Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

judgejon

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    811
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by judgejon

  1. wish I could help with this, but I am stumped. how about checking for an in-line fuse on motor connection or anything else loose under the seat? good luck with this. I'd be interested in the solution. If it is a seat motor issue, I'd bet the passenger seat motors are interchangeable.
  2. Wyovino is right I believe. This would keep some tension on the slider piece. But, still could be drag-chute release.
  3. My best guess is that it serves as sort of a dustcover to prevent stuff falling into the shift track. slides back and forth with gearshift I'd bet. Could also be a sort of lock-out or pressured spring to prevent you from accidentally going into reverse. There was something like that on my 1968 Camaro. Alternatively, it could be the safety lock-out for the ejection-seat mechanism. Alternatively, it could be the parachute release lock-out for quick stopping assist when hard-breaking occurs over 145 mph. I think this was another of 573 options available on the car. Good luc
  4. another thought... I had to have window regulator replaced in drivers door as window was not lowering when door opened and was hitting the molding when closing. A bit of a pain.. Regulator assembly replaced and now window drops a little bit as it should, but makes kind of a thud sound when going up as door is closed. Might need an adjustment, but I'm for sure not taking door apart to do that. Maybe your sound is something like that? Kind of a thud from top of window area when door is closed and window goes back into fully closed position? Hope you figure it out. This ki
  5. replace MAF, don't bother to attempt to clean. Just a thought....
  6. my key only unlocks doors. there is a separate button for front compartment. 2003 C4$ are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism? It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped. This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed. I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet. Possible. Good luck.
  7. throttle body, butterfly, but mostly MAF are what this seems like to me. See Lorens post above on this thread. Good luck.
  8. could these be part of the optional mechanism for release of the speed-brake parachute in hard braking from over 125mph?
  9. Principle 1: Understand the question before looking for the answer. Principle 2: Start at the top and work down. Were these valves/switchs already replaced earlier in the process? If not, ...
  10. what was the cause of the metal particles found in the oil? Cheers,
  11. Hi, Leo. Welcome to the forum. I was in San Diego in late 60's and early 70's. I remember it all too well. So, your question is really a classic "no brainer." Jeff is absolutely right. Please do not reuse your old bearing. Mine is actually sitting proudly on a bench out in the garage, along with an internal oil pump, and 2 timing chain tensioners from my 911sc. These are all very pretty and interesting to look at. Seriously, strongly consider going with an LNE retrofit bearing or putting in the LNE Solution. I will be facing this question in about 10k miles. Not to repla
  12. wir brauchen ein video deiner abenteuer. und von deiner freundin auch. the switch is in the fuse panel, and comes through the fuse panel cover. I'll try to attach a photo of cover and fuse panel.
  13. welcome to the forum. glad this was an easy fix for you. sometimes....well, sometimes for somethings there is an easy answer. Cheers, ps: the switch actually comes through the fuse box cover, unless it was optioned to one of the blanks up on the horseshoe around the radio/ac.
  14. I bet your right about the sensor being on top of the gas tank. Good luck with all this. With the racing fuel cap and a big tank you will soon be running full out at Thunderhill.
  15. Thanks. I will be taking your good advice. I'm aware of the 6/75k thoughts on the retrofit bearing. I drive a 2003 C4$. I had the retrofit installed in 2011 at about 40k miles on the car. Mileage now about 60k. My plan is to change to the Solution at around 70k miles. Does this fit with the various situations you've seen in the shop? Cheers, jl
  16. Or, if you do as provenance, keep your repair record from the shop that did the work. This is probably ok if the shop is licensed by your state, like CA through the BAR. And as a related digression, Jeff, I have about 25k the retrofit on my 2003 C4$. I'll be getting another put in after about 10k+ miles. Is it still your thought to go with the solution instead of another retro? I've thought otherwise, but am coming around to the solution as, well, ..the solution. I did the carerra tensioner hydrologic update on my 911sc, and then never thought about tensioners again. Same with the s
  17. I recall that you take out the battery and remove the battery tray, and that the valve is right on top of the fuel tank. I had to do this due to a mouse nest and nibbled wire in this exact location. Great inde shop started top down when I was having your gas issue. There's a thread on the forum about this. He had to reconnect a chewed through wire and voila problem solved. Must tell you the wire was cheap, but the time spent on the actually job did not come cheap. Good luck...
  18. Makes sense. Glad you found it, and hopefully not too pricey a fix. Cheers.
  19. were the tires broken in properly? how many miles on the car? how long have you had it? history of front end issues? could be a defective tire, or front end suspension issues. control arms? has the car been tracked? does the issue occur on a good straight paved road? are tires properly balanced? check tire play on a long straight good smooth roadway. sometimes a bouncing effect can happen if the tires are not properly balanced, and this might not be apparent at 50mph but would be noticeable at 65. good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.