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About eshuber

  • Birthday 11/19/1941

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Carrera and 2009 Mazda 5
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    1970 911 with 2.7L Carrera RS engine
    1973 911 T upgraded to 911S specs

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  1. Intermediate shaft(or bearing) failure is a known failure with the M96 engine. The TT uses the aircooled split- case design with the 8 main bearing crank. It is pretty much the same as the GT-2. And is very reliable. The TT sounds you posted are identical to the many air-cooled (normally aspirated)911s I have owned over the years. And which have the same basic intermediate shaft design as your TT. It is interesting that the chain tensioners were replaced- the chain will rattle if the tensioner is collapsed - but usually only when cold.
  2. Hi A 73 911 would be my recommendation. It was the pre-emission version. In 1974 , Porsche had to use the dreaded "thermal reactors" on the exhaust to meet emissions. This resulted in overheating and ultimately pulled head studs. The 73 doesn't have that problem. I suggest you look for an early 911 that someone else has already changed out the engine to a 3.2L. The 915 transmission used in the 72 and later cars is ok - it will handle the extra power but the shifting isn't as crisp as a G50( I don't know if a G50 will even fit in an early 911). Hope this helps. Ed in Austin, TX.
  3. Has there been any clutch work done? This is sounds like a rattle you could get with a single-mass flywheel. If it is , its nothing to worry about unless the noise bothers you.
  4. This is a good link on cleaning the radiators: http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Blog/B600...4135/index.html
  5. I wouldn't use a vacuum pump to change the oil or brake fluid. 1.Draining the oil is the proper method - when its warm and drain for at least 20mins - since it will help remove any sediment and most of the contaminents. Vacuuming with a Mityvac won't. 2. Porsche recommends pressure bleeding the brake system to refresh the fluid. The Motive power bleeder is the one most frequently recommended. If you use a Mityvac , you can't tell if all the air is out of the system since air can get introduced at the bleeder valve into the bleeder hose - and possibly enter the brake system too. You could also use the 2 person manual system for bleeding the brakes.
  6. I would search all over other forums. Comments regarding MotorMeister are mostly not positive. Don't know about East Coast. I have used Competition Engineering on the West Coast - they are very good. I do know people that have used Ollie's(West Coast) with positive results. I suggest you contact Stoddard's on the East Coast - they can point you to a good rebuilder. Or ask the question on the PCA web-site technical forum - Ed Mayo will have a recommendation. Good luck.
  7. CHF 202 supercedes 11S. The PCA posting you reference is dated 11/05 - I believe that Porsche issued a TSB in early 2006 that basically says this.
  8. Before the warranty went out on my 02 , I had the dealer do an undercarriage inspection , looking primarily for leaks, esp. oil leaks.
  9. That looks like a pressure relief valve - it fits in the bottom of the oil filter canister - flat side down. I have not seen one come loose like that. I suspect it is just a press fit in the canister.
  10. That looks like the vent tube for the battery - on my stock battery , it attaches in the center closest to the bulkhead. Ed
  11. I am of the "nothing lasts forever" camp and that includes coolant. Changing the coolant is fairly straightforward - the only tricky part is bleeding all the air out of the system. Go to the PCA website and search under "coolant" in the tech forum section for the boxster. There is a very detailed description by Scott Slausen on how to do coolant change including the bleeding process without the vacuum pump from the dealer.
  12. My 02 996 purchased new with 35k miles has been very reliable - the only issue was RMS leaks(multiple). Finally, the dealer replaced the engine. The leak was not bad - only a minor problem and I wouldn't have had fixed if the car was out of warranty. If you are looking for a daily driver , I would chose the 996 over a 993 or 964. Its much more comfortable to me. Both the 993 and 964 had their problems too - primarily early valve guide wearout requiring top end rebuild. Also - the 993s have problems with the secondary air injection system which results in CEL light and failure of emission test. 964s are known for distributor belt failure(if not replaced) causing detonation and eventual major engine problems. Read the article on the 996 engine by Jim Pasha on this site. Excellence magazine has good overview articles on the various Porsche models too. Good luck.
  13. Don't mean to beat this subject to death but does the referenced link cover MY2002? Its not clear from looking at their website. Thanks for the help.
  14. I suggest going to tirerack.com and looking at the survey results for the brands you are interested in. Noise ratings are included there.
  15. The only reason I can think of not to use the "pump the pedal" technique is overtravel on the master cylinder - i.e. the master cylinder seal may be damaged when is goes into the bore area not normally used. I know - using this method resulted in master cylinder failure on an Audi immediately after doing a brake bleed. Get a pressure bleeder - they are cheap and easy to use.
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