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wwest

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Everything posted by wwest

  1. The first 996 I owned was of canadian origin and therefore had DRLs. The difference was that the street/parking/tail lights operated along with the headlamp DRL bulbs. I thought this such a good idea that when I purchased my new '01 C4 I wanted the same setup so I wired the seat heater fuse power source over to the left and right street/parking/tail light circuits. I also replaced the W6W DRL bulbs with 3 watt Luxeon LEDS.
  2. We took factory delivery of our '01 C4 and put 2500 miles on it in europe. Picked it up at east coast POE, drove to Memphis, then on home to Seattle. Had a chance to drive it on the track at Daytona so trucked it there and then drove it back home to Seattle. LS400 would have been more comfortable but not nearly as much fun. Would do it all again in a NY minute..!!
  3. Are you really willing to give up forward night vision in favor of impressing oncoming drivers, drivers you will likely NEVER meet..?? 4300K is the closest "color" available that matches our sun's spectrum and human eyesight has had eons to adjust to taking the most advantage of that.
  4. Unless the oxygen sensors' internal heaters are in series.....
  5. I went with the H3 55AW, AW for all-weather, slight amber/yellow tint. And remember that your fog lights are useless with the low beams also on. And running with both on is detrimental to your OWN forward distance vision and is generally done only to IMPRESS oncoming drivers, drivers you'll likely NEVER meet nor care about their opinion.
  6. "I have reset the memory assigned to the key...." I though/think the key, each key, has a memory "slot" assignment independent of the doorsill numbered buttons.....
  7. No, I knew EXACTLY your point. Most cars use the high beam bulb at reduced brightness because the high beam reflector assembly is designed to case a LONG range beam. Your fog light reflector assembly, on the other hand, is designed to case a LOW and WIDE beam. Personally I would choose to drive more reasonably as to avoid the "gendarmes" and keep the safety of TRUE DRLs. And would you believe that those HID lamps probably have an infinite usefull life in comparison to the incandesents in the fog assembly.
  8. "less conspicuous..." Yes, that's the POINT..!! DRLs are to make you SAFER, MORE conspicuous to the oncoming traffic.........
  9. In my experience insurance companies look for ANY reason to deny coverage, even the most trivial. Given that the K&N filter is well known to cause MAF/IAT oil then dirt contamination problems and in the long term engine failure due to dirt entering the cylinders they would have good, SOUND, cause. And remember that, other than intake sound/noise, the ONLY advantage to the K&N filter is at WOT and high intake flow, at all other times the throttle valve itself is the major obstruction/restriction to intake airflow. And if you want colder air at the intake manifold move north. Expensive but FAR more productive.
  10. My '99 Canadian origin 996 didn't turn the low beams, HID, on with the DRL relay removed......
  11. My '01 996 C4 has a switch added into the back wall of the center glove box which allows me to open the electrical ciruit to the A/C compressor clutch. I do not allow the A/C compressor to run throughout the winter months. The primary source of moisture in teh cabin after driving for a period of time is the A/C itself. When the A/C is shut down after use there will ALWAYS be a thin film of moisture, condensate, remaining on the approximately 10,000 square inches of evaparator cooling vane surface area. So, where is that moisture to go as it evaporates off of those vanes once the A/C is shut down and those vane surface begin to rise in temperature? Convection airflow carries the airborne water vapor up to the COLD interior windshield surface, cold side window and rear window surfaces. My '01 Lexus RX300 has two c-best options which allow me to disable the A/C indefinitely and unlink it from automatic operation in defrost/defog/demist mode.
  12. As discussed above, the sensor is on the right side of the dash. It is a thermocouple with a small fan to blow over it. It could be the thermocouple or the fan (or anything which prevents cabin air from blowing over the thermocouple.) Unfortunately, a thermocouple is something that does not fail very often... so, if that's not the problem, then you have to consider the control unit or the thermocouple located in the front of the car (the one that reports the outside temperature on your dashboard). This brings me to the second point... the thermocouple located in the bumper is part of the climate control system, to the extent that it helps decide how much extra heat or cooling to add (based on the difference between the incoming fresh air and the desired temperature). So the service rep was kind of right - but not being clear. The end result is the climate control uses both sensors to maintain cabin temperature. Loren might be able to shed more light as to how to diagnose the problem further. Both, IAT & OAT are thermistors, resistors that change resistance with temperature...colder = higher resistance. An open OAT (bumper sensor) would indicate EXTREME COLD outside and the system might compensate by increasing the cabin air OUTFLOW temperature beyond your comfort level, but not likely very much above your setpoint, on the average. An open OAT sensor on the other hand would result in the cabin temperature rising higher and higher.
  13. The statement was... I don't mean snow and ice. With those exceptions, and often, mostly, even without them, summer tires will outperform ANY winter specialty tire. On ice or heavily packed snow my summer tires have more CSA for traction than your winter specialty tires. And be QUIETER and more COMFORTABLE riding to boot. Has anyone ever tested winter specialty tires against just a good plain old summer tire in any condition other than with a "loose" surface...?? Like the rarity of finding good powder snow for skiing how often do you "find" just the right conditions wherein your winter specialty tires are worth the cost? Can someone tell me WHY winter tires would use a rubber formulation to soften the tread any moreso than a summer tire is already?. Besides which, just what is the downside to the manufacturers using the same formulation, softer tread in COLD conditions, in a summer tire? Has anyone knowledge or indication that they don't...? My '01 AWD RX300, and the two Jeeps that preceeded it, runs on nice and quiet, comfortably riding, summer tires, Bridgestone Turanzas the year 'round. One set of chains on board year 'round, for the rear, and the second set added onboard during the winter months.
  14. "...no no to disconnect the battery..." Yes, YES, in SPADES. Never, NEVER, have the battery disconnected with the engine running. The battery is an integral part of the alternator/regulator voltage/current output regulating functionality. Disconnect the battery with the engine running and the alternator voltage output will likely go into "orbit", excessive level and possibly blow EVERY solid state device in the car. I don't know the physics of this but the regulator works using a PWM method. The following happens at the sub-millisecond level. The cycle starts by turning the alternator output FULL ON, full battery voltage applied to the rotor's magnetic circuit. Then as soon as the alternator output voltage reaches the "setpoint", ~13.6 volts, the regulator switches the rotor current full off. Now the regulator waits for the circuit voltage to decline to some nominal low level and then begins the cycle again. A poorly charged battery will represent a high resistance to the charging current so the alternator voltage will rise to the setpoint with microseconds of full rotor voltage being applied. Since it is poorly charged it cannot sustain a high voltage level once the rotor voltage is switch off so the PWM duty cycle will be short. Over the long term the battery will become fully charged, the battery internal resistance itself being used to regulate the charge RATE until the regulator high voltage limit is reached. That voltage regulator setpoint is to some extent a function of ambient temperature, the colder it is the higher the voltage will approach the upper limit.
  15. Not to rain on anyone's parade... Ah, hell, why not.... Insofar as overall magnetic, electro-magnetic design/structure is concerned a generator is just as efficient, or can be easily made just as efficient, as an alternator, and at the same speed. The sole difference is the method of rectifying the AC voltage. Yes, internally the generator, like the alternator produces AC voltage. Whereas the alternator uses solid state diodes for rectification the generator uses the brush/commutator method, mechanical method. The only other difference is that the METAL in the generator will typically retain some small level of magnetism in the "field" over time so a push-started car will be able to recharge a TOTALLY DEAD battery. Useless feature today.
  16. It sounds as if, truly, you have a load, battery drain, that is (intermittently) remaining on with the ignition completely off. Audio work maybe..??
  17. Check that the battery negative ground strap is tight on the nearby body stud and that the ground stud itself is TIGHT to the body.
  18. The dealer isn't stupid, replace the alternator first, then the battery, more revenue, LOTS MORE REVENUE...!!
  19. On the 996 you can simply bridge the seat heating circuit, SOURCE side, into the street/parking/tail light circuit and have canadian style DRLs. The european 5 watt halogen in the headlamps operates on the same circuit.
  20. If you mean are the ignition coils actually step-up "transformers" then the answer is yes. But externally the 12 volt battery voltage is "amplified" via a DC to DC inverter to ~300 volts and that is used as the coil primary "switched" voltage. 12 volts to ~300 volts to ~25,000 volts.
  21. Porsche uses a VC, Viscous Clutch, to couple the front driveline into the rear. Initial coupling coefficient is only about 5% and will increase to about 40% with an extended period of disparate wheel rotation at the rear vs the front, which CANNOT happen if Trac is active.
  22. Yeah, I second that...sounds like the battery going. No, it sounds a lot like poor battery connections due to the corrosive effects of battery vent gasses. Remove, clean and burnish the battery posts and cable connections, recharge the battery, and make sure the battery gas vent hose is properly connected and routed OUTSIDE.
  23. Most likely the high pressure bypass in the pump is plugged or the bypass itself has failed.
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