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Stefan

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Everything posted by Stefan

  1. Stefan
    We must be talking about two different things. I just bought an extra bellows tube (part # 996.107.237.52) for $13. Part # 10 in this picture Looks like this
  2. Stefan
    One other note: the bolts/studs have rounded heads so I suspect they are supposed to be built in. If anyone has any tips for removing them anyway, I am all ears.
  3. Stefan
    I am trying to replace the exhaust headers on my 1999 Boxster (w/3.4L engine). I have all of the parts including fresh bolts to connect the header to the existing catalytic converters (3-bolt triangular connection). However, the existing bolts/studs are corroded. So I can't tell if they are welded on or if they are removable. On the parts diagrams, the bolts seem to be separate parts (part #23 in this diagram) I think the diagram is wrong for my car since my car has separate headers and cats. Is there a way to remove these studs? One is broken and they are all corroded. I really prefer to replace them if possible.
  4. Stefan
    I agree completly. Nowadays, they seem to always sell the AOS with the bottom rubber tube. But it's worth asking them to be sure. If not, the part is very cheap anyway.
  5. Stefan
    I highly recommend using a spring clamp tool. It makes the job much easier. Then there is no need to cut the bellows. Here's the one I got (for $10): "Craftsman Swivel Jaw Hose Plier" http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...05&sLevel=0 I also advise against replacing the spring clamp with a screw type one. The spring clamp automatically has the right tension and with the above tool it is pretty easy to put in place.
  6. Stefan
    Success! I filled the cavity with PB Blaster (awesome stuff) and let it sit for about a minute. Then I put a screwdriver in the slot and turned it. For the first time, the flap budged but barely. I did this about 50 times and it loosened up a ton. I did the same thing with WD40 just for good measure. I used compressed air to get rid of excess lubricant. I put the ICV back in the car and it ran much better and idled lower than before (previously 1100 or so, now at about 900 - still too high). So I again took out the ICV. I noticed that the flap would only close as far as the point it had previously been stuck. I filled the cavity with WD40 but it was still difficult to force the flap all the way closed. I forced the flap closed, then open and repeated many times. I put it all back on the car and the car is idling excellently. I took the car on a quick trip down the road and it seems to run smoother but that could easily be my imagination. Note that the flap doesn't push in as I had incorrectly guessed from the photo in the PDF in this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...3120&hl=icv It actually pushes to the side. $260 part replacement averted (for now). Big thanks to Loren and Pk for their advice.
  7. Stefan
    It is stuck partly open. It wasn't budging at all and I pushed fairly hard. I will try some penetrating oil and perhaps some WD-40 to see if I can get it to budge. I am assuming that you can push straight inward to get it to hinge. That is what it seems like from the one relevant picture I have seen. I'll probably end up breaking it but what the hay.
  8. Stefan
    Yeah, it sounds like mine is bad. I just wasn't sure if power is required to be connected for the flap to be movable. I will check with Sunset. Does the idle control valve being stuck affect the way the car runs when not at idle? I would think it does since the channels from the throttle body seem to always be open to the ICV.
  9. Stefan
    I am tracking down some problems with my car and as a matter of course I removed the idle control valve to clean it. Looking at the various posts on the subject it sounds like you should be able to push the valve open with a screwdriver. However, even after letting it soak for over an hour in carb cleaner, I cannot get any part of the valve to move. From the pictures it looks like I sould be able to push straight in on the metal flap. But it won't budge. Should I try to force it? Replacements are really expensive (around $300) and I'm thinking of getting a used one. My car has 110k miles on it and it idles high when warm.
  10. Stefan
    Thanks, guys. That's what I thought. Porsche's "special tools" are not always so special.
  11. Stefan
    I have the instructions from the shop manual on how to check the fuel system pressure and I have some questions: From Step 2: "Connect pressure gauge (special tool P 378a) with connecting line (special tool 9559) and connect to test connection." That's a lot of "connect"s :P Q1: Is this really a Porsche specific part or might I be able to borrow (or buy) such a thing from the local auto parts store? From Step 4: "The seal or sealing ring in the brass closure cap is not exchangeable. It must therefore be used only once." Q2: Am I correct in assuming that this means I should buy a new cap before attempting to test the fuel pressure? Q3: Is this part # 993.110.218.01 CAP they are referring to?
  12. Stefan
    When you align the car (or get it aligned), don't foget to make sure they align it to the new specs. They should have the specs in their computer but they have to know that your car is ROW Sport (which is different even than just ROW).
  13. Stefan
    ziiz996, Sorry you're dealing with such a mess. If you get the wiring diagrams for the two cars (the 3.4L and 3.6L) you can look at where each pin in the connector goes in both cases and write it down. Then do the conversion by swapping the wires appropriately. It will require some time and patience but it shouldn't be too difficult. I would concentrate on looking at the wiring diagrams. Anything that communicates via CAN bus (the things mentioned earlier in this thread) will have to be replaced and connected to the CAN bus wires. It's not that complicated, really. You may have to tell the DME (using a PST2 or PIWIS) about the new CAN bus items. (I've never done it but that makes sense since they are coded).
  14. Stefan
    I don't have the lower brace but I have front and rear upper braces on my Boxster. With the above braces, the handling is definitely improved. The car handles much more coupe-like. However, the ride is most definitely harsher. Now some of the chassis flex that used to soak up some of the road irregularities is gone. I have a ROW M030 suspension. So one possible reason that Porsche didn't include this was that it reduces drive comfort. It's worth the tradeoff to me but perhaps it's not for everyone. I'm guessing that the lower brace has a similar effect. If not, forget everything I said. :)
  15. Stefan
    Ok, I discovered the answer to my own question. I didn't realize that there are preliminary cats built in to the headers on some cars. On those cars, replacing the headers with ones that don't have those cats could definitely affect emissions.
  16. Stefan
    I have a US 996 3.4L engine in my 1999 Boxster and there is a plate over that spot so there is no tube there. FYI, you can get better looking rubber plugs for just this purpose at your local auto parts store in the vacuum lines and accessories section.
  17. Stefan
    I have a 1999 Boxster with a 3.4L Carrera engine. When working on something else I acidentally broke one of the vacuum lines. I went to the local auto parts stores to get a replacement and they only had the soft lines. I used the broken pieces of the hard lines as connectors and connected the soft lines. I consider this only a temporary solution. The (old) hard lines are clearly brittle from age so I am thinking of replacing them. So I have some questions: (1) Is there a reason to use hard lines as opposed to soft lines? The soft ones are certainly much easier to deal with. They easily can be bent around corners and cut to any length. (2) What size are the hard lines? (3) Do auto parts stores carry the hard lines in the "Porsche" size? (4) Do you heat the hard lines up and bend them or do you have to get ones that are pre-bent?
  18. Stefan
    Chris, you painted the DRT rotors? The ones I got had coated hats and they still look great after many miles and many rainstorms.
  19. Stefan
    I think camber plates may be what you want. Sorry I can't be any more help.
  20. Stefan
    It sounds like the left-right cable just needs to be adjusted as the new pieces are not identical to the old.
  21. Stefan
    Did you get the car aligned after lowering it? After alignment was it within spec?
  22. Stefan
    According to that other thread linked above it is accessible through the engine bay, from the top. The thread is very descriptive with pictures and everything.
  23. Stefan
    I suspect the only difference is how you access the part since it is the same part, held in the same way. But I've never done it on a 996 so I can't say from personal experience.
  24. Stefan
    I got DRT rotors and I am happy with them. I have had them on for about 10k miles and the coating still leaves them nice and shiny (with no rust).
  25. Stefan
    I hate to rain on your parade but Porsche specifically says not to remove the cross braces unless the car is supported by all four jack points.
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