03BoxsterS

Hi phillip, actually it had 9600 miles on it when I bought it in 2006, now it has about 22,000 miles on it. Thanks for the info on the DMF. I did not abuse the clutch, but the clutch pedal has always taken a lot of effort to push down, even when I first got it. To be fair, the indy I talked to on the phone is not aware of the mileage, so maybe he'll change his tune once he has a look. But I need to be prepared for the worst here, and that means as much knowledge as possible. Clutch experts, please help!

Ok, so the Sachs clutch kit is in, I've arranged to have it replaced by an indy shop next Tues. Got a decent price (for this area, anyway) and the guys seem ok. I haven't used them before, and the only thing that's bothering me is they talked a LOT about replacing the flywheel. They asked if the clutch was slipping, and I said a little, mostly it was just a hard pedal. They said if it was slipping most likely they would have to replace the flywheel. So here's the questions: How do I know if these guys are being straight with me? What do I do if they call me in the middle of the repair and tell me the flywheel is shot and my bill is tripled? Is there a sure-fire way to tell if a flywheel is gone? Also, they said the dual mass flywheel could not be polished or resurfaced. Is that true? Thanks Clutch-less & Clue-less

Thanks, that helps. That's interesting - I asked if I got the nut with the ball pin, and they said no - it was just the pin I am getting. Which means I have to come up with a washer somewhere..... Excellent, thank you, that is what I was hoping to hear. Yes, I kinda wondered about that. I should run a flexible wire or something down the drain tube to make sure it is open. Another good idea, although the only time this car sees any water is when I might get caught in the rain while driving. It's in the garage at home and work. So that means I better check extra carefully for foam tears. Thanks, Maurice, you've been a big help.

One other question: When I re-assemble this thing, should I use loctite on the nut to keep it from falling off again? There doesn't appear to be any kind of lock washer or anything to keep it from backing off over time. Thanks.

Hey clickman, I did not have a flat green piece in my kit, so don't really know the answer, but it's not installed in my boxster and I haven't had any issues. The only thing that was green was a curved plastic thing that snapped onto the shaft, which I think is the alignment tool, but I didn't have a clue how to use it so I didn't mess with it. And you know how wonderful those typical (read nonexistent) Porsche instructions are. I think if you don't mess with the cables (other than unsnapping the new ones from the new shifter and putting on the old ones) you shouldn't have a problem. I didn't.

ericinboca, thanks, but I'll just pick one up at the local Porsche dealer, mostly because it's convenient. Hey all you guys down in the US, don't complain about costs - the renntech.org price finder gives me a price quote of $8 US, and my friendly local Canadian Porsche dealer wants $20 CAN. Even with the exchange rate it's a major rip-off. A clutch kit for my boxster - $1000 CAN from local dealer, $318 US for a Sachs clutch kit from the US. This is why I mail order most of my parts from the US. Three cheers for the US !!!

Thanks 97-boxster. Good point on the threads - I did check the nut and they are fine, I'll check in other spots as well tomorrow. The tips on both sides of the car on mine are white - maybe they changed to white with later model years? Or perhaps both of mine have been changed. Any other parts that might have been stressed by having the operating link unhooked for several months?

2003 Boxster S 3.2L Manual Several months ago I changed my air filter on my boxster. I accessed the engine compartment the usual way, and used the strap to hold up the top while I was in the engine compartment. Changed the filter and buttoned everything up. Afterward, I noticed my convertible top was a little mis-aligned; when I closed it, the drivers side didn't close all the way, leaving about a 2 inch gap. I thought maybe I had twisted or bent something while using the strap to hold the top up, as it did take some effort to put the strap in place. Messed around with it but couldn't see anything obvious. It didn't seem to be a big deal, as I could just reach up and pull it down with my left hand while latching with my right. Been like this several months now, and I put the top up/down half a dozen times a week, no problems. I recently got out the Bentley and decided to take a closer look to see if I could find anything, it was kinda nagging at me. Long story short, the "Convertible Top Drive Operating Link (red-tipped)" (Bentley name) was not even attached on the driver's side! The ball pin (part 986 561 879 00) and nut were gone. I found the nut down below near the drain hole. Apparently the ball pin fell thru the drain hole and tube and is long gone. I assume the nut was loose when I changed the air filter, and the stress of using the strap to hold open the top made the nut pop off the pin. The solution is simple; I just need to order a ball pin and install. But I have two questions: 1) Bentley refers to the operating link as "red-tipped". Mine's not - it's white. Am I messed up here, or did they change the color? 2) Have I done any permanent damage to anything? If I have, what is the most likely part to be damaged? Thanks

Atle, thanks for the info, I suspected from the posts I read and the drawings I looked at that each model version might react differently. I'd really like to try the EVO intake and see what that does, but right now I don't want to spend $380 and deal with possible MAF check engine lights from oil in the filter. Maybe one day.

Thought I would see what all this snorkel brouhaha is about; I know this thread is old but some of us are slow. I have an 03 Boxster S and like everyone else, want to find good, inexpensive ways to make the car better, all the while respecting the engineering giants that put this sweet little machine together. I read all the posts on this forum and others, trying to figure out if any of it made sense. "It's there to modulate air intake temps, don't mess with it" and It's to keep out rain" and It's to reduce noise", "It prevents turbulence and increases air flow", etc, etc. Then it's time to see for myself; I figure the worst that can happen is I break a few silly clips, and the upside is I learn something new about my car. In the end, that's what all this is about, isn't it? First, I took ToolPants advice and ripped out the foam on the stock air filter. Took 'er for a spin. Nothin'. Nada. Absolutely no change in anything. Maybe I should get my hearing checked? I didn't stand on the throttle, but I did get it up to 7k rpm. Wheeled back into the garage and proceeded to remove the intake cover, removed the small plastic screen, popped out the snork, and wiped everything down with a damp towel to clean out the dust. Let me tell you, those Germans must assign either the rookie engineers to design those clips, or else the oldest, crotchety-est engineer b**t**d on the staff, one of the two. Whoever did it doesn't like guys to work on their own cars, for sure. But I got everything out without breaking a clip, it's a darn good thing that front one is really flexible! Time for another spin. Took it up gradually to 7k rpm in first and second, then I'm already over the speed limit. I really didn't notice much, even at high rpms. Turn around, flip on the Valentine, and basically let it rip like I'm at the track, up into 4th. Ok, now I can hear something, it is noticeable. Is there extra power there? I can't tell, my seat of the pants dyno is not that sensitive. Kinda doubt it, tho. What do I think the snork is for? The temp, turbulence, and sound arguments make sense to me. The snork provides a straight, direct path to the intake, and the air flow is more likely to be laminar rather than turbulent. Since it's a direct path, there will be no mixing with other air in the surrounding chamber (which is small and sealed from the engine bay), and it likely will be slightly cooler when it reaches the engine. I live in a cool climate so I don't think the temp will affect me much, unless I have a hot day at the track. And it is a bit louder without it, but only when I'm really rippin' on it, which isn't every day because I don't like to drive like a maniac on public roads. Should you take it out? If you want to. I really don't consider it a critical piece of equipment one way or another. These cars are fun to work on and the snork is a pretty harmless way to spend a little time messing around with your car on a lazy afternoon. 03BoxsterS

geoff, thought I would say thanks for a good writeup - I put it to use tonight, installed a 997 short shifter in my 2003 Boxster S. I saw that Carlsen Porsche in San Fran had them on sale for $305 US, so after reading your writeup thought I would give it a shot. The original shifter worked fine and was quite smooth, but always seemed a bit sloppy to me. I did exactly as you described; used the B&M shifter installation instructions (B&M Short Shifter Instructions) up to STEP 16 and then switched the shift cables with ends attached. The B&M instructions were great for dis-assembly and re-assembly of the console. I didn't even break anything, which is a positive for me. To dis-assemble the console and get the shifter installed took less than an hour. Then I messed around cleaning normally hard to reach places, since I had everything apart. I did have one problem with a wire that connects to the glove box, couldn't figure out how to get it re-attached, but I decided to deal with it later. I started at 7:45 in the evening and was test driving by 10:00. The new shifter definitely shortened up the shifts, it felt like more than the 20% advertised by Porsche, and I love the feel of it. It is a little harder to shift and a little bit notchier, but I imagine it will loosen up a bit. At any rate, I think it was a great little project with excellent results. Thanks again for the help. 03BoxsterS

Carlsen called back, said they gave me the quote for the pressure plate only, full kit is over $800. Looks like it'll be a Sachs.......

Here's a good website with brake fluid details: Brake Fluid Specs

bilabonic, I use the Motive Power Bleeder and they tell you not to exceed 20 psi. The reason is that the brake fluid reservoir is not positively connected; it just rests on top and has gaskets preventing the fluid from coming out. I know this because when I bled my brakes, I had the reservoir pressured up with about 20 psi, and I accidentally hit the reservoir, and fluid came squirting out the bottom, bypassing the gaskets. I thought I had cracked the reservoir, but I had only caused the gaskets to temporarily lose their seal, letting a little fluid come out. I cleaned it up (oh yes brake fluid definitely eats paint, thank goodness it was on the inside of the boot) with alcohol and it was all good. 03Boxster S

I recently bled my brakes and I was looking for a hi-temp fluid since I auto-x the car. I ended up with Motul RBF 600, and I'm quite happy with the results. Pedal is rock hard and good performance at the track. Not the cheapest fluid you will find, but good stuff. 03BoxsterS

Ordered a Porsche clutch kit from Carlsen Porsche in San Fran for $429 US. Lowest price I could find other than the Sachs kit, which is $360 at several online places. Since I'm providing the parts, I elected to go with the actual Porsche part just for insurance. Kevin

Thanks boxstaboy and artster, interesting and helpful feedback. This is what I have done: I picked up the car and took it for a second opinion. This shop was recommended by a PCA friend that had used them before and liked their work. They took it for a drive, did a quick no-cost assessment and also let me sit in a few other Porsches with good clutches and work the pedal. They did think there was a problem with the clutch, but said it wasn't an emergency situation (the other guys said I could blow up the tranny at an auto-x). They noted the heavy pedal, and said they could detect a minor amount of slipping. After having worked a few clutch pedals in other cars, I agree mine is definitely heavy (my wife has always said it was heavy but she's a girl). They gave me a quote that was 25% lower than the first shop. I asked if they would allow me to purchase the parts myself to save a few more $$, and they were agreeable to working something out. I'll buy the parts, and they may charge a little extra time to make up for their lost profit on the parts. In the end, I think I'll come out about 40% cheaper than the quote from the first shop. Based on the lower cost, and the fact that all the information the second shop gave me fit exactly with what I've read here, I will have the second shop do the work. Maybe not right away, as they told me with some care it could last up to another 6-12 months. They also said there was no problem with an auto-x or two as long as I was careful. Bottom line, with some good advice from you guys and a little research I'll save enough money to add some new springs or a short shifter or some other toy/gadget........ Thanks, Kevin

kbrandsma, thanks for the info on the flywheel. I take it from your reply that the clutch does not have to be "matched" to the flywheel - you can replace one or the other at any time? Kevin

blundgren, thanks for the reply. The shop does have a good reputation and I believe these guys know what they are doing in general, but I was a bit surprised by this diagnosis. I think I will get a second opinion - this is too much money not to. Thanks for your comments. Kevin

I have an '03 Boxster S purchased used in April 2006 with 9600 miles. It had two previous owners. I had it checked by a reputable Porsche dealer and they replaced the RMS, under warranty, prior to the sale. Other than that it got a clean bill of health. I've driven it as a daily driver 6 months out of the year, 3 DEs, about 4 auto-x per summer, and it now has 22,200 miles on it. I recently bled the brakes and was going to do the clutch line, but had trouble locating it. I also don't have a very safe way to lift the car, so I elected to take it to the local independent shop for the clutch line bleed and tranny oil replacement. I have taken my car there before, and they have a great reputation. The mechanic called me and asked if there was a specific reason for bleeding the clutch line, and I told him just regular maintenance. He said my clutch was very heavy, and likely had a broken release spring (not sure if that's the exact part, but something like that), and I should replace the entire clutch and flywheel. He said it was a $3 part, but it was likely the clutch was worn also and I should replace everything while they were in there. The cost I was quoted was $1,000 parts, $1,000 labor (eight hours of work). That's Canadian dollars, so translates to about $1,800 US at todays exchange rate. I have never noticed the clutch slipping. The tranny shifts like a hot knife through butter. I didn't notice the clutch being heavy either, but if it happened gradually I suppose I wouldn't. I have never in my life worn out a clutch, and I've driven plenty of manuals. I don't rest my foot on the clutch. So.....I'm looking for some comments from you clutch experts out there. Does this seem reasonable? What would you do? If I elect to replace the clutch, should I replace the flywheel also? Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin

Yes, they should sell you just the plastic part. About $40 MSRP as I recall. Make sure you get the right one for your car because they are different. Hey Loren - I cleaned up the brake fluid really good, and let the car sit Sunday and Monday. No leaks. I took it out for a drive (carefully) and did some hard braking. The brakes work great. And no leaks or drips, or even a hint of fluid leaking. The only thing I can think of is this: When the reservoir was pressured up by the power bleeder, I hit or twisted the reservoir, hard enough for some fluid to squirt out by the gaskets for a moment. Is this possible? Does the reservoir just sit in the gaskets, it's not bolted or screwed on? Thanks, Kevin

Thanks Loren. I bet I cracked the reservoir when I was connecting/disconnecting the bleeder. It's not mounted in a very sturdy fashion, and I probably tried a little to hard to prevent air leaks by torquing the cap to much. Guess that's a lesson for the future: be sure I support the reservoir with one hand while removing the cap with the other. I didn't realize it was that delicate. Hope they will sell me the reservoir without buying the entire master cylinder. Kevin

It just sits in two rubber(like) gaskets. Yes....I see those and that appears to be where the leak is. After several hours of sitting, it does not appear to leak. But if I take it out for a drive, there are a few drops of fluid underneath the reservoir. Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin

I'm bleeding my brakes on my 2003 Boxster S for the first time. Using the Motive power bleeder and bottles, everything in general is going well except......I noticed the brake fluid reservoir is now slowly leaking fluid from the bottom. I did not exceed 20 psi using the power bleeder. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tighten it? I hope I don't have to flush all my new fluid out, as I usesd Motul 600, and it ain't cheap.