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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. JeTexas
    It seems to me that the only practical solution is a hydraulic shock system that would raise the car chassis 2 or 3 feet higher when you open the door. I'm sure you could tie it in to the sensor that raises and lower the windows.
  2. JeTexas
    In Texas, police officers generally schedule one day a week for court appearances. The general strategy of most offenders is to plead not guilty and ask for a change of court date. Usually if it's a different day of the week, the officer won't have time in his schedule to attend court, and if he's not there to testify, the case gets dismissed. Of course, I've never actually done this as I haven't had a ticket in about 10 years (knock on wood).
  3. JeTexas
    After a Sunday of discussion with more car friends, the last suggestion was to start pulling every electrical plug and clean each one with contact cleaner. It's not very scientific, but I guess it can't hurt anything, and maybe it will help.
  4. JeTexas
    That sounds exactly like my problem. I left it with my mechanic this morning. He couldn't get any codes or get the problem to happen while test driving it, so they only charged me $50 instead of the $99 diagnostic service charge, but I still have no solution.
  5. JeTexas
    I replaced the IACV -- no change. If I go over 3000 rpm, when I clutch the idle hangs at 2000 rpm until I come to a complete stop, then it abruptly drops to 800 rpm. I'm off to return the IACV and the TPS.
  6. JeTexas
    Have you tried cleaning the glue off? I'm not sure what's best to use, probably Simple Green or a light solvent and a stiff bristled brush. You can have just the rear window section sewn in, but make sure you see the shop's work first. The stitching on my rear window meanders and zigzags -- it basically looks like total ***, but it's also why I got a an excellent deal on the car. Oh well.
  7. JeTexas
    The high idle is back. Should have listened to you guys. Ordering the IACV now.
  8. JeTexas
    I swapped the TPS last night. The car ran fine on the way to work this morning, but it did yesterday too. We'll see what happens at lunch and on the commute home. Intermittent problems are such a pain. I swapped out the 4 x .17 x 12mm phillips head screw on the TPS with hex heads, so that if I have to replace this thing in another 100k miles it's not such a pain in the *** to get it off again. Also note the twist tie Porsche recommended as a temporary fix until I can get a new retaining clip for the IAC plug. <a href=" title="DSCF2030 by ffacker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/3080406428_125581107c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCF2030" /></a>
  9. JeTexas
    I wish I had one of those testers available. I guess I need to bite the bullet and order a Durametric. Both the TPS and the IAC have over 100k miles on them, so I figure it doesn't really hurt anything to change them out, and since the TPS in only $80 whereas the IAC is $300, I'm going try that first. If the IAC is bad, it must be that the solenoid is just completely worn out because it's clean and not binding at all when off the car. Supposedly the TPS I ordered from Autozone should be ready for pickup today. Helpful hint, if you lose the little paperclip-looking retaining bracket off the IAC plug, you can hold it on with a twist tie until your local Porsche dealership finally gets one ordered for you. I'm in Houston and have dealerships near both my house and my office, yet neither one seems to keep ANYTHING in stock.
  10. JeTexas
    I rented a scanner and checked the car this morning, but it's not throwing any codes. The only other electronic component I haven't checked is the Throttle Positions Sensor. After reading this Wiki on TPS failure, it sounds like my symptoms. http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Throttle_Position_Sensor Of course, the only way to check it is to order a new one and swap it, so that means another week of waiting. Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to have to dremel/drill off the old one because I cannot get the screws holding it on to budge at all.
  11. JeTexas
    I'll check it, but you'd think that would also affect the gauge on my dash, which seems to be working properly. The incredibly frustrating part is that it's intermittent, and I can't replicate it while sitting in the driveway, only on the road.
  12. JeTexas
    Well, I cleaned the throttle body, the IAC valve, and the MAF sensor (which is less than a year old) ... my throttle is much more lively, but when I clutch, my idle is still sticking at 2000 rpm until I come to a complete stop when it suddenly drops to 800 rpm. Any idea what I should check next?
  13. JeTexas
    The CD player built into the CDR-220 doesn't show this info, so I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the CD changer doesn't either. However, some FM modulaters have RTF, so it will display what it playing on the iPod just like a radio station would. Unfortunately, on my Belkin this only works when I'm sending the iPod over the air through the FM modulater, I don't get anything when I use my AUX line-in.
  14. JeTexas
    I've searched, but I can't quite find anything to match this situation. I have a 99 C2 Cab with a 6-speed. In slow, stop-and-go traffic, when I clutch, the I can watch the engine RPMs drop to 800 and when I'm stopped, my idle is steady at 800 RPM. However, if I spend some time on the freeway and get over say 60 mph, when I get into traffic again and come to a stop, when I clutch, my idle hangs at 2100 RPM and stays there until I come to a complete stop at which time it then suddenly drops to 800 RPM. I thought maybe I had an air leak, so I did a visual inspection, but everything looks good, and I'm also thinking that if it was an air leak the idle would stay elevated once I come to a stop. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm not getting a CEL, and it doesn't really affect the driveability of the car at all, but it's annoying.
  15. JeTexas
    Loren, is there any chance he might just need new spark plugs or wires or would throw a code?
  16. JeTexas
    So on my 99 996, there's two plastic pieces that just pop onto the plastic that cover the manual latch mechanisms loaceted at the center front edge of the top where it meets the windshield. In the past week or so, these plastic pieces have gotten loose and started rattling like crazy when I'm on a bumpy road. I don't know if they're just kind of sagging from the heat or what, but is there supposed to be a bit of foam or something behind them to keep them from rattling? When they get too annoying, I just pull them off, but of course, it doesn't look nice with the holes showing in that overhead thing. Anyone else have this problem? Should I just replace them with newer, stiffer ones or glue a little foam on the back?
  17. JeTexas
    In my opinion, it's a status thing. I think Tool Pants said in a previous forum that he's owned both types and there wasn't any real difference in handling and performance. Go with whichever one you feel good about and makes you happy. (Subliminally tells you 911)
  18. JeTexas
    I was having this problem with intermittent high idle speeds. I had a cracked oil filler tube, and it was occasionally sucking air in through there. Might check there and other places where it could suck in extra air.
  19. JeTexas
    The best consumer camcorder on the market right now is the Canon HF10/HF100. They're the same thing, but the HF10 has some built in memory while the HF100 only uses SD memory cards. It's got a super fast auto focus and somewhat decent optical image stabilization, so you won't get the blur and bounce of the Aiptek. You can also record at full 1920 x 1080p 60i. It also has a mic input and hot shoe, etc. in case you want to do a little more with it. I actually use it for industrial videos and a lot of the footage I shoot rivals what I was getting with a $20k broadcast Panasonic DVCPro. The HF100 runs about $700. A new version called the HF11 that ups the 17MB/s footage to 24MB/s is coming out around Christmas. To edit the video I suggest CyberLink Power Director. It's currently the best product on the market that supports the AVCHD codec that the Canon uses. Pinnacle Studio Ultimate support AVCHD and has more effects, but it's such an incredible resource hog you need an 8-core machine to run it smoothly. Another good option is the JVC HD6. The image quality doesn't quite rate as high as the Canon, but it has the best image stabilization, so you might get a smoother video. Somebody mentioned the Red cameras. There is a new Red Scarlet portable camera coming out, but I can guarantee that unless you're a professional video editor, you won't have a computer that can handle the storage of those files or the workflow.
  20. JeTexas
    I run 89 all the time because I'm a cheap bastard. One tank of 87 won't hurt anything.
  21. JeTexas
    Don't know if this happens on Porsches, but we had a GM where the starter's teeth wore off, so sometimes it didn't turn over the motor, sometimes it did. It got progressively worse and worse until it stopped catching at all.
  22. JeTexas
    The brake cleaner removes the dust and grime, but isn't going to do anything for the vibrations causing the squeal.
  23. JeTexas
    If might be bearings on one of your accessories going bad ...
  24. JeTexas
    What causes the squeal is the resonance of the vibration of the metal. On domestic cars, there's an anti-squeal gel that comes in tubes that you can put on the back of the pads when you install them to stop this vibration. On the Porsches they have shims between the pad and the caliper, which is supposed to do the same job. I don't know if it's advisable to use the anti-squeal compound on the Porsche brakes or not. Loren probably has better info as to why or why not that would work. A non-mettalic brake pad might help.
  25. JeTexas
    Your front brakes do at least 70% of the stopping anyway. I haven't done it, but I don't think you'll have any problems with it. Hot rodders up their front brake size all the time.
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