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Everything posted by bhussung

  1. Loren, I can't seem to find that through the search functions, can you post a link to that thread? Thanks
  2. I'm not sure about compensation, but I use tire rack all the time. The preferred installer in my area doesn't carry the tires that I put on my p car. The $10-$20 per wheel they get to mount them is still money they wouldn't have had otherwise. They have corporate insurance to cover any damages that may occur. I'm sure that isn't much of a worry for them. They are just glad to get another customer out of the deal, and some free (or cheap) advertising on tire rack. If your feeling guilty, I'm sure the installer would love for you to come back any buy some tires for the wife's car...
  3. The dealer that imported the car is most likely to work with you. I was the second owner of my 2000 C2 Cab. I didn't buy it from a dealer, but I always had it serviced there. When I had the intermix problem, they looked it up, and found out that they had imported the car originally. They worked with porsche and decided to cover the re-man engine. I paid only $2k for some of the labor. Good luck! Goodwill is out there... Don't give up without a fight!
  4. The "recent and sudden" cause that BruceP was referring to is a possible inter-mix issue with your oil. I would check that to make sure there are no signs of coolant in the oil.
  5. There are other drains in the back on a Cab. Take a look at this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7791
  6. The wear of your back tires is typical of the 996. This is due to the toe-in and camber of the wheels. Depending on the type/brand of tires, you should expect 8-12k miles per set of street rears. You still can't go wrong with an allignment.
  7. Check the factory label under the hood. A lot of times the dealer will write the key number on the label. If so, take that info to your local dealer, and they will gladly sell you a new key that will work :)
  8. I place a piece of cloth tape on the back of each one of the covers. It did the trick for me.
  9. I wouldn't call it a great solution, but I used industrial double sided tape. It was a few years ago, and I needed a quick fix for a drive event. It ended up lasting about a week, and then took me about an hour to remove it after I got home. Make sure you take the pressure off of the window before you attemp to bond it. Best of luck......
  10. Looks to be a common problem. This may help: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13025
  11. I assumed this was a gas cap holder. It fits perfectly turned upside down. I can't see any other purpose for carving out a piece of plastic in this exact spot.
  12. You have a great looking product. How many have you installed/sold so far? I too am looking for a replacement option for the wonderful plastic window.
  13. Make sure the plastic cover that surrounds the metal hook on the closing mechanism is still glued to the hook. If the top over stresses, the plastic cover is designed to detach, and it won't activate the micro-switch. That would make the windows not function correctly, and the light would stay on. If that is the case, you should be able to push up on the plastic cover (after it has retracted... don't lose a finger) and activate the micro switch. That should allow the windows to activate. You will then need to get the top calibrated, and a new plastic cover for the hook. This problem is
  14. My engine never did smoke at all. I'm guessing from the blinking coolant light, that your coolant level was very low, due to consumption by the engine. I had that same issue, and required a replacement. Just like Lee above, I don't know exactly what was wrong due to the fact you can't open the engine without losing your core return. Good luck.
  15. I forsee a new engine in your near future. Could be a couple of things, such as the porous block problem, a slipped sleeve, or a bad oil cooler. I would have it towed to your nearest dealership. There are quite a few articles on the site about that problem. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15003
  16. I would get to a mechanic asap. Your coolant should not be oily. If you shine a flashlight into the open reservoir, do you see any particulate matter, or foamy residue? You may have a leaky oil cooler, or worse... brant
  17. I don't have any experience to lend on the PCM, but looking at the wiring schematic, it looks like the CD Player uses the Radio ground, which is ground point 4.(GP4) The Interior lights use GP3, and the luggage compartment light uses GP2. Hope that helps a little. PM me if you would like me to send you the diagram. brant
  18. I switched to the Kumho Ecsta's. I was running SO3's, but decided to look for a cheaper alternative after they were discontinued. I have no complaints after almost 22k miles and 2 DE's, rears will still last me through the fall and spring months. Great handling for road and track. They are somewhat more noisy, but at almost half the cost.... $109 and $207 for the fronts and rears (respectively) at tire rack.
  19. I am on my second set of Kumho SPTs. The price/performance is great. They are 1/3 the cost of the Bridgestone counterpart, and wear twice as well. I bought a new set of SO3s when I purchased the car, and the nylon was showing at 8k miles. My last set of Kumho SPTs lasted around 20k miles, and I have about 14k on this set, and they have about 8mm of tread left on the inside of the rears. My only complaint about the Kumho's is road noise. They are definitely louder than the Bridgestones, but not to the point of overbearing the exhaust ;)
  20. I don't have a lot of expertise to offer, I'll leave that to the veterans. #4 is a very simple and fairly cheap mod. Check this out: Smokers Delete I'm sure you can find information on the rest of your issues using the search feature.
  21. No matter what model year you purchase, an extended warranty is always a good idea. I have a 2000, and have been through the replacement. No fun there, but at least with the extended warranty, you can get back on the road again for less that the $10-$15k replacement cost. There are actually multiple issues that you may read about with the 3.4, from a slipped cylinder sleeve to a cracked head, or even a bearing failure. I believe each problem was fixed at a different time. I know on my rebuilt 3.4, the bearings have been beefed up to prevent that issue. Others may be able to comment on
  22. I now run "Kumho Ecsta SPT"s on my 2000 Cab. After I went through a set of SO3's in only 7,500mi, I decided to look for a less expensive tire. The road noise is a little louder than the SO3s, cornering and wet traction are about the same, but I get around 12,000mi(19,000km)/set and they only cost me about $550USD for all 4. I am now on my second set of Kumhos, and would recommend them to anyone, even thought they are not OEM for Porsche.
  23. Had the same thing happen to me.. Here are a couple of posts that may help you. The technical term for the issue is "Delamination" http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10533 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9371 There is also a TSB on this issue called "Convertible Rear Window Bonding Loose". I believe you have to be a contributing member to download the TSBs. Good luck
  24. The tire sizes you mentioned are the OE tire sizes for the 18" factory rims. Should work fine..
  25. Just got a letter today stating that my "Porsche automobile may benefit from a product improvement campaign". Too late to call them tonight, so I was wondering if anyone else has received a letter like this.. Is this Porsche's term for a recall notice? Thanks, Brant
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