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Everything posted by Ross1

  1. Do your windows not work at all, or do they just not automatically open and close? Two beeps when you try to lock the doors means that something is open. A typical item is the glove box in the center console.
  2. So my A/C fan is only working intermittently. I search the forums and noticed a correlation between the ignition switch and the A/C fan. Coincidentally, my fan started having this problem "after" I replaced a faulty ignition switch. The symptons are that when I start the car, the lights come on the A/C unit, but will fluctuate between dim and bright. Also, the little snowflake icon does not appear. After driving for a while, the snow flake will appear and the fan will start working. It will keep working until I stop the car. My durametric will throw the "31 Fresh air blower fault", but it doesn't seem like the actual fan is the problem. Has anybody had a similar problem? I would hate to replace the entire A/C unit, if that isn't the problem. Ross
  3. I’ve seen many topics about the Window Regulator for the 996/986. A lot of the topics deal with the window not lowering properly for the top, and also a grinding noise. The majority of the reasons for these symptoms are explained as a stretched/frayed cable. While this may be true in some cases, my window regulator exhibited these exact symptoms due to a broken plastic part. This seems to be a poor design decision to use this material. While for most people, I would recommend just replacing the regulator, it is possible to fix it. I thought that I would throw together this little explanation of what I did to repair my regulator. There are plenty of instructions out there on how to remove and replace the regulator from the door, so I will leave that up to you. The first thing you need to do is pull the cable off of one of the pulleys to get some slack. Next, you need to remove the metal plate from the main spool: If your regulator is broken like mine, then you will notice the blue plastic tube (yellow arrow) that is pushing against the spool. This is what makes the grinding noise and most likely is what will eventually fray the cable. This tube has broken off of the cable stay (red arrow). When the tube breaks loose, the cable sleeve slips through the stay and creates the slack that prevents the window from lowering properly. You will now need to slide the blue tube through the green bracket and the spring, so that it can mate back up with the blue cable stay. You now need to refasten the tube to the stay. I chose to use some spare plastic and a soldering iron. This worked very well, and I would say that it is now stronger than the original part. Your mileage may vary! You can now reassemble the regulator. Be careful to make sure that the cable inside the spool remains lined up in the proper groves. If they are misaligned, the cables will rub. I also wrapped a little electricians tape around the end of the cable sleeve, so it would fit snug in the stay. The original plastic wrap on the sleeve had been destroyed. The next step is the hardest of all. You need to replace the cable around the pulleys. This will require patience due to the fact that the cable is very tight and you need to compress the two springs on each side of the spool. I was able to do it with a couple screw drivers. Once the cable is in place, you should be able to freely slide the cable along the pulleys and the spool is noise free. You can now reinstall into the door. As I mentioned, this fix isn’t for everyone, but if you mess it up, you can always just buy a new one!!!
  4. Window Regulator Repair I’ve seen many topics about the Window Regulator for the 996/986. A lot of the topics deal with the window not lowering properly for the top, and also a grinding noise. The majority of the reasons for these symptoms are explained as a stretched/frayed cable. While this may be true in some cases, my window regulator exhibited these exact symptoms due to a broken plastic part. This seems to be a poor design decision to use this material. While for most people, I would recommend just replacing Author Ross1 Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/31/2011 06:05 AM Updated 10/31/2011 06:06 AM
  5. Try injecting a little gear lube into the rubber boot of the lower bearing. Use a large syringe. You can usually pick one up at your local large animal veterinary supply store.
  6. So you told the dealer that your steering wheel creaked and they worked on the front end. It sounds like something is getting lost in the translation from the service manager and the mechanic. I would either take it back and give them a thorough and specific explanation of the problem, or take it to a different dealer.
  7. So, for several years I have been dealing with shifting problems on my boxster. Hard shifting from first to second, especially when it's cold. Sometimes it would grind. Sometimes it would pop out of gear. I wrote this off to the transmission syncros going bad and figure I would just deal with it until it got so bad I needed to replace the tranny. A couple of weeks ago, my water pump failed. While I had the car up in the air and torn apart, I inspected the engine mount because I knew it was a problem area. I could see cracks in the rubber, so I decided to replace it. I am now estatically happy at the results. I can't believe the difference in the shifting. It is like the tranny is brand new again. Crisp, clean shifting. I just thought I would share this, in case someone else out there is having the same shifting problem. :renntech:
  8. No luck on finding the part in the thermostat. Does anybody have a diagram of the coolant system, so I can determine the next place to look? Thanks!
  9. So my car suddenly started overheating, to the point that the warning light started flashing and the temperature guage quickly ran up to 250. Knowing this is not good, I shut down the engine. After it cooled down, I opened the coolant cap. I heard a gurgling noise and looked under the car to see coolant flowing out from the middle. So off to work I went on tearing things apart to find the problem. I determined the fluid was coming from the water pump, so I removed it. My problem is that a piece of the impeller was broken off and obviously is inside the cooling system and possibly blocking a radiator. Does anybody know the best way to flush out the broken piece? Thanks, Ross
  10. My vote is the clockspring! You have to remove the steering wheel to get to it. It's the unit that transfers your electrical wiring to the wheel. It also helps with canceling your turn signals. It turns back and forth with your wheel and definitely can make that noise. It is not made to be opened for repair, so unless you can live with it, you will have to replace it. I think it's about $250.
  11. Do a search as this topic has been covered before. Most likely injecting some gear lube into the lower control arm ball joint rubber boot with a syringe will fix the problem.
  12. Wheel Bearing! It can still make that noise while driving even if it feels solid and doesn't make a noise when spinning it with your hand. Unless you have the tool to press out the bearing, you might as well take it to a Porsche mechanic and save the headache.
  13. By connecting the "speaker out" from your head unit to the amp, you have fed an amplified signal into an amplifier! This is what's causing your noise problem. You have answered your own question. The "rca outs" need to be fed to the amp and the rear speakers to the rear "speaker out" off the head unit. This will allow you to use the fade control for balance. This would mimic the configuration of the CDR-220.
  14. If it is in fact a wheel bearing, you probably won't ruin anything. But, just to be safe, take Maurice's suggestion and get a breaker bar. I would probably avoid using a torch to avoid discoloration.
  15. Take it to a tire shop and have them loosen the lug nuts with a pnuematic impact wrench!
  16. Hmmm! I'd take a closer look at the front end for possible collision repair. It seems like pretty low miles to have alignment problems. Also, why would they run a buffer on a car that has been used so little unless the body shop did it. I would definitely try to talk with the previous owner. You don't want a crooked car!
  17. Doesn't look good! Looks like you have gouged the plastic with the high speed drill. I would probably try some fine grain wet sandpaper and buff by hand. Then use a plastic polish to finish it off. Odds are that it will never be the same, because if you get the gouges out, it will still have a warped look to it. New headlights might be in order!
  18. You have a ground loop! Typical solution is to ground your units to the chassis. Start with the head unit since you are running the stock amp.
  19. Sorry the belt tightening comment won't help! The wife's Infiniti had the same problem with a squealing belt. The dealer said that it was due to a "cheap" belt being installed instead of OEM. Belt dressing only fixed it for a day. Tightening the belt fixed the problem for that car. The belt dressing I used was similar to electrical contact cleaner. It won't hurt anything but might make your engine a little messy.
  20. Did you try tightening the belt? It might be squealing because it's slipping.
  21. Buy a truck! Where are you going to attach the hitch? To the exhaust pipe!
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