Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

LVDell

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    1,146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by LVDell

  1. Are you sure you got 1125 AND 1126 at the same time? One is for 1-3 rich and 4-6 lean. Very odd. Also, as long as your CEL is not flashing you do not need to have it towed. Drive it in.
  2. As opposed to 35 series profile tires? Here is a link that will allow you to test out rolling diameter, etc. with different tires sizes. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
  3. Greg, I bought the one at Sears that has the needle on it. I tried the preset one and did not like it at all. I felt as though it was going past the preset. With the needle you can actually see the torque number you are at (increasing) as you tighten. Also, it happens to be the least expensive one!
  4. I like the topic, but maybe it should be in an off topic to accomodate all? FYI, I feel the same way too. If I get into a 4-door it will be either an M5 or an S55
  5. Glad it worked out :) Cheers, Dell
  6. How can you be ok with these safety issues (or lack therof)? Not smart to cut costs expecailly when they pertain to safety. Still do not understand you logic on that one. This is a P-Car you are dealing with. Fix it correctly and you will not have surprise repairs and problems in the future that will set you back more than you are trying to save right now.
  7. Are the flaps getting caught up? They are the ones that fold down the side near the body.
  8. Loren is absolutely correct. I replaced most of mine for under $2
  9. The first question I woudll ask is why would want to be less safe in your car and replace with a non-airbag component? I am confused on this one. Please tell me it is not becasue you are trying to save a few bucks.
  10. The process is in your manual. However, your problem may be as simple as a micro-switch replacment. Does the "BRAKE" light up on your instrument cluster when you pullup the brake handle in order to operate the top? If it doesn't then you will probably need to replace the micro-switch that is connected to the e-Brake.
  11. Certainly your choice. I (personally) would just stay away from non-Porsche parts to get the effect of a genuine part in this instance. Hate to have anything go wrong and then be out 5X as much in repairs.
  12. Ski.....it was not just tape. It was primarily screws/clips that hold it in place. The tape was added as additional support to keep it close to the body. It is no big deal. Takes no time at all to remove the skirt (clips and screws), clean the surface really well, apply the new tape, and replace.
  13. Check out Excellence. I have seen them as low as $2,400 for the paid in black leather WITH the crest.
  14. Is this the kit you are talking about? http://www.xenondepot.com/product.php?product_id=4 If so, spend the money and get the litronic kit that Porsche makes and do it right. I got mine new for $1K.
  15. Is there a DIY for the plate (i.e, torques rec's etc.)??? I have the plate but have not installed it yet.
  16. Very sharp wheels! By the way, don't you mean NE snow season?
  17. That's it? Seems a bit low for that install. The product is extrememly inexpensive for the distributor (a few bucks for what you won).....the cost is in the install. I would check out other work they have done and make sure you are happy with it. Also, you want to make sure they are using the newest 3M film that doesn't yellow in time. And most importantly.......warranty. I would ask ALOT of questions since this work runs in the 400-800 range depending on the job and for a cayenne it should be toward the high end. But, if you are satisfied with work they have done on others and got the TOTAL install price IN WRITING ahead of time (not an estimate) then give it serious consideration.
  18. Nope. The narrow body rears offset are 65 for a 10" and 63 for the 11".
  19. Welcome! Have seen you around on rennlist. Glad you found renntech as well. This is a great site for all your technical needs. The Targa is a a beauty! And like Don said "...more pics?" ") Cheers, Dell
  20. Care to eleaborate? Brake pads that eat rotors and vice versa???
  21. unless you want the potential for that airbag to explode in your face! You need to disconnect the battery to change out the steering wheel to avoid this mishap.
  22. Thanks everybody TP....wow, after reading the first article I decided against the drilled, then after reading the second link I decided for them..... SO CONFUSED.
  23. Getting ready to replace the rotors on my MB SUV and was wondering what the advantages of "upgrading" to drilled rotors form the normal smooth rotors would be. Figured the P-Car community would know best how to answer this since all I get on the MB boards is "they look cool" or "drilling is strictly for looks". Any factual statements would be appreciated. Pads last longer? Rotors last longer? Better stopping power? etc. Thanks for the input. Cheers, Dell
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.