cosorio

Hi all. Im working on a 2000 996 that is overheating because of no coolant circulation. The left and right hoses coming from the engine gets really hot so I know the thermostat is opening but when I went under the car and touched the large hoses underneath that delivers the coolant to the radiators, these hoses and pipes are really cold. So I thought the water pump is defective (although not leaking) and maybe the plastic impellers are broken. I took the pump off and after inspection, it seems the pump is in good working order. No broken fins, bearing is tight and doesn't wobble. Is it possible the pump is defective even though it looks like in perfect working order upon inspection? Basically, the water is not being circulated and not reaching the radiators. Any suggestions? Thanks. ***EDIT: Nevermind, waterpump is good, just had to give the engine a few hard revs to get the coolant circulating.

Hi Loren, I'd like to request a radio code: CDR-220 Type 4362 Serial X5018260 Thanks.

Bump, still waiting for an update.

I spoke to a tech and advised me that whatever is causing the car to shutoff after warm up is not related to emission components such as the charcoal canister. He mentioned that it is definitely heat related and that the car is not able to restart until the components affected completely cools down. Anyone?

Thank you. :)

Hi all. Could someone with a 2000-up 996 with E-Gas post a picture of their engine? I need a shot specifically on the throttle body. Thanks.

99% and you should hope that it is an RMS leak because another possibility is a case leak which is infinitely worse as you would have to split the case just to reseal. An RMS isn't too bad of a job: drop the tranny, remove the clutch and flywheel and you're right there.

I am leaning towards concluding that code 0446 is not the cause of the engine shutting down after it has warmed up. I just replaced the carbon canister and used a friend's shutoff valve and purge valve and the car still shuts down each and every time it has warmed up. Again, the parameters are: engine shuts down after warm up, usually a few minutes after startup, and will not start again until after several hours have passed. This is usually overnight. There are no other codes present. Now Im thinking either fuel pump or relay. Is the ECU the unit that shuts off the engine and prevents it from restarting until after a number of hours? The car is a 2000 996 manual with e-gas. Thanks.

Have you resolved the problem? Please post how you fixed it as I am having the same exact issue. Thanks.

Time for an update. I replaced the carbon canister with a new one and the car still shuts off so we can eliminate that as the problem. Next thing is the shutoff valve. I located the carbon canister vent valve housing which houses the both the carbon control valve and the shutoff valve. If the shutoff valve is at fault, would I be able to test it by simply disconnecting the shutoff valve and the car will start again? When the car shuts off, I no longer get the fault code with Durametric.

I think one of the actual values in durametic is a reading about how saturated the charcola filter is - you might want to take a look at that value. I think I know which one you are referring to, and the reading is -6.

Well i checked the 2 lines in the engine bay and neither seems blocked. I started the engine again and ran the durametric and no codes showed, but the car still shutoff as usual. I guess I'll have to locate the charcoal canister. Im assuming the canister and shutoff valve are located under the car next to the tank?

Thanks Loren. I will post my findings when I diagnose the problem.

Thanks Loren. Which is the purge air line that I need to check for blockage? Is it the top port of the canister? Would you have a link to a diagram? Would this actually cause the engine to shutoff? Thanks.

Hi everyone. I need help in figuring out the cause of the car shutting down after reaching normal operating temp. The car is a 2000 996 with E-Gas and it is coming up with codes P0446 - Shutoff valve activated-charcoal filter (function) and P1674 - Final stage engine compartment purge fan. I have read a lot on past posts regarding P0446 and the charcoal canister but I do not believe I have read an occation when the engine actually cuts out. After shutting down, the car would not start again until the following day, or after numerous hours have passed. Does anyone know if the charcoal canister just need to be replaced or is something else involved for the car to shut down. Also, where is the shutoff valve located? Thanks.

19x10 offset 36 I believe your offset is wrong. For the rears, I think the correct offset is 65.

What type of info are you looking for? You mentioned that you're 60 days past your registration, but if you paid it you shouldn't incur any late fees. Did you test your car and failed? If so, and if you're a AAA member, just go in and ask for a temp permit. If you haven't tested it yet then they will only give you a 1 day operating permit.

I had a lemon law issue here in California with my MB ML320. This one is a little different as it dealt with suspension geometry rather than drivetrain. To make a long story short, the problem was fixed after 4 attempts. In California, the dealer has 4 attempts at the recurring problem. After the 4th attempt and the problem still persists, you get a replacement car. MB made sure that it was fixed the 4th time that they flew 2 engineers from Germany to diagnose the car. At the end of the ordeal, it turned out to be an out of spec A-arm. In your particular case, if you have a porous block and the dealer is going to replace it, why not just do it and solve the problem? IMHO, there is absolutely no way that Porsche will replace your car because it sets a precedence for future cases. But hey, it's probably worth a shot since your car is so new and it only has 180 miles.

*Update* The engine miss turned out to be a bad injector so the car is running fine now except for a slight trace of smoke, possibly running rich. The CEL is now gone and hasnt reappeared, but without any error codes I can't determine the cause of the smoke. I might add that there is no smoke at start up and no smoke at idle. Could this be just the engine clearing itself out after years of storage? I did notice that the amount of smoke has diminished over time and is now a faint trace and hardly detectable. My only concern is passing smog with an engine running too rich.

A little background on my project: The engine went out on my '99 996 so I started looking around for a replacement engine. I found an engine from a local Porsche shop in NY that only has 8500 miles and has been stored for several years. The price was right so I bought it and had it shipped to California. Fast forward to the problems > Installed the engine and started it. Had some smoke initially but eventually cleared up. The first thing I noticed was that there is a definite miss while idling. I placed my hand over the exhast tips and I can feel a pulsation on the left side. There is also a lot of smoke that comes out when I start revving the engine at higher rpms. The smoke disappears when idling. At this point I'm already worried about the overall health of this low mileage engine. I then performed a compression test on all cylinders and all cylinders had about 125-130 psi except of #2 which only had about 100 psi. All plugs have nice burns on them and absolutely no oil present on the spark plugs. This is why it perplexes me because if the engine is burning oil at higher rpms, then the plugs should be fouled, or at least be very dark. Likewise, if the engine has a low compression cylinder, isnt it also true that the plugs will be fouled and have oil residue on them? With all this happening, the check engine light came on and it's been flashing ever since. Of course, I dont have a reader so I have no idea what the error codes are. Do any of you guys think I might be missing something or is this pretty much an indication of a bad engine? I would like to exhaust all avenues before I call the shop that sold me the engine and tell them the situation. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Loren.

Hi all. Any one know the correct torque specs for the flywheel bolts? Also need the torque for the clutch bolts. I'm changing the clutch and Im not sure if the torque is the same as the old 911s. Thanks.

Hi everybody. I'm replacing my 3.4 engine and have taken out all of the stuff underneath the engine. Seems a lot of room to be able to drop without the trans. Any of you guys dropped this engine only without the tranny? I know the conventional way is to remove with the trans, but would save a lot of time if the motor can be dropped by itself. Thanks.

Well, I've had mixed responses when I asked that same question. On another board, members have said that rebuilding will be cost prohibitive as special tools are required which will total about $1,000 in addition to parts and machine work. However, there's a member here that said rebuilding these engines isn't that much different than any other engine. I'll just get another engine just to get back on the road and then take my time in rebuilding my core. I would still like to know which dealer Mother called that quoted $6,500.

Let's bring this back to the top since I'm looking for an engine as well. Los Angeles Porsche Dismantlers is selling 996 engines for $6500 used. I'll definitely pass on that. Mother - which dealer did you call and got the $6,500 quote for an engine? Lowest I've seen is Sunset at $8,400 plus shipping.