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Well the polarity of the woofers should be easily to figure out if necessary, I can just swap the + / - to give it a reverse wave. Below are some pictures of my setup: Stripped the front out to run the new wires to the front trunk. Doors Finished Front Console All the original Crap I had to pull out that was poorly done by someone else... The Nokia DSP Module that needed to be removed to make way for the re-located HVAC unit (The DSP controls the factory amp that was removed)

do a search for "porsche avic" on ebay

Just keep in mind, having oil in your intake is NOT a good thing and can lead to some "not so pleasant" troubleshooting and further problems down the road if you don't change it out soon. I would HIGHLY recommend you take the time "NOW" to purcahse a new AOS from Sunset Imports (cheapest Porsche parts around), and DIY to fix this issue before running into other problems later. Yes, it's not a "fun" thing to fix, and it takes a little time and patience to replace, but it's well worth it in the end. The improved and re-designed AOS' Porsche now sells are also most likely at least a few revisions beyond what you currently have installed.

:welcome: Have you tried the search engine yet? I would recommend doing a seach for AVIC Installation. If you plan to use the factory amp with your aftermarket radio, you need a few things. #1, the AVIC DIY explains how you go about installing an after-market radio with the factory harnesses. #2 You can purchase the AVIC Installation kit on E-bay, which comes with the wiring harness you need to hook up your aftermarket Sony, it's a 2 piece assemby, because there are 2 harnesses that your Porsche has to control the radio, amp, and speakers in your vehicle. #3 Depending upon the amp that it's in your car, and the original unit that was in it (you may have to research this), you may or may not have what's referred to as the MOST BUS System. The MOST BUS system is more difficult than others to re-wire since it uses "Fiber Optic" type wiring. If it's anything like my original amp, which was a HAES 6 Channel Amp, and you have a separate module in your console bay to control DSP and Hi-Fi sound, you can not remove this module even after you install an after-market radio. That module controls the factory amp, and has to be connected to get sound. Open up your front hood, and verify the type of amp you have (it's behind the extra tire towards the top). #4 I would highly recommend picking up the Bentley Service Manual for your car or the complete factory Porsche Service Manual for your car if you feel to spend a bit more extra money. Both contain detailed wiring diagrams for your model, and give you the color indicator for the factory wires and which speakers they control.

I second the motion that is probably an AOS issue. There is a TON of information on this forum on how to replace the AOS, and the parts you need to do the job yourself (depending on whether or not you have an e-gas car, or older). Depending upon your driving, or if you go to the track, you may also want to research purchasing and fitting your vehicle with the "beefier" version of the AOS that Porsche uses on their track cars that will fit in the Boxster. This is the Motorsports AOS, which is a bigger, and bit more tight fitting, but features a completely dual compartment AOS meant for handling more aggressive driving (i.e. sharper turns at high velocity).

If the engine that was being replaced came from a 3.2 Boxster S, the fact that it was bored to a 3.4 specification shouldn't matter... it's still a 3.2 S engine. That would mean that as a plug-and-play solution, you would need to fit it was a standard 6-speed manual transmission (as the boxster S uses a 6-speed manual transmission). However, since the original car was a 1997 Boxster, I don't believe E-Gas was introduced yet (essentially the fly-by-wire). The engine, would in my guess, already contain the throttle body assembly with e-gas, however, the pedal and electronics in the driver's foot pedal bay would not be present. So the pedal assembly for e-gas would likely also need to be replaced. The dual-mass flywheel, and clutch assembly with pressure plate would need to also come from a Boxster S, and be replaced, along with the shifting cables and linkages necessary to swap in the 6-spd shifter. It might just be my opinion, but I don't think hooking up a 5-spd transmission to a Boxster S engine is even a possibility without some serious re-workage of parts. Would be MUCH easier to swap in the e-gas and 6-spd trans. Because the engine is bored to a 3.4 specification, however, it may be necessary to look for a heavier duty flywheel / clutch assembly that can support the torque of the increased size of the engine. My 2 cents

The real original thought here was as follows: My audio system is completely overhauled as is. I completely gutted it, re-wired it, and replaced all the speakers. The original HAES 6 CH. Amp, with Rear Speaker compartment (Just speakers not the bose subwoofer system), was taken out. I replaced it with 2 JL Audio Amps, 1 300 x 4 and 1 300 x 2. The 300 x 4, drives the front and rear channel speakers, Front (being the dash) were replaced with MB Quartz Premium 4" speakers + 2" tweeters. The rear deck, I took out all 4 OEM speakers, and replaced with JL TR 3.5" speakers. The doors, I completely dynomatted, cut out custom speaker enclosures, and fit 2 JL Audo ZR-650 (6.5") woofers. The front dash is completely isolated on the "FRONT CHANNEL" through a crossover. The doors and Rear speakers are isolated as the "REAR CHANNEL" through a cross-over. Doors play lows, rear deck plays mids and highs. The Head Unit itself was replaced and custom fitted with the Alpine Audio IVA-W505/P1 with Navigation, bluetooth, XM, etc. The 300 x 2 amp, I pre-wired for later use with 1 or 2 subwoofers. For the longest time, I couldn't find a practical, factory looking, option that would meet the needs of the system... until I found the BOSE speaker deck. The outlook as follows: Analyze the 2 speakers in the far corners of the BOSE deck (not the subwoofers, but the 2 speakers) and check their size, and wether or not I can fit them with the JL TR-3.5" speakers I have already. If not, then I'll find a quality speaker that will fit. I will re-analyze the wiring for these speakers, and run them through the factory harness that is already wired to the speaker deck I already have in place. Now the subwoofers themself. Those will get replaced (wether or not I do the focal utopia or not, is still yet to be determined). The wires for those, are completely new anyways, and separate from everything else. They will be isolated to the JL Audio 300 x 2 Amp, which already is connected to the Subwoofer Pre-Outs on the head unit. The wiring for all this is for the most part, already in place. Again, I have to wait to actually get the bose compartment to really take a look at it, but I don't see this being an incedibly difficult procedure to complete the way I want it to. The original design back when I replacing all the speakers and head unit looked like the following, minus the subwoofer. But now that I'm adding the subwoofer, the design remains somewhat similar other than the fact I won't be briding to 1 subwoofer, but running stereo for 2 on it's own amp.

What about the Focal Utopia 13 WS? Says it can be sealed or vented? (Not sure exactly what the "vented" means). It's a 5" subwoofer. I found the specifications on this subwoofer... 3.52362 inches deep 15.04 cm wide (that's the entire surface area, including the mounting area. width seems a little wide for the hole.... guess I'll have to wait to get the box, and measure the surface area to find out, unless anyone else has better details?

Thanks por911 You've been very helpful! I ordered the mandrel tool (I like to have "real" tools if it's within reason anyways). One other thing I noticed pelican and a couple of others had this posted under "removal of transmission bolts" They call it the "Magnetic Box "V" Wrench (17mm)." Is this really a helpful tool I should consider? Or should I just bypass it for now? I've got a pretty hefty tool collection and caddy already... just curious if it makes life a lot easier or not.

Interesting... Yea I just bought the Bose box, and plan to replace the subs (if that's what you can call them) with ACTUAL subs. In my current setup, I'm using 2 aftermarket JL audio amps, with one of them already pre-wired to power subs. All the speakers and wiring has already been run, and I've currently just got the "rear speaker" system back there... but it doesn't do much for me. Question is, what speakers can I easily swap out that will fit in the factory spots. Sounds like there's some confusion as to wether or not there is 1 sub, or 2 subs, and if they are 13CM (5") or 5.25 inch drivers? What about the other 2 spekars that appear to be in there?

Hey guys, Does anyone the speaker specifications (sizes) that come with the Rear Bose Subwoofer speaker deck? It appears it has 3 speakers, 2 mid-range, and 1 sub-woofer in the middle. Curious as to what the specifications and sizes are. Thanks!

Who makes this tool?

Depends, are you installing aftermarket amplifiers? Or using the stock? Either way, you'll have to determine if you want the rears as part of the front outputs, or the rear outputs. I used aftermarket amps since I wanted to eliminate the Nokia DSP unit (which required removing the factory 6-CH HAES amp), and changed the front dash speakers to run purely off the Front Channel Outputs (X-OVER for Mid-range 4" and Tweeters), and then for the doors and rear speakers, since I upgraded to 6.5" woofers, and 4 x 3.5" mid-range in the rear, I used an X-OVER to separate the Highs from the lows, and then ran the inputs from the X-OVER to the Outputs of the rear. In otherwords, The Front Channel is Purely the dash speakers, The Rear Channel is doors and rear speakers.

I ordered the OTC 4324 Stinger Engine Support Bar. I was also going to get the $10 Clutch Alignment tool from Pelican unless someone can think of a better tool. Also, I plan to do the 3mm hole drill into the RMS seal, and thread a sheet metal screw in. Does anyone know of a good tool I can use to extract the RMS fairly easily?

Sweet, that's exactly what I was looking for! Do you happen to know if I still need to purchase the special "feet" from Porsche? Or will the ones that come with it work?

Hey guys here's a tough one... Anyone know where to find VW or Audi special tools at a good price or to rent per chance? I'm looking for VW 10-222A which is an engine support bar shared by Audi / VW / BMW / and Porsche. Porsche Part # 9591/1 are the feet for this bar. Looks like Baum is the maker of it, but not 100% on that. Thanks!

Does anyone have or know where I can can get Porsche Tool 9591/1 with the support bar and chain to support the engine? I called over to Sunset, and the guy said that 9591/1 is just the feet that attach to the sides of the engine compartment. I ordered the RMS seal press tool 9609/1, RMS seal, replacement bolts, and the flywheel lock 9538/1.

Thanks kbrandsma, I may take you up on that offer ;) I noticed you mention setting the RMS at 14mm instead of 13mm. The tool you used to set it, did you notch it or mark it at that point? It was my understanding that I likely have an "older version" RMS seal, and that there's a newer model # Porsche has which seams to be better in terms of ever having a "repeat leak." Just curious on the rhyme or reason for setting it beyond the 13mm. Thanks

Can anyone recommend a decent transmission jack out there? Also, are the following Porsche parts necessary, or can I use something else? 9591/1 - engine support bar 9538/1 - Flywheel lock Clutch Alignment Tool (Pilot shaft alignment) - Not sure on the part # 9237 - RMS puller 9609/1 - RMS Seal Press Am I forgetting anything, or can I possibly use something else (more easily accesibile)?

How do you know? ;) Just kidding... What size is the triple square head and is it a tamper-proof type or standard?

Thanks Jake, so is the new re-engineered IMS bearing something I can purchase yet and do myself while I have this beast apart? Or is this still something that can only be done in your shop for now? *EDIT* Just looked up the IMS retrofit kit, anyway of knowing if the 00' S 3.2 engine I have has the "single-row bearing" as you mention ahead of time? As in... is their a certian year or engine they stopped putting in the single-row (as opossed to the dual-row)? Or am I just going to have to remove it like you suggest and check it out?

OMG... I'm such an idiot... you'll probably remember me complaining in other threads related to my alarm doing the "one beep" occassionally.... and I couldn't figure it out. I just lived with it, and said... "bah, it's one beep... and it only does it sometimes... what's the big deal...." You know what it was? The CONSOLE lid being open! I put a little 2 cup holder modification inside that compartment, and I sometimes have a diet coke can or something else in there, and when I get out, the top of the lid rests on the can... so it's open. Sure enough, because the lid was open, THAT was the reason I was getting the 1 beep sound occassionally. Because "ocassionally" my lid was open.... I didn't even think about it... Lol..... Congratulations! I'm a moron! hahaha. :P

consider the IMS retrofit from LnEngineering. mike I'm not sure the IMS retrofit is available for my model yet? Last time I checked, it wasn't a DIY for an 00' S. Perhaps that's changed now?

Hey guys, So after crawling around underneath the car, replacing the fuel filter, etc. I've decided I'm going to take on replacing the RMS myself. I've got the good ol' "slow leaker" lol. The clutch and transmission were already re-placed brand new about a year ago and work just fine. But the oil drippage is annoying, and I want to fix it. While I'm removing the rear bumper, flywheel, transmission, exhaust etc. and seeing that this is a nice bit o' work to accomplish, what should I consider checking and replacing in addition to the RMS while i've got all this stuff out? It looks like I'll be needing 8 new bolts for the flywheel. Anything else in terms of hardware I should replace? Anything else of importance I should inspect while under the belly of the beast? Gracias

I'm talking specifically about Sunset, for an "S." All factory parts. I guess I was just trying to make sure that those prices were pretty accurate. I'll do the work myself... no sense in bringing it to the dealer for an extra arm and a leg in cost ;)