifting have not been any different than normal...in case that is any indication of the control module itself.
  3. 2000 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic, 115k mi. I am chasing a P0710 (DTC 37) error code (using Durametric). Consistent with the repair manual, I checked continuity and resistance on the appropriate pins at the transmission socket and at the ECU connector, all good. I checked ATF level, also good. As the repair manual states, the heater valve is always open (allowing coolant to flow to the ATF cooler). I confirmed mechanical operation of the heater valve by pulling the SAI vacuum hose off of the changeover switch (99660512301, now 7PP906270) and noting that the lever on the heater valve is operating. The changeover switch is pulling vacuum at completely cold start, confirmed at the nozzle on the changeover switch. I understand that the ECU should not be telling the changeover switch to allow vacuum to the heater valve because the temperature is ~25C at startup (with matching resistance measured at the pins ~1.05kohms). My question is...should I conclude that the changeover switch is malfunctioning or is there something else I should be looking for as a cause? I have read that these switches go bad on other vehicles, but have not seen anything specifically about 986's having this problem. Thanks for your help!
  4. That’s great but you might want to look into why the code was triggered. I didn’t know the snap on tool would read transmission codes!
  5. Yes this is limp mode / telling you there is a problem. You’ll need durametric or the actual Porsche system tester to see the transmission fault codes.
  6. Man I am having a hard time remembering exactly but I think it is in the same harness as the o2 sensor or just above it. You should be able to follow the cable from the CPS to the plug harness especially if the o2 sensor is disconnected and out of the way.
  7. After replacing the fuel pump it was obvious what the noise of the fuel pump running was supposed to sound like. Since this was my first fuel pump job, I never knew before, but it is a very distinct noise you can hear either from the area under the hood near the battery, or some have suggested listening into the fuel filler with the cap removed. To me it is a buzzing noise, kind of like one of those small drones makes (like the ones you would buy for a 5 year old, not the big ones for us adult children). I did all the jumping methods for the relay, etc. and never got the noise. Also tested the pressure at the schrader valve, which was 0 at all times. What threw me off initially was that I kept reading the telltale sign of a bad crankcase sensor was that the tachometer would not bounce when trying to start. Mine did not, so I thought that was it. As I mentioned earlier, my sensor was fine. Hope this helps...
  8. Diagram I can't remember what thread this was on here, but I saved an image when I was working on it.
  9. Here are a couple of links I used. Let me see if I can remember how to post pics/documents here... https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/925886-fuel-system-testing.html https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34302-ignition-turns-over-engine-wont-start/
  10. I would go through the troubleshooting process for fuel pump to see if that gives you any guidance. Relay is one possibility or the pump itself. My pump went out around 100k mi and 19yrs. I also replaced the crank sensor because I thought that was it. Nope...just the fuel pump.
  11. This is not your exact model, but gives you an idea of what the hose (red-dashes) looked like before:
  12. My guess is that the previous owner cut out the flexible section of the tube and then capped it off. It was probably torn/leaking in that section and that was his "solution". There are probably some MacGyver solutions to rejoin the tube sections, but I wouldn't personally mess with it. I'd just put the right part in there this time around. I replaced this part on mine many years ago after I damaged it during some transmission work. I don't remember all the details, but I also don't remember it being particularly difficult. You can use screw-type hose clamps instead of the oem ones which require the hose clamp pliers ($30 on amazon for a nice one if you prefer to go that route).
  13. Looks like you probably need a new oil hose 99610725403. Porsche part is $64 on rmeuropean. Other decent sources are PelicanParts or Sunset Porsche Parts. If you haven’t yet, search the web for the boxster catalog of parts. Should be named KAT520_USA_986_04_KATALOG. It will have the diagrams you need to identify which parts you need, along with part numbers. You might need a couple more things to solve your issue.
  14. Yes it is a much different class of car that you are talking about compared to a 986 Boxster. Obviously the G is going to be more powerful and exciting than an old 986, but compared to your other options it just wouldn’t be my choice since I have driven it side by side with some comparably prices cars that were much better. Only my opinion though. If you don’t like the looks of the McLaren then that would definitely not be a good choice for you! I personally like them but I’m not seriously considering one! best of luck in your search. Let us know what you end up with!
  15. I mean, you’ve got it there so might as well take a peek. I’ve had my TB out so many times over the past few months and I can’t tell you how many times the boots haven’t been seated correctly causing the same codes. Usually on the bottom where you can’t see that they’re actually not joining the tubes correctly.
  16. Considering the things you have recently done, I would check the Rubber boots around the throttle body, as well as those around the intake plenums. These are common, especially at the age of your car to tear. Also if you don’t have them properly seated between the plenum and the throttle body then they will throw these codes. It is almost certainly a vacuum leak and something that you can find with a bit of effort. I have personally ripped those rubber connectors several times, and have over tightened the clamps to create rips or leaks in the vacuum. Just look around and I’ll bet you find it.
  17. Well this should be a fun one! Among the options you mentioned, I would strongly consider the 458. I hear it regularly regarded as one of the best overall super cars, and unlike some of the others that you mentioned it is drivable around town and not so low to the ground that you are going’s to grind on every bump or driveway. I don’t personally know a lot about these, only by reputation. A friend had a 911 turbo S for years that was his favorite car ever. He is now driving a 458 which he loves, so I feel like that is a pretty good testament. I would also strongly consider one of the McLaren options. Again, not knowing much about them, their reputations are very good and always hear very good things about them being incredible drivers. I would need to put them head to head to see how my preferences lined up. I have driven a Gallardo several times and honestly was not impressed. Felt clunky and a bit cheap to me. Performance was eh and brakes felt horrible. On one occasion did a side by side comparison with a GT3 which absolutely blew the Gallardo out of the water. Power, handling, braking, drivability we’re all far superior in the GT3. Past all the driving characteristics, I would personally look at the current market values of each of these and where they are expected to go. Ferrari’s, lambos, McL will always have a strong argument for collectibility and future value. If any of your final options have appeared to bottom out in value already then I’d lean that way. As you said with the Boxster, these things are dirt cheap now, so anything I buy now I try to have a strong rationale that, with good care and reasonable driving, the car shouldn’t depreciate any further and will hopefully be worth more when/if I decide to sell it. I had the chance to buy into a group of new 918’s at $600k several years ago. Man am I kicking myself daily for passing up on that since they are arguably worth 3x that now. Anyway, another story but things like that have definitely shaped the way I think about buying cars now from a value standpoint. When you are in the league that you are discussing, nearly all of the options are amazing cars so if you need a reason to go in a particular direction then consider near future value. Interested to see where this discussion goes!!
  18. Just to give you some peace of mind, I did the original sensors on my 00 986 with +110k mi and they came off easily using a simple box wrench. One of the sensors on the right side is a bit of a pain to access the plug. Definitely recommend taking off the wheel for easier access. Also, one bit of caution is that I have received a bad “new” o2 sensor that immediately led to codes for o2 sensor heating which was a new/different code than I was getting originally. I was convinced I did something wrong but found somewhere how to check the resistance between the pins on the sensor plug which confirmed that the sensor itself was bad.
  19. I finally figured this out in case it helps anyone. The broken line was hiding from me. It is not very visible because it was the one right beside / behind the vacuum reservoir that goes to the switch right there. The switch is also not visible but since I knew that I had confirmed every other line I knew there was one hiding in there somewhere. The diagrams are misleading as to the distance between the components of the SAI system. This particular switch and line are most easily accessed by removing the intake plenum on the right side of the car. However I was able to get in there with some long and small surgical instruments to grip the elbow hose, pull out the end of the broken line, and feed in a new line which I routed in a more obvious way if it ever breaks again.
  20. I’ve never used a smoke tester so I can’t provide any guidance there, sorry. I have seen some YouTube videos of guys using cigars instead 😁
  21. Hi all, Over the past 6 months I have now broken 3 convertible top transmission cables (i.e. motor-to-transmission p/n 986 561 717 03). This is after not breaking any of these cables for the first 19 years of the life of the car. I believe what is happening is that the motor is being allowed to run too far past the fully open and closed positions (seems most likely the top-closed position as the breaks have occurred 3 of 3 times when the top is closed or closing). After reading many of the posts about the microswitches that control the power to the convertible top motor, I believe this is likely my root cause. However, I am unclear which switches I need to check for my model year (2000). I understand that I have the later-version transmissions which have a switch inside the transmission case and I confirm that this is the model that I have. I thought this was the switch that controlled power to the motor and to turn off the dash light. But I am not sure if I also have the switch in the B pillar (986 613 767 01) and/or the switch in the roof (986 613 101 02), or if/how these switches control power to the convertible top motor. Many thanks for any guidance you can provide!
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