Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Highlander

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    314

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Highlander

  1. Highlander
    What is the offset on the rear wheels?
  2. Highlander
    Yup, that's the right one. I just had to use one of those yesterday. It does work, but it is more difficult to seat on the balljoint. Also, you have to be sure to leave the nut screwed on the balljoint so the top of the threaded shaft is level with the top of the nut. Good Luck
  3. Highlander
    Part #'s for US/Canada suspension parts are the same, so there will be no difference in ride height.
  4. Highlander
    It's more likely a small rock got caught up in the dust shield. It's not an infrequent occurence, but it is kinda worrysome when it happens. Glad you got it all fixed.
  5. Highlander
    I drove to the event on RE050's ;) Hoosier A6's for competition runs though. I actually had TTD for about a minute... until a GT2 in the Modified class stole my thunder. Then when the Improved cars came out, I dropped down a few more spots.
  6. Highlander
    Give board sponsor Sunset Imports a call before you go aftermarket. You might be pleasantly surprised. http://www.sunsetimports.com/porscheatcost.php
  7. Highlander
    That is the exact tire I'm running on my '01 S in 225/40-17 and 255/40-17 sizes. I really like them. I have even run them on the track a couple of times and while they are obviously a street tire, they performed remarkably well. Go for it. Oops, typo! :eek: Fronts are 225/45-17.
  8. Highlander
    That is the exact tire I'm running on my '01 S in 225/40-17 and 255/40-17 sizes. I really like them. I have even run them on the track a couple of times and while they are obviously a street tire, they performed remarkably well. Go for it.
  9. Highlander
    Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please Here's a pic from my suspension R&R (http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension):
  10. Highlander
    Is your current alignment off? You do not need an alignment if all you did is change wheel/tire sizes. If you do need an alignment, your answers to the following questions will help determine what you should ask for. 1. What is your primary use of the car? Commuting? "Spirited" canyon driving? Autocross? Track? 2. What is your tolerance to uneven/high tire wear? 3. Will you trade tire wear for better handling?
  11. Highlander
    19" wheels are an aesthetic modification. If you like the look of your car with 19's, I say "go for it". I would suspect however that ride quality will suffer because of the ultra low sidewall height. Porsche increased the rolling circumference of the 987/997 models to allow 19" wheels with reasonable sidewall height. I'd guess the reason for the suspension "strengthening" is a combination of a heavier wheel, higher rotational inertia and increased impact loads due to the shorter/stiffer sidewall. Good luck
  12. Highlander
    Humming noise... rattling... My bet is a bad bearing. Pretty easy to diagnose. Lift the right side of the car and spin the wheel. It shoud be smooth and quiet. If you can feel roughness, definitely bearing. The old fashioned "wiggle the tire" may not show anything. Good Luck
  13. Highlander
    Yup, that's exactly what it's for.
  14. Highlander
    Good advice from Mike about getting used 16" take-offs. For tires, I have had great success with Nokian WR's and Gislaved Nord Frost 5's on my BMW's - my Boxster gets racing slicks, not snow tires :D http://tinyurl.com/299vp2 http://tinyurl.com/bhwj7 Both of these tires give decent dry and wet weather performance - for a snow tire - as well as exceptional snow performance. I have also tried Michelin Pilot Alpins and was very disappointed in them. Felt like I was driving on marshmallows in the dry and their snow performance was only mediocre. The Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60 is another exceptional snow tire, but has only mediocre dry performance and does not wear well if driven predominantly on dry roads. Good Luck
  15. Highlander
    Yup, you need more camber. The "factory alignment" on my car straight off the boat had POSITIVE camber on the right, 0 camber on the left and a whole bunch of toe-out. Porsche must have thought I wanted to go circle track racing... Either the ROW or PSS9's will help your camber problem at the track without compromising your street wear too much. Do not use camber plates on an otherwise stock suspension. It kills the handling of the car. Ask me how I know!!! <_< GT3 control are work but as you said, they are expensive. Dremelling out the upper mounts? That's a complete hack. Can't recommend it. What I would recommend are the PSS9's as they give you the ability to corner balance your car and you can stiffen them up for the track and then back them off so you don't lose fillings on the street. Good Luck
  16. Highlander
    Pics?
  17. Highlander
    Those settings are fine. A nice benign street alignment that will allow you to get the best mileage out of your tires, no problem.
  18. Highlander
    Post the actual values on the alignment sheet and I can tell you if it is worth taking your car back. If you can scan the sheet and post that here it would be even better.
  19. Highlander
    This page explains how to get the mirror out of the enclosure. Hopefully then you'll be able to see how the mechanism is mounted. http://www.toolworks.com/bilofsky/boxster/mirrors.html Good Luck
  20. Highlander
    The best tire I have found that meets the "grip like glue in wet and dry conditions" is the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. Very expensive and they don't last long, but boy do they work well! http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...Pilot+Sport+PS2 I had a set on my M3 at the track in these conditions and everyone who got in the car was shocked at how much grip I had in my totally stock car. Just don't try driving on actual snow pack. Then they act like normal summer tires. ie, absolutely no grip!!!
  21. Highlander
    If you can get the old sensors out in one piece, you can reuse them. The only caution I have for you is that the plastic material they are made of can get very brittle with the heat they have to endure and they may fall apart as you pry them out of the old pad. IF they do fall apart, don't fret. Just tie-wrap them up out of the way on the strut somewhere (that way the brake warning light on the dash will stay off), finish our brake job and replace them at a later date at your convenience. Check out Trygve Isaacson's excellent Boxster brake pages: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/intro/ If you want to skip the initial brake tutorial and go straight to the meat of changing them, click here: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/proje.../change_rotors/ This is a great writeup that will give you all the info you need to confidently tackle this job by yourself. Once you have finished, you'll wonder why you ever paid someone to do it for you.
  22. Highlander
    I'll ask my wife, hehehe. Or maybe it's THE magnet??? :lol: DO NOT REMOVE THAT MODULE... The black helicopters will show up seconds after you do! :P
  23. Highlander
    I'd suggest sticking with OE parts. You know they work.
  24. Highlander
    Could simply be a slightly loose swaybar droplink mount. Check that the droplink is torqued correctly on the swaybar. You can find how to do that here: http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension/index.html To answer your original question, yes you can simply swap struts left to right, they are identical. Good Luck, Graeme
  25. Highlander
    The general consensus is to use a cocktail of 2 Redline fluids: 2 parts 75W/90 NS 1 part Lightweight Gear Oil I use this in my B&M short shifter equipped "S" and it improved the shift quality considerably. It's still a little notchy when it's cold, but way better than with the stock Porsche fluid. Good Luck, Graeme
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.