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Stefan

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Everything posted by Stefan

  1. Stefan
    This is perfect for me. My car is a 1999 with 96k miles. My AOS went a couple of years ago and my throttle body and ICV have never been cleaned. The idle is ok but the car has recently become more reluctant to settle down to idle. It definitely feels like something is sticking. I'll get the replacement gasket and clean it all out. I have little doubt it will make a noticeable improvement. Your instructions gave me the motivation to do this. It's always satisfying when you can fix problems like this with a relatively small amount of effort and minimal cost.
  2. Stefan
    Thanks for the great instructions and pictures. One question: why did you use degreaser and carburetor cleaner? Doesn't the carburetor cleaner degrease too? Also, do you have a picture of the gasket and/or the part number?
  3. Stefan
    If I was doing it I would probably cut out a single wide flat piece of plastic and heat it up until it can be bent to match the contour of the existing piece. As far as mounting I would have to see the existing part close up but I would probably do sunken rivets or hex bolts. It might be hard to get glue to work well and it wouldn't be easily removable/replaceable.
  4. Stefan
    Or perhaps there is a spacer on one side and not the other?
  5. Stefan
    Here is a link to a picture of the one sold by Performance Products. Maybe the picture will give you ideas. http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...t/photo_05.html
  6. Stefan
    It sounds like that useless part that anyone who has installed a short shift kit had to remove and discard.
  7. Stefan
    Sorry, I misread your earlier post. You're both right.
  8. Stefan
    So the correct answer to rockymount1's last question is that if he buys a US cluster he will not have to re-enable OBC. His car is a 1999 which does not have the new cluster. (I wish you could put the dot matrix cluster on the 1999s but you can't)
  9. Stefan
    TP, I thought the OBC was enabled in the DME, not the cluster. If that is the case, OBC should just work in any 1999-compatible cluster that gets swapped in.
  10. Stefan
    A friend and I both have Ocean Blue Boxsters (which is a dark blue in case you didn't know). He has the clear 3rd brake light. I have the smoked. I have to say that I think the smoked looks much better. For some reason you don't notice it as much when you're standing behind the car but when I drive behind him, the clear brake light really sticks out. There's something about the way it reflects sunlight. It is too bright and detracts from the beauty of the car. I haven't seen the same problem with tail lights, just the 3rd brake light.
  11. Stefan
    I did a similar writeup with more pictures and detail... (Identical procedure for 996 and Boxster) http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Alarm%2C_Key...your_Remote_Key
  12. Stefan
    Excellent writeup, whall. It's always good to hear not only how to do it but what might go wrong. One question: how much did you pay for the instrument cluster mileage reset? I have seen some pretty high prices out there.
  13. Stefan
    I'm not quite sure what "pulse" means and it matters. Your PSU is expecting something specific and you need to make sure that you feed in what it expects. Can you find that out (browse some discussions on that PSU, for example)? When you have that information I will look at the Boxster wiring diagram and tell you how to get what you need.
  14. Stefan
    I just looked up the Carnetix P2140. That's a pretty cool device. I didn't know they made such a thing. I will post more info soon. I was too busy last night to do it. As Chris pointed out, you can get switched (by the igntion) power from the telephone cable. But I suspect that that is not what your PSU is looking for. They are probably looking for a non-powered signal (connectivity or connection to ground). You can get that using a relay from the telephone cable if you have to. But there is probably an easier way. If I send you the wiring diagram, are you capable of figuring it out? (I don't know how good you are with this stuff) If not, I can take a look at it but I am pretty busy so I might not get to it right away.
  15. Stefan
    I still recommend using the stock fuse box, even if you are planning to put the computer in the front trunk. It will require you to run one wire (power) from the fuse box to the front trunk. That isn't very difficult. There are some holes with other wires already and you can put it through there. There is a spare fuse position for this purpose. I don't remember where it is off the top of my head but the fuse list shows it as something like "Spare Accessory (unused)". I used it to add a second cigarette lighter in my car. I can provide better instructions regarding the fuse box later (when I'm at home). But basically, you unscrew the fuse box (4 philips screws), pull the fuse box out, add a metal pin in the back (to hold the fuse - you'll have to get this part), and connect the wire from the common power cable (which goes to all of the fuses) to that pin. Once you pull out the fuse panel, it should be more obvious. Ground you can get by connecting to any of the many existing ground points on the chassis. There should be some in the front trunk. In fact, I'd bet that the ground on the battery goes directly to the chassis. ---- What are you going to use switched power for? Are you going to introduce a delayed shut down after the accessories are turned off? You'll need a timer circuit and extra relay for that.
  16. Stefan
    It depends on how much power his PSU requires. IIRC, the telephone plug is relatively low power and probably won't be sufficient for a Mac Mini, which is not a mobile (read: low power) computer. I would personally wire a new circuit from the fuse box. There is at least one blank slot in the fuse box for just that purpose. It makes access to the fuse very easy. He may even be able to connect the computer to the stock amplifier bracket, which could keep it out of the way of everything and could make for a very clean install.
  17. Stefan
    I don't think he has everything he wants from the phone plug. He wants a signal that tells him when the alarm is deactivated, presumably to boot up the computer from the remote so that it is ready by the time he turns on the car and turn it off (initiate shutdown) when the alarm is activated.
  18. Stefan
    OT: what is that between your amplifier and the spare tire?
  19. Stefan
    If you take the wheel off or turn the wheel all the way, you can see the control arms. The bushing that makes the noise is the one closest to the wheel, where the transverse control arm (3) meets the lower control arm (6). Spray it liberally with your favorite rubber-safe lubricant. You may be able to do it with the wheel on the car, in which case, I would have someone push down on the car repeatedly while you spray the lubricant so you can hear when you get the right spot. As a point of reference, where the "6" points to in the picture is just inside the wheel. I know a guy who never replaced them. He just lubes it every 6 months and has 135k+ miles on his Boxster. IIRC, they are between $200 and $300 for the part.
  20. Stefan
    I take it back. I found and inspected at the pin diagram for the ECU and the alarm and it must be the alarm. See attachments for alarm pin diagram.
  21. Stefan
    I got a clue about how to solve your problem by looking at this product: http://www.pcars.com/shop.php/porsche/boxs...-coupe/p_5.html which taps into the key remote signal. From the looks of their connector, it seems as if it intercepts the signal at the ECU. The ECU is easily accessible by pulling back the carpet in the rear trunk. I've seen the ECU pin diagram here somewhere but I'm having trouble finding it right now. The gurus (ToolPants, Loren) probably have it.
  22. Stefan
    If it's the heat shields on the exhaust, you can usually hear it when you bang on the exhaust pipes with a rubber mallet. (Car stopped, engine off)
  23. Stefan
    Have any of you replacing the clutch because of RMS measured how much clutch wear you have? You could estimate the life of your next disc by calculating what percentage of the clutch friction material had worn compared to the number of miles. I would certainly be curious.
  24. Stefan
    If it sounds like a creaking sound is probably the lower control arm bushing. That's what it was on my car. To properly fix it, you have to replace the control arm and get an alignment. You can lube it to make the problem go away for a little while but it will come back. To answer your question: it's a flawed design IMO.
  25. Stefan
    It's probably the rear control arm, which has nothing to do with speed or turning. And it's a common problem. See here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11823
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