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eshuber

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Everything posted by eshuber

  1. eshuber
    Intermediate shaft(or bearing) failure is a known failure with the M96 engine. The TT uses the aircooled split- case design with the 8 main bearing crank. It is pretty much the same as the GT-2. And is very reliable. The TT sounds you posted are identical to the many air-cooled (normally aspirated)911s I have owned over the years. And which have the same basic intermediate shaft design as your TT. It is interesting that the chain tensioners were replaced- the chain will rattle if the tensioner is collapsed - but usually only when cold.
  2. eshuber
    Hi A 73 911 would be my recommendation. It was the pre-emission version. In 1974 , Porsche had to use the dreaded "thermal reactors" on the exhaust to meet emissions. This resulted in overheating and ultimately pulled head studs. The 73 doesn't have that problem. I suggest you look for an early 911 that someone else has already changed out the engine to a 3.2L. The 915 transmission used in the 72 and later cars is ok - it will handle the extra power but the shifting isn't as crisp as a G50( I don't know if a G50 will even fit in an early 911). Hope this helps. Ed in Austin, TX.
  3. eshuber
    Has there been any clutch work done? This is sounds like a rattle you could get with a single-mass flywheel. If it is , its nothing to worry about unless the noise bothers you.
  4. eshuber
    This is a good link on cleaning the radiators: http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Blog/B600...4135/index.html
  5. eshuber
    I wouldn't use a vacuum pump to change the oil or brake fluid. 1.Draining the oil is the proper method - when its warm and drain for at least 20mins - since it will help remove any sediment and most of the contaminents. Vacuuming with a Mityvac won't. 2. Porsche recommends pressure bleeding the brake system to refresh the fluid. The Motive power bleeder is the one most frequently recommended. If you use a Mityvac , you can't tell if all the air is out of the system since air can get introduced at the bleeder valve into the bleeder hose - and possibly enter the brake system too. You could also use the 2 person manual system for bleeding the brakes.
  6. eshuber
    I would search all over other forums. Comments regarding MotorMeister are mostly not positive. Don't know about East Coast. I have used Competition Engineering on the West Coast - they are very good. I do know people that have used Ollie's(West Coast) with positive results. I suggest you contact Stoddard's on the East Coast - they can point you to a good rebuilder. Or ask the question on the PCA web-site technical forum - Ed Mayo will have a recommendation. Good luck.
  7. eshuber
    CHF 202 supercedes 11S. The PCA posting you reference is dated 11/05 - I believe that Porsche issued a TSB in early 2006 that basically says this.
  8. eshuber
    Before the warranty went out on my 02 , I had the dealer do an undercarriage inspection , looking primarily for leaks, esp. oil leaks.
  9. eshuber
    That looks like a pressure relief valve - it fits in the bottom of the oil filter canister - flat side down. I have not seen one come loose like that. I suspect it is just a press fit in the canister.
  10. eshuber
    That looks like the vent tube for the battery - on my stock battery , it attaches in the center closest to the bulkhead. Ed
  11. eshuber
    I am of the "nothing lasts forever" camp and that includes coolant. Changing the coolant is fairly straightforward - the only tricky part is bleeding all the air out of the system. Go to the PCA website and search under "coolant" in the tech forum section for the boxster. There is a very detailed description by Scott Slausen on how to do coolant change including the bleeding process without the vacuum pump from the dealer.
  12. eshuber
    My 02 996 purchased new with 35k miles has been very reliable - the only issue was RMS leaks(multiple). Finally, the dealer replaced the engine. The leak was not bad - only a minor problem and I wouldn't have had fixed if the car was out of warranty. If you are looking for a daily driver , I would chose the 996 over a 993 or 964. Its much more comfortable to me. Both the 993 and 964 had their problems too - primarily early valve guide wearout requiring top end rebuild. Also - the 993s have problems with the secondary air injection system which results in CEL light and failure of emission test. 964s are known for distributor belt failure(if not replaced) causing detonation and eventual major engine problems. Read the article on the 996 engine by Jim Pasha on this site. Excellence magazine has good overview articles on the various Porsche models too. Good luck.
  13. eshuber
    Don't mean to beat this subject to death but does the referenced link cover MY2002? Its not clear from looking at their website. Thanks for the help.
  14. eshuber
    I suggest going to tirerack.com and looking at the survey results for the brands you are interested in. Noise ratings are included there.
  15. eshuber
    The only reason I can think of not to use the "pump the pedal" technique is overtravel on the master cylinder - i.e. the master cylinder seal may be damaged when is goes into the bore area not normally used. I know - using this method resulted in master cylinder failure on an Audi immediately after doing a brake bleed. Get a pressure bleeder - they are cheap and easy to use.
  16. eshuber
    Getting ready to do a coolant change on my 02 - 996 and would appreciate some board help. I know that Porsche says its "permanent" but IMHO 5 yrs is long enough for coolant. Questions: What is the best method for flushing out the old coolant? I was going to drain old coolant and add fresh water - then bring up to operating temp. and cool down. Then drain again. Any better way? Also - what is the difficulty in bleeding the air out of the system? It seems that I saw a post by Loren that you need a vacuum pump. Is that necessary or can you just "burp" it a few times with the pressure relief valve on the coolant tank? Many thanks for your inputs Ed in Austin,Tx.
  17. eshuber
    Hi My 02 996 with 34k does the same thing you are describing- except it takes only about 5 secs for the alternator to start charging after washing. So - I usually wash it on an incline to minimize the engine water intake or wait a couple of hours for the car to dry.
  18. eshuber
    Hi I have had serveral 2.2 and 2.4 motors -every one had substantial wear to the intermediate shaft bearings. However , not a one exhibited the symptoms you describe - and all were fairly high mileage - around 100k. When the chain tensioners were replaced , did you notice if the chains tensioned properly and were not worn excessively? Have the chains been replaced recently? Did you inspect the chain sprockets and the rails? Hope this helps Ed Huber
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