binger

BBA Reman is one of the worlds leading automotive remanufacturers. I dont work for them however I use there service. Check out the link below. http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/DetailedProduct.aspx?DetailedProduct=1398

Sorry to hear your still having this issue. It defiantly sounds like it could be a large vacuum leak. I cant wait to hear what solved it. Please keep us posted.

If your going to go OEM call Andraya Hayward Sunset Porsche Parts Toll Free: 800.346.0182 Direct: 503.726.2244 andraya.hayward@sunsetimports.com

HI Brian, I only use OEM parts on driveability related issues! I dont know how many miles you have on your Cayenne I would always replace pumps in pairs. If one pump is bad the second is not far behind. Its your call if you want to do the research and cross reference that part and then roll the dice. HTH

I would not stand for any conditions like that. I would run away as fast as you can.

Before you start throwing parts at your issue you need to prove the fuel pump is bad. Do you have access to a scanner? preferably a duramtrec to see what codes you may have. You will also need a fuel pressure gauge to see if your up to spec. You need to prove if its fuel or ignition system/electrical related issue before you just throw a $450.00 fuel pump at it.

If you want a bolt on solution look at Automotion. Its a little pricy but its a true weekend project.

The tool you are looking for is Torx Bit Socket. https://www.google.com/search?q=torx+socket+set&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=torx+socket+set&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=shop

Here is a good source for your issue. BBA Reman http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Porsche_Cayenne_Turbo_Instrument_Cluster

Like I said this is one of the most difficult systems to diagnose without the proper skills and tools. Frist they did not give you a proper diagnoses. Second you paid for a leak detection pump that did not need to be replaced. I would hammer them to give you some money back. I would not let them work on your vehicle at all. I dont know if you have bureau of auto repair in Texas. If you do I would report them if they do not play nice.

Loren is correct the only way to turn off the light use a resister and jump the pins or put the seat back in. you will also need Durametric, a Porsche PST2 or Porsche PIWIS to clear the airbag code. We use a 2.5 ohm resister as a simulator to test SRS systems all the time. You can find tool companys that sell SRS simulators with the yellow plug but youre going to pay $75.00 to $100.00 for it. If you get a resister just shape it like the picture and jump the pins.

Try LA Dismantler http://www.ladismantler.com/

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The part runs about $240 on the hight side. If they have not smoked the whole system to prove all is well you might spend more $$$ in the end. I will remind you this is one of the most difficult systems to diagnose with out the proper tools.

I would start by asking if you have installed any new aftermarket toys? IE: radio, nav system, alarm? If so I would start with that fuse group. Hope this helps.

If you don’t understand how the evap system works from A to Z the car should be looked at by a professional. To properly diagnose you will need a smoke machine and a DVOM or better yet OEM scanner. This is a complex system that is daunting to even the best Techs out there. Save yourself the time and money in the long run.

Porsche Cayennes use the CAN bus for diagnostics. The CAN bus will go into sleep mode after only a few minutes if the car's engine is not running. To prevent this, you can either start the car's engine (when it's safe to do so) or turn on the hazard lights (emergency flashers) just after turning on the car's ignition. For 2003 - 2004 models, press the brake pedal to wake up the CAN bus. Also If the instrument cluster does not reset automatically when resetting the service reminder, remove the instrument cluster fuse for ten seconds with the key out before replacing the fuse. If the car has a fault in one of the non-critical systems it can trigger a service now indicator. Check each system for faults. Then try again.

Hi Loren, with all the cars on the blog I forgot it was a 99. :D

What model and year car?

It communicates though the 16 pin DLC. It sounds like you have a CAN issue IE: a loss of communicates on the network. If this is the case you will need professional help as its not something simple for the DIYer to trace because you will need a lab scope and a breakout box.

Launch X431 GDS would not be my first choice of tool to use on your car. However if it has the euro package it will definitely read the ABS module codes.

Before you spend a lot of $$$ I would prove that you have a head gasket issue. There are several methods see videos below. For the DIYer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQwvdzRGKkI For the Professional with a gas analyzer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDd0B7dSsTk As for your ABS issue I think you might have a problem with (CAN) controller area network not communicating with that system. I would take your car to a diagnostic professional to solve these issues because of the complex nature and lack of proper scan tools. For further explanation check out the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8HTVlEC7Lg

From what you describe and the codes P0301, P0420 your new mechanic has put up a red flag in my book. Just because you have these codes does not mean you throw parts at them. I would first have to prove to myself that all of your coils were bad before I could recommend replacing any of them. And I can see your being setup next for a CAT with a P0420. If I were you I would run far and fast from your new mechanic! I dont know the laws in NY but in California if you start recommending this kind of work you better be right. The CA Bureau of Automotive Repair comes down big time on guys like this with a big fine and then pulling your license.

I would hammer the dealer ASAP! The car was in perfect condition when you handed over to them except for the 6k service. Also check under the driver seat for water this is where your DME unit lives and water can kill it in a flash!

People do not realize how a tire can affect your cars performance and input sensors. I was called to a shop to diagnose an intermitted ABS issue. The tech at the indie was going crazy with a right wheel sensor code. He changed the wheel sensor that threw the code no change. He then changed the other three wheel sensors no change. He decided to change the yaw sensor no change same issue. Now the shop had several thousand dollars in time and parts invested without any answers. Thats when I was called in to see what I could find out what was going on with this problem car. I first scanned the car with a factory tool to be sure shops generic scanner was not sending them down the wrong path. I then checked all the wheel sensors with a lab scope to prove they were all working properly. All passed with flying colors so did the yaw sensor. I looked at the tires they look almost new low mileage maybe 10 to 12 thousand on them. Now what, this was a real mind twister. I remembered a friend of mine that use to be in the tire biz as a factory rep for several big name companys. He told me stories that the engineers were always playing with exotic belts and compounds and they would have weird issues all the time. Then the MFG would change whatever to make a quick fix until there next problem. Now back to the issue at hand. I had the shop swap the rear tires with the front. I know there larger than the fronts but there was enough clearance they did not hit the fenders. The owner of the shop thought I was crazy. Now for the test drive on the same route without any issues. After the test drive my diagnoses was new tires all around the tires on this car where shot! The belts where moving in a way that the wheel sensor was thinking the wheel was slipping/skidding? The ABS module started pulsing the right wheel doing what it was designed to do. So the moral of the story is just because the tires are low mileage and look ok they might be the culprit.