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kgoertz

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Everything posted by kgoertz

  1. Thanks Brad. I think you right in that a 5% difference in sizes is way too much. Adding a bit more width up front would be nice, but it isn't worth the risk to me. I'll also go with 235/40. That actually helps solve another minor annoyance I have surrounding the front bumper. My car is only H&R coilovers and below the stock height which means I occasionally scrape the front bumper on steep driveways. The coilovers are at their maximum height setting but adding slightly more sidewall on the front wouldn't be a bad thing. I'm probably going to order tires next week ? Kevin
  2. That's great timing. My current Hankook tires are completely worn and I need new tires before I bring my car out of hibernation. I was planning on buying the MPSS in the same rear size as you suggested above, but I wasn't sure about the front size yet. Your analysis definitely helps, and I'd also like to reduce oversteer on the car so if there is a chance that the 245/35r18 would fit I might try it. I'd have to double check that the tires would fit on a 8" wheel though. Has anyone run with these sizes yet?
  3. Sadly I've had the same issue for several years. My wind deflector actually doesn't pop out correctly by itself and is a little warped which isn't helping Looking at it though it isn't obvious if it is replaceable. So sadly I can't help either ?
  4. Actually Michelin's own testing showed better performance for the MPSS on dry tracks compared to the PS2 according to Motortrend. https://www.motortrend.com/news/testing-the-michelin-pilot-super-sport/ Also 'dry' score the on Tirerack's survey page shows a 9.6 for the 4s compared to a 9.3 for the PS2. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=MP I've logged more than 30K km on both tires including a handful of trackdays on each. I'd still take the MPSS any day over the PS2 even if I never drove in the wet. And the 4S is apparently better in every dimension. Just wish Michelin would support more sizes for 18 inch wheels ?
  5. The PS2 is now an old tire and uses the same technologies that it was developed with a long time ago (almost 20 years I think). It was superseded by the Pilot Super Sport (PSS) and now the Pilot Sport 4S (PS4S). There are lots of articles discussing the improvements that were made, but the quick summary was that the PSS was better than the PS2 in every dimension. The PS4S apparently improves on the PSS. I ran through 2 sets of PS2 tires before switching to the PSS. The PSS has noticeably better traction especially on wet roads. It rides quieter, lasts longer, and is cheaper. But sadly the new tires do not come in the proper sizes for the 996. I'd still rather run non-standard sizes than switch to another tire though.
  6. The problem is that the Michelin PS4S tires are not available in the proper sizes. And the 4S is a much better tire than the PS2 and is also much cheaper. The new 4S is arguably the best tire available for street use at the moment. I plan on running 235/40R18 on the front and 285/35R18 on the rear as the OP had suggested on my 02 Targa with 11" rear wheels. I'm pretty sure it will work, but I haven't actually tried it yet.
  7. Nice! That looks like the same spoiler that I have on my car. Mine is starting to sag though and I have been considering replacing it. Where did you find the spoiler? I assume it is a Porsche part but I have never really looked. Thanks Kevin
  8. Ah, maybe you're the one I was thinking about :) You got your pump from ECS tuning, right? Guilty. That was me :) Great memory! I had posted a detailed writeup on the differences in the water pumps on Rennlist. I apologize in advance if posting a Rennlist link is frowned upon. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/796545-new-water-pump-installation-pump-not-spinning-freely-997-pump-in-a-996-a.html
  9. That is very interesting. I had to return a 997 water pump that was incorrectly ordered for my 2002 996 since it clearly didn't work. It looked identical but the impeller was slightly (measurably) larger and wouldn't turn once I had it on the block. I wonder when they made the change to the block to fit the slightly-larger impeller. That's confusing.
  10. I have been running 200 cell cats on my 996.2 for about 3 years. No CELs and the car runs great. The ones I purchases were x-pipe cats where the exhaust from both cylinder banks are combined. The exhaust is slightly louder but I don't think the change was that significant. My car does run a little rough (ie almost to the point of stumbling) for the first 30 seconds or so when completely cold that may be related to the exhaust changes but I'm not sure and it is only a very minor annoyance.
  11. Those all all pretty straightforward jobs with the right tools. It is definitely worthwhile to buy a power bleeder for the brake bleeding, but once you have one it is pretty straightforward job. Plus it gives you a good opportunity to inspect the brakes and measure the rotor thickness. The coolant change is definitely the hardest. But if you buy or borrow a coolant vacuum refill tool (like the UView 550000 or the FJC 43610) and don't attempt to drain the coolant completely then it is pretty simple. I did mine while replacing my water pump. My recommendation would be to just get out the coolant that is easy without removing the hoses from under the car. And use Volkswagen coolant which is exactly the same thing at a much lower price. There is a very good writeup on this forum or rennlist on how to do the flush. It would probably take me about half an hour each for the oil change and transmission fluid change. And a bit more than an hour each for brake bleeding and coolant flush.
  12. I would (and did) remove the headlight washers first. It only takes a minute once the headlights are out. There is a plastic tube that extends down from the headlight washer that has a rubber seal that plugs into the washer fluid line. The headlight washers pop up with a little pressure. If you apply about 20 psi with a small compressor or bike pump (slowly) to the tube the washers will pop-up and you'll be able to easily remove them with a small screwdriver. They are held on by plastic tabs. If the tabs break you can always reconnect them with a little goop. I broke mine before I knew how to remove the washers properly...and the goop has held them on for a few years without any issue.
  13. ECS Tuning has a great price on a kit that includes Bosch both plugs and coils. I installed them myself about 2 years ago and haven't had any problems. My coils were in pretty rough shape and would misfire when wet. The new plugs and coils solved that.
  14. I'd bet on it being the coil packs. And even if they weren't the only problem, if they haven't been replaced yet they are probably due. I had a flashing check-engine light after heavy rain storm with misfire codes. Replaced the coils myself (which were cracked and in very rough shape) and the problem hasn't occurred in 2 years since. Replacing them yourself isn't that difficult. The biggest challenge is getting the mufflers out to make it easy to see the coils and plugs. Apparently it can be done without removing the exhaust but I used the excuse to do the Fister mod on mine. ECS Tuning sells a kit with 6 Bosch plugs and coils for just over $300. That's what I used and haven't had any problems since. And there was a noticeable power increase after replacing them :)
  15. Coil pack failures seem to be relatively common on the 996. If they are still original they are probably due for replacement and could easily be the cause. Mine failed last year with similar symptoms while driving in heavy rain. If the misfire occurs more frequently when the car is wet or damp it is a good indicator of cracked coil packs. ECS tuning sells a set of coil packs and spark plugs for less than $300 (if I remember right). Replacing them is fairly straightforward although getting easy access requires removing the mufflers which can be a bit of work especially if the exhaust bolts are heavily rusted.
  16. FWIW. My 2002 Targa includes code 601 in the option list (Litronic Headlights). I'm pretty sure it is possible to install Litronic headlights afterwards so the car might just have been upgraded later. But they aren't cheap.
  17. For the original question you may want to try Armor All Rim Protectant. It is a spray that you apply on dry rims and dramatically reduces the amount of dust that builds up. I was sceptical but so far I've been impressed with the product. It doesn't survive through a serious wash, but it only takes a few seconds each to apply. I've tried wheel wax and a few others in the past but I never continued to use them because the effort to apply was too high. I have also heard of people painting the inside of the rim with black plastic dip. It doesn't reduce the dust at all, but makes it less visible. I've been debating trying that myself.
  18. I'm pretty sure there was a noticeable difference immediately after I upgraded but it is hard to separate reality from wishful thinking. The engine definitely seems to rev faster especially at the higher RPMs.
  19. Fabspeed has some torque curves on their web site. The graphs show a slight drop in torque at low RPMs (3000 and less) and about a 10% increase from 3500rpm and up. http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-996-carrera-sport-cat-x-pipe/
  20. I replaced my rattling cat over 2 years ago with ones from ones from Maxspeed-motorsports. They sound better than stock and I haven't had any issues since I installed them. The owner (Nello) was seemed very knowledgeable and the service was excellent. http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/store/p77/Porsche_996_NHP_200_Cells_Catalytic_Converters_X-Pipe_Design.html There are quite a few vendors with 200 cell cats with the x-pipe design. Most claim a slight boost in power (ie ~20 hp). I believe the increase in noticeable although I'm not sure if it is just due to higher flow cats or the x-pipe design.
  21. Have you looked into the Gundo or Fister hack for the 996 mufflers? It is a very common mod for the exhaust with good results. Most muffler shops should be able to do it for under $200 (after the mufflers are removed from the car). Lots of discussions on the topic in these forums.
  22. I gave up looking for a good metric-only socket set (at least in Canada) and ended up buying a full set and then using socket rails to organize the metric sockets. It was cheaper to buy a full set and discard the standard sockets than it was to piece together what I wanted. That way you only bring the appropriate rail (ie 1/4" vs 3/8") under the car depending on the job and all of the sockets are with them. The bigger challenge is storing various extension sizes and a few universal joints since they usually come in handy. I personally like using 1/4" drive whenever possible due to the shorter ratchet and the fact that I just bought a 1/4" torque wrench for doing my water pump. The shorter wrench makes it much less likely to over-torque as long as it is enough to remove the bolts in the first place. For 1/4" I would probably include 11 and 13mm as well but I don't remember which I've actually used. For 1/2" you may want to include a 24mm since I believe that is the size of the idler pully bolt needed to remove the belt. Although if anyone has of a full list of the bolt sizes on the car it would be really useful.
  23. I did mine this winter. Not extremely difficult but it is a little time consuming. I just removed the center intake and the alternator but left the throttle body in place. The two main challenges are removing the alternator, and then accessing the 2 bolts on the oil fill tube since they are behind the tube. The alternator is pretty straightforward as long as you can push out the sleeve that pinches the alternator to the bracket. It involves a few hard hits with a hammer (preferably a dead-blow hammer). I couldn't move the sleeve but still managed to remove the alternator with a bit of wrestling. Lots of instructions online. The oil fill tube itself is a little easier with a 1/4" universal joint and some patience. Also make sure you have a replacement gasket for the oil fill tube. I believe I ordered that separately but I can't quite remember since it was part of a long laundry list. You need to remove the serpentine belt in order to remove the alternator so it is probably a good time to replace it as well.
  24. It is likely the "secondary air injection pump". It runs briefly at startup and the pump is known to whine when it is too dirty. The pump is near the left rear of the engine compartment right beside the coolant reservoir. The pump is quite expensive but a very easy DIY to replace. Search for SAI. Also many here (including myself) have had success by removing the pump, re-greasing the bearings, and blowing the dust out of the pump with an air compressor. There are instructions on this forum. I cleaned mine over a year ago and the buzzing sound has not returned yet.
  25. Just adding to this thread for reference. I recently tried installing the 997 water pump (99710601105) into my 996.2 Targa and the impeller is hitting the block and won't spin. The fit is identical but it looks like the 997 part has a slightly different impeller. I measured both water pumps side-by-side to find out why the 997 pump doesn't fit. The only significant difference that I could find is the size of the impeller. The diameter of the 996 impeller measured from the outside edge of the opposite fins was ~64.8mm. The diameter of the 997 impeller measured ~66.9mm. The height of the fins were the same within my ability to measure (within 1/10th of a mm). The casing actually had the same part numbers (996 106 101 and 0070905063) but with a different version (07 vs 09). The diameter of the hole for the impeller was slightly larger on the 997 but only by ~1mm. I think it could be possible to file down the 997 impeller to fit into the 996 but clearly the parts aren't interchangeable as shipped.
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