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Everything posted by timbo

  1. thanks for the replies. new MAF fitted about 4k ago, a bad back means I can't get stuck into the throttle body for a while.
  2. before I start ripping things apart I would be interested in peoples thoughts as to why this problem is intermittent, and with no CEL, thanks.
  3. A while back i posted about a rough idle on a 2000 2.7 with 95k. always fine on cold start up, sometimes when warm idle would be rough and other times absolutely fine. Car drives without issues and no CEL, no noises. Just got round to getting codes read at my local garage while getting an MOT (which it went through with no advisories, not bad for a 16 year old car!). P1341 was the only code stored, From what I've read this relates to camshaft actuators, however, there always seems to be a related CEL, with a persistent problem often related to RPMs, I don't have any of these issues. The idle, when rough, cycles up and down, sometimes worse than others, I havnt cleaned the throttle body yet, and Im now wondering if it can be related to this as I have the code and the fault is intermittent, Would be grateful if anyone can shed any light on this.
  4. I would expect that there is an isolater switch somewhere, could be that this is faulty. what happens if you move the stick about, when it does work does the drive seem normal.
  5. Whatever they should be I would always prefer flat ones, the convex mirrors give the appearance of objects being further away than they actually are which is dangerous in my opinion.
  6. Well if it helps I have 2000 2.7 which I have had for 7 years and 60k miles, it doesn't have shims and the brakes have never squealed, From what I can recall I dont think they are glued to the pads. .
  7. Update, so after a number of longish runs it seems to have settled down now. My theory is that Ive been doing a lot of short runs, the butterfly valve wont have completely closed each time allowing some crud to build up, so when completely warmed up the crud got in the way, the long runs may have cleared it away. coupled with a possible oil overfill. Dip stick says full Dash stick says half full, I think I made the mistake of going by the dash stick. Changed the oil and filter and went by the Dip stick. Does my theory seem plausible?
  8. Hi thanks for the input. Strangely today the idle was a little smoother although not perfect, so Im going to give the throttle body a clean when the weather over gets a little better.
  9. Thanks, its a bit of a trek for me to get the codes read but if that's what I have to do so be it. Was just hoping someone had come across this temp related issue before. Just got back from a 100 mile trip car is fine until fully warmed up then idle stumbles and is slow. Being an E gas car am I correct in thinking it doesn't have an Idle Control Valve.
  10. Hi Lauren, I dont have a code reader but I can get them read. Would there be any as no CEL?
  11. Hi everyone, I have done some research around this topic but cant seem to find the same symptoms as I currently have. So I have a 2000 2.7 tip with 95k miles, it had a new AOS about 2 years ago and a new MAF 1500 miles ago. Car runs fine apart from a rough idle but only when its fully warmed up. If I drive 20 miles and leave it for a hour, when I start it up again idle is fine until it gets fully up to temp. Any start from cold and its fine initially. About a year ago after a service the mechanic started it up and it did the same thing but cold, hasnt done anything like this until the last couple of weeks. Oil filler cap comes off easily. Had the inspection cover off and cant hear any vacuum leaks. Cleaned the throttle body about 2 years ago when the AOS went bad, but to be honest it wasnt very dirty. I had it running with the cover off got it up to about 80c close to running temp and it seemed fine, took it for a spin and the fault returned. It does not stall. so any ideas would be appreciated.
  12. When you turn on the ignition do you hear the initial buzz of the fuel pump to pressure up, would have thought it should hold its pressure anyway though, once cranking I think the pump should be on. if not it could be a relay problem. However, Im not sufficiently up to speed with the details of this system to understand why it should start cold if this was the problem unless it was temperature related. I'm sure someone will be along who knows the answer.
  13. Ok, see what you mean, yeh upper half rubbed on the body, will check lower half when next in there, dare I say running great at the moment with 90k miles.
  14. Hi newart1, luckily I spotted it while the coolant tank was out, no bolts on mine just two spring clamps.
  15. Just out of interest, I just visited my local indi and they had a Boxster with a failed LN bearing, they also said that they simply remove the grease seal and let engine oil lube it and have had no issues with this.
  16. Just replaced the coolant tank on my 2000 Boxster, found one tip to pass on, I found that by removeing the two pins securing the clamm shell and swinging out of the way I could get much better access and you dont get the greasy mark on your left shoulder from the locating pin. I also found that Mole Grips worked well on the clamps and that its best to leave the pipes on at the tank and remove them from inside the engine compartment. While doing this I discovered that the oil filler tube had worn right through in several places, would this have any effect on the running of the engine as this would mean there could be no vacuum?
  17. I understand the reasons for the vacuum and the low tension rings, the question is how much if any damage would occur with a small amount of usage while vacuum disconnected, I'm not talking long term use. While it is obviously better to avoid driving if you can it is certainly worse driving with it connected. So neither probably advisable, but disconnected better of the two if you have to drive. Anyway my 2000 80k Boxster suffered no permanent damage, drove it for about a week, drove the 30 miles to the opc to have the aos replaced, no issues since.
  18. Dont follow that idea, mine did neither. i see there is another topic on here where the same was done, provided it can breathe I dont think there is a problem. The AOS is more an emissions device. But hey, go with what you feel is right.
  19. Got mine from Porsche Bournemouth for £68 last year, £99 to fit it.
  20. When mine went I disconnected the tube from the manifold and plugged the manifold end, that way it cant generate vacuum, wasn't great but it ran well enough to get me about before I got it fixed.
  21. Wow, 264 k miles, thats amazing, original block etc?
  22. I dont have any experience of fitting Boxster transmissions, but on a conventional set up I always found it useful to put the transmission into gear so that the main shaft could be rotated by turning the driveshafts. You might need to hold one side while you rotate the other.
  23. Problem is the more you run it, if it is the IMS, the more chance it could fail completely totalling the engine, so what ever you do, do in short bursts and keep the engine revs low.
  24. Sorry to hear this, it doesnt sound good and I wouldnt run any more just in case its something like an intermediate shaft bearing. i presume there are no water leaks. If it is the bearing and it hasnt completely collapsed you might be lucky, in a manner of speaking, in that it could be replaced rather more cheaply than if it fails completely . Good luck, hope it doesnt turn out to be too costly.
  25. Thats a very good point I had a loose spark plug which gave a sqeek, albeit only when you blipped the throttle, why not take the engine cover off and go for a drive.
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