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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. Update on this problem. I've rechecked for vacuum leaks again -- still haven't found anything. To recap, the idle is always rock solid at 800 rpm when the car is stopped (zero speed). Intermittently, while driving at speeds above 10 mph, when I let off the throttle, the car will continue at speed or surge as if the cruise control is on. If I clutch and let off the throttle, the idle will hang around 2200 rpm until I either re-engage a gear or come to a stop. No codes. No CEL. No loss of power. It is definitely not the Idle Control Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor or the Water Temperature Sensor. Tried driving with the MAF unplugged. Problem remains. The car may not do this for days or it may not stop doing this for days, but I've come to realize that if I turn it off and then right back on, it almost always happens at least for a few minutes. I have a call in to schedule an appointment with the dealer for diagnostics next week. Hopefully they can finally put an end to this annoying mystery.
  2. It wouldn't necessarily have to be much taller. Once the trunk lid and clamshell are combined the top could fold in two or three pieces and sit somewhat vertically in the trunk area. Just depends on the ingenuity used when designing the hinges and folding.
  3. I have a 996, so obviously there's no space for a hard top in the trunk, but having a trunk on the Boxsters, I'm suprised that nobody's engineered a retractable hard top. It would take some refabrication of the clamshell and trunk link, so that it was one piece and hinged from the rear, but I think it would be fairly simple to engineer a manual version. The workings of a Mercedes SLK could probably even be re-appropriated and adapted to make it automatic. Of course, I've never really looked closely in the trunk/rear of a Boxster, so this might be way more complicated than I'm thinking. Would anybody be interested in this kind of mod? I'm in the middle of Shelby Cobra build right now, but keep thinking of toying around with an old Boxster when it's finished.
  4. Nice job. Of course, the part I wanted to know the most about was how you put the turbo air ducts on the rear quarters, but I guess that was already done. Had somebody else already started a conversion and abandoned it?
  5. Old tires, even if they have good tread, can get sort of rotten and fall apart at high speeds.
  6. I don't know if there's Firestone Service Centers in your area, but the ones in Houston offer a lifetime alignment package for $140. Once you purchase it, you can have your alignment checked and adjusted as often as you like at any store. The only catch is that expertise and service varies quite a bit from location to location. They charge around $50 for a synthetic oil change, which really isn't that much more than doing it yourself, plus you don't have to mess with clean up, recycling the oil, etc. I just have them do an alignment everytime I'm in for an oil change.
  7. I've seen it mentioned on here before that you can epoxy the tube back together.
  8. Could be the beginning of the end of your starter. When they start going downhill, they don't handle the heat very well. You end up with a car that doesn't want to restart when it's warm. However, as RFM said, it's much better (and often cheaper in the long run) to check things with a tester rather than to just start replacing things.
  9. If it's a bulb filament causing ground, you should be able to test by removing one bulb at a time and checking for changes in the symptoms.
  10. If you have a multimeter, check the battery. If it reads less than 12.4 volts, you'll probably have trouble starting the car and may need to be replaced. Severe cold and heat can be hell on batteries. If you swap it out, start the car and check your voltage again. A correctly charging system should read at least 13.5 volts.
  11. There is no cheap mod for noticeable horsepower. Your best bang for the buck is probably a chip or softronic reflash. To build noticeable horsepower you need to substanstially increase airflow through the engine. You could start with an intake and exhaust. Then you can add a larger throttle body and manifold, new heads, new cam, etc. However, Porsches are already performance vehicles, so finding performance parts engineered to even higher standards costs a pretty penny.
  12. I feel your pain. When I bought my 996, it came with two keys. One had electronics inside it and the LED would blink, but it didn't remotely lock/unlock the doors. The other had no electronics at all. They both would start the car. I took the one with electronics to the dealer. He tried to reflash it, but said it was corrupted and wouldn't take the flashing. I think it was $250 to get a new key head and have it programmed. Now the reprogrammed key will start the car, but the old one without electronics won't. I guess my immobilizer is now active? Anyway, I'm not impressed with the key design. They seem really flaky.
  13. If you're still selling it in pieces, you can probably save a bit by shipping it in several boxes, keeping the weight of each one under 50 pounds. You'll need lots of styrofoam for the casing, so it doesn't get damaged.
  14. I've had one CDR-220 CD player quit on my altogether. It won't even accept CDs into the slot anymore. I picked another used unit up, and now it's acting funny and will randomly shut off when I insert CDs. It might be a better investment to just get the aux cable and an iPod. I've pretty much given up on the CD players.
  15. The complete wiring harness sections do, but the plugs don't. If you want just the plugs you'll have to talk to a service technician not the parts department. They have wiring repair kits with all the different type plugs.
  16. My car had replacement window stitched in & the stitching looks terrible, but that was partially what helped me get a great deal on the car. I've seen replacement tops with a plastic window on eBay for $299, but I can't attest to the quality.
  17. Or if those are tube connectors, these might work. http://www.jegs.com/p/Spectre/769283/10002/-1
  18. Try these guys. http://www.pilotautomotive.com/Catalog.asp...D=30&Page=1 Clamps like that fall under the category of "Engine Dress-up" in most car catalogs, parts stores, etc.
  19. Don't waste your money. Most of them don't work too well, and I doubt the interior lighting would be enough to give it much juice.
  20. Just a guess, but one of your spark plugs might not be firing. Check your coils.
  21. The MAF is in correctly, and wvicary is correct that there would be no way to bolt it in backwards. I've had it out and cleaned it with CRC since this problem began. It seems to be showing good values on the Durametric. The O2 sensors seem to be working correctly as well. Probably a dumb question, but when I pull that temp sensor, is it going to dump coolant everywhere? The temp sensors in all the other cars I've owned were on top of the manifold, so that was never an issue. I'm just checking before I lay down under the car and have it possibly dump on my face.
  22. The temp sensor finally came in today. I'm going to try and swap it out after work tonight. I owe 1999Porsche911 dinner if this solves my problem. If not, I'm going to give up and take it to the dealership.
  23. It's best to start a savings account called Porsche Maintenance Fund because just paying for new tires once a year isn't cheap. However, I haven't found these cars any harder to work on than any other cars, and while the parts cost more, the quality control is higher. There's 103k miles on my 996, and it has the original alternator, power steering pump, a/c compressor, etc. This is the first car of any brand that I've ever owned that's show that kind of quality. The quality control on parts for my 66 Mustang was so bad, that I went through three power steering pumps in less than a year. Lord knows how many alternators I went through on my 87 Mustang back in high school and college. I know it was at least four in the 8 years I owned it, and at least one of those was bad off the shelf and had to be exchanged again. As for the electronics, sensors, etc. they seem to have their problems, but no more than I'd expect from any 10-year-old car. I think 90% of the time problems seem to be electrical or sensor-related, and swapping sensors is easy. The investment in a diagnostic scanner like a Durametric will pay for itself with one use versus the labor hours you'd have to pay a mechanic to replace your MAF.
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